I think I know the answer, but I've seen some mixed comments. I think I may have over swaged primer pockets on some 7.62 IMI brass. Primers seat rather easily. They don't fall out, but not much pressure needed to seat them. Scrap the brass?

need pics

Would be ok to use in bolt gun.

Not sure how to take a pic of a primer going in easily.

They would be used in a SW MP10 (semi auto).

A pic of the pocket should be adequate.

No photo needed. I would be more concerned with how that could have happened. What tool are you using?

This work?

Check the punch with a 1/10,000 micrometer.

It looks like it might be at the upper end of size.

Forming punch size is one of those PITA things that must be determined by trial and error because of metal spring back.

You could try polishing the punch with some 600 grit with the  punch in a drill chuck.

Check on the cost of a new punch first though.

just a pic to see if some how you massively over swaged the pocket

Brass is cheap.  Scrap it.  You don't want the problems it can cause.

Once upon a time I was at the range with one of my ARs and a primer blew out of a shell and ended up stuck between the snorkel and the charging handle.

Let me tell you, that was a stone bitch to unjam.  I ended up having to take the buffer tube off as part of the disassembly required to clear the jam.

Why?  Because with the bolt wedged about halfway back, separating the upper from the lower just wasn't going to happen any other way.

Try some different primers?  Winchester for me go in like butts. CCI and S&b "feel" tighter/larger

This is the tool you need:

https://ballistictools.com/store/reloading-products/three-gage-pack

Small and large primer pocket gages, plus a neck gage, are $30. The pocket gages are $12 individually, or $20 for both. I bought the set a couple years ago and use the primer pocket gages as part of my case inspection process. If the no-go fits, the case gets tossed. Can't say I've ever used the neck gage though. If I had it to do over again I'd just buy the $20 pocket gage set.

Were those from factory 308 Ammo you fired or once fired brass? They are showing some ejector marks.

Factory ammo once fired in my MP10. I think the gun is just a bit hard on brass. It's gone back to SW twice now for not cycling and then cycling too hard and I think too much pressure from a tight barrel. Gun shoots fine now and velocity is as expected.

Try this first.

Use your 45 degree chamfer tool to cut out the crimp on one instead of using the swedge tool. Then see how a primer fits in that pocket.

It could very well be that the pockets are shall we say loose,  and it has nothing to do with your swedge tool.

Personally. I have a punch (actually a worn Lee trimmer length rod) and if I feel a primer seated too easily I try to push it back out with just my fingers. If it doesn't move I leave it alone, mark it with sharpi then scrap it after it's fired.

Primers are not always a perfect sealed fit in the pocket. Just like the case neck expanding to seal the primer does too.

The only way a primer should come out of a casing is if the pocket expands basically destroying the fit.

Also. How does your swedging tool work on other crimped brass? If its ok then that's another sign it's the brass not the tool. Just because a primer is crimped that is no guarantee that the pocket is good.

In fact that's the reason they are crimped in the first place to keep them from coming out and jamming your weapon if for some reason the pocket swells.

Motor

Thanks. I'll check them again.

So if I set the die too low that won't cause it to over swage? I'm assuming if I push the swager too far in it will "over swage". Is that incorrect?

I've reloaded some of this brass already and didn't notice this issue so I'm assuming it's my bad rather than bad brass.

I don't know what tool you are using.

I have the old RCBS swedge kit. This kit is definitely made so that you bottom the swedging tool out solidly in the primer pocket.

There is no possible to over do it with this tool. That's why I asked you how does it work on other brands of brass and to "cut" the crimp out of one just for comparison.

Cutting the crimp out with the deburring cutter is nothing new. No it's not technically the best way but it works. I'm not suggesting you do this instead of swedging just to do one so you can see if the primer pocket still feels kinda loose even without swedging it.

Motor

They were easy to insert relative to what?  What is your comparison?  Do you have experience priming a lot of the same caliber with different brass?  When I first started priming certain batches of brass, in calibers I had not done previously, I could have sworn they were to easy to insert and that the brass was bad.  My test was to take the universal deprimer and try to deprime the case by hand.  Even with the seemingly smoothest and more easily inserted primers, they were not coming out with the greatest amount of manual pressure I could apply.

Considering most primer popping issues are caused by low pressure, not high, I would load a few of these and see how they work.  If you have an extensive set of drill bits, you could also start measuring the primer pockets before and after swaging and see how they compare to the standards.  Some companies formulate their brass in a manner which does not make it conducive to multiple loadings, so they may simply be out of spec after one firing.

If you have any WOLF Large Rifle primers, give those a try.
They fit tight!

I'm using the RCBS swager die. You have to set the depth of the die and the internal rod so it is kind of trial and error. I think I'll get the go no go gauges to make it easier or maybe check out what you are using.

Relative to my previous experience. I have a RCBS hand primer and while subjective I have a "feel" for how they normally seat. In other words, there is some resistance. Too much and I know I didn't get the crimp out. Too little and I start to wonder if I overdid the swage. I've also primed plenty of factory brass.

So here is an update.

I popped the primers on the 7 I initially primed and noted the issue. I used an old Lee Loader die to hand deprime these. 3 of them slid out with just hand pressure. The other 4 I had to hammer out. I then reprimed these and noted some slid in like butter with pretty much zero resistance. The other 4 were closer to normal.

I had about 80 cased left that hadn't been primed. I primed all of them. About 50 had more or less normal resistance. The rest ranged from "sort of easy" to seat to "way too easy" to seat. Almost like I wasn't sure if there was a primer in the tool.

I'm going to load the 50 that seemed more or less normal with a starting load. I also picked 5 of the "sort of easy" to load and 2 of the "way too easy".

I'll test the 50 first and note if anything odd happens. If I notice some blown primers with these I'm scrapping the lot.

If the 50 are fine I'm going to test the 5 that were "sort of easy" to prime and note any issues. If there are any I'll scrap those and the rest.

If those 5 seem to shoot normally, I'm going to test the 2 that were "way too easy" to prime. Even if the others were fine, I expect these to have blown primers so might just shoot one to confirm. If they actually shoot fine I'm going to be surprised and rethink all this.

Those ones in the pics don't look bad at all to me.

Anyone else?

ETA: I'm also thinking that it may have nothing to do with your chamfering but maybe out of spec PP's?

It's difficult to overdo swaging with the RCBS kit.  The spud is designed to sort of avoid that.

Others have asked how hard it felt to swage the cases you're concerned about.  That's a BIG point: in my experience with my own RCBS swager, there's plenty of resistance with pockets that aren't oversized.  How to tell if they're oversized? The spud can be used as a kind of gauge - if it goes in pretty far, that pocket may already be stretched.

DO get the go/no go primer pocket gauges.  Those guys have saved me a lot of time and effort.  They make it a no-brainer to decide a) am I sufficiently removing the crimp, b) is a case that "looks ok" really de-crimped, c) if a particular primer pocket is too loose already, etc.  If you can gauge questionable pockets and SEE that they're good or bad, you have fewer questions about your work, and spend less time messing with brass that belongs in the recycle bucket.

I've used the RCBS tool to swage many primer pockets. I think it would be impossible to enlarge a pocket using it unless it was screwed down grossly tight and I'm not even sure it would enlarge the pocket then. Many criticize this tool as being difficult, slow, and ineffective. Adjusting it properly to remove the crimp takes some trial and error work, but once done, it needn't be adjusted again. It works very well.

That's hard to describe. The cases definitely required some effort to swage. Maybe not quite as much as resizing. They also have a tendency to stick on the "spud" (didn't know that's what it was called) and it often takes a really good wack at the bottom to dislodge the case. Never had that issue with 5.56 ammo but then it's smaller too.

I don't know how you guys are using that kit. The rod supports the inner web while you drive the "spud" into the pocket.

I use RCBS case lube on mine. It makes it work really smoothly and greatly reduces the amount of force it takes to pull the spud out of the primer pockets. It also works to greatly improve the feel of the swedging.

When I do mine, it doesn't matter if large or small my "spud" is hitting the bottom of every pocket.  

Even after this I don't dare prime with my old style Lee Autoprime in fear of breaking it because the pockets are still tight. Occasionally I'll even prime large primer casings on the press.

Motor

That is similar to my process as well and I also use some lube to help remove the cases from the spud.

As others noted, a little lube helps A LOT with the RCBS swage die.  Or the Dillon Super Swage, for that matter.

Well, that was educational...

I took my loads to the range and was pretty impressed with the 168 Nosler custom comp. The pic below was at 100 yards on a somewhat windy day out of my M&P 10 using my range bag as a rest and not trying all that hard (was getting late and running out of time). It took me two shots to get the scope close enough and I only had 3 left at 40.0 gr Varget so the other 5 were 40.5 gr. Didn't think 0.5 gr would make much difference. Good enough for something that's not a precision rifle.

What really surprised me was what I felt were extremely loose primer pockets. I only loaded two of these but neither blew the primer. I also loaded 5 that were "somewhat" loose and those also didn't show any issues. I'll post a pic when I have a chance, but given how loose some were I really expect some sort of issue.



EDIT: that group measure 2.09" ES for the 8 shots.

Nice shooting. I'm not surprised you didn't have any primer issues. They simply back up against the bolt face, expand and seal.

If you have a de-capping only die you may even find that it takes more force to get them out than it did to put them in.

Motor

Here's a pic.

All were with 40.0 gr Varget in IMI cases and 168 gr Nosler custom comp BTHP.

Two on the left were the cases that seemed to seat primers fine. The middle two (red X) were ones I thought were a bit loose. The two on the right were seriously loose feeling.

I have a few cases that I didn't load thinking the primer pockets were too loose but now I'm not sure.

In the past I have set aside multi fired FC 223 brass people hate, that the primers went in super easy and loaded them up with my standard 25.0 of TAC and a 55 fmj, none fell out.