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Posted: 11/21/2015 8:17:01 AM EDT
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Doing my first .223 handloads. I am using: General Dynamics new brass IMR 4895 CCI 400 small rifle primers Sierra HPBT 77 grain Lyman Reloading Manual My first loads I use 22.5 grains of propellant which is supposed to push the bullet at about 2400 fps. Pretty anemic by energy calculations. I am planning to go to the max load according to the manual which is 24.5 grains of propellant. This is a compressed load. Will I have problems with blown primers with this max load? The manual does not say anything other than this is their max load suggestion with the above powder and bullet combination. The 24.5 grain load should push the round at about 2750 fps which is more like the factory loads for this bullet. I have a chronograph which I will use to check the actual velocities. It will be my first time using a chrony. Should be interesting. I am shooting out of a 1/7 twist 18 inch bbl. It is an FN15 DMR rifle. Opinions and advice from experience folks appreciated. |
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you'll need to make some work-up loads, and keep an eye on things, like swipes, etc, as you approach the max loads. 22.5, 23, 23.5..23.7...24...etc. I like 4895 for Garand loads, but would skip it for 77gr if you are going for velocity find some TAC if you can. http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra223ar.pdf |
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Warning: It's never a good idea-never- to jump from a starting load to the max load. Ever.
The max load published in all books and manuals was the max load for the particular lot of powder, specific brass, etc in the actual test rifle used. Your rifle is different. Your pressures will be different. You can fart around at starting load power levels fairly safely. However, its a good idea to approach max loads carefully. The best idea is to load a few rounds at various powder charges. For example, if the max load for a particular cartridge is 25 grains, load maybe five rounds at 23, five at 24, five more at 24.5 and another five at 25.0. Start shooting the lowest power level first and check for signs of obvious pressure. Use your chromo to verify that velocities are close to expected. If the lowest level looks good, try the next higher level. Once you reach the max recommended charge or once you see signs of pressure, STOP. If you got to max levels without pressure signs, this is your max. If you got to levels were primers are flattened, brass is scuffed up, etc, then back off to the previous powder level. This is your max. This is a bit of a pain in the ass, but it keeps eyeballs in your head, fingers on your hands, and prevents rifles from spontaneously disassembling. I your specific case, Id load five each at 22.5, 23.0, 23.5, 24.0, 24.5 |
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Thanks guys. That is what I was looking for. Also, in the IMR loading data they call max load 23 grains of IMR 4895. That is much less than the Lyman manual. Also the test barrel in the IMR data is much different than Lyman. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle |
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Yes; spoke to another today and they say the go to powders are Varget and TAC. I will look for some Varget. The results from today: As baseline, I used the IMI Razor Core 77 grain round and the average velocity was 2707 Next I shot the 77 grain rounds over the 22.5 grains of IMR 4895 and got an average of 2474. Pretty anemic, but it worked. Finally I tested the rounds using the 24.5 grains of IMR 4895 with a result of 2674. I am happy with that. There did not seem to be any issues with primers in any case. Thanks for the info. By the way, the Lyman data and actual results were pretty close. |
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Quoted: Thanks guys. That is what I was looking for. Also, in the IMR loading data they call max load 23 grains of IMR 4895. That is much less than the Lyman manual. Also the test barrel in the IMR data is much different than Lyman. http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifle What you have to realize is reloading data is a report of what happened when the listed components were tested. Component batches are different, rifles, test equipment, and lab techs are different. If the data was the same, it would be suspect. Now you know why there is a "start" load and work up from there watching for pressure signs. Lots of variables to test for. Shoot groups as you work up so you can check the accuracy of loads as you work up.  When working with extruded powder, a drop tube is a nice piece of equipment. Left side of pic. Also do a visual check on powder level before seating bullets. Very important in pistol reloading when double charges are possible. |
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Quoted: It would seem a ball would be good. There is not that much room in a .223 case? I will look for TAC and the other. Quoted: Quoted: Find a good ball powder.. Tac, CFE223.. dont fight the stick powders (Varget, etc) in 223.. Not worth it IMO. Look for Tac, and CFE 223, in ball powder, IMR-8208 XBR for a short cut extruded that measures well. |
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Quoted:
It would seem a ball would be good. There is not that much room in a .223 case? I will look for TAC and the other. Quoted:
Quoted:
Find a good ball powder.. Tac, CFE223.. dont fight the stick powders (Varget, etc) in 223.. Not worth it IMO. Not just about the amount of room.. It's the bridging that you can get from stick powder when dropping the charge in the case. PITA. Lots erof love for some stick powders (like Varget) for heavy 223.. But unless you don't plan on any mass production, then go with ball powder. 30cal or higher, less bridging. It can be a PITA if you are using a progressive. When I run 30-30 with 3031 powder (stick), I get bridging every so often. Sometimes it dumps the charge just as I am dropping the ram. Then.. all over the shellplate. 
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I see Varget data all the time and wonder how they got "that much" of it to even fit in the casings.
I have at least a couple loads that I use with Varget or another stick powder that's still a grain or more under max and still have to use a 4" drop tube to make enough room in the case to seat the bullet. Drop tubes work great but I imagine are not very practical for the fellow using a progressive press. Oh yeah something "on topic". Ball powder typically works well when compressed and dosn't make strange crunching noise when seating. 
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