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Posted: 6/6/2013 11:39:17 AM EDT
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New house has an alarm system. Problem is it's "unplugged". What is the likelihood that I plug it back in and the alarm goes off? I don't have the code, but I'd like to "reset" this thing and use it. Is my only option to call a security company?
I found the manual online, but couldn't find anything about "resetting" the system after being unplugged or for a new user. Any idea? |
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What are the details of the alarm system? That would help. Take a pic of the circuit board in the box. It'll have 10-30 wires in a block that are zones, power, siren, and phone. If you want to tinker with the system, I'd recommend disconnecting the phone and siren(Sometimes Bell I think) and then its yours to figure out.
The tranformer plug in the wall goes bad regularly. If It doesn't power up, I'd try a new one of those before anything. Most Common are DSC, Honeywell (Vista) and GE. |
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I'm not at home so I can't see, but I remember finding the manual and it said it was a GE Condor....upon some research Condor 4 seemed to come up a lot. I read that manual, but couldn't find anything about resetting the system. There is a control box that has a plug and and battery backup. The plug is just kind of hanging there. I can get pictures up later. I'm also unsure as to whether or not the outside lights are "semi" connected to it. I have three sets of outdoor flood lights all are "activiated" by separate indoor light switches, but when activated they just stay on....even though they have sensors (I know this just became two headed) |
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Quoted:
What are the details of the alarm system? That would help. Take a pic of the circuit board in the box. It'll have 10-30 wires in a block that are zones, power, siren, and phone. If you want to tinker with the system, I'd recommend disconnecting the phone and siren(Sometimes Bell I think) and then its yours to figure out. The tranformer plug in the wall goes bad regularly. If It doesn't power up, I'd try a new one of those before anything. Most Common are DSC, Honeywell (Vista) and GE. No phone in the house so don't think it's connected...which is fine, I don't plan to have it monitored. |
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I'm not at home so I can't see, but I remember finding the manual and it said it was a GE Condor....upon some research Condor 4 seemed to come up a lot. I read that manual, but couldn't find anything about resetting the system. There is a control box that has a plug and and battery backup. The plug is just kind of hanging there. I can get pictures up later. I'm also unsure as to whether or not the outside lights are "semi" connected to it. I have three sets of outdoor flood lights all are "activiated" by separate indoor light switches, but when activated they just stay on....even though they have sensors (I know this just became two headed) I doubt the lights are tied in. Concord is probably what you meant to say. Pretty common and I can point you in the right direction up to a point. If the installer put in a custom installer code sometimes its cheaper to replace the board off ebay or buy a new system control unit than to dick around with the old one. The sensors can remain. |
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I'm not at home so I can't see, but I remember finding the manual and it said it was a GE Condor....upon some research Condor 4 seemed to come up a lot. I read that manual, but couldn't find anything about resetting the system. There is a control box that has a plug and and battery backup. The plug is just kind of hanging there. I can get pictures up later. I'm also unsure as to whether or not the outside lights are "semi" connected to it. I have three sets of outdoor flood lights all are "activiated" by separate indoor light switches, but when activated they just stay on....even though they have sensors (I know this just became two headed) I doubt the lights are tied in. Concord is probably what you meant to say. Pretty common and I can point you in the right direction up to a point. If the installer put in a custom installer code sometimes its cheaper to replace the board off ebay or buy a new system control unit than to dick around with the old one. The sensors can remain. I'll check the manual and tell you guys when I get home around 6pm EST. Thanks so much for the help. |
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I believe this link is to the Installation Manual for your panel: INSTALLATION MANUAL PDF
If you power up the panel, you can try the Default Installer Code of 4321, by entering: 8+4321+0+0.... If the default code had been changed by an alarm technician, your only alternatives are to locate the company which "locked down" your panel and try to get the Installer Code they used so that you can change it, or you will have to replace the panel. The GE panel does not allow a "factory reset" which "unlocks" the firmware. Hope this is accurate, and proves helpful. |
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I would probably replace the panel if I were in your shoes. It's pretty dated. New kits are $150-$200 and include more advanced keypads and wireless sensor capabilities. You can use your existing sensors , etc.
Vista 20p and ge nx-8e are the two most scalable platforms. Both are 150-200 new but used ones are likely available on ebay. There is a DIY security forum you might post on and get some more answers in reviving your panel if you want to go that route. Hard wire monitoring is as cheap as $9/ month. |
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Quoted:
I believe this link is to the Installation Manual for your panel: INSTALLATION MANUAL PDF If you power up the panel, you can try the Default Installer Code of 4321, by entering: 8+4321+0+0.... If the default code had been changed by an alarm technician, your only alternatives are to locate the company which "locked down" your panel and try to get the Installer Code they used so that you can change it, or you will have to replace the panel. The GE panel does not allow a "factory reset" which "unlocks" the firmware. Hope this is accurate, and proves helpful. I'll text the guy that was renting the house. He mentioned that the "battery was dead" not sure what he means by that considering the unit plugs into an outlet. |
| In your photo you can see the black wire is off the battery, someone likely did this to shutdown the system on deactivation or the move-out. The battery may be bad, but connect the wire and let it charge up for a 1/2 day or more and see if you get any different results. May need to cycle power on system after battery is charged. Advice on it being an old system and may be worth the replacement is a valid suggestion as well. Did the guy who owned the house have/ offer you the codes or point you to the installing company? Weigh the costs of a new -vs- having them come out before you try and get the old one up with a billable service trip. Good luck! |
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In your photo you can see the black wire is off the battery, someone likely did this to shutdown the system on deactivation or the move-out. The battery may be bad, but connect the wire and let it charge up for a 1/2 day or more and see if you get any different results. May need to cycle power on system after battery is charged. Advice on it being an old system and may be worth the replacement is a valid suggestion as well. Did the guy who owned the house have/ offer you the codes or point you to the installing company? Weigh the costs of a new -vs- having them come out before you try and get the old one up with a billable service trip. Good luck! It was a weird situation. House was built in 2007 left empty for a year then a family rented until I bought it in May. Luckily, they are good people, so I'll see what else he can tell me. |
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I believe this link is to the Installation Manual for your panel: INSTALLATION MANUAL PDF If you power up the panel, you can try the Default Installer Code of 4321, by entering: 8+4321+0+0.... If the default code had been changed by an alarm technician, your only alternatives are to locate the company which "locked down" your panel and try to get the Installer Code they used so that you can change it, or you will have to replace the panel. The GE panel does not allow a "factory reset" which "unlocks" the firmware. Hope this is accurate, and proves helpful. I'll text the guy that was renting the house. He mentioned that the "battery was dead" not sure what he means by that considering the unit plugs into an outlet. The battery is for backup power during power failures (20 hours at full 7 amp load for this battery). The entire system runs from the battery until commercial (A/C) power is restored. He likely knew that the battery was dead, because the panel provides an indication of low/failed battery. The battery is only a $20 item. Those batteries have a useful life averaging around 5 years or so (affected by operating conditions, charging conditions, etc.). Even if the battery was a "good battery", if it has been left unplugged (discharged) for any significant period of time (i.e. 6 months from full charge state), the plates are most likely sulfated and it will not accept a charge (this is an AGM - Absorbent Glass Mat / sealed lead acid battery, similar to a car battery). Bottom line: If you can get the installer code, you will be able to program the panel and you potentially have a working alarm system. If not, your only option is to buy a new panel (and keypads). However, in many instances, the alarm panel actually belongs to the company which installed and monitored the panel. If that was the case, only the alarm dealer will have the installer code, and he will certainly not disclose it (and he would actually have the right to remove it if he wanted to go to the trouble and expense). |
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Quoted:
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I believe this link is to the Installation Manual for your panel: INSTALLATION MANUAL PDF If you power up the panel, you can try the Default Installer Code of 4321, by entering: 8+4321+0+0.... If the default code had been changed by an alarm technician, your only alternatives are to locate the company which "locked down" your panel and try to get the Installer Code they used so that you can change it, or you will have to replace the panel. The GE panel does not allow a "factory reset" which "unlocks" the firmware. Hope this is accurate, and proves helpful. I'll text the guy that was renting the house. He mentioned that the "battery was dead" not sure what he means by that considering the unit plugs into an outlet. The battery is for backup power during power failures (20 hours at full 7 amp load for this battery). The entire system runs from the battery until commercial (A/C) power is restored. He likely knew that the battery was dead, because the panel provides an indication of low/failed battery. The battery is only a $20 item. Those batteries have a useful life averaging around 5 years or so (affected by operating conditions, charging conditions, etc.). Even if the battery was a "good battery", if it has been left unplugged (discharged) for any significant period of time (i.e. 6 months from full charge state), the plates are most likely sulfated and it will not accept a charge (this is an AGM - Absorbent Glass Mat / sealed lead acid battery, similar to a car battery). Bottom line: If you can get the installer code, you will be able to program the panel and you potentially have a working alarm system. If not, your only option is to buy a new panel (and keypads). However, in many instances, the alarm panel actually belongs to the company which installed and monitored the panel. If that was the case, only the alarm dealer will have the installer code, and he will certainly not disclose it (and he would actually have the right to remove it if he wanted to go to the trouble and expense). I'll have to ask the renter or previous owner. Of course the owner was a corporation so not sure how that will work. |
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