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Posted: 6/26/2011 11:24:12 AM EDT
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Due to the bullpup's general design, taclight options aren't as numerous as w/an AR or other std-pattern rifle.
I've tried both of the most usual ways (tapeswitch on VFG or support-side thumb-activated) and while neither is ideal, both have their advantages & disadvantages. For the ease of discussion, "thumb-activated" (or TA) will refer to any mounting option where the thumb (or finger) of the support hand activates the light and "VFG" is self-expanatory. TA advantages: Less bbl shadow, less likely to have a NLD (negligent light dischange), more lights to choose from, no tapeswitch to fail/snag, can be much less expensive (depending upon light/mount combo used), constant-on (if desired) is quick/easy to do. TA disadvantages: Less compactness w/the bbl removed (if using a setup like the one shown below), more difficult to do fast momentary-on's, less rugged (ie: weapons-grade lights/mounts can be *very* rugged but IMHO a light out on a 9" accessory rail is more susceptible to impacts while manuevering around doors/barricades and being so far out increases impact leverage on the rail itself), can weigh more, failure of tailcap clicky switch results in DOA light, not as well balanced w/the weight out-front. VFG advantages: Easier to do momentary-on's, can be more rugged (ie: lights w/integral mounts like the Streamlight TLR-1 that attaches directly to a rail), restores compactness w/bbl removed, can weigh less, constant-on switch still available in case of tapeswitch failure, better balanced w/taclight weight more centered. VFG disadvantages: Failure of tapeswitch requires trigger finger to activate light's constant-on (on the TLR-1s setup shown below), fewer light choices w/integral mount, more bbl shadow, easier to have a NLD, length of tapeswitch cable can limit location options. There are other location/setup options available depending upon the rail being used but these two are probably the most common. So, let's discuss the various pros/cons of different lights & setups! Tomac STG w/Streamlight TLR-1s: 
STG w/Fenix TK20 on 9" accessory rail & Elzetta ZORM mount: 
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Great points as usual tomac.
I am currently running 2 Jetbeam usa III R5s. One on an AUG a3 and one on a FAL. Whenever possible I try to avoid using a pressure pad. I seem to get the wires caught on stuff or pushed up against super hot barrels and have them melt. Rule of thumb, for me if the gun has a verticle grip I put the light at 9 oclock (i'm left handed) and hit the pend cap with my right thumb. For a FAL, where I don't have a verticle grip, I mounted the ligth at about 10 oclock and mounted a pressure pad on a super short leash behind the light. Jetbeams are compatible with surefire pads, which was handy because I had one more or less permanently bonded to the handguard. Her is a review of the light itself I posted up on another site: I spent the weekend teaching a patrol rifle course in Yakima. The light was subjected to 3 days of blown dirt. The light was subjected to 1000 recoil impacts, including 2 strings of 100 in approximately 2 minutes. This generates heat and near frequent vibration, forward and backward. Saturday night we did our night shooting. We had steal targets (roughly 8.5 by 11) at 50, 70 and 100 yards on a range. The range was probably 20 yards wide. The 355 lumen light was awesome. All targets were clearly visible. Within the hotspot of the light I could make out fine detail. There was also enough spill that I could see the full width of the range well enough to find and identify targets. It was significantly brighter than surefire lights that were 3x the cost. Use: A+ Minor complaints: the strike bezel is shiny, would like it to be matte. Would also like the vendor to answer their phone. Conclusion: This system is small, bright, and represents a good performance/price point. The light got banged around, slammed into car doors, cover, subjected to light but significant amounts of recoil. My conclusion is that this light is good to go, at least for a 5.56 rifle. I’ll run it on a shotgun and 308 rifle next and report back. |
| Another thing I like about this setup, is that it stays with the barrel (I'm using the aug rail system that attaches to the barrel). When I remove the barrel the light comes with it. So my 16 inch barrel is set up with a 355 lumen light. I can switch it between rifle recievers and it will be good to go wherever it ends up. |
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Nice! Got any pics of your setup?
My only concerns w/using a 355 lumen light is possibly being too bright for indoors use (nice thing about the Fenix setup, switch between 240 & 45 lumens w/just a slight twist of the bezel). I agree w/you about tapeswitch cables. Fortunately, the cable on the TLR-1s setup above is just about the perfect length for use on the STG w/little leftover length to worry about, plus it can be run both over or under the TLR-1s to avoid snags/heat. Thx for the input!... Tomac |
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http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo157/Furyataurus/msar1.jpg This has worked well for me during the night shoots I went to. 
Streamlight has a really nice little 180 lumen light, ProTac 2L that I have, that no one makes a mount for yet. 
My G2 is 120 lumens which isn't bad but could be better. How much range do you get out of the G2 at night and how do you activate it? (I don't see a tapeswitch, are you a lefty?) Tomac |
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Since I despise tape-switches with a hatred usually reserved for the FOX executives who cancelled Firefly, I've only tried self-contained rail-mounted units thus far. I had thought about getting the under-bbl rail unit that goes in place of the foregrip and then trying a M900 grip/light on one of mine, but that hasn't gotten beyond the thought stage so far (competing priorities and what-not  ). |
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Here are my two with completely different light set-ups. ETA: The modified Surefire G2 on the bottom picture puts out 600 lumens. The 200 lumen TLR1 in the top picture is more then enough but my 600 lumen Surefire just rocks. The 600 lumen lamp came from TNVC (Tactical Night Vision Co.) MadDog   
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Here are my two with completely different light set-ups. ETA: The modified Surefire G2 on the bottom picture puts out 600 lumens. The 200 lumen TLR1 in the top picture is more then enough but my 600 lumen Surefire just rocks. The 600 lumen lamp came from TNVC (Tactical Night Vision Co.) MadDog
http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/6033/762msare4005.jpg http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/6951/bullpuplight012.jpg Nice setup w/the RX30, having the TLR-1 in that location is sure to eliminate bbl shadow. I'm considering the same location for a TLR-1 on the wife's "lightweight" STG (all she has on her E4 optic rail is an Aimpoint Micro) but I think I'd need a higher mount to prevent the TLR-1 from blocking FOV. Does the TLR-1 block the RX30's FOV at all w/your setup? Thx!... Tomac |
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http://i371.photobucket.com/albums/oo157/Furyataurus/msar1.jpg This has worked well for me during the night shoots I went to.
Streamlight has a really nice little 180 lumen light, ProTac 2L that I have, that no one makes a mount for yet.
My G2 is 120 lumens which isn't bad but could be better. How much range do you get out of the G2 at night and how do you activate it? (I don't see a tapeswitch, are you a lefty?) Tomac It's a twist on/off and push button hold for on activated and 50yds max. I could barely see the black AR500 steel targets at night at 50yds but the brown IPSC targets weren't a problem.
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I am quite fond of Greg's set up. I went and bought a forward rail to mimic his setup. I have not decided on the actual light however.
What do you guys think about running your side rails with lights on them? I was using a 9 in rail and mounting my light on it. But after I read the post a while back where the guy hit his light on a wall and his hard points broke of the receiver, I took the longer side rail off. 
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Tomac: The TLR1 does not block the view through the RX30 as you can barely see the top of the light's body in the bottom of the RX30 lense. If you are going to put a TLR1 on the top rail and use an Aimpoint Micro, you will need "any" Aimpoint mount that gives you a lower 1/3 co-witness. With a lower 1/3 mount you will see completely "over" the top of the light. That is what I use on two of my other SBR's. MadDog 
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Tomac: The TLR1 does not block the view through the RX30 as you can barely see the top of the light's body in the bottom of the RX30 lense. If you are going to put a TLR1 on the top rail and use an Aimpoint Micro, you will need "any" Aimpoint mount that gives you a lower 1/3 co-witness. With a lower 1/3 mount you will see completely "over" the top of the light. That is what I use on two of my other SBR's. MadDog
http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/8915/skorpion015.jpg That was what I was thinking, thx!... Tomac |
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I am quite fond of Greg's set up. I went and bought a forward rail to mimic his setup. I have not decided on the actual light however. What do you guys think about running your side rails with lights on them? I was using a 9 in rail and mounting my light on it. But after I read the post a while back where the guy hit his light on a wall and his hard points broke of the receiver, I took the longer side rail off. http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/AKsnowHare/DSC_0009.jpg Now that you bring it up, I vaguely remember hearing about that some time ago (it's the only time it's happened, IIRC). This was the basis for part of my question in my OP. My STG w/the TLR-1 shown above has a 6" rail to utilize all 3 hard points (the 3" rail would also work but only uses 2 hard points). Hopefully impacts to the TLR-1 won't be of sufficient force or at an angle conducive to breaking the hard points. Tomac |
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I like a lot for CQB work where you don't have to worry about batteries failing and when a bigger dot is not an issue because it is being used in a close situation. For longer ranges like what I shoot in 3-gun matches then the Accupoint as well as various Aimpoints shine. MadDog
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I am quite fond of Greg's set up. I went and bought a forward rail to mimic his setup. I have not decided on the actual light however. What do you guys think about running your side rails with lights on them? I was using a 9 in rail and mounting my light on it. But after I read the post a while back where the guy hit his light on a wall and his hard points broke of the receiver, I took the longer side rail off. http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad50/AKsnowHare/DSC_0009.jpg Now that you bring it up, I vaguely remember hearing about that some time ago (it's the only time it's happened, IIRC). This was the basis for part of my question in my OP. My STG w/the TLR-1 shown above has a 6" rail to utilize all 3 hard points (the 3" rail would also work but only uses 2 hard points). Hopefully impacts to the TLR-1 won't be of sufficient force or at an angle conducive to breaking the hard points. Tomac I was using the 9" side rail from Promoted Pawn. I figured the extra length that allowed me to put my light where I wanted it also created more leverage on the receiver hard points. Since I didn't like where the 6" rail put my light I went the route of under the barrel. |
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http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s310/mcerock/IMG_5808.jpg Running mine on a barrel mount. Interesting! Where'd you get the bbl mount? Tomac |
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http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s310/mcerock/IMG_5808.jpg Running mine on a barrel mount. Interesting! Where'd you get the bbl mount? Tomac +1 that looks like a really clean solution! |
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It's a sure fire mount for AR 15. I modded my lever swith by flipping it 180 and grinding off the top thum lever. Push for momentary on. If you want constant on, flick it to the left. I hate tape switches. Barrel shadow is slight, but illumination is great for room clearing and threat ID. It's more important for me that the light goes dark if I drop my rifle slinged and transition to pistol.
I normally run with vfg stowed...Aussie style. With vfg down, I grip with thumb outboard to manipulate switch. 
Top view 
Different angle 
Complete rifle Also notice that I added a Steyr A1 charging handle...to bad FA doesn't work. Works better for me during malfunction drills than stock because it doesn't fold. So far this system works really well for me. |
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