Armory Sponsor
Posted: 11/15/2013 4:01:04 PM EDT
| anyone ever attempt dimpling a tapered barrel? I'm in gunsmithing school at the moment and have been trying out dimpling which has been easy on a non tapered barrel. now I would like to attempt it on a leftover remington 700 barrel I have laying around and I am trying to figure out how to do it in a fashion that would look decent. indicate off the bore and mill to a constant depth causing the dimple size to shrink as I move down the barrel? or make the mill see the contoured barrel as flat and allow the pattern to spread out as I move up the barrel? Any other options or ideas would be appreciated. Also sorry if not all my terminology is correct (still learning a large amount of this stuff) |
|
Quoted:
Terminolgy is fine. Just a re-read five times to figure out WTF you were posting. indicate off the bore and mill to a constant depth causing the dimple size to shrink as I move down the barrel. trying to think of a better way to explain it, I'd be using a 5/16 ball end mill and I'd only be going down about .050 near the muzzle, but as the diameter of the barrel increases moving back towards the chamber the depth cut into the barrel would increase and as depth increases so would diameter of the dimples up to a maximum of 5/16. hopefully that makes more sense. |
|
Are you fluting, and with the x axis of the cutter set square with the bore, and not the OD of the Surface of the barrel instead; ending up with flutes that are not consistent with the OD of the barrel through the X axis.
If yes, then you need to adjust the tail stock upwards to compensate for the barrel taper so the barrel surface is square/plane'd with the cutter for full X cutting axis of the surface that you are wishing to flute. Also to add, you may need to shim the rotary table to achieve surface plane for indexing cutting. |
|
Quoted:
You explained it fine on the first post. Just took me awhile to figure it out. Dimples are not the same as flutes. yep, dimpling is what I have been practicing, just wanting to try to do it on a tapered barrel and do it on a manner that looks good and has a consistent pattern. Mostly just asking to see if anyone else has dimpled a tapered barrel and if they have, what way did they decide to go about it to keep a good pattern. pretty much either you have to allow the diameter and depth of the dimples to get smaller as you near the muzzle, or you keep the same diameter and depth but the spacing increases between the dimples as you move towards the chamber. which method produces a more appealing look? |
|
Quoted:
Are you fluting, and with the x axis of the cutter set square with the bore, and not the OD of the Surface of the barrel instead; ending up with flutes that are not consistent with the OD of the barrel through the X axis. If yes, then you need to adjust the tail stock upwards to compensate for the barrel taper so the barrel surface is square/plane'd with the cutter for full X cutting axis of the surface that you are wishing to flute. Also to add, you may need to shim the rotary table to achieve surface plane for indexing cutting. set up and cutting are fine. just trying to figure out what pattern will look better. if the barrel surface is square the spacing between the staggered rows of dimples will decrease as you move towards the muzzle ( not saying this is bad, just trying to figure out if it looks better to have the spacing between the dimples change as you move down the barrel, or keep the spacing between dimples the same and allow the depth and diameter of the dimples to change instead) |
|
My SOP when faced with a “how will it look” decision is generally try it both ways ( if you can find 2 donor barrels of similar taper) and see how it looks.
Depending upon the taper of the barrel your idea of keeping the dimples a similar size along the length may cause the dimples on the larger/chamber end to go fairly deep if you are sill cutting a full diameter at the smaller end of the barrel (that is if the cutter is going to a consistent depth in relation to the bore (otherwise you'll have a lot of depth adjustments to keep track of) |
|
Truthfully, the more complex, the better it going to look.
Myself, I would set up the rotary table indexer for a spiral pattern down the barrel, and go with shallower dimples the closer you get to the muzzle. Because the dimples will be shallower towards the muzzle, to keep the edge to edge of dimples the same, you will have to decrease the distance of the center line of dimple to dimple towards the muzzle as they decrease in depth. |
Armory Sponsor