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Posted: 3/20/2017 1:23:24 PM EDT
For many years I’ve used the LED strip lights for my reloading presses and have always been disappointed in the difficulty in providing enough light, especially when trying to see the powder charge in rifle cartridges. Another pain is when changing tool heads and moving the light strip out of the way.
Well there have been advances in LED technology in the past 5 years and when I built this spindle lamp for my mini mill I was blown away in how much light each bulb puts out. 
I bought a few different LEDs to play with 
Time to explore options for replacing the LED strips with these new high output center mounted bulbs. Some of the considerations are that the Dillon 650 has a larger center hole then the 550 and that the press ram does not enter this hole on the 650 as happens on the 550. In order to have maximum output across the shell plate, the LED should protrude below the mounting hole. On the 650 that easy because there is adequate space between the tool head and ram when fully extended. 
Disassemble the bulb from the base, turn and drill an insert to the proper depth and 650 light is good to go. 
The 550 presented more of a challenge because the smaller hole diameter was too small for the larger LED array. It also normally would not allow the bulb to be mounted below the tool head surface because of the ram entering the tool head when fully extended. Using a smaller diameter LED assembly was step one and after turning and drilling the mounting assembly it was game on. Also note that the LED is slightly recessed and the mounting ring lip actually contacts the ram, not the LED. 
I came up with what I (tongue in cheek) refer to as the turtle head light. It is spring loaded so it extends well below the tool head and is pushed back up into it’s shell when the ram is extended 
The ram pushing the bulb up 
Here you can see the spring wire that pushes bulb below the tool head. 
A variation on this uses a larger LED array. 
And retracted 
In a well lit room with 6 overhead florescent lights you can see how well the presses are illuminated with their new lights. 
And one shot of my shop 
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A number of years ago I also added an auto LED brake light fixed to a 20ga shotgun hull with a lead soldered to it, and slipped into the center hole of my XL650's Toolhead to light up the Shellplate perfectly. Like the OP found, the LED gives the best lighting coverage if it protrudes just below the Toolhead. Then I mounted the transformer and a on/off switch on the press on the back of the wooden allen wrench holder I also made in a hollowed out wooden support to electrically isolate it from the press. (Isolating the switch from the press is a requirement as there's both a possible shock hazard and sparks near gunpowder just ain't never going to make it into the 'Best Practices' listing of the right thing to do.) BTW, I removed the allen wrenches that slide into the holes in the wood block in front of the switch in the picture below so you can see the switch better.
I mounted the converter to the press with a Tye-Wrap to keep it out of the way and allow me to run the wire for the light over the top of the Toolhead but with enough slack so that I can pull it out when swapping Toolheads. (The allen wrenches are now back in their place in front of the switch.) 
The flat LED lights and converter are not that common because the light only has LEDs on the flat surface and the converter drops the voltage down to 12 volts, but I found both on the web from China. Two bulbs (one and a spare) and a 110 volt to 12 volt converter cost me $6.21 delivered. The switch, wire, and wood were laying around my workshop so with a bit of fitting (make sure that you leave enough slack in the wire to the light so you can pull it out of your toolhead to swap them), I set it up on my press and it works perfectly. 
Note: some of the new Toolheads have a different size center hole. My new one on the left has a slightly larger hole that will allow the 20ga shotgun hull to drop right through without the added washer I hot glued on. The older Toolhead on the right with the ring around the hole fits the hull perfectly. 
You can see this and many other cheap or free tips and tricks I've collected over the years for both your Dillon 550B and XL650 presses by checking out the permanent link I first posted back in 2011 and have kept it updated over the years, HERE. |
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Good write up and nice work, OP. I'm so electrically illiterate I'd probably burn my house down trying something as simple as this.  |
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The 12 volt car tail light type bulbs,
Center one,
http://www.viglink.com/shop?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viglink.com%2Fshop&ca=54582&cp=1659178&c=j1bhacszzw00zk8a04mjk<=&ou=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F1x-Short-1156-BA15S-T67-LED-Turn-Signal-Reverse-Light-Indicator-Bulb-WHITE-1qty-%2F331099807101 in a 20 gauge hull work well for machines like the 650. This keeps the light aimed downward, instead of towards the sides to bind you instead As for the mill spindle head, standard 60mm angle eye works fine for them. http://www.viglink.com/shop?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viglink.com%2Fshop&ca=54582&cp=1659178&c=j1bhactkra00zk8a04mjk<=&ou=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html?_nkw=60mm+angel+eye+white+led&_sacat=0&_odkw=60mm+angel+eye+white&_ipg=200&_osacat=0&_from=R40&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true As for power source, any 14.7V wall wart will work fine for both, but in the case of the mill, easy to just strip the board out of the wall wart, and install it in line the power supply connected after the on/off switch to drive the angle ring instead. Again, the angle eye focuses the light downward against the work piece, isntead of off to the side to cause binding instead. And yes, the correct voltage for both the angle eye and car bulb is 14.7, and not 12v instead. If you are only driving the bulb at 12 volts, your under driving the bulb and giving up some light. If push comes to shove and you can find a 14.7 adapter on the cheap for a few bucks, then you can use the power adapter out of the harbors freight battery tenders isntead since they go on sale all the time for under $6. 
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The 12 volt car tail light type bulbs, Center one, http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v294/galose/reloading%20lights/20170320_103538.jpg https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j1xm2nebzm00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F1x-Short-1156-BA15S-T67-LED-Turn-Signal-Reverse-Light-Indicator-Bulb-WHITE-1qty-%2F331099807101 in a 20 gauge hull work well for machines like the 650. This keeps the light aimed downward, instead of towards the sides to bind you instead As for the mill spindle head, standard 60mm angle eye works fine for them. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j1xm2nf6z100zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html?_nkw=60mm+angel+eye+white+led&_sacat=0&_odkw=60mm+angel+eye+white&_ipg=200&_osacat=0&_from=R40&afsrc=1&rmvSB=true As for power source, any 14.7V wall wart will work fine for both, but in the case of the mill, easy to just strip the board out of the wall wart, and install it in line the power supply connected after the on/off switch to drive the angle ring instead. Again, the angle eye focuses the light downward against the work piece, isntead of off to the side to cause binding instead. And yes, the correct voltage for both the angle eye and car bulb is 14.7, and not 12v instead. If you are only driving the bulb at 12 volts, your under driving the bulb and giving up some light. If push comes to shove and you can find a 14.7 adapter on the cheap for a few bucks, then you can use the power adapter out of the harbors freight battery tenders isntead since they go on sale all the time for under $6. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_22531.jpg I went with a 70mm angel eye for a new mill light 
And have had some luck selling the 550 turtle head 
and Ultimate 22 LED for the 650 on EE and eBay. 
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I bought two of the ones for my two Dillon 550's. One I have set up for pistol and the second for rifle calibers. I finally got to play with both presses this weekend with the lights installed. I loaded 500 each of 45 acp and 223 on the two presses.
For my old eyes they are worth it!!!!! Was able to see the powder levels in the 45 acp easily and on both it made it much easier to place the bullets in the cases. For any of you that have neuropathy in your hands you know what a pain the little 223 bullets are to place period. For the 45 acp I was loading 200 grain lead swc's with VERY little case belling. Seated the bullets with no case shaving of the bullets. Glock9, Thank you for making something that was really needed! Now if you can just make something similar for my RCBS 4 x 4 press! LOL |
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my old school method http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx135/AssaultRifler/reloading/Dillon650_9mm01.jpg |
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my old school method http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/xx135/AssaultRifler/reloading/Dillon650_9mm01.jpg I was thinking about taping a maglite up there but I couldn't find one and my tlr would get too hot! |
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I use to use that method myself, however, it doesn't illuminate inside the case well at all. In fact, a .223/5.56 case is dark so you can't tell what level the powder is. That's why I went to the overhead approach as it's the only way you'll get light down in a small case mouth like the .223/5.56, 30 Carbine, 357mag, etc. |
| I have the powder checker dies set up for most of my calibers, however, after using them for a while with my 5.56 loads and constantly getting false buzzing, I went back to old reliable, my Mark II eyeballs. I like to see for myself what's gong on. (Keeps my head in the game too.) |
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I have the powder checker dies set up for most of my calibers, however, after using them for a while with my 5.56 loads and constantly getting false buzzing, I went back to old reliable, my Mark II eyeballs. I like to see for myself what's gong on. (Keeps my head in the game too.) |
| I bought one of these from the Glock9 on Sunday and it was in my hands on Tuesday evening. Great quality, great communication, and it makes it a lot easier to see what I'm doing while I'm in my dimly lit garage trying to load 9mm. I'll probably end up getting some for my dad as well. |
| Bought one of Gary's 550 lights, what a difference! I reloaded for years with heavy shadowing, dark shellplate area on my press. The LED he uses is PLENTY of light. The set up seems well thought out, we'll see how long it lasts. For the money, it was a no brainer for me to try it. Thanks Gary |
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Just got a new use for the Dillon 650 light. It fits nicely in my old RCBS progressive 4x4. I only use it to load 7.62/.308 so the hole next to the powder station was open. Gives good light to all 4 stations and especially so in the primer station.
I really appreciate the maker for working with me to solve my light problem on my RCBS press!!!!!!! |
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Thanks everyone for your comments and support. I had been selling on EE but because this old man makes a few in his garage, I'm a "Manufacturer" and can't sell on EE without a $600 dealer agreement 
If you're interested in following my lights, search eBay for Dillon lights and look for "trader4stuff" |
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Got to finally use my RCBS progressive with the new light. The new light helped GREATLY!!!!! I think it helped to speed up my reloading time as it allowed me to check things with a glance instead of having and check by stopping and having look.
Thank you Glock9. |
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