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Posted: 12/19/2013 7:23:26 PM EDT
| I've read a lot of people having similar issues but nothing really seems to work for me from what I have been reading on other people's. My bolt goes forward fine without anything in the chamber, but when I chamber a round it won't close all the way like the bullet is almost too big for the barrel itself. I am using reloads and don't have any factory made stuff but I can't see it being a huge issue since I have been using a dummy round at different lengths to try jamming it in to find if one at shorter length than the OAL would work better. I'm using 175 gr Speer MK and seated in LC brass. Any ideas? |
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Are you the one reloading for the gun? Gonna say it's the ammo and not the gun. Check the AOL of the cases and trim if too long, then wet the sizer die down further. Mine usually touches the shell plate. Also make sure you are not using a neck sizer especially if the brass was not fired out of that gun. |
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Quoted:
Are you the one reloading for the gun? Gonna say it's the ammo and not the gun. Check the AOL of the cases and trim if too long, then wet the sizer die down further. Mine usually touches the shell plate. Also make sure you are not using a neck sizer especially if the brass was not fired out of that gun. I'm reloading yes, Already checked the case length maybe I could try trimming lower than what it's supposed to be. The brass wasn't fired out of my gun I got it all used. I guess this is a noobie question in the world or reloading in which I am lol And I have been reloading 5.56 and 9mm just fine, why is it different now with .308? I'm doing everything the same. |
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This. You need to seat the bullet to correct OAL I've been testing different lengths, first the OAL of 2.800...seemed too long so I switched. Brought it down to 2.750 still to long brought it down to 2.700 STILL too long...I almost feel like maybe my bore wasn't cut out enough to house a .308 since i have not even fired it before. It's still brand new. If I go any lower it's gonna build up too much pressure from being seated to far in. Saw the edit...hmm maybe if I went lower on the case length and then seated lower maybe? |
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Ok I have been jamming that round in there with some force no worries of it going off It's only brass and lead not primer or powder in it. Case length extremely low at 2.009 and OAL of 2.700...I think either the bullet is to big for the barrel or Remington screwed up when they bored out the barrel which isn't unheard of.
I know I only have had 6 months experience in reloading but I have been shooting 5.56 and 9mm just fine....so I don't see .308 being that much harder. |
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First you need to try some factory rounds. If they chamber then you know the issue is with your reloaded ammo. If not, then contact Remington.
Will the ejector fully depress? It can get jammed with brass shaving or other debris. Are you lubing the inside of the neck on the brass when resizing? When the expander ball comes back out of the case it can stretch the shoulder forward casing the head space datum to move forward and increase. This is hardly noticeable in the brass OAL. Added later -Oh yeah... Full length size that brass if you are not already doing so |
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You will need to try chambering a couple of factory loads, they should work fine. Also, you should be full length resizing, not just the neck. You're using brass fired from a different gun, and chambers aren't exactly the same from one gun to another. This is a good point ^^^ For your first loading you need to Full-length size. Then, any subsequent loadings after the first that you plan to use in this gun, and this gun only can then be neck-sized only. |
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This is a post on this topic I made just a couple of days past in the reloading forum -
This problem is so common it's hard to believe that standard load manuals don't include a word. The brass you reloaded is too long along the dimension from the case head to the datum on the shoulder. Reloaders call this cartridge headspace. It is not the same as case overall length which should never affect closing of the bolt. The most common reason this occurs is caused by pulling the case shoulder out upon withdrawal of the expander ball during the sizing operation. The cure is to include a little lube inside the case neck. The expander ball drags enough to undo part of the sizing operation in which the case shoulder was pulled back out causing hard chambering; only a half thousandth of an inch is needed to cause this problem. The next most common reason is failure to push the shoulder back far enough during the sizing operation due to improper die adjustment. The third most common occurs after cases have been fired three or four times and only neck sized without touching the case body. This is the point where a full length or body sizer die is required to squeeze the case body back down to a smaller diameter so the cartridges will chamber correctly. It's also the point where the case necks and shoulders should probably be annealed before the next reload. This occurs with bolt guns and auto loaders. Hornady and Sinclair make sets of gages that are used along with a caliper that allows exact measurement of fired cases so the shoulder can be pushed back a sufficient amount to insure chambering. I use 0.001 to 0.0015 for bolt gun ammunition, and 0.0015 to 0.003 for autoloader ammunition. A fixed drop in type gage can also be used to set up the die, but the shoulder will be pushed back 0.008 inches in my experience. I prefer the first method. This is the Hornady version of the tool: Hornady Headspace Gauge Kits Your die is not the problem unless it's defective, and that's rare but not impossible. Occasionally a shell holder has a top flange that is so thick it prevents the die from engulfing the case far enough to push the should back far enough. Cartridge Overall Length is almost never the problem unless the gun has a chamber with a sufficiently short throat to touch the rifling origin with the bullet ogive. Not common in off the rack guns, reasonably likely in guns with custom barrels and chambers, and I would double check every gun to know. The thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/413655_Bolt_won_t_close_with_reloaded_brass.html |
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This is a post on this topic I made just a couple of days past in the reloading forum - Cartridge Overall Length is almost never the problem unless the gun has a chamber with a sufficiently short throat to touch the rifling origin with the bullet ogive. Not common in off the rack guns, reasonably likely in guns with custom barrels and chambers, and I would double check every gun to know. The thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/413655_Bolt_won_t_close_with_reloaded_brass.html Quoted:
This is a post on this topic I made just a couple of days past in the reloading forum - This problem is so common it's hard to believe that standard load manuals don't include a word. The brass you reloaded is too long along the dimension from the case head to the datum on the shoulder. Reloaders call this cartridge headspace. It is not the same as case overall length which should never affect closing of the bolt. The most common reason this occurs is caused by pulling the case shoulder out upon withdrawal of the expander ball during the sizing operation. The cure is to include a little lube inside the case neck. The expander ball drags enough to undo part of the sizing operation in which the case shoulder was pulled back out causing hard chambering; only a half thousandth of an inch is needed to cause this problem. The next most common reason...... Cartridge Overall Length is almost never the problem unless the gun has a chamber with a sufficiently short throat to touch the rifling origin with the bullet ogive. Not common in off the rack guns, reasonably likely in guns with custom barrels and chambers, and I would double check every gun to know. The thread: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/413655_Bolt_won_t_close_with_reloaded_brass.html I'm sticking with that one (called it at 5:37 am) because I have been there, done that 
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This is a good point ^^^ For your first loading you need to Full-length size. Then, any subsequent loadings after the first that you plan to use in this gun, and this gun only can then be neck-sized only. Quoted:
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You will need to try chambering a couple of factory loads, they should work fine. Also, you should be full length resizing, not just the neck. You're using brass fired from a different gun, and chambers aren't exactly the same from one gun to another. This is a good point ^^^ For your first loading you need to Full-length size. Then, any subsequent loadings after the first that you plan to use in this gun, and this gun only can then be neck-sized only. Well I did the full length resizing I thought it was gonna work after I felt it go all the way up into the die and seemed slightly different. I don't get any scratches on the brass I've been putting it through some abuse now and all the scratches appear on the bullet itself. Like I know I am trying to force it into the barrel. I decided to slug it as well it came out to be .308 so the bore is fine as well. I went out and bought two different kinds of factory to make sure it wasn't the gr size. One in 147 gr by Winchester and one in 180 gr by Remington. Both cycled fine. At least I know now it's just my reloads. I'll just have to figure out what's up with those instead. |
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PROBLEM SOLVED!! What I was doing wrong was that when I was going to re size the brass in the resizing die that instead of doing a 1/4 - 1/2 turn clock wise I was doing a counter clock wise turn so it wasn't getting fully re sized. GOT IT!! Now if anyone has a way of getting a broken screw for the base mount out without a gunsmith that would be great....lol The nearest gunsmith for me is 4 hours away.
Also tried an EZ out there isn't an EZ out small enough to get in that small screw. |
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Hopefully the screw isn't glued in with loctite.
Use a sharp small diameter center punch, or make one up from large heavy needle, and a light hammer to see if you can turn the screw. If there is loctite in the joint, heat 'er up with a hair dryer, just as hot as you get it, then work on the screw. Tap away from the center, but not into the threads or you'll stake the stub in there good. |
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Quoted: PROBLEM SOLVED!! What I was doing wrong was that when I was going to re size the brass in the resizing die that instead of doing a 1/4 - 1/2 turn clock wise I was doing a counter clock wise turn so it wasn't getting fully re sized. GOT IT!! Now if anyone has a way of getting a broken screw for the base mount out without a gunsmith that would be great....lol The nearest gunsmith for me is 4 hours away. Also tried an EZ out there isn't an EZ out small enough to get in that small screw. |
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Quoted:
Hopefully the screw isn't glued in with loctite. Use a sharp small diameter center punch, or make one up from large heavy needle, and a light hammer to see if you can turn the screw. If there is loctite in the joint, heat 'er up with a hair dryer, just as hot as you get it, then work on the screw. Tap away from the center, but not into the threads or you'll stake the stub in there good. No loctite that I used. I just used the basic leupold screws that came with the mount with the half blue on it. I'll try that when I get home. |
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That didn't work pretty much broke everything "needle like" I was using trying to spin it around. I don't understand how there isn't any smiths around here to help me out. Is my only option to see if Remington won't just let me send it to them? When I can't easily remove a broken screw using the method AeroE told you about then I set the receiver in the mill vice, indicate to the center of the screw hole, center a starting hole with a stiff center drill, then drill out the remains of the screw and clean out the hole with a tap of the original size. Straight forward procedure for a decent smith or machinist, but you do need the proper tools and know how. Send me an IM if you need more info. |
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When I can't easily remove a broken screw using the method AeroE told you about then I set the receiver in the mill vice, indicate to the center of the screw hole, center a starting hole with a stiff center drill, then drill out the remains of the screw and clean out the hole with a tap of the original size. Straight forward procedure for a decent smith or machinist, but you do need the proper tools and know how. Send me an IM if you need more info. Quoted:
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That didn't work pretty much broke everything "needle like" I was using trying to spin it around. I don't understand how there isn't any smiths around here to help me out. Is my only option to see if Remington won't just let me send it to them? When I can't easily remove a broken screw using the method AeroE told you about then I set the receiver in the mill vice, indicate to the center of the screw hole, center a starting hole with a stiff center drill, then drill out the remains of the screw and clean out the hole with a tap of the original size. Straight forward procedure for a decent smith or machinist, but you do need the proper tools and know how. Send me an IM if you need more info. I'm neither of those lol just a guy with an electric drill haha I was able to get it flush with a very small flat head screw driver but now it won't move anymore. I think I'm just gonna call Remington and send it back to them. |
| HAH!! Got that 6/48 screw out without a gunsmith!! I almost feel like a first for this since I didn't find any answers for it on the internet lol Drilled a hole through it after screwing it flush with the top of the rifle and and a #1 EZ out was just big enough for it to fit into. (I figured I'd try one last time before taking it to a gunsmith) Probably saved me from 20 - 100 bucks depending on what gunsmiths charge for this kind of job. I also wanted people to know it is possible to get out on your own. |
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