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Posted: 3/4/2023 2:14:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cutler25]
Anyone know someone who will cut and thread a 10.5" barrel down to a 10.2" barrel? I know it's not ideal or easy to do as you have to re-use the existing threads. Adco explicitly says they won't on their website and I asked D. Wilson and a no go there as well. I need 10.2" for my Noveske Johnny Rifle clone and this will work until I hopefully find the original correct barrel.
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Land of the once free & the home of the narrative.
AL, USA
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It's a pain because it's easy to ruin the thread adding a new shoulder and picking up the threads using single point. I can help you out if you don't find anyone.
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"Whoever makes himself great will be made humble. Whoever makes himself humble will be made great." -Jesus
"if it can be destroyed by the truth, it deserves to be destroyed by the truth" - Linus from Charlie Brown |
For 1/3” of an inch?!? Sounds like a bunch of “why, though?” I’d either just run it 10.5” or buy a 10.3” if it bugs you that much.
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That's likely to end in failure and the smith would get blamed for it.
If it is important to you, it is better to just buy a longer barrel and cut it back. |
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Success depends on whether the current threads have a relief at the shoulder and it's width, or if the threads are cut to shoulder without a relief.
Either case would be a huge pain, and threading to the shoulder in either case. No one will notice 0.3 inches of extra barrel on your clone, or recognize that the gun is a clone. |
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Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
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Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
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Originally Posted By OG1: It's a pain because it's easy to ruin the thread adding a new shoulder and picking up the threads using single point. I can help you out if you don't find anyone. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By GlockPride: For 1/3" of an inch?!? Sounds like a bunch of "why, though?" I'd either just run it 10.5" or buy a 10.3" if it bugs you that much. View Quote |
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Land of the once free & the home of the narrative.
AL, USA
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Originally Posted By cutler25: Thanks. I figured it would be a spendy endeavor if I decide to do it due to added time and intricacies. I'll shoot you a message if can't find anyone and decide to go through with it. View Quote |
"Whoever makes himself great will be made humble. Whoever makes himself humble will be made great." -Jesus
"if it can be destroyed by the truth, it deserves to be destroyed by the truth" - Linus from Charlie Brown |
Originally Posted By AeroE: Success depends on whether the current threads have a relief at the shoulder and it's width, or if the threads are cut to shoulder without a relief. Either case would be a huge pain, and threading to the shoulder in either case. No one will notice 0.3 inches of extra barrel on your clone, or recognize that the gun is a clone. View Quote But they would! Plus, I'll always know. But leaning towards cutting longer one down and living without the barrel markings. |
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I know this thread is weeks old, but AAC makes a "deep socket" 51t. It would set back the mount the correct distance without modifying the barrel. Or if you already have the mount it could be modified by any machinist.
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Originally Posted By aircontech: I know this thread is weeks old, but AAC makes a "deep socket" 51t. It would set back the mount the correct distance without modifying the barrel. Or if you already have the mount it could be modified by any machinist. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By cutler25: That's an option I've considered, just don't want to lose the barrel markings. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cutler25: Originally Posted By FedDC: That's likely to end in failure and the smith would get blamed for it. If it is important to you, it is better to just buy a longer barrel and cut it back. If this is such a difficult endeavor, why not find someone to cut the longer barrel back as normal then have them (or someone else) replicate the barrel markings in the correct location? Whether the “correct” barrel markings are stamped, engraved, laser’d, etc, there’s got to be at least a handful of places that could do a small job like that. ETA: Unless the markings on the longer barrel extended through the location they’d need to cut to get you to 10.2”. I guess they could be filled and ground smooth, but still more difficult than if that wasn’t the case. |
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Originally Posted By WUPHF: If this is such a difficult endeavor, why not find someone to cut the longer barrel back as normal then have them (or someone else) replicate the barrel markings in the correct location? Whether the "correct" barrel markings are stamped, engraved, laser'd, etc, there's got to be at least a handful of places that could do a small job like that. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By cutler25: Another option, but almost seems very close in steps....but mainly because I already have the barrel from different build View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By cutler25: Originally Posted By WUPHF: If this is such a difficult endeavor, why not find someone to cut the longer barrel back as normal then have them (or someone else) replicate the barrel markings in the correct location? Whether the "correct" barrel markings are stamped, engraved, laser'd, etc, there's got to be at least a handful of places that could do a small job like that. It’s only money, right? |
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This interests me as somebody who owns a lathe and dabbles a bit.
I understand you could chuck the barrel up and dial it in to try to get as close to concentric as possible with what's already there. Maybe even toss a live center in the business end so whatever you cut will be very close to concentric with the bore. Then you could turn the barrel down behind the threads to the major diameter of the threads, and make your shoulder at the same time. Where do you go after that? Do you cut those 0.30" worth of threads with a die so they continue from the existing ones? It seems like a nightmare trying to get anything setup so you could single point cut the threads and have them match the existing ones. |
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Originally Posted By giantpune: This interests me as somebody who owns a lathe and dabbles a bit. I understand you could chuck the barrel up and dial it in to try to get as close to concentric as possible with what's already there. Maybe even toss a live center in the business end so whatever you cut will be very close to concentric with the bore. Then you could turn the barrel down behind the threads to the major diameter of the threads, and make your shoulder at the same time. Where do you go after that? Do you cut those 0.30" worth of threads with a die so they continue from the existing ones? It seems like a nightmare trying to get anything setup so you could single point cut the threads and have them match the existing ones. View Quote You can pick up existing threads on a lathe. It would suck on 1/2-28. The problem here is that there is a relief cut at the shoulder which is already smaller than the root of the thread. There would be a gap between the existing threads and the new threads. |
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Originally Posted By JKrammes: You can pick up existing threads on a lathe. It would suck on 1/2-28. The problem here is that there is a relief cut at the shoulder which is already smaller than the root of the thread. There would be a gap between the existing threads and the new threads. View Quote |
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