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Posted: 9/28/2015 9:26:41 AM EDT
I have more 308 brass than I know what to do with, and a lonely 6.5 Creedmoor that is haunting my dreams to shoot. What is the best bang for the buck neck turning tool? I see RCBS, Hornady, K&M all make the tools. I hear good things about the Hornady but $110?  I have been looking at the K&M, the MANTPA-XX-AA, and looks to be a good tool. Suggestions,comments,concerns, criticism? |
If $110 sounds high then $250 really will, but after using this setup I literally can't imagine how slow it would have been otherwise. I turned about 350 pieces of 260 Rem after work every night for about a week . . . kept having to remind myself that it was a one time job. 
21st Century Neck Turning Lathe |
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Quoted: I have more 308 brass than I know what to do with, and a lonely 6.5 Creedmoor that is haunting my dreams to shoot. What is the best bang for the buck neck turning tool? I see RCBS, Hornady, K&M all make the tools. I hear good things about the Hornady but $110? I have been looking at the K&M, the MANTPA-XX-AA, and looks to be a good tool. Suggestions,comments,concerns, criticism? Do you already have a lathe trimmer? Buy that makers tool to turn necks?  Not the most high tech, but serves me well. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/773444/rcbs-trim-pro-case-trimmer-case-neck-turner?cm_vc=ProductFinding $37 and you will need a pilot, right side of the page. Depends on the amount of precision you desire, how much you spend. |
| I'll say Sinclair. They make nice tools. Buy a simple, handheld turner. They work really well. The ones with bells and whistles are not only NOT needed, that stuff takes away from the feel of properly turning a case neck. They add mass and inertia that interferes. |
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Curious, does using a die with a neck bushing make sense without neck turning as well? I personally don't think so. The wall thickness of the neck isn't qualified, so the sizing operation will be inconsistent. That said, I do use primarily busing dies, but expand the necks in a different operation with a Sinclair expanding tool. |
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I have a Sinclair that's one of the best ones I've used. I got the Sinclair deluxe tool after not finidng a K&M available. I think I got the better deal with a bigger company with more stock and plenty of support down the road. I am happy with it. I am also touching up .260 |
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Curious, does using a die with a neck bushing make sense without neck turning as well? I am using Redding Bushing dies for all my "precision" calibers. What I do like about them is the ability to change for diffierent brass types. I can change bushings for thicker LC cases or thinner Winchester brass. I do well enough with the bushing dies. There is probably a little bit of wiggle that must be there for the bushings to go in and out that you won't get with a solid die honed out to your specs say like a nice semi custom die from Forster. If you were loading for only one rifle and using the same brass set up all the time that would probably be a more perfect set up. I am happy with the bushing dies. |
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I only skim turn necks for long range ammo. Usually the cutter only takes metal from 180 to 270 degrees around the neck.
I never cut so deep that the neck is turned for a full 360 degrees. Unless you have a custom tight necked chamber that requires neck turning this is your best bet. Go to www.accurateshooter.com to read their reviews of different neck turning tools. There are a lot of them on the market. I use a power drill and the it makes a hard job more tolerable. As long as you end up with less than .001" to .002" of run out you're doing great. You want a cutter head that has a matching angle for the shoulder for the specific brass you're going to trim. 23 degrees for .223, 30 degrees for benchrest, etc. This allows you to just touch the shoulder when the neck is finished without removing any metal to speak of. |
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Have a pic for those of us who have never heard of this kit? Quoted:
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The 21st Century with the proper shoulder angle is the way to go. Get the kit. Have a pic for those of us who have never heard of this kit? It is the neck turning tool, a case holder that can be chucked in a drill or cordless screwdriver, and a 7/8 die with a correctly sized expanding mandrel. The correct mandrel is very important. It allows the neck to fit on the turning tool mandrel with no play, but still be able to be turned without creating brass buildup on the mandrel. |
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