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Posted: 3/1/2014 2:22:27 PM EDT
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I am ready to start my 80% build but have a couple of questions. The lower I have is anodized. I will be doing the milling on a press at the lowest speed possible.
Do I need to keep the end mill lubed? If so what lube do I use that will not ruin the Anodized finish? |
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I will be doing the milling on a press at the lowest speed possible. With either mist or flood to keep the cutter cool, the correct speed and feed rates, and the correct flute cutter (want a two flute cutter), you don't need slow spindle speeds to mill aluminum. As for a basic drill press to use for milling, not the right machine since both the shaft and bearings on the machine are not set up to take lateral forces, and could just end up snapping the drill press shaft and having the chuck end up burred in your face. Throw the fact in that most drill press chucks have a ton of run out, and may be just looking a lost case, with more money spend replacing the destroyed drill press, then you just save by machine finishing your own lower. Also to add, don't skip on reamers. Drill bits will always end up with the channel's higher up on the drill bit larger than the tip of the drill bit that it first starting to drill out. |
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I have to agree with Dano523 a drill press is not the best method to mill out a lower forging but it is only an 80%er so It can be done if your careful. I have a few noted of caution for you.
1) remember to only go in 5/8s of an inch for the take down pin area and 1.25" down for the fire control group so you don't weaken the piece or blow through the bottom. 2) when drilling the hammer/ trigger pin and safety holes that the 80%er is square with the shaft of your machine and use sharp high quality bits to avoid applying undue force and knocking the piece out of alignment.it is very easy mess up this part and have a non functioning or un safe receiver. 3) if you can find a mini-mill to use it will be more accurate than a drill press and if it has a digital readout even better. I spent a lit of time with a calculator and double checking when I lost count. Mike |
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 adjust tin foil hat.
That's a valid reason. Quoted:
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No serial number, no registration, no body knows adjust tin foil hat.
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oh and because you can. That's a valid reason. Go away. This is the build it yourself forum. BTW, WD-40 is one of the best cutting fluids for aluminum. |
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Go away. This is the build it yourself forum. BTW, WD-40 is one of the best cutting fluids for aluminum. Quoted:
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No serial number, no registration, no body knows adjust tin foil hat.
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oh and because you can. That's a valid reason. Go away. This is the build it yourself forum. BTW, WD-40 is one of the best cutting fluids for aluminum. Do you mist the part or run a steady stream as it cuts? |
| Yes,,, it is and yes I am! But you are forgiven. On a lighter note, yes WD-40 does work on aluminum, but it's better to use actual cutting oil. WD will leave an oily residue that turns into brown glue. Use Magic Tap or other cutting/ tapping oil and then gun scrubber cleans it off with no residue left. W-D = water displacing. |
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WD-40 is mineral spirits and fish oil.
Due to the mineral spirits, its flammable. Worst yet, since its really not an oil in the true sense, but dissolves grease and oils, not so great to use on a machine that you have greased/oil bearing parts since it just going to dissolve those lubes away. Koolmist mixed on the other hand, is less expensive, and works great for flood, or misting. And if you get mixed coolmist in your eye, your not jumping around doing the pink eye swearing dance. Trust is, all your trying to do is keep the end mill from getting hot; to prevent the aluminum from bonding to the cutter. Two flute end mill, and light misting with Koolmist will keep the cutter cool and clean, and for pennies per project. |
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WD-40 is mineral spirits and fish oil. Due to the mineral spirits, it flammable. Worst yet, since its really not an oil in the true sense, but dissolves grease and oils, not so great to use on a machine that you have greased/oil bearing parts since it just going to dissolve those lubes away. Koolmist mixed on the other hand, is less expensive, and works great for flood, or misting. And if you get mixed coolmist in your eye, your not jumping around doing the pink eye swearing dance. Trust is, all your trying to do is keep the end mill from getting hot; to prevent the aluminum from bonding to the cutter. Two flute end mill, and light misting with Koolmist will keep the cutter cool and clean, and for pennies per project. 100% agree! Forgot about Koolmist. I run Mobil 1 water soluble cutting oil in both my lathe and mill. Both have coolant pumps and flood type systems installed. Misting is great if you have alot of air flow in your shop, if not it can get alittle "misty" with no circulation. |
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100% agree! Forgot about Koolmist. I run Mobil 1 water soluble cutting oil in both my lathe and mill. Both have coolant pumps and flood type systems installed. Misting is great if you have alot of air flow in your shop, if not it can get a little "misty" with no circulation. Depending on how you make the misting unit. I made/set my up to put down heaver droplets than the normal airbrush type spraying fog mist, so I don't get all that Mist fogging going on from a fine mist getting kicked back up/defected off the work piece back into the air. A pint of koolmist is only around $7, and makes 4 gallons of misting mix. |
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