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Posted: 9/13/2013 7:52:34 PM EDT
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Here's what I used:
White LED's - 15' roll Power Supply Switch I'm looking for a different switch though, this one works but it's just not as clean as I would like with the way that I had to mount it in my safe. The roll of lights is the perfect length to go around all 4 sides of the Fatboy Jr. with about 4" of overlap at the ends. |
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Yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards. I've been scoping out 12v motion sensors trying to find one with decent reviews. Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice setup! I'm sure you could do a motion sensor on that also. Yeah, that's what I'm leaning towards. I've been scoping out 12v motion sensors trying to find one with decent reviews. Let us know what you find... I'm looking also. |
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Quoted:
I'm looking for a different switch though, this one works but it's just not as clean as I would like with the way that I had to mount it in my safe. |
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I use a remote control switch that they sell for holiday lighting. I also have one lamp on the outside of the safe that shines down on what you are holding in your hands. That lamp lets you know the lights inside your safe are off.
I use the hockey puck 110V halogen lamps, sold at Home Depot. I haven't seen anything brighter on the market. |
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I used this PIR sensor with my kit and it works well:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/switches/intelligent-pir-motion-sensor-switch/969/2371/ They also have this proximity sensor: http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/switches/isensor-universal-proximity-switch/1116/2636/ |
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And how do you mount the switch?
I have a new kit I have been waiting on getting installed, but have been at a loss on installing the switch. Looks pretty dang close to the one you posted in your response to the type of kit, but just cant find a way to mount it in the safe. Any suggestions would be great. |
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And how do you mount the switch? I have a new kit I have been waiting on getting installed, but have been at a loss on installing the switch. Looks pretty dang close to the one you posted in your response to the type of kit, but just cant find a way to mount it in the safe. Any suggestions would be great. Couple of examples: [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkdONS36Ah4[/youtube] [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6n3JDWb1w0[/youtube] |
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I have a switch like this one.
Just having a hard time figuring out how/where to mount it. |
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This guy is also using a roller switch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp87_3ndngg |
| Too many projects, too little time. I'll try to get some pictures of the install later. I mounted a SPDT roller switch to the wall of the safe with drywall screws. It's just below the plastic pocket that the hinge recesses into, and is activated by the hinge when the door opens/closes. My biggest battle has been getting the light strip to stay put. The adhesive on the back doesn't stick to the carpet very well. I superglued some velcro squares to the back of the lights, those stick to the carpet really well. We'll see how that works out. |
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You gentlemen are making this too complicated. You ran regular 120VAC into your safe, correct? And you're using a 12VDC wall-wart?
I used one of these... and it only turns on when I open the door and it senses me standing there. Ran the same 12VDC adhesive LED strip around the inside of the door. It illuminates the safe interior perfectly.
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You gentlemen are making this too complicated. You ran regular 120VAC into your safe, correct? And you're using a 12VDC wall-wart? I used one of these... and it only turns on when I open the door and it senses me standing there. Ran the same 12VDC adhesive LED strip around the inside of the door. It illuminates the safe interior perfectly. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4153iSdfg4L._SX385_.jpg Been using a similar product for several years and I love it. Get the one that has the sensor on its own cord so it can be placed anywhere you want. Mine allows we to adjust the time is stays on. |
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I saw a thread about a year ago and the guy used the same lights, but he used a magnet switch like these...here
I've had the led lights like that for a couple years now, but I've been wanting to get a switch as well. I just have the remote velco'd on the door of the safe. |
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Isn't it great there are so many lighting kits available now for gun safes.
LED technology is slowly blowing past the ballast operated flourescent lighting. And to the OP I am happy to see you put the door opening side of the safe in a protected corner to help stop the dreaded pry attack. Nice set up. |
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Quoted:
Isn't it great there are so many lighting kits available now for gun safes. LED technology is slowly blowing past the ballast operated flourescent lighting. And to the OP I am happy to see you put the door opening side of the safe in a protected corner to help stop the dreaded pry attack. Nice set up. It is nice that for $25 and a tiny bit of electrical ability you can have a set of lights that works just as well as a $100+ kit. One of the two requirements I had when we were trying to figure out where to put the safe was that the door opening was in a corner. The first was that the safe was in the bedroom...luckily I have an understanding wife that has almost as many guns in the safe as I do. |
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Quoted:
Here's what I used: White LED's - 15' roll Power Supply Switch I'm looking for a different switch though, this one works but it's just not as clean as I would like with the way that I had to mount it in my safe. The roll of lights is the perfect length to go around all 4 sides of the Fatboy Jr. with about 4" of overlap at the ends. Any chance you could take a pic of how you mounted the switch that you currently have? |
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I also bought a roll of those "tape" led strips (I believe 16 feet). They may be cut at sections every 3 inches or so. I also bought some two pin connectors which allow a led strip to make a turn or go around a corner. For some reason, I have had the most difficult time getting the corner connectors to continue the flow of electricity from one led strip to the next. I have confirmed that both strips work independently, but when I attempt to draw power to strip B, through strip A, no dice.
Should I abandon these connectors and try soldering the connections? |
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