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Posted: 2/18/2017 8:24:34 PM EDT
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Is the brass being pushed all the way in to station one on the forward stroke? It's hard to tell in the pic, because being off by a bit will cause these issues.
If its that, adjust the little rod that rides along the black plastic wedgeblock/cam on the casefeeder shuttle until it pushes the brass far enough in. If you watch it as you cycle the handle down and then up/forward you should be able to see how it works and which way to adjust the rod. It could be your case ejector wire spring hitting the casefeeder shuttle too. |
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You may still not have the ramp adjusted properly.
As I'm sure you know, the case is inserted into the shellplate on the priming stroke. The distance the case is inserted in station 1 is also controlled by the priming rod stopping on a primer in station 2 (live or spent...doesn't matter when adjusting). So, in other words, are you pushing the handle forward (like you're priming) when you make the ramp adjustment? I adjust my 650 so that when the machine is stopped against a primer, the case in station 1 will just barely spin with the case inserter against it. |
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Quoted:
Is the brass being pushed all the way in to station one on the forward stroke? It's hard to tell in the pic, because being off by a bit will cause these issues. If its that, adjust the little rod that rides along the black plastic wedgeblock/cam on the casefeeder shuttle until it pushes the brass far enough in. If you watch it as you cycle the handle down and then up/forward you should be able to see how it works and which way to adjust the rod. It could be your case ejector wire spring hitting the casefeeder shuttle too. This. Post video if you cant get it fixed, or call Dillon - thier customer support is second to none. |
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If the brass is being fully inserted into the shellplate and staying there try making sure that the shellplate bolt is correctly tightened. If there is too much slop sometimes the tall cases can tip over a little Copy that, thank you. Also, I apologize my shell plate is nasty. Was decapping around 1000 pieces and hadn't cleaned it up yet. |
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Keeping the press clean while running is basic. I use an acid brush or a 5/8" wide detail paint brush to clean key areas every time I refill the prime magazine when loading non pre-processed brass.
Another option that would help is to put a taper or radius on the body of that decapper. (not the small pin - the larger body portion.) I dressed mine up in a lathe. - But - Worst case to DIY - put the pin in a drill chuck and have at it with a good 'mill' or 'smooth' 'single cut' file, a fine 'bastard' would also work but will be much rougher. (Items in single quote is actual file types) I do the same thing - just ran 1K Federal mil crip 45acp through the XL650 with Lee decapper. Then sat and watched some movies with the Dillon swagger mounted in a B&D Workmate. |
I made a bushing for my decapping die. It funnels the case into the center and ensures the base is centered when the decapper strikes the ildd primer. I also use a squirrel daddy decapper that I ground smooth so it won't catch on the brass when I'm running fast.
My old thread on the problem. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/448981_.html |
Simple fix. Notice the square blunt end of the decapping rod. That is what is catching the case mouths. 
Fixed, end of rod is tapered and will no longer catch on the case mouth, causing your issue. Take the rod and chuck it in a drill. Start you grinder and with drill turning grind off the blunt end and taper it. Go slow and don't hit the decapping pin when you grind. Good luck |
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Quoted:
Simple fix. Notice the square blunt end of the decapping rod. That is what is catching the case mouths. Fixed, end of rod is tapered and will no longer catch on the case mouth, causing your issue. Take the rod and chuck it in a drill. Start you grinder and with drill turning grind off the blunt end and taper it. Go slow and don't hit the decapping pin when you grind. Good luck |
I prefer the Hornady decapping die, since it already comes with at taper pin holder, and if you do manage to snap a tip rod, a pack of new tip rods is only a few dollars ( if you don't want to call them up and have them send you a pack of pins for free instead).
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