Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
Armory Sponsor
4/1/2017 10:08:45 PM EDT
I've got a Lee 6 cavity .452 200gr SWC mold that is a problem child. When pressure casting most bullets come out out of round. They are as wide as .455. Now that would be ok since a sizer could work it down to the correct size. What's not ok is that some of the bullets are .451 at their narrowest point. That's undersized for my barrel which cause serious leading.

I've already sent it back to Lee once. They say there's nothing wrong with it. Before I ship it back to them again, this time with a bunch of these jacked up bullets it made, is there any common mistakes in technique that could account for this issue.
4/1/2017 11:16:53 PM EDT
[#1]
I have that mold and love mine. Sounds like you got a bad one.

What alloy are you using?

I'm using soft lead mixed with a little bit of WW's.
4/2/2017 12:05:39 AM EDT
[#2]
You might be able to try adding a bit more antimony to the alloy. I think that expands some as it cools. eta Im a total casting noob so Im just kind of thinking out loud here.
4/2/2017 2:20:25 AM EDT
[#3]
Mold pre heated before you using it, and what temp are you running the lead.

Also, are you dam sure that you tooth brush cleaned (with cleaning agent) the cavities and mold before you used it , and not  over smoking the mold or using a release agent too much that your decreasing some of the cavities IDs way down instead.

Hence of the aluminum molds, once you get them clean, then you really only need a light smoking of the mold caivities, if any smoking at all.
On the spruce and pins, very light touch of either wax, or two stroke oil, and not so much that it gets into the cavities.


As for an ideal lead temp, once you slightly over fill the spruce plate top on a pre-heated mold on the fills, you should see the lead drop/start to crystallize in about 2 seconds.  If the lead is taking longer to set up, either you got the mold too hot/running the lead too hot instead.
4/2/2017 4:08:25 AM EDT
[#4]
Listen to Dano.

We had our very first experience with Lee 6 banger moulds Friday. My brother is the pour master and the mould is the .225" which has so much heat sink (small cavities and lots of aluminum) that it took him a while to figure it out but like Dano says it's all about heat.

We also used a 40 cal 6 banger for the first time and had the same problem you are having.

What we found is that you need to get the spure plate really hot so the lead does not slow down going though it. I was watching the pour hitting the side of the taper and going straight into the mould without any hesitation or build up. This is when we started getting good bullets.

We also enlarged the holes in the plate a few thousandths but I don't recommend this for a beginner.

Motor
4/2/2017 10:28:58 AM EDT
[#5]
I run my Lee molds hot and hold mold to the bottom of the pot, count to 3, release pour lever and move on to the next cavity.
4/2/2017 10:51:36 AM EDT
[#6]
Mr Lee has all the answer to fix there products.      MR Lee link  
Increasing mold diameterPosted by on 20 October 2011 01:34 PM
If you need the mold diameter of your cast bullets to be increased just slightly, there is a way to accomplish this at no cost.

Apply some lube to the mold blocks face, away from the bullet cavity. Place a small piece of cigarette paper or writing paper to the lubed block.

When casting the bullet, the diameter of the bullet will be increased by the paper thickness. You can actually go up to about .010 before you begin to see lead flashing appear. While the bullet will be slightly out of round, this very minimum amount will not effect accuracy or the manner in which the bullet travels through the forcing cone and barrel of your gun.
View Quote
 
4/2/2017 2:10:16 PM EDT
[#7]
Two things I'd check:

Are you SQUEEZING the handles together and HOLDING THEM TIGHT throughout the entire pour???

Are you using enough Tin in your alloy???

It is easy -- especially on a gang mold -- to hold the handles too loosely and get out of round and oversized bullets.  Seems like I have to relearn this lesson every time I start a new casting session.

Undersized is a different issue.  Either the "lead" or the mold are not up to temperature or the alloy is not consistent throughout a session.
4/2/2017 2:26:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Came to say this too. If you get weak after casting a while, bullets get out of round. Keep the mold closed till they harden. Doesnt take much.

Quote History
Quoted:
Two things I'd check:

Are you SQUEEZING the handles together and HOLDING THEM TIGHT throughout the entire pour???

Are you using enough Tin in your alloy???

It is easy -- especially on a gang mold -- to hold the handles too loosely and get out of round and oversized bullets.  Seems like I have to relearn this lesson every time I start a new casting session.

Undersized is a different issue.  Either the "lead" or the mold are not up to temperature or the alloy is not consistent throughout a session.
View Quote
4/2/2017 2:41:20 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:
I have that mold and love mine. Sounds like you got a bad one.

What alloy are you using?

I'm using soft lead mixed with a little bit of WW's.
View Quote
Straight WW.
4/2/2017 2:53:50 PM EDT
[#10]
Are the bullets smaller near the parting line, or at 90 degrees to the parting line?
4/2/2017 5:54:50 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote History
Quoted:
Mold pre heated before you using it, and what temp are you running the lead.

Also, are you dam sure that you tooth brush cleaned (with cleaning agent) the cavities and mold before you used it , and not  over smoking the mold or using a release agent too much that your decreasing some of the cavities IDs way down instead.

Hence of the aluminum molds, once you get them clean, then you really only need a light smoking of the mold caivities, if any smoking at all.
On the spruce and pins, very light touch of either wax, or two stroke oil, and not so much that it gets into the cavities.


As for an ideal lead temp, once you slightly over fill the spruce plate top on a pre-heated mold on the fills, you should see the lead drop/start to crystallize in about 2 seconds.  If the lead is taking longer to set up, either you got the mold too hot/running the lead too hot instead.
View Quote
I always preheat by placing the mold on top of the melt for a short time. I don't have any issue getting good casts (non wrinkled) the first time this way. I don't have a lead thermometer so I don't know my temp. I keep the rheostat on my pot well below max.

Befor first use I sprayed the cavities with brake cleaner. I then wiped them down with a rag.  I did not smoke them at all.  I use 2 cycle oil sparingly once or twice per casting session. My sprues usually solidify in about 2 seconds then haze over within another 4 seconds.
4/2/2017 5:58:45 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
I run my Lee molds hot and hold mold to the bottom of the pot, count to 3, release pour lever and move on to the next cavity.
View Quote
I'm ladle casting.  Got a large soup ladle with a 1/8 hole drilled in the bottom of it. Strong flow, it lets you pressure cast and has enough lead for the 6 cavity molds. Very nice base fill out this way, and no leaky bottom pour drama.
4/2/2017 6:04:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:
Two things I'd check:

Are you SQUEEZING the handles together and HOLDING THEM TIGHT throughout the entire pour???

Are you using enough Tin in your alloy???

It is easy -- especially on a gang mold -- to hold the handles too loosely and get out of round and oversized bullets.  Seems like I have to relearn this lesson every time I start a new casting session.

Undersized is a different issue.  Either the "lead" or the mold are not up to temperature or the alloy is not consistent throughout a session.
View Quote
Holding the handles firmly while avoiding contact with the sprue cutter handle.

Thing is, if the out of roundness were being caused by the mold blocks not being closed, why am I getting an undersize .451 measurement 45 degrees off the casting seam? It would make sense if they were undersized along the casting seam...the mold just wasn't cut right. But that's not what's happening here.
4/2/2017 6:05:46 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
Are the bullets smaller near the parting line, or at 90 degrees to the parting line?
View Quote
45 degrees from the parting line. Along the parting line, most of them are .453. 90 degrees from the parting line they're running .452. .451 is usually observed 45 degrees from the parting line.
4/2/2017 9:05:47 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Quoted:


I'm ladle casting.  Got a large soup ladle with a 1/8 hole drilled in the bottom of it. Strong flow, it lets you pressure cast and has enough lead for the 6 cavity molds. Very nice base fill out this way, and no leaky bottom pour drama.
View Quote
No bottom hole drama here.

I started using a hot plate to preheat molds while waiting for the lead to melt in the furnace.

Those guys at Cast Boolets are on to something here.

Don't see an issue with your alloy.



Extreme examples of not holding mold closed. Was teaching a newbie and had to correct this.
Armory Sponsor