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Posted: 12/25/2015 3:09:19 PM EDT
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I marked some of my 223/556 case bases with a silver magic marker. It disappeared after firing them. This is aggravating. I like to separate "my" brass from the usual range pickups that are always there. I don't really want to mess with a brass catcher. I don't have this problem with pistol brass.
Do you have a method that will make a more-or-less permanent mark on my cases? |
| Black Sharpie pen and write on the side of the case or color the extractor groove to just identify. If I want to remove the black writing I use my homemade or Dillon case lube. A spot on a rag and the black writing will come off completely. Guess it's the alcohol in the spray lube. Sharpie writing on the sides of my pistol or rifle brass stays on after firing and at least enough left to read my load data written on the case. I usually use a black Sharpie but other colors do as well. |
| I just color the primer with a sharpie, using the multiple colors pack, like these. Then just make a corresponding mark next to that load's data on the sheet. I even use the colors to designate the 'warmth' (black-blue-red-etc), with max loads uncolored. |
| I mark my test loads by either writing a number on the primer with an ultra-fine Sharpie or by marking the primer and head with a regular Sharpie (the number of marks separates different loads). That stuff stays put, even the ultra-fine lines for numbers. But once you deprime and polish the cases, the markings are all gone. |
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I had the same problem. I do not want to have to sort through hundreds of brass cases to determine which ones I had removed the primer crimp from and which ones still had a crimp.
I used a black Sharpie and it works ok. It is a little slow to mark several hundred rounds at a time. I then tried one of these. It works awesome and is fast. The only downside it it takes 24 hours to dry. I load .223 on a progressive and usually do 3-500 at a time. I stamp them and toss into a plastic shoebox sized container and after a couple days I transfer them to boxes or an ammo can. I pick up anything brass at the range except .22LR and when I get home I sort by caliber and for my reloaded caliber(s) I have 2 containers, one is my stamped brass and others are plain. |
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Quoted:
I had the same problem. I do not want to have to sort through hundreds of brass cases to determine which ones I had removed the primer crimp from and which ones still had a crimp. I used a black Sharpie and it works ok. It is a little slow to mark several hundred rounds at a time. I then tried one of these. It works awesome and is fast. The only downside it it takes 24 hours to dry. I load .223 on a progressive and usually do 3-500 at a time. I stamp them and toss into a plastic shoebox sized container and after a couple days I transfer them to boxes or an ammo can. I pick up anything brass at the range except .22LR and when I get home I sort by caliber and for my reloaded caliber(s) I have 2 containers, one is my stamped brass and others are plain. Looks promising. Do you mark the base or the side with the Stazon pad? |
Or: 
Then flip the cartridge holder thing around: 
Or you can cut up a 2X4 like this and drill a couple of holes in it. One for .45 and one for 9mm/.223. A deck screw sunk down into the holes allows you to set how high or low on the case you want the stripe: 
You twist the round with your fingers, so it can make your hand sore after a while. Plus it takes a really long time. |
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I had a gunsmith friend that has a couple methods. I wouldn't use them on high volume loading.
1. take an automatic center punch and put a punch mark somewhere on the case head. 2. another of his methods was to take a dremel and cut a light mark on the outer edge of the rim. For him it served the purpose to load the cartridge the same way every time, his light cut mark was always indexed at 12 o'clock when chambered. He liked to play for extreme accuracy. Neither of these methods wouldn't be as fast as bright marker as you would have to take the time to find your mark but they would certainly not be confused with someone else's range trash. They don't smear off when firing and they don't tumble off. |
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Quoted:
I had the same problem. I do not want to have to sort through hundreds of brass cases to determine which ones I had removed the primer crimp from and which ones still had a crimp. I used a black Sharpie and it works ok. It is a little slow to mark several hundred rounds at a time. I then tried one of these. It works awesome and is fast. The only downside it it takes 24 hours to dry. I load .223 on a progressive and usually do 3-500 at a time. I stamp them and toss into a plastic shoebox sized container and after a couple days I transfer them to boxes or an ammo can. I pick up anything brass at the range except .22LR and when I get home I sort by caliber and for my reloaded caliber(s) I have 2 containers, one is my stamped brass and others are plain. Serious question: do you use a stamp on your cases (i.e. a rubber stamp), or do you touch the case head (or body) to the stamp pad to "stamp" them? |
| i use a dremel and cutting disc to knick a small mark on the rim of the case. i do that everytime i reload that case, after 4 markings i just toss it in my recycling bucket. helps with the initial sorting so i know what has been through my hands before already and what is "new" pick up that i will need to swage and trim. |
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I don't mark brass. I use a Rocky boots shoebox at the range to catch brass from my ARs (if switch weapons I pick the brass up and put back in the ammo box or in a zip lock bag) and place all range pickup brass in a dedicated bucket or bag.
My bolt gun, all ammo is in an ammo box so gets placed back into its slot as fired. Pistol brass, I don't care. I don't load any special calibers, just 9mm and .45acp so if I get unknown brass mixed in with mine oh well, it gets sorted/cleaned/sized. |
| I pretty much just do this for HP shoots, all I do is draw 2 lines across the head stamp with 2 different colors. A few other shooters do it too. Makes it easy to sort out eachothers brass.. As far as load data and # of times loaded, thats kept track of on the box. |
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Quoted:
For my .223 loads what I do is load them all onto 10 round stripper clips and make a swipe down either side with a sharpie. Does all 10 at once and then when I pick them up I look for the black dashes on either side to know which ones are mine. Do that for .223 loads as well. For pistol loads, I dump the ammo in a plastic shoe box size container, then "stir" the box with a large sharpie. It puts marks on the cases and I can distinguish mine from others. Love the idea of marking primers in te the card. Am going to try it. |
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I tried marking my 223/556 primers. They came out without any markings after firing. Used name brand magic marker permanent style marker. But, the same markings lasted on the head stamps. Go figure.
I really liked the idea of marking the primers in the sleeve. Very convenient. Anyone tried archival ink from Amazon on anything? |
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I store my plinking ammo in stripper clips, quick swipe across both sides with a fat tipped sharpie makes them easy to find.
Use different colors for difderent loads. During load dev I mark rims and primers, I have rattled them around long enough before shooting to rub off though. |
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Quoted:
Serious question: do you use a stamp on your cases (i.e. a rubber stamp), or do you touch the case head (or body) to the stamp pad to "stamp" them? Quoted:
Quoted:
I had the same problem. I do not want to have to sort through hundreds of brass cases to determine which ones I had removed the primer crimp from and which ones still had a crimp. I used a black Sharpie and it works ok. It is a little slow to mark several hundred rounds at a time. I then tried one of these. It works awesome and is fast. The only downside it it takes 24 hours to dry. I load .223 on a progressive and usually do 3-500 at a time. I stamp them and toss into a plastic shoebox sized container and after a couple days I transfer them to boxes or an ammo can. I pick up anything brass at the range except .22LR and when I get home I sort by caliber and for my reloaded caliber(s) I have 2 containers, one is my stamped brass and others are plain. Serious question: do you use a stamp on your cases (i.e. a rubber stamp), or do you touch the case head (or body) to the stamp pad to "stamp" them? The stamp pad sits on the bench and I just take the loaded rounds and stamp onto the ink pad. It marks the case head, primer and all. I then let them dry overnight and then put them in final storage. I do not mark the sides. |
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Quoted:
I tried marking my 223/556 primers. They came out without any markings after firing. Used name brand magic marker permanent style marker. But, the same markings lasted on the head stamps. Go figure. I really liked the idea of marking the primers in the sleeve. Very convenient. Anyone tried archival ink from Amazon on anything? Wow Sharpie brand has always worked for me. Paint pens flake off. I'd give this a shot. http://www.staples.com/Nissen-1-8-in-Fiber-Tip-Low-Chloride-Feltip-Paint-Markers/product_SS1067980 |
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Quoted:
The stamp pad sits on the bench and I just take the loaded rounds and stamp onto the ink pad. It marks the case head, primer and all. I then let them dry overnight and then put them in final storage. I do not mark the sides. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I had the same problem. I do not want to have to sort through hundreds of brass cases to determine which ones I had removed the primer crimp from and which ones still had a crimp. I used a black Sharpie and it works ok. It is a little slow to mark several hundred rounds at a time. I then tried one of these. It works awesome and is fast. The only downside it it takes 24 hours to dry. I load .223 on a progressive and usually do 3-500 at a time. I stamp them and toss into a plastic shoebox sized container and after a couple days I transfer them to boxes or an ammo can. I pick up anything brass at the range except .22LR and when I get home I sort by caliber and for my reloaded caliber(s) I have 2 containers, one is my stamped brass and others are plain. Serious question: do you use a stamp on your cases (i.e. a rubber stamp), or do you touch the case head (or body) to the stamp pad to "stamp" them? The stamp pad sits on the bench and I just take the loaded rounds and stamp onto the ink pad. It marks the case head, primer and all. I then let them dry overnight and then put them in final storage. I do not mark the sides. |
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http://www.sciencecompany.com/-W160.aspx
Color them permanently. |
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