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Posted: 12/17/2008 12:39:48 PM EDT
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Have any of you guys come up with a creative way to be able to utilize a 2 point sling with the M1A? I'm thinking of having a sling swivel placed on the left hand side, above the trigger area, near the receiver, then putting a small piece of picatinny rail above the front sling swivel, but scooting it back a touch. This way I can run a Vicker's, padded, 2 point sling.
Here's what I'm thinking: First step: Attachment of sling swivel above trigger guard with shortened LOP (Photo: DocGKR) It ain't pretty, but it gives me the LOP that I want and that is more effective, IMHO. 
Second step: Front picatinny attachment point (I would want a smaller rail, though (photo is of LAW483's work) 
End result: 2 point sling carry (pics obtained from some member here) (of course my set-up the rear of the sling would attach to the sling swivel located above the trigger area, see first pic.) 
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You need to do a mock up and test this out before you spend money on altering your stock. I'm not saying it wont work but if your rear swivel is next to your receiver the buttstock is going to be VERY high when slung across your chest as shown in the picture.
As was stated above check out the Vickers with the adapter for your rifle. Another option is the Ching Sling. You could attach it to the front, next to the receiver and to the buttstock and have a nice carry sling as well as a shooting sling. |
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You could simply use a Vickers sling and the adaptors they sell for M14s.  True, but I'm going to be chopping off a bit of the buttstock in order to shorten the LOP and will lose the rear sling swivel in the process. Won't this prevent the use of the rear adapter?? |
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You could simply use a Vickers sling and the adaptors they sell for M14s. True, but I'm going to be chopping off a bit of the buttstock in order to shorten the LOP and will lose the rear sling swivel in the process. Won't this prevent the use of the rear adapter?? It won't stop the use of the Vickers adapter because it tightens around the stock by it's adjustment strap and than there's the double sides velcro at the bottom to wrap around the strap and loop to tight the strap down and provide extra support with the loop. You'll just be loosing the extra support of the loop, but the adapter won't fall off. It may swift more, but just tighten it down as much as you can. Screwing and glueing a swivel loop to the side isn't a bad option at all though either. |
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You could simply use a Vickers sling and the adaptors they sell for M14s. True, but I'm going to be chopping off a bit of the buttstock in order to shorten the LOP and will lose the rear sling swivel in the process. Won't this prevent the use of the rear adapter?? How much will cutting the stock down cost? A buddy of mine had his synthetic stock cut down and the gunsmith charged him $125, because synthetic stocks are supposedly a lot harder to cut into than wood stocks. I think you're on the right track. I have thought about having my stocks cut down (I won't) and getting Vickers slings (I might). |
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He got screwed on that job. I'm betting sawing a GI fiberglass stock isn't that hard. Doing a McMillan Kevlar stock would be harder, but GI? Pretty soon I'll put my money where my mouth is. I agree. I'm just gonna use a hacksaw or something. But, I think it does take a lot of work if you try to customs fit a buttpad and try to make it nice looking. ETA: I forgot how much work it actually takes to shorten the LOP and make it look nice. Plus, if it was LAW that did it it was worth the money. |
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He got screwed on that job. I'm betting sawing a GI fiberglass stock isn't that hard. Doing a McMillan Kevlar stock would be harder, but GI? Pretty soon I'll put my money where my mouth is. "Harder to cut down" is not refering to the hardness of the material, but to the difficulty of the job. Wood has material integrity; when you cut off a wood stock there is wood to screw into. When you cut off some synthetic stocks there is nothing to screw the recoil pad into. You have to build something to screw into. Some just add material and screw into it like a wood screw. Others bed metal inserts into the area. When you cut the back end off a GI stock there is rigid foam that will not hold a screw. When I did the recoil pad stocks I had to clean out the foam, bed metal inserts into the stock, grind the pad to fit. It is several hours work, and it wears out cutting tools. McMillan would be easier as the stock filler has more integrity to hold a screw. I used to charge $125 wich included a $40 pad and a new bottom screw, a new top srew, metal insert, and bedding material. I made them with and without a rear swivel. |
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Too bad you ain't doing stock mods, LAW. Your work was/is the best! Thanks! I appreciate the kind words. All of the lessons learned from the stock mods is going into production stocks. My first production new from the ground-up fiberglass stock should be out soon. It was deplayed a bit, but the external mold is already made. There are 3 members here that should be sporting one shortly after they are out. We are trying very hard to have them shipping by SHOT show. Take Care, Tony |
| Brownell's latest catalog #61 page84 has the rails you're looking for if you've the ability/patience to whittle on you're stock I think you'll be satisfied with results I mounted one of these rails on left side for a flashlight mount and it is great I reccomend J-B welding or epoxy on the inside of the stock the one issue I see with mounting sling attachment above triggeris if stock is wood I can't stress enough to through bolt it I've had left over nylonwraps from gear that looks like it would work Blackhawk has a section for this in catlaog hope this helps |
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You could also install a "flush cup" and use a QD swivel. +1 thats what I did and it worked great. The flush cups are by Uncle Mikes, (the included swivels are junk) and the sling is a LaRue stock is USGI synth. http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/trn_photobucket/sling1.jpg http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/trn_photobucket/sling2.jpg http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/trn_photobucket/sling3.jpg |
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I've been thinking of doing something similar to the flush cups. What did you use to secure them? Epoxy? And how much "meat" is there to the stock where you installed them? I.E. what is the likelihood that the stock is going to crack?
Also, are the Uncle Mike's cups rotation-limited (90 degrees), or can the swivels turn a complete circle, leading to sling twisting? I run Blue Force Gear two points on my AR's and love them. |
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I've been thinking of doing something similar to the flush cups. What did you use to secure them? Epoxy? And how much "meat" is there to the stock where you installed them? I.E. what is the likelihood that the stock is going to crack? Also, are the Uncle Mike's cups rotation-limited (90 degrees), or can the swivels turn a complete circle, leading to sling twisting? I run Blue Force Gear two points on my AR's and love them. I had to build up the inside front wall of the stock with Bondo. Used a 2 part epoxy to bond the pockets. Also I used a dremel cutting wheel to make cuts into the outside of the QD pocket perpendicular to the stock so the epoxy would fill into the cuts and get a much better bond. I doubt the stock will crack, if anything I was worried that the pockets would pull out of the stock but they seem very secure. |
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