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Posted: 7/13/2015 4:43:32 PM EDT
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I bought some steel cases Tula 45 acp the other day to try out my new pistol. When I looked at the fired cases I saw it was a boxeer primer so I picked up 14 of them and brought home.
Today my 45 acp dies came in and I lubed the steel cases adn sized them with no issues, then I went ahead and reloaded them and finished with a lee factory crimp die. they all loadd fine and when I checked the fiction in my side arm they worked fine. I know I am not the only one that has done this, How many reloads could one expect from the steel case? any issues you have run into with using steel cases? |
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I've heard that the rare steel cases that are boxer are actually quite durable and on normal pistol charges will last as long or longer than brass. But that was only something I read on a forum, and I wouldn't take that to the bank. But if I was loading them, I'd keep loading them until I started to see issues with the necks splitting. |
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I've done it quite a bit. I never load anything to max load and I keep loading it till it doesn't pass my inspections. Also not recommended, but I've also loaded aluminum cases. It can be done.
When I go to a match I usually carry a magnet on a telescoping handle that I got from Harbor Freight. I use it to pick up my brass and get some really funny looks. One or two have approached me asking what kind of magnet I'm using to pick up brass and then I explain that the cases are steel. The looks of disappointment are pretty sad. |
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Quoted:
It was your posts SBR7_11, and these pics, that got me started loading steel cases when I first joined this forum. So thanks. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Berdan%20primed/P7300265.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Berdan%20primed/P7300265.jpg</a> From there I move on to loading Berdan 7.62x39 brass cases, then the steel ones. Beware OP, you may end up on the dark side with me. 
I managed to get 11 firings out of a Wolf green lacquer .223 back in the day with a LEE hand press and lotsa lube. When it quit, the crack was in the shoulder, and it was within .001 of it's original length with no trimming. The coating was long gone, and the primers were getting pretty easy to seat by then, though. |
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Quoted:
It was your posts SBR7_11, and these pics, that got me started loading steel cases when I first joined this forum. So thanks. People always thought I be a bad influence to others when I was a kid.. guess I still am ?? From there I move on to loading Berdan 7.62x39 brass cases, then the steel ones. You a bit more adventurous than myself.. 7.62x39 I have pile of 1993-94 vintage new & once fire WIN cases bought back then,, still random find WIN empties at Fish & Game that people leave,, I have E&L shell catcher, so I dont lose mine Beware OP, you may end up on the dark side with me the rest of us...
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| Back in the day, I loaded tons of 9mm boxer primed Wolf cases through my HK USP. The cases seemed to last a long time. I only discarded them when I began getting vertical cracks starting at the mouths. Since then, I just stick to brass since its cheap and plentiful. That being said, my USP did require new extractor at 5K total rounds. At least 2K of that was steel. I don't know if shooting the steel affected it, but since I have switched to brass, the gun is still running the once-replaced extractor. |
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Quoted: I've been given a case of the polymer 55 grain FMJ polymer coated ammunition that was purchased in 1998 or 1999. Once I fire it, do you suggest that I clean the empty cases by wet tumbling or dry tumbling? I can do it either way. I dry tumble steel cases. Don't over do it as it will take the coating off that you want to keep. 1 or 2 hours is fine. |
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Quoted:
I've been given a case of the polymer 55 grain FMJ polymer coated ammunition that was purchased in 1998 or 1999. Once I fire it, do you suggest that I clean the empty cases by wet tumbling or dry tumbling? I can do it either way. You should notice the fired cases may have a real fine grit feel on them,, I just run in walnut for an hr or so to remove the gritty feel, they'll have "smooth / slick" feel when clean.. chamfer the inside mouth, and touch primer pocket to get rid of red seal remnants so primer go in proper |
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