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Posted: 11/22/2010 6:38:40 PM EDT
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I'm looking at buying a 900 lb safe online, and the company only offers surb side delivery. Once they drop that bad boy off in my drive way, how hard is it to get into the house and in place? I'll have the standard hand trucks, dollies, etc. I'll also have the assistance of at least 3 guys. We only have 2 stairs summit. It doesn't sound that hard to do this, but I've said that before.
Is this the kind of favor that is going to cost me beer and pizza, or do I need a bigger bribe? |
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where are you located, what is the size of the safe? Make and model? Located in South Carolina. Property is on a hill, but the driveway is level. Two small steps to get inside the house, and then I have to take it about 20 yards including one small section of hallway. I'm still doing my homework on the particular safe, but it will probably be a Sturdy Safe 36W x 27D x 60H. With fire protection, they weigh in around 900lbs. |
Sturdy says curbside delivery, but that usually includes garage placement - or pretty much anywhere they can roll the pallet jack to without any obstacles. Talk to Sturdy about it, they can arrange most anything for you. Most drivers I've run into are happy to help you muscle it into place in the house for an extra cash gratuity, assuming you have some method to actually get it up the stairs  |
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Sturdy says curbside delivery, but that usually includes garage placement - or pretty much anywhere they can roll the pallet jack to without any obstacles. Talk to Sturdy about it, they can arrange most anything for you. Most drivers I've run into are happy to help you muscle it into place in the house for an extra cash gratuity, assuming you have some method to actually get it up the stairs When you order your sturdy if you scroll clear down to the bottom there are a couple of free delivery options; smaller truck, and garage delivery. basically, if the truck can get in your drive way you wouldn't even need to worry about it the driveway not being completely level. As far as getting it into the house? I would recommend a safe moving company, failing that, with a safe of that size I have seen somewhere around here someone build a ramp using 2x4s and a come along attached to a board placed across a door way to pull the safe up the incline. The problem with the sturdy safe is your looking at a good 900lbs of steel and if it were to get away from you there is allot of damage it could do before stopping. |
| Patriot safe only has curb side too. The 18 wheeler wasnt close to fitting in my driveway. But the nice driver brought the pallet jake all the way up my driveway and dropped it by the back door. He even attempted to lift it up the step but the jacket was about inch too short. anyway I ended up making a ramp with wood and pushing the dolly up it. My safe said 933lbs on the shipping paperwork. |
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Delivery through Sturdy is a residential delivery, where the truck must have a lift gate and pallet jack - safe is strapped to the pallet. Chances are the driver will roll it into your garage without complaint - from there you are on your own.
I hired a professional safe mover to bring the safe into the house and place it in the back room - assisted by 3/4 plywood to get across the carpet. I've used this guy before, all technique...... This time he brought a kid to help, the two of them had it up three stairs and inside the house without breaking a sweat. Get help, plan the move in great detail, never risk crushing a finger or worst. |
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You and three buds will have no problem moving it.
Up the two steps; wrap it in a furniture moving pad, lay a large piece of plywood up the stairs to prevent the stair edge and threashold from damaging the safe due to their small contact point, tip the safe onto the wood and push the safe up the wood until it tips up to floor level then drag it in. You only need to lay the safe down if the two steps are together. If you have one step then a landing big enough for the safe then another step; leave the safe upright, tip it back, rock/walk if forward till it's partway up the step, then lift/tilt the back to bring it up to level and drag it in. Move it though the house; put another furniture pad under it (stand it back up for easier movement) and drag it though the house. Over tile, wood, carpet, you'll be fine. If you have far to go over carpet the weight of the safe will form a 'wave' of streched carpet in front of it. With no heavy furniture in the room the streched carpet will settle back out by itself right away. Lots of heavy furniture means you'll have to kick the back, lifting furniture as you go. That's easy too. Once in place I'm going to recommend you remove the carpet and pad before bolting to the floor. Your safe will alway have a tiny bit of rock to it if you don't. Put the carpet and pad aside and a carpet guy can seam it in place for about $80 when you sell the house or move the safe. Bare floor underneath the safe will also allow you to shim it with pennies to account for any irregularties in the floor and make sure the door doesn't swing open or closed due to slope of the floor. Before you cut the carpet make an outline of the safe with painters tape and cut the carpet about 1/2" smaller then the safe outline. That'll allow you to roll and tuck the carpet edge for a finished look. You can also trim off the baseboard allowing the safe to set flush with the wall for good looks. Run power to the safe before you put it in place. The easiest way is to run an extension cord from a near by outlet to the safe. Tuck the cord under the baseboard for a finished look. Cut off the receptical end of the cord and pass it into the safe before you put the safe in its final position. Then either reattach the plug end with wire nuts or just buy a replacement plug end from the hardware store. My safe is about 900#'s also and I've move it 5 times (in/out, in/out, in) using the above methods and I wouldn't steer you wrong. Four guys total is great, five is a waste, three will be enough, two won't cut it. Hope this helps. |
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You and three buds will have no problem moving it. Up the two steps; wrap it in a furniture moving pad, lay a large piece of plywood up the stairs to prevent the stair edge and threashold from damaging the safe due to their small contact point, tip the safe onto the wood and push the safe up the wood until it tips up to floor level then drag it in. You only need to lay the safe down if the two steps are together. If you have one step then a landing big enough for the safe then another step; leave the safe upright, tip it back, rock/walk if forward till it's partway up the step, then lift/tilt the back to bring it up to level and drag it in. Move it though the house; put another furniture pad under it (stand it back up for easier movement) and drag it though the house. Over tile, wood, carpet, you'll be fine. If you have far to go over carpet the weight of the safe will form a 'wave' of streched carpet in front of it. With no heavy furniture in the room the streched carpet will settle back out by itself right away. Lots of heavy furniture means you'll have to kick the back, lifting furniture as you go. That's easy too. Once in place I'm going to recommend you remove the carpet and pad before bolting to the floor. Your safe will alway have a tiny bit of rock to it if you don't. Put the carpet and pad aside and a carpet guy can seam it in place for about $80 when you sell the house or move the safe. Bare floor underneath the safe will also allow you to shim it with pennies to account for any irregularties in the floor and make sure the door doesn't swing open or closed due to slope of the floor. Before you cut the carpet make an outline of the safe with painters tape and cut the carpet about 1/2" smaller then the safe outline. That'll allow you to roll and tuck the carpet edge for a finished look. You can also trim off the baseboard allowing the safe to set flush with the wall for good looks. Run power to the safe before you put it in place. The easiest way is to run an extension cord from a near by outlet to the safe. Tuck the cord under the baseboard for a finished look. Cut off the receptical end of the cord and pass it into the safe before you put the safe in its final position. Then either reattach the plug end with wire nuts or just buy a replacement plug end from the hardware store. My safe is about 900#'s also and I've move it 5 times (in/out, in/out, in) using the above methods and I wouldn't steer you wrong. Four guys total is great, five is a waste, three will be enough, two won't cut it. Hope this helps. Two will get it done me and my 110lb gf moved mine. Im not a big guy either 180lb 5'9" |
| My safe only weights about 400 lbs. My GF and I moved it up 16 steps. I rocked it alternately from side to side as my GF placed scape pieces of 2x6 under the raised side. When the safe was even with the next step, I would slide it onto that higher step and repeat the procedure until we reached the top. I can see using that method with 3 or 4 guys to go up 2 steps with a 1,000 lb safe, then using the same method to place it on a dolly to move all over the house ( 'hope it has a slab floor). |
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Two will get it done me and my 110lb gf moved mine. Im not a big guy either 180lb 5'9" Technique, tips, weight of your safe? Any useful information to add??? The shipping label said it weighed 933lbs. The safe is the Patriot Collector model. I did pretty much what you said except after getting the safe up the steps I layed it on a dolly and pushed it to the location. 
Once where I wanted it I just tilted it on the back corner, pulled the dolly out, and me and the gf then slowly lowered it till it layed on its bottom. |
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