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Posted: 6/17/2011 12:18:48 PM EDT
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does anyone have any advice on how to unseiz the head on it?
ive pumped it full of penetrating fluid and physically moved the head around i wana try to keep from separating the head http://i375.photobucket.com/albums/oo191/bfdcostombanners/gunshop/PIC-0745.jpg |
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Quoted:
shes worked for years and then she sat couple winters and this happened.(the actually head comes off i have a 3 dimensional head i can attach.) ? Trying to figure out what you are saying. You might consider tearing the headstock down all the same. I bought a 1960's lathe with congealed grease in the apron and headstock. This grease created a drag on the tapered bearing preload collar creating a lot of slop in the headstock as that collar wore down after every adjustment.... |
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Do the bearings have oil cups or some other means to add lubrication? There should be some provision; start pumping a light oil in there to dissolve the old hardened lube and push it out, then relube with the correct oil. I wouldn't be afraid to put some denatured alcohol in there to clean the bearings out, just don't crank the spindle much while it's starved for lube.
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Tear it down, clean the grease out of the bearings with mineral spirits or some form of high flash point solvent. Never use gasoline!!!!! If the headstock is fitted with Zircon or Alemite fittings replace them with the appropriate oil cups from McMaster - Carr Catalog.
Lead babbit bearings are oiled not greased. Bronze plain bearings are also oiled from a reservoir via capillary wicks. the bearings are cleaned by frequent oiling, flushing the accumulated dietritus out the front bottom bearing. That is why some of the early steam era machines had reservoir bullbs on top of the bearings for gravity feed and were replenished regularly. It was the job of the oiler or "grease monkey" to keep them "topped off". Felt wicks and filters were variously employed to regulate or distribute the oil flow. Re-pouring a burnt or scorred babbit (lead/tin alloy), bearing is an involved process. Oil channels are then cut with a bent grooving chisel. They lathe ways "float" on a film of WAY OIL. If you are not lubing the ways regularly prior to each use you are running metal on metal and wearing down the ways. All of the preceeding is based on the "Oil Wedge Principal". The various oils used to lube the lathe run from a liight weight machine oil, #10 or #20 weight, for the head stock and apron to the way oil which is similar in vicosity to chain saw bar oil. Try J & L Industrial Supply/MSC for the recommended oil, available by the gallon. DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE ENGINE OIL! It has chemicals and elements that eventually dry to a tough yellow film, are dangerous to breath for extended periods, and it STINKS!!!! Find the appropriate forum for your specific brand of lathe at www.practicalmachinist.com. Some one there may provide more specific recommendations. Enjoy the journey. USN - RET Machine Shop Instuctor - Retired |
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