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Posted: 10/6/2016 8:30:01 PM EDT
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I'm about to embark on reloading my first rifle cartridges. I've picked out 15 PPU .223 cases to test my initial loads. Saturday I will be picking up some H335 and small rifle primers.
One of the cases, has a very small dent in the center of it. It's been resized and trimmed and the dent is still there. For the record, the dent WAS there before sizing so it's not from my resizing die. You can see the dent in the middle of the case.  " />
So, what do you think? OK to reload or should I just turn it into a keychain or something? |
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It's safe, I have seen dents like those on my casings when I use too much lube, it creates pressure points in the case walls since it has nowhere to go, upon firing it that will form back to normal. So long as you aren't pushing the very maximum pressures you are fine. The main thing to look for in casings is webbing under the case head, cracks in the necks, and oversized primer pockets. Minor dents like those are fine.
Btw webbing or something similar to a white pattern at the base of the case is indicators of the case wall getting too thin and causing case-head separation. |
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That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. |
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That case is good to go. What brand primer are you using? If loading H335 for AR, CCI 450 Small Rifle Magnum is good choice. Some folks use the CCI 400, but I like that extra margin of safety with the thicker cup. Avoid Rem 6 1/2 for .223 loads. I was going to lick up CCI 400's but was considering 450's; just didn't know if there was a reason to use the mag primers. I guess it really depends on what Cabela's has when I get there on Saturday. 
I've been buying CCI primers for pistol so I'm sticking with CCI, they've been good to me. 
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I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. |
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I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. My non-casting friend constantly texts me asking for info from Lyman's casting manual. It has a lot of good info not in other Lyman manuals. Buying cast bullets is nothing to be ashaned of. Casting yourself doesnt always save you anything especially for the common calubers. And yes, case is gtg. |
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Even if the dent was creased enough that it cracked when the pressure ironed it out you would still be safe and probably not even notice it until prepping again.
The middle of the case body is not much more than a container to hold the powder. The case walls are expanded so tightly against the chamber wall that typically there isn't even any gas escape. Anyone who has had partial head separation is familiar with this. You often don't even know it happened until you pick up your brass. As far as primers go I think the post above that stated he uses the 450s just for the little extra thickness (more or less personal preference) states it well. I know I've posted this several times but in a head to head load work up with WC-844 and 55gr bullets I saw no difference between the 400s and 450s in any manner. In fact after closely examining them I through them in the tumbler without de-capping and afterwards couldn't tell one from the other. Motor |
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My non-casting friend constantly texts me asking for info from Lyman's casting manual. It has a lot of good info not in other Lyman manuals. Buying cast bullets is nothing to be ashaned of. Casting yourself doesnt always save you anything especially for the common calubers. And yes, case is gtg. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. My non-casting friend constantly texts me asking for info from Lyman's casting manual. It has a lot of good info not in other Lyman manuals. Buying cast bullets is nothing to be ashaned of. Casting yourself doesnt always save you anything especially for the common calubers. And yes, case is gtg. That's specifically why I bought the book. I started buying coated cast lead bullets from Bayou Bullets and wanted the book for load data on lead bullets so I didn't have to come on here and ask stupid questions like the one in the OP of this very thread.
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<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Cases/P5240203.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Cases/P5240203.jpg</a> <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Cases/P5250206.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Cases/P5250206.jpg</a> Same cases in the same place in the loading block. 50,000 Psi fixes dents when fired. Dents ok, scratches make case into scrap. Seeing those dents makes me wish I didn't toss out those two 7.62x39 rounds I crushed at the range a few months back. I had two FTFs and two cartridges had dents in the same spot as the two cases in your picture. I ended up throwing them away.
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I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. If you stick to minimum listed loads you are short changing your rifle. Unless you are only shooting paper at 100 yards you should work up loads that can get as close to max plus as long as the group well. For paper shooting, just shoot what gets the smallest groups. Often smaller groups come around as you up the charge. For a pistol, shooting paper, as long as your pistol cycles reliably then use the light charges. Don't try to load +P loads, you are on the edge and don't want to kaboom your Glock. |
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If you stick to minimum listed loads you are short changing your rifle. Unless you are only shooting paper at 100 yards you should work up loads that can get as close to max plus as long as the group well. For paper shooting, just shoot what gets the smallest groups. Often smaller groups come around as you up the charge. For a pistol, shooting paper, as long as your pistol cycles reliably then use the light charges. Don't try to load +P loads, you are on the edge and don't want to kaboom your Glock. Quoted:
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It's safe That's what I thought but wanted to be sure since it's my first go with reloading rifle cartridges. Thanks. I'm far from a expert in reloading, but if you have any questions and I know the answers I will teach you what I can. The best thing to do is be very aware of max powder charges and seating depths. Also know how to look for pressure signs, cratering of the primers, gas/burn marks on the outside of primer pockets, split case necks, and stuck/sticky casings. You should also look into a chronograph if you don't have one, as well as a few reloading books. I have 8 reloading books, 5 actual books and three Hodgon annuals. I even picked up the Lyman Cast book even though I have no plans on casting. I don't load pistol cartridges close to max and tend to stay on the starting load so I'll do the same with rifle. If you stick to minimum listed loads you are short changing your rifle. Unless you are only shooting paper at 100 yards you should work up loads that can get as close to max plus as long as the group well. For paper shooting, just shoot what gets the smallest groups. Often smaller groups come around as you up the charge. For a pistol, shooting paper, as long as your pistol cycles reliably then use the light charges. Don't try to load +P loads, you are on the edge and don't want to kaboom your Glock. All I do is punch paper. I don't hunt or really go for accuracy. I do it mainly as a way to relax and have fun. It's probably not the same reasons a lot of other people do it. I took the same stance when I fished too. I never really went out to catch anything, I took it as an opportunity to sit by a lake in the quiet and just kind of relax. If I caught a fish that was an added bonus. As long as all my shots put a hole in the paper or on the steel plate I'm aiming at, I'm happy; I don't care where they land on it. |
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welcome to the hobby OP
I use H335 for my .223 plinker loads as well. I typically buy CCI 450's because I use those for my match loads with the 77gr bullets and I would rather just keep 1 type of primer. but 400's will work just fine and you wont have any problems with them, ive loaded thousands. FWIW my plinking load is 24.5gr of H335 with a hornady 55gr fmj. Very accurate as well. but like you would read everywhere else start at the low end of your load data and work up to something that shoots very well for your rifle. You will be very surprised how easy it is to load very accurate ammo. |
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All I do is punch paper. I don't hunt or really go for accuracy. I do it mainly as a way to relax and have fun. It's probably not the same reasons a lot of other people do it. I took the same stance when I fished too. I never really went out to catch anything, I took it as an opportunity to sit by a lake in the quiet and just kind of relax. If I caught a fish that was an added bonus. As long as all my shots put a hole in the paper or on the steel plate I'm aiming at, I'm happy; I don't care where they land on it. I like your approach. If you do start reaching way out there, you may find faster loads beneficial. Of course always staying within the published data and have fun. |
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Good one man! |
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Hope your Armscore bullets shoot better than the ones I tried. 6 in 5 shot groups at 100 yds. Same load except Hornady FMJBT's shot into 1 1/4 inch on the same day. Back from the range. All 15 rounds went bang and all hit the paper at 75 meters except for one I put on steel at 100 yards. They all shot high and to the left/center but that was more me. I also wasn't going for accuracy, just to see if they went bang. Next batch I'll try and see if I can get them a little more accurate.  </a>" />
Primers look good.  </a>" />
Cases also look good. I'm also surprised at how clean they are compared to some factory ammo I also had my very first squib shooting TMJ .38 special out of my Henry lever action. Round just went "bloop". Buddy and I had a good laugh, I pulled the bolt and ran a rod through the barrel and popped the bullet out.  </a>" />
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I can't seem to find load data that works for these TMJ bullets. I had loaded them with 3.5 grains of Titegroup but its way too light. Thing is, I have no idea who made these bullets, I got them from Titanreloading last year as a bulk buy. Also, would it be stupid to reload this bullet or should I just keep it as a souvenir in what not to do? |
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