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Posted: 9/25/2015 8:33:59 AM EDT
So, I've noticed that when I'm reloading .357 Magnum using Hodgon H110 powder my Leed Auto disk is bleeding about two cases worth of powder every 5th or 6th round I make. So, it's losing about 30 grains +/-. Is there any way to stop this? It's quite aggravating as it's throwing powder all over the reloading bench and floor every time I charge a case. I've resorted to sweeping the powder up and then putting it back in the hopper but I feel I shouldn't have to do this. It doesn't do this when I'm loading Titegroup for .45 ACP, 9mm and .38 Special just with H110; it's much finer than Titegroup.
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This was just after I swept the powder from it. It gets in the channels that the disk rides in and on the sides as well as the top of the disk. I've had to take the thing apart just to clean it up. I've checked to make sure that the disk is actually sitting flush to the mount and then hopper and looked to see if it's binding but I can't see anything out of place. It is throwing consistent charges at 14.5 grains then I use a trickler to bring them up to 15.0. As you can see, powder is going everywhere. Like I said, I don't have this issue loading with Titegroup. Does anyone have any ideas? |
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Very common. Disassemble the auto disk. Get something flat like a piece of glass. Put some fine sand paper on top of it.
Sand down the risers being careful to keep it even. Start with just removing the paint. Clean thoroughly. Start over and remove a little more if it's still loose. ETA. Make sure the screws are very snug and stay that way. Pro auto works very well once tuned. Keep at it. |
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Quoted:
Very common. Disassemble the auto disk. Get something flat like a piece of glass. Put some fine sand paper on top of it. Sand down the risers being careful to keep it even. Start with just removing the paint. Clean thoroughly. Start over and remove a little more if it's still loose. ETA. Make sure the screws are very snug and stay that way. Pro auto works very well once tuned. Keep at it. I'll give that a try. |
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I'll give that a try. Quoted:
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Very common. Disassemble the auto disk. Get something flat like a piece of glass. Put some fine sand paper on top of it. Sand down the risers being careful to keep it even. Start with just removing the paint. Clean thoroughly. Start over and remove a little more if it's still loose. ETA. Make sure the screws are very snug and stay that way. Pro auto works very well once tuned. Keep at it. I'll give that a try. I did that to all of mine and it helped a LOT........also,be aware that static electricity can build up enough to cause powder to 'clump' or 'magnetize'. |
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I did that to all of mine and it helped a LOT........also,be aware that static electricity can build up enough to cause powder to 'clump' or 'magnetize'. Quoted:
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Very common. Disassemble the auto disk. Get something flat like a piece of glass. Put some fine sand paper on top of it. Sand down the risers being careful to keep it even. Start with just removing the paint. Clean thoroughly. Start over and remove a little more if it's still loose. ETA. Make sure the screws are very snug and stay that way. Pro auto works very well once tuned. Keep at it. I'll give that a try. I did that to all of mine and it helped a LOT........also,be aware that static electricity can build up enough to cause powder to 'clump' or 'magnetize'. I spray all my Lee Auto Disks down with graphite lube. I just didn't do the disk and the actual mount on the. 357/.38 dies. |
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Very common. Disassemble the auto disk. Get something flat like a piece of glass. Put some fine sand paper on top of it. Sand down the risers being careful to keep it even. Start with just removing the paint. Clean thoroughly. Start over and remove a little more if it's still loose. ETA. Make sure the screws are very snug and stay that way. Pro auto works very well once tuned. Keep at it. I need to do this myself, seems better than my fix. I took a little different approach, I used two layers of scotch tape placed on the platform the disk rides on..eliminated my W231 mess. The tape has held up for many thousands of rounds and still looks new. For static control. I wipe the inside of the hopper with a dryer sheet before filling, then use spray static guard on the outside...works great! I also use this combo on/around my scales and hornady auto charge. Static is a real problem here in the dry southwest. |
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The only time mine ever did that was when the elastic wiper wore out. Might want to check that. It's brand new. I actually have three of these Auto Disks. One for each caliber I load. The other two that I load Titegroup on does this. Only this one leaks using H110. I did use this same one to load some 38 special using Titegroup and it didn't leak. It only started leaking when I changed to H110. |
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I may give this a go as well. |
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I got sick of the disks and I ended up putting a Dillon powder measurer on my LCT. I had to make a riser but works great. http://i1359.photobucket.com/albums/q782/Serwin007/IMG_20140819_211639_zpso9orzzkw.jpg That's slick. I have the Lee Deluxe Turret Press. Except I use it as a single stage press. I'm still new to reloading so I'm really slow. I make sure my charged are within +/- .1-.2 grains of my starting load. So, I load 15 grains of H110 for .357 but if they come to anything more than 15.2 grains they get dumped and reloaded. The majority of them are exactly 15 grains. I also weigh each charge using three scales. One beam and two digital. It's probably overkill but it's what I do. Anyway. I fixed the bleed. What I did was sanded the top of the little arm that moves the disk, I found it was sitting too high and causing the disk to cant to one side. But then I noticed the hopper itself wasn't down as far as it could go so I sanded the sides where it sits. It seemed to work for a while then I noticed it was leaking again so then I smoothed out the bottom of the disk. That helped for a while but it slowly started to bleed again. I then switched it out to one of those Lee Micro Charge Bars and that corrected the leak. To test it out I loaded 54 rounds of. 357 and didn't lose a grain of powder. Now I'm going to take a look at the 9mm and .45 dies and see if I can do the same.  </a>" />
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Glad you got it worked out. I know how frustrating it can be.
If the beam and that you are using along with two more digitalis is the Lee that came with your kit, that thing is junk. I don't usually say that the only solution to a problem is to spend money, but that thing is junk. And if the digitalis cost less than $100 they are suspect as well. One good beam will speed you up. |
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Glad you got it worked out. I know how frustrating it can be. If the beam and that you are using along with two more digitalis is the Lee that came with your kit, that thing is junk. I don't usually say that the only solution to a problem is to spend money, but that thing is junk. And if the digitalis cost less than $100 they are suspect as well. One good beam will speed you up. The beam is the next item to be replaced. It frustrates me to no end. I just bought a new digital scale. |
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