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5/22/2016 5:10:33 PM EDT
So I'm in Maryland, and want to SBR a Sig MPX, but state law required the OAL of my SBR to be over 29inches. The MPX with wire stock is 5-6 inches too short.

I need this can to
-add 5-6 inches
-have a 13mmLH direct thread
-the baffles to be removable from the front
-suppress well

Is this too much to ask from a pinned suppressor?
I'm thinking stainless for durability. Should I be looking at any other materials?

Because the baffles have to exit from the front of the can am I forced into using a monocore, or would I be able to pull the baffles out with some sort of tool? Will a monocore be as effective as baffles?

Also what are my options for permanently attaching the direct thread portion to the tube?

Thanks for any help.
5/22/2016 5:57:15 PM EDT
[#1]
Texas Arms Co or Diversified Machine.  Either one can hook you up with everything you need.  DM's wait time is a lot longer at the moment though.  You can use standard baffles, use a knitting hook to pull them out the front.

You could pin and weld, full circumference weld, or high temp silver solder.  All are ATF approved methods, pinning and welding is the most common as it's the easiest and uses the least heat.
5/22/2016 5:57:32 PM EDT
[#2]
You should be able to pull to pull individual baffles out through the front with the front end cap removed. You might need a hook if they are in there tight.



As far as permanent attachment, I'm pretty sure that the only accepted method is to pin and weld.
5/22/2016 10:11:15 PM EDT
[#3]
Check this out.
5/23/2016 12:09:58 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
Texas Arms Co or Diversified Machine.  Either one can hook you up with everything you need.  DM's wait time is a lot longer at the moment though.  You can use standard baffles, use a knitting hook to pull them out the front.

You could pin and weld, full circumference weld, or high temp silver solder.  All are ATF approved methods, pinning and welding is the most common as it's the easiest and uses the least heat.
View Quote

Google seems to think that a "Texas Arms Company" in Mason TX is permanently closed. Is this the same place?
5/23/2016 1:58:18 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:
Check this out.
View Quote

Wow, that's awfully convenient! You guys think I could build the can for cheaper than $775 though?
5/23/2016 8:28:22 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
Google seems to think that a "Texas Arms Company" in Mason TX is permanently closed. Is this the same place?
View Quote


http://form1suppressor.boards.net/thread/605/texas-arms-price-list
5/23/2016 8:45:23 AM EDT
[#7]
I'm building a DeLisle carbine so I have a similar design consideration, wanting to avoid a two stamp gun.  I'm making a monocore that will come out the front, but whatever efficiency I lose vs baffle stack I'll more than make up for with volume.

For your design I think a baffle stack would be ideal and it would only require a simple tool like a fish jaw spreader to pull the stack out.  If you want to stay relatively small, I think you'll be happier with a commercially made product.

My 9mm form 1 can has machined 17-4 omega baffles that I expect to last practically forever, but the small bearing surface on that baffle type makes it harder to disassemble.  Not hard with access to both ends but I wouldn't want to pull them.

You'd likely be best served with a design like the link above, or with a cone type baffle that seals each baffle chamber from the tube.

We can't predict what you could build with no idea what equipment or experience you have.
5/23/2016 9:05:22 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:
Wow, that's awfully convenient! You guys think I could build the can for cheaper than $775 though?
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Quoted:
Wow, that's awfully convenient! You guys think I could build the can for cheaper than $775 though?

You could use premade cones, from say zmachineworx and stack them in a Ti tube, threaded by a local machineshop.
Weld the tube to a distal cap, which is pinned and welded over and threaded to the muzzle.

TitaniumJoe has very good pricing on Ti tubing
Ti bumps the price up, but the weight down. Your call
I'd say you're in under the $775 mark



Quoted:
We can't predict what you could build with no idea what equipment or experience you have.

Indeed
5/23/2016 11:08:40 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:

You could use premade cones, from say zmachineworx and stack them in a Ti tube, threaded by a local machineshop.
Weld the tube to a distal cap, which is pinned and welded over and threaded to the muzzle.

TitaniumJoe has very good pricing on Ti tubing
Ti bumps the price up, but the weight down. Your call
I'd say you're in under the $775 mark




Indeed
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Wow, that's awfully convenient! You guys think I could build the can for cheaper than $775 though?

You could use premade cones, from say zmachineworx and stack them in a Ti tube, threaded by a local machineshop.
Weld the tube to a distal cap, which is pinned and welded over and threaded to the muzzle.

TitaniumJoe has very good pricing on Ti tubing
Ti bumps the price up, but the weight down. Your call
I'd say you're in under the $775 mark



Quoted:
We can't predict what you could build with no idea what equipment or experience you have.

Indeed

A smaller lathe, a drill press and not a whole lot of experience, but decent mechanical aptitude, with a local machinist friend.
Is the general consensus that omega style baffles are the most effective right now?
5/23/2016 11:58:19 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
Is the general consensus that omega style baffles are the most effective right now?
View Quote

Personally, if I were to make a dedicated 9mm integral, it would be with K-Baffles. This is me, turning my own baffles.
If I was a Form-1er, with limited skills, I would go the route I described.

You should have an excellent can, either way.
Omegas can yield a good suppressor, but they harder to "tune" to an application.
Mfr's have no issue as they can experiment with clip size, porting and venting locations, etc.
You can not and so are stuck with what you make.

Cones are the easiest.
K's will suppress better, when configured properly.
5/23/2016 2:33:51 PM EDT
[#11]
^ what he said.
In my opinion:
Cones are the easiest to make and hardest to screw up.  They will perform well even if your design isn't perfect.

Ks and Omegas have a higher end performance-wise, but are more challenging to produce and less forgiving in design consideration.  They're also the easiest to "over make" that is, make too heavy with heavy wall thicknesses, which is more a consideration if you needed an inertial decoupler.

A monocore is probably least desireable with your equipment.  Drilling a long straight hole can be a challenge, and you really need a milling machine to get the best possible chamber out of it, although it could be done with a drill press.

If I were you, I'd look at K baffle examples and see if you can tease out how you would go about machining them on your lathe.  If you can't envision it, then go with cones.
5/23/2016 8:07:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Are you guys talking about omega baffles or the radial cone baffles used silencerco omega?
5/23/2016 10:12:07 PM EDT
[#13]
I'm talking about your first link.  Dual chamber cones.
5/24/2016 2:46:43 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
I'm talking about your first link.  Dual chamber cones.
View Quote

This.
5/24/2016 4:02:19 PM EDT
[#15]
Your running a good bit of risk trying to have a serviceable pinned can for pistol caliber,  the Baffles have to have holes larger than the bore of course so pushing them out is not possible.  Replying on pulling them out is questionable.  You might want to throw together a FP can, then have the sot that will do a screw in moncore from the end cap do a rebuild (its $200).  Shawn at 802traders LLC/ Sirearms
5/25/2016 11:31:56 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote History
Quoted:
Your running a good bit of risk trying to have a serviceable pinned can for pistol caliber,  the Baffles have to have holes larger than the bore of course so pushing them out is not possible.  Replying on pulling them out is questionable.  You might want to throw together a FP can, then have the sot that will do a screw in moncore from the end cap do a rebuild (its $200).  Shawn at 802traders LLC/ Sirearms
View Quote

This is really my main concern with a pin and welded can. The Curtis Tac can linked earlier has threaded baffles to keep them from getting stuck in.

An inner sleeve that's threaded, with the K baffles being threaded might not be a bad idea, like a faux monocore, but I don't know how the ATF would feel about that. The tube could have cut outs, and be welded together like an actual monocore, but that's still a pain to clean.
5/25/2016 12:51:57 PM EDT
[#17]
I was worried about the same thing, when I built ,my first integral (K-Baffles).
I fashioned a hook out of a wire, coat-hanger.
First, I straightened the hanger and, then, folded it in half.
I guess-timated the longest length needed and added a couple inches.
I cut the hanger, at this measurement, and bent the ends over, about 1/4".
It took a minute of trial and error, but it works everytime.
The wire has some springiness so it flays open once it emerges from the waist of the K.

I, also, coat my K's with anti-sieze, prior to reassembly.

A split tube or clam-shell could also be employed into your design.
5/25/2016 1:16:57 PM EDT
[#18]
A clamshell inner tube like some .22 cans resolves removal concerns.
5/25/2016 1:17:19 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote History
Quoted:

This is really my main concern with a pin and welded can. The Curtis Tac can linked earlier has threaded baffles to keep them from getting stuck in.

An inner sleeve that's threaded, with the K baffles being threaded might not be a bad idea, like a faux monocore, but I don't know how the ATF would feel about that. The tube could have cut outs, and be welded together like an actual monocore, but that's still a pain to clean.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your running a good bit of risk trying to have a serviceable pinned can for pistol caliber,  the Baffles have to have holes larger than the bore of course so pushing them out is not possible.  Replying on pulling them out is questionable.  You might want to throw together a FP can, then have the sot that will do a screw in moncore from the end cap do a rebuild (its $200).  Shawn at 802traders LLC/ Sirearms

This is really my main concern with a pin and welded can. The Curtis Tac can linked earlier has threaded baffles to keep them from getting stuck in.

An inner sleeve that's threaded, with the K baffles being threaded might not be a bad idea, like a faux monocore, but I don't know how the ATF would feel about that. The tube could have cut outs, and be welded together like an actual monocore, but that's still a pain to clean.

Could you make a barrel extension out of a tube large enough to fit your suppressor inside? Something like tac sol (I think?) does with their 12" 10/22 barrel that doesn't require a stamp.
5/26/2016 5:58:14 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote History
Quoted:

Could you make a barrel extension out of a tube large enough to fit your suppressor inside? Something like tac sol (I think?) does with their 12" 10/22 barrel that doesn't require a stamp.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your running a good bit of risk trying to have a serviceable pinned can for pistol caliber,  the Baffles have to have holes larger than the bore of course so pushing them out is not possible.  Replying on pulling them out is questionable.  You might want to throw together a FP can, then have the sot that will do a screw in moncore from the end cap do a rebuild (its $200).  Shawn at 802traders LLC/ Sirearms

This is really my main concern with a pin and welded can. The Curtis Tac can linked earlier has threaded baffles to keep them from getting stuck in.

An inner sleeve that's threaded, with the K baffles being threaded might not be a bad idea, like a faux monocore, but I don't know how the ATF would feel about that. The tube could have cut outs, and be welded together like an actual monocore, but that's still a pain to clean.

Could you make a barrel extension out of a tube large enough to fit your suppressor inside? Something like tac sol (I think?) does with their 12" 10/22 barrel that doesn't require a stamp.

That wouldn't be a bad idea...
5/26/2016 8:51:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote History
Quoted:

That wouldn't be a bad idea...
View Quote View All Quotes
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your running a good bit of risk trying to have a serviceable pinned can for pistol caliber,  the Baffles have to have holes larger than the bore of course so pushing them out is not possible.  Replying on pulling them out is questionable.  You might want to throw together a FP can, then have the sot that will do a screw in moncore from the end cap do a rebuild (its $200).  Shawn at 802traders LLC/ Sirearms

This is really my main concern with a pin and welded can. The Curtis Tac can linked earlier has threaded baffles to keep them from getting stuck in.

An inner sleeve that's threaded, with the K baffles being threaded might not be a bad idea, like a faux monocore, but I don't know how the ATF would feel about that. The tube could have cut outs, and be welded together like an actual monocore, but that's still a pain to clean.

Could you make a barrel extension out of a tube large enough to fit your suppressor inside? Something like tac sol (I think?) does with their 12" 10/22 barrel that doesn't require a stamp.

That wouldn't be a bad idea...

This company does something like that -
http://midstatefirearms.com/BMS-300Blk-Upper-105-welded-Suppressor-Shroud-Legal-16-bms30.htm
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