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12/1/2016 2:20:19 AM EDT
I just received my RCBS competition PM and after reading through dryflash's thread on polishing up a PM I have a couple follow up questions now that I have it in hand.

The drum in a large black piece of metal and maybe a tad rough. Is it generally okay to just hand sand with a fine metal sandpaper to polish and then do the wax? Same for the inside of the housing the drum sits in?

As for the actual hole the micrometer sits in, okay to do the same thing with a fine paper wrapped around wood dowel and then wax?

As for wax, dryflash posted some minwax product. Would renaissance wax be as good or better or not the right stuff at all? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012S1XBO/

12/1/2016 2:52:14 AM EDT
[#1]
That should be fine.  A candle or paraffin wax or even ski wax will also work.

Heck, car wax will also work.
12/1/2016 9:24:04 AM EDT
[#2]
Do not remove any metal until after you have waxed your PM.

Use Minwax.
12/1/2016 9:15:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
Do not remove any metal until after you have waxed your PM.

Use Minwax.
View Quote


So would using a very fine sandpaper be removing metal or more polishing? I was also just thinking of using some 0000 steel wool.
12/1/2016 9:59:13 PM EDT
[#4]
0000 steel wool would be the coarsest abrasive I'd use.  The rotor is machined to fit in the powder measure body pretty snugly, so if you get even slightly aggressive, you could wreck that.

If there's anything ON THE CIRCUMFERENCE of the rotor that's rough, that could be a problem.  Elsewhere, don't even bother with it.
12/2/2016 1:54:08 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:


So would using a very fine sandpaper be removing metal or more polishing? I was also just thinking of using some 0000 steel wool.
View Quote

You saw (pic I posted) all of the PM's I have worked with.

Use the wax, I found it a waste of time "smoothing out" the PM.

The wax makes that much difference.
12/4/2016 3:07:19 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:

You saw (pic I posted) all of the PM's I have worked with.

Use the wax, I found it a waste of time "smoothing out" the PM.

The wax makes that much difference.
View Quote

+100.  Powder measures, particularly the Uniflow and Hornady LnL (same design) have to have enough tolerance between parts to move, but not so much that they spill powder everywhere.  The parts are finished more than well enough to make that work - even if you can see tool marks here and there.  But a careful coat of wax, allowed to set and then buffed out, overcomes any resistance you feel from those machine marks.  It's like the difference between using too little lube on a case and using enough; the movement goes from a chore to almost effortless.

I just rewaxed my LnL measure.  Johnson's paste wax seems to collect graphite and such, so I remove it and reapply every now and then.  If I ever run out of this can of wax, I may buy a can of Minwax and see how it lasts!  The movement went from "hey, there's some resistance" to glassy smooth.  Too bad I didn't measure the resistance before and after; that would have been some cool data.
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