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Posted: 4/7/2011 5:59:27 AM EDT
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I'm buying a used police trade-in CZ 75, can anything be done to erase import marks?
Can the marks be filled in with silver solder, or JB weld or anything similar? I plan on having the gun refinished, but could do w/o the importer initials on the slide. Thanks |
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Quoted:
This is the kind of question you should ask the BATF in a letter. Im certainly not trying to violate any laws. I was just curious as to if something could be done to them. Cosmetic wise they look like crap, they don't match factory rollmarks and they are just initials of the importer. If your aware of any federal violations, please share. |
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Choices are to fill the stamps or remove them.
Apparently, as long as you don't touch the actual serial number or makers name, you can remove import stamps. To fill, you have to understand that most fillers will NOT work with any kind of chemical or plated finish. Fillers only work with the epoxy or lacquer "paint type" coatings like Duracoat or Aluma-Hyde. Lauer Duracoat sell a special filler that works with the paint type finishes Filling with solder isn't a very good method and still won't work with most chemical or plated finishes. The only filler that will work with most finishes is to have the stamps welded with a Tig welder. This is no job for anyone but an expert gunsmith/master welder who knows how to do it without ruining the gun. This doesn't mean the guy at the local welding shop. This method also can be less than satisfactory with chemical finishes like bluing and parkerizing since the difference in metal and welding rod will usually allow the welds to show under the finish as either a "blush" or a different color. The last method is physically removing the stamps. This means the slide or frame is polished or draw filed until enough metal is removed that you get to the bottom of the stamps. This may require significant metal removal and may leave the part "lop-sided" looking with more metal left on one side than the side the stamps were removed from. This too requires a real expert to prevent the parts from getting rounded off, dished out, or having waves or ripples in the flats. This is something best left to one of the professional gun refinishing services like APW/Cogan or Ford's. |
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Quoted:
Choices are to fill the stamps or remove them. Apparently, as long as you don't touch the actual serial number or makers name, you can remove import stamps. To fill, you have to understand that most fillers will NOT work with any kind of chemical or plated finish. Fillers only work with the epoxy or lacquer "paint type" coatings like Duracoat or Aluma-Hyde. Lauer Duracoat sell a special filler that works with the paint type finishes Filling with solder isn't a very good method and still won't work with most chemical or plated finishes. The only filler that will work with most finishes is to have the stamps welded with a Tig welder. This is no job for anyone but an expert gunsmith/master welder who knows how to do it without ruining the gun. This doesn't mean the guy at the local welding shop. This method also can be less than satisfactory with chemical finishes like bluing and parkerizing since the difference in metal and welding rod will usually allow the welds to show under the finish as either a "blush" or a different color. The last method is physically removing the stamps. This means the slide or frame is polished or draw filed until enough metal is removed that you get to the bottom of the stamps. This may require significant metal removal and may leave the part "lop-sided" looking with more metal left on one side than the side the stamps were removed from. This too requires a real expert to prevent the parts from getting rounded off, dished out, or having waves or ripples in the flats. This is something best left to one of the professional gun refinishing services like APW/Cogan or Ford's. Thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to know. I knew S/N was a no-no, but I wasn't sure about the bold initials of the person that imported it. |
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