I'm putting together a 'Beginner's Guide to Building Suppressors' and I'm interested to hear what you guys would like to see. This guide will be geared towards non-machinists.

What would you liked to have known when you were building your first can?

What would you have done differently?

What advice would you all give someone who wants to build their own?

Essential tools?

Any ideas welcome. Thanks.

I wouldn't have built an 8" can, its to long and heavy for what I wanted . By no means is it heavy (18 Oz) but if it was closer to 13 Oz and a couple inches shorter I think I'd be a bit happier with it, think something like a TrekT .

also this may be your first F1 can but it probably wont be your last.

so that leads to buying tubes and end caps gets expensive it you have access and ability to make your own its well worth it.

in turn you will have to learn to machine the bits you need so you will need tooling and machinery which is expensive

stamp collecting , its a vicious habit

I want to build a 9mm can that I can also use for 300 blackout. If you showed plans for something like that I would be all about it.

Edit: I'll just make my own thread with my questions

I know most of the info can be found on the Internet, but your making a all in one guide. Here are my suggestions. You could also include AR15.com links in the write up to help consolidate the info.

Solvent trap suppliers. (Links).
$100 and $250 threads. (Links).
Show off builds. (Links).
How To write ups (links).
List of basic tools.
Bore ID based of caliber.
Baffle designs for rim and center fire rifle, baffle design for pistol.
Opinion of tube length per caliber and barrel length.
Baffle and tubing material for supers vs subs.
End cap designs for different wrenches.
Available boosters for pistol builds.
Explaining the difference between super vs sub ammo.
Pro/con of QD vs direct thread attachment.
Explain suppressor mirage.
Painting or anodizing the suppressor. (Links).
List of places that engrave, either tube sent out, local trophy shops, or hand stamping.
Explain that what is most important to the person doing the build, weight savings, max noise reductions, or length. Then the pro/con of each.
Link to sticky of how to efile on atfonline.com
Blast chamber length and baffle stack spacing info.

Good luck, Rich

Perfect. That's a good amount of what I have for categories. I can't decide to include efile since it will be shelved in a few months.

Probably going to do three parts.

Ok. I've started putting together Part 1. I'd like to get some of you more experienced guys to donate pictures of your builds in process. Pressing baffles, clipping cones, spacing measurements and even sketches and diagrams. I'll credit you however you like.

Speak up. If you were brand new to building suppressors, what would you like to see? If someone were to come looking for help, what kind of information would you point them to? What mistakes have you made.

Thanks.

As a guy who is brand new to building suppressors I'll throw in my 2 cents:

I have a couple of commercial rifle and rimfire cans so it helps that I have those to look at/measure and understand how they work (at least a little bit).  But I've never held a pistol can.

I'm trying to figure out how to build a pistol can.  Do I need a LID? How do I account for the dimensions of that compared to the blast chamber compared to the baffles?  How do spacers fit in - it looks like I can order a length of spacer material. Do I then just cut it with a hacksaw?

I'm sure I will find the answers I seek as I keep reading the new forum...but I haven't found them yet.  

To be clear - I'm not trying to hijack this thread, just help.

Yes, you will need a booster of some sort. Most people opt for a Gemtech or Liberty option. The blast chamber distance isn't too big of a deal; just use your piston assembly and tube to measure out the distance (~1.5") to your first baffle.

Spacers can be cut with a hacksaw and evened out with a belt sander or grinder. SDTA did a video of cutting spacer using a dremel cutoff wheel and a drill press. It's in the $250+ thread or googling SDTA spacer cut may get you there.

In all honesty, you probably want pure baffles in your pistol can, depending on size, length and baffle design.

No worries on the hijack. Helps me put stuff together.

Sorry, I missed this. I don't mind questions in this thread.

I'm going to include some design examples.

Would like to see the following compiled in a series of posts without having to thumb through 175 pages of high-fives, hijacking questions, snarky comments, and unrelated content.

1.  Sizes, Part #s, material, and retailers/sources of known compatible VSRs, FPs, and spacer tubes for different tubes?
2.  Known cross-compatibility of parts from different retailers? Ex: Apogee endcaps working with SDTA tubes. Liberty boosters work with DM tubes and Preppers endcaps.
3.  Drill sizes for common calibers.
4.  Common trouble-shooting tips. ex: Curing POI shift. Reducing FRP.
5.  Which retailer has which tubes/endcaps in which materials.

that's all I have for now; but would help out any beginner working on their first or second non-machined can.

Thank you. I'll do my best to include as much as I can.

Maybe want to cover different finishes available. Ceracote c, VHT header paint, grill paint. Maybe some prep info too. Also might want to put something in there about clipping cones. Different ways to do it and different style clips maybe.

Yes. Thank you. I have those in the outline.

How about suggestions for first time out with freshly built suppressor. I just finished mine and am ready to shoot.

.300 BO 8" barrel, 8" SDTA Ti d-cell stuffed full of formed freeze plug baffles.

Do I start with my potentially sub-sonic handloads or my proven supersonic loads?

Is a carrying a copy of my approved eForm 1 sufficient for proof of legal status?

Pulling the trigger at arms length far enough away in case of catastrophic failure?

I like it. Thanks.

As I am currently struggling through this myself, would like to see thread pitch/specs for adapters (the gemtech multimount) and tubes as well as minimum wall thickness info

To me, there are basically three different Form 1 suppressor categories: Rimfire, Centerfire Pistol, and Centerfire Rifle.  The materials you can safely and effectively use for each type of can have some overlap, but each type has its own requirements and limitations (pressure versus weight versus volume) that mean often very different parts choices.

Add to that set of categories the fact that most pistol can makers want their recoil-operated pistols to function with the can, which means using a LID - and building the can to work with an LID.  Then there's the rifle can question: what sort of connection is "best?"  Which QD muzzle device is "best" for specific situations is a very detailed and personal choice.

The "Beginner's Guide" should address the basics of what a rimfire can needs, how centerfire pistol cans are different, and then how very different centerfire rifle cans are.  Touching on LIDs and muzzle devices would be good, but you could write volumes on each of those subjects...

Completely agree.

I'm going to try to tailor the guide to the person who owns a few suppressors, wants to build their own, but has no idea where to start.

Good plan.  

There are plenty of people here who are both totally new to "making" anything, and without ANY experience with suppressors at all.  I got a demo of a very nice can on a .22 pistol once; it really was "hearing safe" with subsonic rounds and wet.  BUT...  (That's a big but, too.). But the NFA dealer doing the demo explained the hows and whys of all of it to me before the demo, so I had a clue.  I've seen demos of suppressed Greaseguns (in .45) and suppressed MP5s (in 9mm) and the differences in how they sounded were amazing; subsonic rounds make a huge difference in how effective a suppressor can be, and that's an important piece of the puzzle too.

Which kind of means that you'd be writing a 15 volume opus if you didn't limit your audience the way you have.

I used a 3/8" hole for my 30 cal can(300blk, .308) I also use it on my 223 5.56 with good results

And the 223 5.56 can would be a 1/4" hole

Part 1 is almost done. Am I leaving anything out? Does the order of any topics need to be changed?

Part 1:

Introduction
Maker vs Manufacturer
Disclaimers
Legal Requirements
Basics
Materials
Basic Tools
Homework

Part 2:

Types/Designs
Calibers
ATF Form 5320.1 (Form 1)
Paper vs EFile
Resources
Part Suppliers
While You Wait
Homework

Part 3:

Approval
Building/Machining
Working With Metal
Bore Diameter and Concentricity
Baffle Clipping
Mounting/Testing
Coating/Painting
Final Thoughts

Here ya go......stolen from elsewhere on the net

VSR's:

NAPA
SEP VSR7018R - - Chrome Moly - - 1.372" - - 0.401" - - $6.00 ea. - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Valve-Spring-Retainer/_/R-SEPVSR7018R_0204181163#

Crane Cams
99669 - - Titanium - - 1.371" - - 0.347" - - $22.00 ea. - - - - - - ( as measured by millsusaf )
99936 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.375" - - $9.00 (for2) - - - - - -
99944 - - Steel - - - - -1.373" - - 0.392" - - $9.00 (for2) - - - - - - ( as measured by gunut )
99943 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.39" - - $9.00 (for2) - - - - - -
99948 - - Steel - - - - -1.375" - - 0.401" - $9.00 (for2) - - - - - -
158660 - Titanium - - 0.995 - - -0.28" - - $320.00 (for 16) - - - - - -
99678 - - Titanium - - 1.500"- - 0.350" - - $47.00 (for 2) - - - - hole most ideal - -
99681 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.345" - - $47.00 (for 2) - - - - hole, most ideal, unclear how this part is different than above one - -
99675 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.345" - - $47.00 (for 2) - - - - hole, larger step, less ideal - -
99679 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.375" - - $47.00 (for 2) - - - - hole, most ideal - -
99676 - - Titanium - - 1.500" - - 0.375" - - $47.00 (for 2) - - - - hole larger step, less ideal - -
99956 - - Steel - - - - -1.500" - - 0.39_? - - $9.40 (for 2) - - - -possibly same 0.39" hole as 99944 - catalog says 11/32" Valve Stem Diameter

Comp Cams
783 - - Steel - - -1.030" - - 0.430" - - $4.97 - - ea. - - - - (I think 783 is the best). - -
774 - - Steel - - -1.030" - - 0.430" - - $4.97 - - ea. - - - - - -
787 - - Steel - - -1.030" - - 0.430" - - $4.97 - - ea. - - - - - -
736 - - Titanium 1.500" - - /_ ? _\ - - $19.97 - ea. - - - -triple spring with 635" inner spring diamiter - may mean small hole

Edelbrock
9720 - - steel - - 1.375" - - 0.43" - - $57.97 - - (for 16) - - - - - -

PAC Racing
PAC-R524 - - Titanium - - 1.380" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - 500-Series-Ti-17-Titanium - -
PAC-R525 - - Titanium - - 1.380" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - 500-Series-Ti-17-Titanium - -
PAC-R522 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.380" - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - These should have hole suitable for 30cal. They are pricy but they are also near perfect, also they Ti-17 grade. - -
PAC-R523 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - " - -
PAC-R527 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - 0.345" - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - " - -
PAC-R401 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - /_ ? _\ - - $13.93 - - ea. - - - - 400-Series-PAC-TUFF-64-Titanium - 6AL4V Titanium alloy - -
PAC-R402 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - /_ ? _\ - - $13.93 - - ea. - - - - has most potential I think - -
PAC-R404 - - Titanium - - 1.480" - - /_ ? _\ - - $13.93 - - ea. - - - - - -
PAC-R503 - - Titanium - - 1.49 - - /_ ? _\ - - $22.22 - - ea. - - - - less ideal than the posi stop ones - -

Del West (custom shop)
M300 - - Steel - - 1.37 - - 0.32" - - - - - - - - Use the .31 for 5.56 and .36 for 308. Something like .27-.28 is ideal for 5.56 however in most cases 308 cans (that have .37-.38" holes) perform similar so probably not a big deal. - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Hardened Tool Steel - -
- - - - - - 1.35 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - 1.350 M300 Hardened Tool Steel .32" ID Fits perfect in Apogee/SDTA tube - -
- - - - - - 1.35 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - 1.350 M300 Hardened Tool Steel .36" ID " - -
- - - - - - 1.375 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - 1.375 M300 Hardened Tool Steel .32" ID Fits perfect in Chris's Custom SS tube - -
- - - - - - 1.375 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - 1.375 M300 Hardened Tool Steel .36" ID " - -

Procomp Motorsports

PC4265 ---------ChromeMoly Steel------- 1.50" OD------- .395 ID Fits perfect inside 1.50" ID custom DM tube. ----------$25 for 16pcs


CV Products
CV526 - - Titanium - - 1.350' - - .470" - - $15.43 - - ea. - - - - - -

Xceldyne
XRE565 - - - - 1.495 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - have a inner step at .635" so maybe the ID is on the smaller side? - -
XRE656-10 - - - - 1.495 - - /_ ? _\ - - - - - - - - - -

Manley
23636-16 - - Steel - - /_ ? _\ - - /_ ? _\ - - $3.97 - - ea. - - - - - -
23553 - - Titanium - - - 1.431" - - 0.478" - - $14.97 - - ea. - - 0.55oz.-Ordered and measured. Not good fit for any common tube sizes. Specs = 10 Degree, 1.660 in. Outside Spring Diameter Spring, .620 in. Inside Spring Diameter

Expansion Plugs :

Sealed Power
SEP 3813016 - - Steel - - 1.000"-1.03" - - $0.69 - - - - - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-000-25-400-mm/_/R-SEP3813016_0204500715
SEP 3813179 - - Steel - - 1.350" - - - - - - $0.69 - - - - - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-350-34-300-mm/_/R-SEP3813179_0436846090
SEP 3813080 - - Steel - - 1.375"-1.39"- - $0.99 - - - - - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-375-34-925-mm/_/R-SEP3813080_0204520153
SEP 3811102 - - Steel - - 1.484" - - - - - - $0.69 - - - - - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-484-37-693-mm/_/R-SEP3811102_0436829195
SEP 3812184 - - Steel - - 1.496" - - - - - - $0.99 - - - - - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-496-38-000-mm/_/R-SEP3812184_0204498846
SEP 3815133 - - SS - - - -1.5"-1.5135" - - 0.3565" tall- - $2.99 - ea. - - www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Expansion-Plug-1-500-38-100-mm/_/R-SEP3815133_0204543395

Ford
E3TZ-6026-E - - SS - - 1.390" - - .322" tall - - .55oz. - - www.nospartswarehouse.com/Item-27984/E3TZ6026E.html

Dorman
555-104 - - Steel - - Front of Rim 1.3795" After forming 1.3915" - - Rear of Rim 1.3845" After forming 1.3875"
555-027 - - Steel - - Front of Rim 1.5005" After forming - ? - - -" - - Rear of Rim 1.5140" After forming - ? - - - "


Big funnel HQ93 - - - - 1.53 at outer rim - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1.40 at outer body (so this will only fit the custom Ti tube) - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .34 center hole - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Small funnels - - - - 1.45 at outer rim - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1.29 at outer body (so can fit the 1.375 or 1.350 D bodies - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .25-.30 center hole among the different ones - -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
SDTA Steel spacer - - - - 1.33 OD - - *it fits loosely in the D tubes
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 1.20 ID - -

Thanks. I'll try to convert that VSR list to a spreadsheet

Anyone willing to donate build pics? I'll credit you however you like.  Email me at [email protected] or post them her in the thread with the details.

Thanks.

Sunday bump.

very ready for the guide. I want to send in 3 forms, .22, 9mm, .30cal.

Some things that would have saved me time, money and gotten me results I would have liked more -

Buy twice as many plugs as you think you'll need if you're using plugs.
Most auto parts places can order as many plugs as you want.  Don't get bent over the table buying from ebay or private sellers.
Stuff as many plugs in the tube as can fit, don't worry about spacers unless you're trying to shave that last ounce off the weight at the expense of db's.
Don't have the idea you're going to get the same suppression that modern commercial cans will.  Regardless of how great you think it sounds, you're going to be probably 10db louder than the same size commercial can.   Hence you have to go bigger to get the same results.
In the end after trying a lot of methods to press I just bought a jig off ebay and when I was done making cans I sold it for most of what I paid for it.  End result was a lot fewer wasted plugs and cheaper than other options I tried using lathe centers, flaring tips, paint tips etc and so on.  
Oversize your holes unless you have precision equipment.  Even then be generous.  
Go with a larger diameter than commercial.  1.6, 1.75, 2"   You'll get more volume, lower pressures, better reduction and you can shorten them to save weight and length to get the same reduction or keep them long for better reduction.
Go shorter rather than longer.
Go OTB if your application can allow it.  
Over the course of my builds my cans kept getting shorter and fatter to save weight and length while keeping volume up.
Don't spend a bunch of money on a hydraulic press, you can DIY a very simple frame out of 2x4's and use a cheap bottle car jack to press plugs.  The below cost me about 15 minutes build time and $0 using the jack out of the DW's car and wood out of my scrap piles and a chunk of 1/4" scrap mild steel I had.   And it's over built, it pressed probably 300+ plugs for me without flinching.
press

Love to see videos of guys process to convert 60 degree Ti shot glasses and the like into baffles with or without clipping.  Especially for those who only have a drill press.

http://form1suppressor.boards.net/thread/611/shawnsons-baffle-clipping-method

Thanks!

Just so everyone knows what to expect:

My intention with this guide is to take someone with one or two commercial silencers and walk them through the process of building a Form 1 can. For those of you who come here and read the threads and do your own research, you may think the guide is boring. Especially in Part 1 where I go over nomenclature, legal, tools, and materials - true basics.

Also, I'm not an expert by any means - for beginners by a beginner.

Thanks for the help.

I'm just starting down this rabbit hole and the big question in my mind is how to know what my can will be rated for? I'm starting with a .30 cal but it will likely only be used for 5.56, but how do I know if it's going to be stout enough for .308 or more? What materials are and aren't to be used for tubes and end caps? I know the answers are in this forum, it would be nice if they make your guide.

i am interested

**Edited - I ended up making another thread with my guide. I made one quite some time ago and I am finally releasing it on this forum. Mine covers a build guide. I do look forward to your guide as it will cover a good bit of information that is not in my guide. If anyone would like to check out my guide the link to the AR15.com post is below. I will continue checking out your thread and look forward to all the information you will cover!


Form 1 Suppressor Build Guide - 30 cal 5.56/.308

Awesome. Looking forward to reading this.  The more good info the better.

Part 1 is waiting to be published. Part 2 is in process. Sorry for the delay everyone.

Part 1 will be published tomorrow afternoon. It will be pretty basic for most of the folks here.

http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/07/09/build-silencer-part-1/

I'm getting an error when I click on your link.

OP got the date in his link wrong.  This link works.

Thanks. We had to repost it on Saturday dot some errors. Didn't realize the old link was dead.

Hope this is of some help.
Gemtech, Thompson and Liberty appear to use compatible thread spec.

Booster Housing Dimensions
1.180" - 24 TPI
Pitch Dia. Tol.: 1.1529" to 1.1504"
Major Dia. Tol.: 1.1795" to 1.1750"
Minimum Thread Depth (threaded part of booster inside tube): .400"
Minimum Pocket Depth (full part of booster inside tube): .900"