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4/1/2016 11:52:05 PM EDT
I need an upper bored out to a slightly larger diameter, 1.116".  Who would you guys recommend, either machine shop or gunsmith?
4/2/2016 7:12:44 AM EDT
[#1]
The minor diameter of the threads is 1.1824"  if you bore out to 1.116 that's not going to leave enough for any strength.
4/2/2016 7:19:01 AM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
The minor diameter of the threads is 1.1824"  if you bore out to 1.116 that's not going to leave enough for any strength.
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Well aware, don't need the entire thing bored out, just most of it.
4/2/2016 8:28:25 AM EDT
[#3]
Any machine shop could do it. Simple job and it's not a registered gun part.

Curious what did you plan on using this for?
4/3/2016 8:00:45 AM EDT
[#4]
Not as easy as it may seem.  Hard coat, interrupted cut, thin walls, nowhere to clamp that's flat. A good machine shop is going to be your best bet. Someone that has smallish diameter deep hole boring bars
4/3/2016 1:48:53 PM EDT
[#5]
Walk in the park,

Chuck side gets a piece of round stock bored and ID threaded to 1.25x18 (or just gas tube type barrel nut sitting around),

Back of the receiver gets a piece of round stock bored to match the back of the receiver so it can be put in a roller steady rest to hold it solid, and the inside of the bore can be cleanly bored to what every you want on a lathe.


If all you have is a mill, then clam shell type upper receiver block can be used to tram the upper in the vise, and a boring bar in boring head used to open the ID of the receiver isntead.

The lathe will end up with the ID smoother, but Mill with boring bar will be a lot faster isntead (don't have to make support tooling).
4/3/2016 4:56:32 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
Walk in the park,

Chuck side gets a piece of round stock bored and ID threaded to 1.25x18 (or just gas tube type barrel nut sitting around),

Back of the receiver gets a piece of round stock bored to match the back of the receiver so it can be put in a roller steady rest to hold it solid, and the inside of the bore can be cleanly bored to what every you want on a lathe.


If all you have is a mill, then clam shell type upper receiver block can be used to tram the upper in the vise, and a boring bar in boring head used to open the ID of the receiver isntead.

The lathe will end up with the ID smoother, but Mill with boring bar will be a lot faster isntead (don't have to make support tooling).
View Quote


This is probably an airsoft mod.  The question comes up every now and then.

Your walk in the park will probably cost 4 hours of machine shop time.  I don't know where you are from, but machine shop time is expensive where I am.  You may be able to find a new AR for cheaper than this machine work will cost.
4/3/2016 5:15:46 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
This is probably an airsoft mod.
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. Why would I bore out a real upper for an airsoft project?  I'm just trying to shave some weight

There's a couple of automotive machine shops local to me, I'll check with them and see if they can do it.
4/3/2016 7:53:29 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:


Your walk in the park will probably cost 4 hours of machine shop time.  I don't know where you are from, but machine shop time is expensive where I am.  You may be able to find a new AR for cheaper than this machine work will cost.
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About 15 mins via mill, including set up time to get the upper trammed correctly so you can run a few passes to bore it out to the intended ID.

Hell, tramming in the easy part, since I already have a Mandel that used  in the ID of the receiver that I use to face the upper barrel face in a lathe, and can just run a spinal dial indicator down the sides of it front and side on the Z axis to make sure the ID of the receiver it trammed to the spindle before boring.

So at most, a smith should only be charging him his minimal milling flat rates to begin with.  
And hell, since the upper receiver has a front and back pivot lugs, don't really even need a clamp shell upper receiver vise block, since they can use the pivot lub for clamping to just  horizontal bore instead.
4/4/2016 5:57:48 PM EDT
[#9]
Always consider the resulting 'cost' of a failure.
4/4/2016 9:27:03 PM EDT
[#10]
If I had to guess I'd say a shop will charge you anywhere from $50-$200 depending on how tight you want the tolerance of the bore to be held to.

Can I ask what you intend to do with it once its bored?
4/12/2016 12:36:08 AM EDT
[#11]

Quote History
Quoted:
. Why would I bore out a real upper for an airsoft project?  I'm just trying to shave some weight



There's a couple of automotive machine shops local to me, I'll check with them and see if they can do it.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:



Quoted:

This is probably an airsoft mod.




. Why would I bore out a real upper for an airsoft project?  I'm just trying to shave some weight



There's a couple of automotive machine shops local to me, I'll check with them and see if they can do it.



That's going to be some good money spent to save wight you won't notice

 
4/12/2016 12:44:33 AM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:
That's going to be some good money spent to save wight you won't notice  
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Oh it will definitely be noticeable.
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