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Posted: 10/8/2012 10:25:53 AM EDT
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So in pursuit of a better trigger for my AXR I decided to spend a little money and a little time on the mill. First of all, I used to feel that I had an OK trigger in my gun. I had it set up well, used some dry teflon lube on the parts that would have friction and it was ok for the most part. But still it was heavy so I started trying things.
First thing I did was to pull the sear/takedown spring out of the hammer pack and I bent the strait leg about 1/2-2/3 of the way up the leg at about a 30° angle. This didn't do a ton for the trigger pull weight, but it did do something interesting. I don't know if it was dumb luck or what, but when you pull the trigger it was lighter up to the point that the hammer is released. At that point it hits that angled bit and makes the pull heavier. Kind of a nice overtravel notification if you will. I did this 2yrs ago and left the hammer pack pretty much alone. Of note is that the hammer pack had 1 hammer spring removed as well. with 2 in there it will puncture commercial primers and sometimes will with military primers. Next thing I did was order up a NEU-Trigger off the Gunbroker 2 weeks ago. I will be honest here in saying that I thought it was the trigger tamer knock off when I ordered it. I was tired and such. When I saw what it was I was "WTF? I just spend $30 on this thing?". Oh well, if it doesn't work its not the end of the world. Fast forward to last saturday, I get the sucker in the mail. In about 3min after opening the package it was installed. I must say that this little pieces of stainless was worth every penny. Waaaay smother trigger pull and it lightened it up a bit. Installation is easy as pie So with a fire lit under my butt, I got a small chunk of 0.250" x 1" aluminum bar and set to work back engineering the factory takedown tang slash trigger tamer. I managed to do this in a matter of 2 or 3 hrs. I triple checked my measurements as I only had enough bar to do 1 part (got the aluminum from a friend so I didn't have to go buy 5ft) and then figured out roughly where I wanted the spring hook to be. Had to go and buy a couple drill bits, then I set to work on the mill. Milling this sucker took about 45min with a lot of taking my time with set up, then not taking my time with the milling  . My goal was to do this as cheap as I could, because if it cost more in tools to than to buy a trigger tamer off GB then it would be futile. But the drill bits only set me back $5 and I had a 1/8" 4 flute endmill. The endmill was far from ideal for this application, but I didn't want to go buy a new one so it would do. When I was done I was far from impressed in how the holes and slots looked from the machining but after checking it for function it worked just fine so I rolled with it (hence no pics ;) ). I rounded the edges on the belt sander and milled the angle on the back of the tang to match the original and I was gtg. One thing of note, here is that if you are going to get a trigger tamer, I would highly recommend putting it in before you install the neu-trigger. once the neu-trigger is installed it can be a pain to install a trigger tamer as you have to work around the neu-trigger. Also, if you don't get the leg of the sear spring on the secondary/safety sear in the right spot where it is supposed to go, you can end up with a gun that slamfires. Not a fun thing to have happen. Its easy to correct, but is definitely something that you should triple check before heading out to test fire.
With all this done to the hammer pack I will say that the trigger pull is amazing to say the least. I took it and measured it with a digital scale multiple times and it is consistently breaking at a very smooth 5.45lbs ±0.10lbs. The pull is a bit long still. This is in part due to the Neu-trigger adding some material to the front of the sear as well as not sitting absolutely flat against the surface. Plus the fact that all the parts in the hammer pack are made from injection molded glass filled nylon or whatever, absolute match grade preciseness is not really the name of the game. Next on my agenda is to create some sort of overtravel stop so that its a bit more predictable. Not sure exactly how I am going to attack this yet, but I have some ideas. In the a trigger tamer and a neu-trigger are definitely worth the $$$ (even though I made my own TT). |
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yeah, but what it does is great though. That said, I made my own . Already working on a design for an overtravel stop that should be pretty sweet as well.I wouldn't say this too loud...he might show up and threaten to sue you for copyright violation... Yeah, that was fun last time he came in here and did that. D-nozzle. 
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I'm glad you like the Neu-trigger. Just about anything else you do to the hammer group will have a negative impact on the inner workings. Unless you plan to snipe with the AUG, there really isn't a reason to go any lighter on the trigger pull weight. Besides that, the gun has accuracy limitations beyond the trigger.
On my personal STG I shaved off the rear 1/3 of the hammer spur and installed a trigger stop just beyond hammer drop. As you can imagine, the further you pull the trigger back the more force is stored in the spring and more effort is required to release the hammer. With the Neu-trigger and those two mods, mine breaks at 5.5# which is perfect for me. |
| I will have to disagree on the whole accuracy thing. I managed a 3/4" group of 4 or 5 shots at 100yds with my AXR. The thing hates 55gr bullets, but anything 60gr and up are great in it. But I will say, 5.5lbs and an over travel stop are the cats pajamas with this rife. I might nip a little off the hammer spur to shorten the pull a little, but I don't really feel like pushing it, especially if I can't get a replacement hammer too easily, and I really don't want to have to buy a new hammer pack if I screw up. But heck, knocking a few thou off the back on the mill might not hurt |
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This when you want a strong spring holding the sear forward. If you lighten the spring and shorten the hammer spur, look out! The hammer will want to drop when you may not want it to.
Considering the hammer is going to be tough to replace if you botch the job, I wouldn't recommend doing this. |
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I got a "special green hammer pack" from "someone" and after careful study about a week ago I took a spare pack that I have and did a job on it myself. After a few careful mins I had it modded the same way but I still had the over travel that I had to work out. I held the pack in hand for 2 nights while watching TV, I had about 5 ideas on how to put in a over travel stop in.
I took a drive out to ACE and after about an hour of looking through their stock of hardware I came up with an adjustable stop. I did this to my spare pack two days ago. I told my friend about the stop that I came up with and he wanted me to do his. I did it today during my lunch break. Now as soon as the hammer breaks the trigger is at full stop. If we want to adjust them back it would take a min or less. I am happy to say that they both work like charms. I even did alot of drop test from about 2 and 3' to see if they popped the hammer. Nope, so far they are safe. So far. The hammer mod it so sweet and I can't believe I didn't pick up on what was done to my pack a few years ago by someone that I FULLY TRUST that was/is in the business. I just knew it was so sweet and never really thought of it. Other than the built in travel stop that is longer in my green pack than the stops in the Jenns black pack and the spare black pack that I currently have. I figure that this mod should void my warranty on the pack it self and that is why I will not mod the one pack that I have left. You should not mod anything without knowing full well that you could void your warranty and may put someones life in danger. Had to be said as I don't want someone getting any ideas and trying something like this and getting hurt or worse. 
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