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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Sturdy Pic Request (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 2/14/2010 6:36:09 PM EDT
| I am getting close to buying a safe and I am thinking hard about a Sturdy firelined 3627. I have come to that decision based upon the thickness of them and the good reviews everyone has on them. I was wanting to some better pics than the website and especially if anyone has done any add ons or anything to them. So lets see them!! Inside pics would be much appriciated. Thanks |
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My 3627 is not firelined. I have two different fire departments within .5 mile. That means nothing. Kiss your stuff goodbye in a fire. MMMMhhhmmmmm..... are you a firefighter or a ROTC/OCS student? I had intentions of buying a Sturdy firelined safe for my overflow (I have a Fort Knox as well), but Sturdy asked some questions about my home structure and municipality and suggested I didn't really need a fire safe. They test their safes with fire departments in actual training burns. Call 'em up. Pull those outriggers back in. |
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My 3627 is not firelined. I have two different fire departments within .5 mile. That means nothing. Kiss your stuff goodbye in a fire. MMMMhhhmmmmm..... are you a firefighter or a ROTC/OCS student? I had intentions of buying a Sturdy firelined safe for my overflow (I have a Fort Knox as well), but Sturdy asked some questions about my home structure and municipality and suggested I didn't really need a fire safe. They test their safes with fire departments in actual training burns. Call 'em up. Pull those outriggers back in. Well typically a fire in your home will occour when nobody is home and reach ~1100 degrees before the time that someone notices it. Responce time from that phone call will probably be only a couple minutes, and then you have an alotted amount of time until the fire is actually put out. The first house I lived in had a fire department a mile away - it burned to the damn ground, and just about nothing inside of it was left. But I know nothing... Carry on. |
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My 3627 is not firelined. I have two different fire departments within .5 mile. That means nothing. Kiss your stuff goodbye in a fire. MMMMhhhmmmmm..... are you a firefighter or a ROTC/OCS student? I had intentions of buying a Sturdy firelined safe for my overflow (I have a Fort Knox as well), but Sturdy asked some questions about my home structure and municipality and suggested I didn't really need a fire safe. They test their safes with fire departments in actual training burns. Call 'em up. Pull those outriggers back in. Well typically a fire in your home will occour when nobody is home and reach ~1100 degrees before the time that someone notices it. Responce time from that phone call will probably be only a couple minutes, and then you have an alotted amount of time until the fire is actually put out. The first house I lived in had a fire department a mile away - it burned to the damn ground, and just about nothing inside of it was left. But I know nothing... Carry on. Put one of these in, it speeds up the process: 
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He is pretty much correct from what I have seen from experience. It doesn't make sense to pay good money for something that is not firelined, and only built with mediocre construction. Alot of people have a false sense of security when it comes to fire protection. Thinking your ok with the fire department within .5 mile of you is not a realistic thought.
STURDY SEEMS TO MAKE A SECURE SAFE, BUT i RECOMMEND GOING WITH THE FIRE RATED ONES. |
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He is pretty much correct from what I have seen from experience. It doesn't make sense to pay good money for something that is not firelined, and only built with mediocre construction. Alot of people have a false sense of security when it comes to fire protection. Thinking your ok with the fire department within .5 mile of you is not a realistic thought. I have seen a sturdy safe in person. All the things I saw on it that made me nervous about the security level are things I can see on these pics you guys have been posting of them in here the last few weeks as well. Like what for example? I have not seen one in person yet. |
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He is pretty much correct from what I have seen from experience. It doesn't make sense to pay good money for something that is not firelined, and only built with mediocre construction. Alot of people have a false sense of security when it comes to fire protection. Thinking your ok with the fire department within .5 mile of you is not a realistic thought. I have seen a sturdy safe in person. All the things I saw on it that made me nervous about the security level are things I can see on these pics you guys have been posting of them in here the last few weeks as well. I too am very curious about this as well. I have been watching the threads and I have not seen you say anything nice about Sturdy. Terry seems to think very highly of his "safes" but what is your evidence that they are not all they are cracked up to be? |
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He is pretty much correct from what I have seen from experience. It doesn't make sense to pay good money for something that is not firelined, and only built with mediocre construction. Alot of people have a false sense of security when it comes to fire protection. Thinking your ok with the fire department within .5 mile of you is not a realistic thought. I have seen a sturdy safe in person. All the things I saw on it that made me nervous about the security level are things I can see on these pics you guys have been posting of them in here the last few weeks as well. I too am very curious about this as well. I have been watching the threads and I have not seen you say anything nice about Sturdy. Terry seems to think very highly of his "safes" but what is your evidence that they are not all they are cracked up to be? My thoughts exactly. I don't see any trash talk about Sturdy being sub standard except for this. I wan to know in what way the 12 gauge amsec is more secure. |
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He is pretty much correct from what I have seen from experience. It doesn't make sense to pay good money for something that is not firelined, and only built with mediocre construction. Alot of people have a false sense of security when it comes to fire protection. Thinking your ok with the fire department within .5 mile of you is not a realistic thought. I have seen a sturdy safe in person. All the things I saw on it that made me nervous about the security level are things I can see on these pics you guys have been posting of them in here the last few weeks as well. What makes you nervous about a Sturdy Safe?I'm just trying to get an idea about which safe is best for me.I have 2-3000 to spend.Thanks |
| Sturdy is one of the best safes you can buy in that price range. I don't sale safes or own a Sturdy Safe yet but I have done a lot of research. Sturdy seems to be the best bang for the buck and their fire lined safes are really fire lined not Sheetrock. Plus they are made from 8 or 7 gauge depending on the model. That beats the hell out of some of the 12 gauge steel models that get recommend. |
| They do have fire protection. Fire Lining . You can get a 32x24x60 with a fire lining delivered for $2149 with 8 gauge steel. I can't find anything that is as well made for anywhere near that price. |
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Summit Rainier 23 is Fire Lined for 75 minutes, 60"x30"x22", has 3/16" body (7 gauge), 3/8" plate steel door, 1.25" Locking bolts on all 4 sides of the door, notched bolts, relocker, anti drill hard plate, 1/2" square door frame enforcement, a ceramic fire blanket in the ceiling, continously welded body, 3/16" boltwork hardware in the door, Group II S&G dial lock, over cam mechanism, 7 different texture exterior finishes to choose from, 3 different interior fabric colors to choose from, 4 different interior configurations to choose from, 2 standard handle finishes to choose from, and that safe retails in a textured finish for $1,950.00!
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Summit Rainier 23 is Fire Lined for 75 minutes, 60"x30"x22", has 3/16" body (7 gauge), 3/8" plate steel door, 1.25" Locking bolts on all 4 sides of the door, notched bolts, relocker, anti drill hard plate, 1/2" square door frame enforcement, a ceramic fire blanket in the ceiling, continously welded body, 3/16" boltwork hardware in the door, Group II S&G dial lock, over cam mechanism, 7 different texture exterior finishes to choose from, 3 different interior fabric colors to choose from, 4 different interior configurations to choose from, 2 standard handle finishes to choose from, and we sell that safe in a textured finish for $1,950.00! In my opinion this would be a much more secure safe with fire protection for less money. Is that a shipped price? The only difference I see in your description is extra bolts on the top and bottom of the door. All the other options are on the Sturdy along with a very sturdy frame and a 1/2 inch thick door. |
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1. I never said a 12 gauge amsec is more secure, nor did I recommend a 12 gauge amsec over a sturdy anywhere on here. 2. First thing I see in that pic right here on the page is the stitch welded door surround. So the piece that holds the bolts in place is not continously welded onto the door plate. 3. The rear lock bolts are fixed, and spaced so far out on the back door edge, that if you cut the hinges, you could get a pry tool on the back of the door because of the gap left in it. None of the door support material runs into the safe door area to create leverage on the bolts either. The space them out so far so you can open and close the door, and still clear the frame on the swing. 4. No top bolts on the door, no bottom bolts on the door, 5. The safes dont have an overcam, so they aren't punch attack resistant from the side of the case. 6. You spend all that money and no fire protection. http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f80/Snopczynski/Retractables.jpg http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f80/Snopczynski/FixedBolts.jpg There is no frame reinforcement in a Sturdy safe. The frame is formed with an extra bend using a single piece of steel for the side and side frame. Frame Detail. The weld you are seeing is where the bottom and top connect to the sides. I do not see how you could ever get a pry bar in the sides of the Sturdy safe, their door gap is so small, the smallest I have seen. All the other safes have a huge gap no matter the price point that they need frame reinforcement to help against a pry attack. |
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Summit Rainier 23 is Fire Lined for 75 minutes, 60"x30"x22", has 3/16" body (7 gauge), 3/8" plate steel door, 1.25" Locking bolts on all 4 sides of the door, notched bolts, relocker, anti drill hard plate, 1/2" square door frame enforcement, a ceramic fire blanket in the ceiling, continously welded body, 3/16" boltwork hardware in the door, Group II S&G dial lock, over cam mechanism, 7 different texture exterior finishes to choose from, 3 different interior fabric colors to choose from, 4 different interior configurations to choose from, 2 standard handle finishes to choose from, and we sell that safe in a textured finish for $1,950.00! In my opinion this would be a much more secure safe with fire protection for less money. Is that a shipped price? The only difference I see in your description is extra bolts on the top and bottom of the door. All the other options are on the Sturdy along with a very sturdy frame and a 1/2 inch thick door. That is a FOB Price. However, I dont see a continously welded door on the sturdy. There is a thinner steel body on the sturdy (8 gauge). No notched bolts on the sturdy. No overcam on the sturdy. The sturdy door is not 3/8" thick either (it is thinner 1/4" and 5/16"). The sturdy also uses a rope seal on the door for fire instead of an expanding palusol seal like the summit. The sturdy does not have a 1/2" square steel reinforcement on the door. The locking bolts rest on a piece of bent around metal that the body is made of (similar to champions). That looks like a nice safe, do you have a link? Did you look at the link I posted? 7 gauge is what is standard in that price I posted. The website shows the frame detail on how the bolts lock up. I don't think you looked or you would not just bash to for the sake of trying to make your point. Continously welded door, 1/2" steel reinforcement? Are you looking? Door The door on the Sturdy is reinforced and very thick with a sturdy lock design using Sargent And Greenleaf Premium Grade Group II Combination. The body is made of 7 gauge steel and that has a 12 bend unibody construction and you compare it to a cheap Champion safe with a 12 gauge unibody. All I can say is that from what I see there is not any real difference except of some bolts on the top and bottom of the door. |
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Quoted: However, I dont see a continously welded door on the sturdy. There is a thinner steel body on the sturdy (8 gauge). No notched bolts on the sturdy. No overcam on the sturdy. The sturdy door is not 3/8" thick either (it is thinner 1/4" and 5/16"). The sturdy also uses a rope seal on the door for fire instead of an expanding palusol seal like the summit. The sturdy does not have a 1/2" square steel reinforcement on the door frame. The locking bolts rest on a piece of bent around metal that the body is made of (similar to champions). The sturdy door is also not a 1/2" thick. Just mic'd my Sturdy for the hell of it. Sturdy's body is 7ga (0.18"). The door is indeed a 5/16" (0.31") not 3/8" as you note. As for the weakness of the pry attack on the hinge side of a Sturdy - I've seen you bring up the image showing the bolts before. True there is some gap on the right fixed bolts and frame - however, I just mic'd the difference - there is a 5mm gap between my bolts and door frame on the hinge side (1mm on the opening side) The depth gap from the door to outside of the body is 21mm. Even if you cut off the hinges on the right hand side - which would be time consuming - I don't know that there'd be much room there still to get a pry bar in. Not saying it's not possible, just wondering how much time and effort one would have to invest in getting through the hinges and then attacking that side of the door. Also, the bolts on the Sturdy extend a lot further than other safes that I've looked at. If you could get a prybar in, you'd have to break the welds with force or you'd need to pry the door out an awfully long way to get past the bolts. I'd love to see video of someone trying it  I wouldn't want to attempt it. Sturdy is a good value for the money IMO if you don't want to spend a lot and your other choices in that price range are some of the 10 or 12 ga. models. Once you get into the $3k and over category, I'd probably go with a big Summit or Ft. Knox. It's all relative to budget. |
| IMHO, any "saleperson" that has to talk about someone else's product more than theres and how this is wrong and I would do this different, is just that, second best and we all know what that is. I dont care that you have this safe for this much or not, just try not to sell your product by bashing someone else. I would really like to get your "Expert" opinion and hear you say something good about the Sturdy, I dare you to. This is the exact reason I want to buy a Sturdy in the first place, they dont seem to bash someone else to get a sale, they inform you about there safes and where they see the "value" in doing things the way they do. I havent ever even talked to someone at Sturdy (Yet) but I hear nothing but good things except from people like yourself that run them down, just to try and convince people that the weak safes that you can make the most money on is the one you need to buy. I challenge you to say that the Sturdy is strong in this area?? Thank you |
You're all arguing about tin cans.... 
Really.... If it's an RSC it doesn't matter much. Any real effort with tools is going to get in. Attacking the door is silly if you've got a cheap angle grinder. Focus on hiding it, securing it, and restricting access to it (like deep in a narrow closet or something). And at least hide the cut-off wheels on your angle grinder in the garage. |
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IMHO, any "saleperson" that has to talk about someone else's product more than theres and how this is wrong and I would do this different, is just that, second best and we all know what that is. I dont care that you have this safe for this much or not, just try not to sell your product by bashing someone else. I would really like to get your "Expert" opinion and hear you say something good about the Sturdy, I dare you to. This is the exact reason I want to buy a Sturdy in the first place, they dont seem to bash someone else to get a sale, they inform you about there safes and where they see the "value" in doing things the way they do. I havent ever even talked to someone at Sturdy (Yet) but I hear nothing but good things except from people like yourself that run them down, just to try and convince people that the weak safes that you can make the most money on is the one you need to buy. I challenge you to say that the Sturdy is strong in this area?? Thank you Your off base here.....Snopczynski is not trying to sell you (or anyone on here) safes, people ask for advice/opinions and he as well as others give their opinions. Take the advice/opinions for what its worth. I for one like to hear from an professional instead of a internet commando trying to justify his latest purchase. If you dont agree with what someone is telling you, do the research and tell us why the they are wrong or why you think they are wrong. The whole "I dare you to say something good about Strudy" is pretty lame 
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However, I dont see a continously welded door on the sturdy. There is a thinner steel body on the sturdy (8 gauge). No notched bolts on the sturdy. No overcam on the sturdy. The sturdy door is not 3/8" thick either (it is thinner 1/4" and 5/16"). The sturdy also uses a rope seal on the door for fire instead of an expanding palusol seal like the summit. The sturdy does not have a 1/2" square steel reinforcement on the door frame. The locking bolts rest on a piece of bent around metal that the body is made of (similar to champions). The sturdy door is also not a 1/2" thick. Just mic'd my Sturdy for the hell of it. Sturdy's body is 7ga (0.18"). The door is indeed a 5/16" (0.31") not 3/8" as you note. As for the weakness of the pry attack on the hinge side of a Sturdy - I've seen you bring up the image showing the bolts before. True there is some gap on the right fixed bolts and frame - however, I just mic'd the difference - there is a 5mm gap between my bolts and door frame on the hinge side (1mm on the opening side) The depth gap from the door to outside of the body is 21mm. Even if you cut off the hinges on the right hand side - which would be time consuming - I don't know that there'd be much room there still to get a pry bar in. Not saying it's not possible, just wondering how much time and effort one would have to invest in getting through the hinges and then attacking that side of the door. Also, the bolts on the Sturdy extend a lot further than other safes that I've looked at. If you could get a prybar in, you'd have to break the welds with force or you'd need to pry the door out an awfully long way to get past the bolts. I'd love to see video of someone trying it I wouldn't want to attempt it. Sturdy is a good value for the money IMO if you don't want to spend a lot and your other choices in that price range are some of the 10 or 12 ga. models. Once you get into the $3k and over category, I'd probably go with a big Summit or Ft. Knox. It's all relative to budget.
Ive never thought of this before but an angle grinder to the door gap would be an easy way for a pry bar to get started - it would work on almost any RSC and only take a few seconds to cut a groove. |
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Let me add a comment to .5 mile statement. The local fire department is located at the end of my street - literally 800 feet away. yet a house one street over caught fire in the middle of the day and was a complete total. Fire got so hot, it melted the tailight lenses in the fire truck. So while it's nice to have the fire department close, it may not mean a thing, especially as pointed out, if no one's home.
As for Snopczynski, his responses in several threads have been very knowledgeable, and even though I don't know him, I credit him having far more information on the topic than the average person. |
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I know how the body is made in a sturdy. That door isn't unpryable. There are numerous ways to get a tool in there. I'd like to see that. I normally just lurk this forum, but if you provide the safe I will open it. I would be willing to bet the cost of the safe vs 5 min open time even. All you have to do is have it delivered to my local ambulance district attn: extrication team, I have been wanting to test our new toys on something hard |
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I know how the body is made in a sturdy. That door isn't unpryable. There are numerous ways to get a tool in there. I'd like to see that. I normally just lurk this forum, but if you provide the safe I will open it. I would be willing to bet the cost of the safe vs 5 min open time even. All you have to do is have it delivered to my local ambulance district attn: extrication team, I have been wanting to test our new toys on something hard He said "unpryable" so unless you're talking about new pry bars, crow-bars, and sledehammers, I don't think you'd really be helping any. IMHO, no RSC is unpryable. With the right tools, enough time, and enough man-power any RSC would be pryable. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I know how the body is made in a sturdy. That door isn't unpryable. There are numerous ways to get a tool in there. I'd like to see that. I normally just lurk this forum, but if you provide the safe I will open it. I would be willing to bet the cost of the safe vs 5 min open time even. All you have to do is have it delivered to my local ambulance district attn: extrication team, I have been wanting to test our new toys on something hard It's not about how fast a professional with big toys can open one, because we know they can open them fast. Hell, even the real safes fail pretty quickly when professionals are involved. It's about how long it takes your average teenage thieves, gangbangers or junkies to open it. |
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We had a pleasant conversation with 30yr old salesmen Jeff Nope, AkA "Snopczynski" over the phone today.
After learning more about our safes, he agreed he was making false statements about us and removed them off all forums he has ever posted on. We appreciate his actions, and his contributions to the forums. Sturdy Safes are as secure as we claim they are, so no pry-bar or hinge attack will work. Thank you to all who spread the good word about us, because we (and our customers) don’t spend a lot of money on advertising. Take care all! |
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Your welcome Terri, those videos were great.
I would say that even as a safe person, someone who sees safes everyday, you cant see everything in them without knowing the manufacturing process. Those welds on the door that it has look like stitch welding, but its full penetration into plate steel thats heavy gauge on the door and the locking bolt housings. Terri was telling me that there are still people on youtube that didn't believe what they saw in his video with the pry test. If you take a 6' pry bar and yank it on a door like that, it is usually gonna bend that thing like a soft shell taco. He barely had any give in the frame of the door at all too. These tests were legitimate tests, they showed a phenomenal amount of pry protection. |
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BTW for OP - link to pics thread of my 4824-6 that I got in January: http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=46&t=301504 |
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The safe in the video has a 7 gauge body and 5/16" door, with no extra options we sell added to it. We haven't been making much 8 gauge bodies and 1/4" doors lately. People are not as interested in buying them as much as the 7 gauge.
Someone asked where the links to our videos were... the most recent ones I reloaded are below if you need to find them easier: Sturdy Deadbolt Vs. 9lb. Sledge Hammer Sturdy Safe Door Vs. 10000lb. Forklift Sturdy Safe Door With Deadbolts Removed Vs. Large Prybar |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Sturdy Pic Request (Page 1 of 2)
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