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Posted: 5/9/2016 9:35:14 PM EDT
OK I have a form 1 SDTac 6" titanium can and I desperately want it to work well with my SBR
The gun groups fine without the can, when I put the can on it becomes impossible to zero, can't get a group on paper at 25m It is an SD flash suppressor, I have also tried the SD muzzle break. The can does not dramatically alter the accuracy of my 14.5" rifle What are my options? What is my next step? |
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Can we see what the inside of the can looks like. There have been a few cases recently of SD tubes being out of alignment. Did you at least look down the barrel to check alignment? Those 2 things would be a good place to start. The can is a pretty standard freezer plug arrangement. If I look down the barrel it certainly looks like the barrel is aligned with the can (checked that before I ever shot it) I am not getting any baffel strikes and it shoots plenty accurate on my 14.5 barrel The only thing I can think of is the egocentricity of the barrel threads |
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What are my options? What is my next step? There have been more than a few people with the same issue but there have been multiple root problems. I'd start by ordering a bore rod from CNC Warrior. Make sure your bore is .275" or over and consistent (its difficult to get the plugs formed perfect without a jig). There have been a some cases of the tube treading being off. Some more cases of the end cap center mark being off (which would lead to you final drilling out the end cap). The QD brake/adapter system may be off a little by default, another member had sent several to a machinist and they measured off by .060" at 10" (although it shouldn't be enough to cause a shift off paper). The other issue is they brake threading is not recessed, so the brake may not seat on the shoulder of some barrels (you could use a washer or shims). |
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The barrel is a 10.5" 1in7, I have tried various ammo, but all 55g
As I have said the can gets decent accuracy on another gun using the same muzzle set up etc. I think the issue is in the lockup of the muzzle brake on the barrel. I'm gonna try some barrel shims vs a crush washer and see where that gets me, then go to someone who know more about this than me. |
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The barrel is a 10.5" 1in7, I have tried various ammo, but all 55g As I have said the can gets decent accuracy on another gun using the same muzzle set up etc. I think the issue is in the lockup of the muzzle brake on the barrel. I'm gonna try some barrel shims vs a crush washer and see where that gets me, then go to someone who know more about this than me. That is likely your issue. |
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That is likely your issue. Quoted:
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The barrel is a 10.5" 1in7, I have tried various ammo, but all 55g As I have said the can gets decent accuracy on another gun using the same muzzle set up etc. I think the issue is in the lockup of the muzzle brake on the barrel. I'm gonna try some barrel shims vs a crush washer and see where that gets me, then go to someone who know more about this than me. That is likely your issue. How so? What should I do? My working barrel is indexed, pinned and welded by a machinist. |
| Crush washers on a single point alignment system tend to cause alignment issues. You CAN get lucky and not have a problem, but that is the exception, not the norm. Shims only for suppressor mounts. I saw a pic a while ago of a guys can that he lent to a friend or cousin (on a trust) and it was returned to him with 2 exit holes because the person he lent it to mounted it using a crush washer. That's an extreme example, but it makes the point. |
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Crush washers on a single point alignment system tend to cause alignment issues. You CAN get lucky and not have a problem, but that is the exception, not the norm. Shims only for suppressor mounts. I saw a pic a while ago of a guys can that he lent to a friend or cousin (on a trust) and it was returned to him with 2 exit holes because the person he lent it to mounted it using a crush washer. That's an extreme example, but it makes the point. Luckily this hasn't been near that bad |
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