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Posted: 2/16/2007 9:38:25 PM EDT
| So there's Boyd's, Wennig, and who else? I'm looking to get wood for my M1 projects (1 definately needs a stock, as it doesn't have one at the momment, and 2 more could use new ones to replace ugly wood). I know Boyd's is the cheapest that I have seen so far, and Wennig is fairly expensive (they dont even list their prices, but from what i understand, they're pretty pricey). Does anyone else make USGI spec wood for the Garand? I know CMP offers a stock set, but it's just a Boyd's set with a dupage finish on it, and I'm also looking for an unmarked set of wood. |
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Numrich has very nice re finished USGI stocks. www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=2070zM1%20GARAND |
| If you want to play with furniture stripper and sandpaper, you can get one at Doug's Stock Pile |
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I came to know a guy over the internet that has made Garand stocks for me. He has made them from the cherry and walnut blanks I have sent him. You can buy some fancy claro walnut on ebay or he can supply wood. He will do the whole thing including finish or just do the the fitting and you do the finish. I like what he has done for me. E-mail me and I will send you his phone #. He is in Missouri. Chinook3 |
Get the unfinished set from DGR. $165, prefit and USGI profiled from a Wenigs set.. Get a can of BLO or Tung Oil.. You seen the pics of mine.. 
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Another vote for the Numrich stocks. For my first woodless Dane, I ordered an SAI Garand stock. Nothing fit, I mean nothing. The channel in the front handguard for the spacer was non-existant, the screw hole for the buttstock (the one that screws into the wood) was three times too big, and when I put the action into the stock, I could not get the trigger guard to lock up at all. I sent it back, got the Numrich set, treated it with linseed oil, put it together, and everything worked perfectly. It looked great before the linseed oil and it may not have been necessary, but all my wooden stocks get linseed oil. |
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I have several from Doug's Stock Pile that I have been working on. They are all military surplus Walnut stocks. None of them have a full set of clear cartouches. The one I have spent the most time on has a pair of clear serif circle-P proof stamps on the underside of the pistol grip area, and "indications" of other stamps on the right side of the stock (sorry, nothing clear). Most of the dents have steamed out, and it is showing nice grain. This stock is stripped, lightly sanded, unfinished, and has no hand guards or metal. I will be selling this stock, and since it is a learning piece for me I'll be letting it go fairly cheap. IM me if you are interested and would like images. I have been learning to refinish these stocks under the tutelage of a professional. He restored the stock on my 1st CMP racker, and it turned into a beautiful piece. I was originally going to scrap this original stock. See pics here. |
Very nice job. I am currently refinishing stocks and you did a great job here. I hope my transformations are as successful. I currently have posts with lots of Garannd pics on Amback and EBRSOPMODS in the Garand sections with sanding and refinishing pics. I was wondering if you did anything to highlight the cartouches? Something to darken or contrast what's left of the cartouches? I get my stocks from Dougs and gun shows. I have bought handguards from Wenig unfinished and prestained. ARDog |
NICE JOB! What finish did you use? |
I did not refinish that stock, though I wish I had! The gentleman who has been coaching me did it, and he's been doing them for many years. That stock was stripped with either Formby's or Min Wax furniture refinisher. They are very similar products. He recommends AGAINST the dishwasher method of de-greasing old military stocks. I found out the hard way that he is right. After stripping the stock, dents are steamed out. This is an art in itself, and the only real teacher is time & practice. Larger gouges can be filled unobtrusively. The stock shown had an ugly gouge on the left side that has been filled. You can see the original gouge in the "as received" pictures, and that area looks good after restoring. After dents are raised as well as possible, the stock is carefully sanded. There are areas you DO NOT want to touch with sandpaper, and these are avoided. For the rest of the stock, you don't want it to look like it has been sanded. A stain is then applied to bring out the grain. Again, this is quite an art. It can't be too much or too little, or it just looks wrong. Finally, several coats of Tung oil or BLO are applied. Some stock restorers use more modern finishes. While they do work better and have better wood finishing properties, I believe a military stock is best with its original type of finish. Hand guards need to be purchased new. Originals are generally not available. Boyd's and Wenig make good ones. Staining them to match the original stocks is not always easy. |
With all this, does linseed oil still get used on the wood? |
Saw one at the range a month ago. He had a barreled receiver, bought the parts everywhere, and dropped it in a CMP stock set. It looked, and locked up beautifully. Really solid. It was a bit chubby especially in the rear handguard and around the rear of the receiver. Without some sanding it was easy to tell (at about 10' and really looking) that it was an aftermarket stock. Still a nice option, though. |
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