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Posted: 11/14/2008 2:24:50 PM EDT
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I just received my correct grade today and decided to strip and clean it. I removed the gas plug and gas cylinder lock. The gas cylinder slid right off the barrel with no effort at all.
Upon reinstalling these parts, the cylinder lock will go to the 9 Oclock position before making contact with the face gas cylinder. I have to rotate the lock back to the 6 Oclock position to install the gas plug. Everything I read says that the cylinder lock should make contact with the cylinder at the 3 oclock position and the last 1/4 turn should be tight against the gas cylinder. Do I have a potential problem here? |
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IMHO.........yes/no.
But, there are ways to "fix" what you say is a "problem." Try here......... http://web.archive.org/web/20030705071825/http://www.jouster.com/lanestips/ Aloha, Mark |
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This is totally normal and is NOT a problem.
The only rifles where the gas cylinder lock tightens up before 6:00 O'clock are either luck or a rifle that's been Match conditioned. For the "luck" part, you can find a gun show supplier with a bin of locks and test fit until you find one that locks up early. In all standard M1's where the lock stops is totally a non-issue. Wherever it stops, just turn it back to 6:00 and insert the gas cylinder lock screw. The screw will pull the gas cylinder forward and against the gas cylinder lock. Gas cylinder lock timing is not an issue on a Service grade rifle. Only on a Match rifle in which everything else is also Match conditioned. In other words, unless you have a full-blown National Match conditioned rifle, this isn't of any benefit or detraction for you. Just turn the lock until it stops, turn it back and insert the screw. |
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Quoted:
I did not say I had a problem. I asked of this is a potential problem. My bad.......I should be more, "diplomatic." Rather, than just stating, "IMHO........yes/no." I should maybe have asked you to define, "potential problem." Because, to some folks, 9 o'clock would/could be viewed as, "You already have a problem." Whatever. Have a nice day. Aloha, Mark PS.........from the link I provided........... Gas Cylinder Locks for Garands.
From: R. M. "Gus" Fisher EMAIL: Date: 23 Mar 1999 Time: 08:05:18 Comments Ever wonder why it was common for people to use/demand the late style gas cylinder lock with the "hump" on the top for NM Garands? The answer is: All of them were hardened and they almost never broke. However, that's only part of it. There are two styles of the earlier lock without the hump. The first was soft (and broke a lot) and the second was the first hardened style. OK, how do you tell the difference? The first style has a chamfered (angled) edge around the forward (towards the muzzle) top edge. The second has a square corner in this area AND is marked with an "M". THESE ARE THE GOOD ONES and every bit as good as the later "hump" style lock. I replace the first style lock on ALL Garands that are going to be shot, no matter if they're service grade or NM, to ensure the lock will outlast the barrel. The early style locks belong on correctly dated original rifles or ones people are restoring. (I make no judgement calls on people who want to "restore" a rifle.) BTW a correctly fitted lock will hand screw between 6 and 8 O'Clock against the gas cylinder shoulder on the barrel for service grade rifles. On NM rifles, they should stop at around 4:30 to 5 O'clock and be torqued down. If your lock doesn't match these specifications, I suggest you find a new lock so the gas cylinder doesn't loosen up quickly. This would cause your front sight to be in a different position after each shot and BOY will that mess up your group! |
| Thanks for the info. There is no lateral movement in the cylinder but front to rear is very loose fitting. With the slightest push from my finger, I can remove the cylinder from the barrel splines. The gas hole in the barrel is lined up with the gas hole in the cylinder though. |
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Re: Loose Gas Cylinder-How to peen?
From: Mike Gingher EMail: Date: 06 Jul 1999 Time: 14:23:31 Comments Philip - One other problem a loose gas cylinder can cause is short stroking,or a failure to feed. Not enough gas pressure to drive the po rod all the way to the rear and the bolt does n't pick up the next round. There other problems that can also result from ar be compounded by a loose gas cylinder. Here is my way of peening, others might do it differently. 1) Break rifli into three main groups and field strip the barrel and receiver group. 2) Remove the gas cylinder and upper hand guard from barrel. 3)With the gas port up look at front end of barrel,there are keyways at 12 o'clock on the opposite side of the barrel from the gas port and also at 5and 7 o'clock. I peen the inside edege of the keyways (splines)at 5 and 7, the sides of the keyways nearest the gas port. I also peen heavyer ( don't know if this a real word, but you get my meaning) to the rear toward the receiver. I then turn the barrel over and peen both sides of the keyway at12 o'clock. 4) Replace the upper hand guard an the barrel then install the gas cylinder. Note- use a brass lead or plastic hammer to drive the gas cylinder on to the keyways. I drive the gascylinder on untill it clears 1/2 to2/3's of the gas cylinder lock threads, I then use a special tool to tighten the gas cylinder to its proper location. Note - Padded jaws on a medieum crecent wrench will work if used carefully. When I near the proper location for the gascylinder I back the lock off 1/4 turn and look into the front end of the cylinder, I want the gas port in the barrel to be as near to the center of the hole in theside of the gas cylinder as I can get it without taking the lock past past 6 o'clock.When I am close I bring the lock to 6 o'clock and stop. This method does not open keyways to the rear of the cylinder and helps keep the cylinder tight. 5) I then clamp the cylinder in padded vice jaws and install the gas plug using a special tool or a square shanked screwdriver specialy ground to fit the end of the gas plug.I use the square shanked screwdriver so that I can tighten the gas plug with a crecent wrench on the shank of the screwdriver. Once installed in this manner the gas cylinder seldom comes loose and does not need to be removed from the barrel. Cleaning can be done using a 50 cal.bore brush and patch holder attached to a cleaning rod section or a pistol rod. Note - I put a slight bend in the rod near end used as a handle for ease of use. Kind of long but hope it helps, if you have any questions email me at [email protected] Good shooting - Mike This was also from the link. Aloha, Mark PS......also be careful that the frt guard isn't binding up against the gas cyl. Wood wants to expand under some weather conditions. If it tries to expand while it's smack up against the gas cly........well, you may crack the wood. |
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rubline,
dfariswheel is correct.... What you have is a "non-problem" in a service issue weapon. No consideration was given to exact lock stop location. It was fitted exactly as you described yours to be. Best regards, Swampy Garands forever __________________ 2007 NRA Missouri State 600 yard Service Rifle Champion. Score 774-29X... with an M1 Garand owner Swampworks Inc. / JLK Bullets The difference between a Hot Dog and a Weenie is a very fine line. Never underestimate the power of human stupidity.... You say that you believe in man made global warming??? AHHhhh BWA-HA-HA-hahahahah...... Sorry, I was having a "moment". See the last line above. |
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