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Posted: 6/19/2015 10:27:52 PM EDT
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I have finally decided to get into reloading. Before I restrained from buying in because I wasn't sure if cost/price would pay off. I have been on the fence for years and am jumping in for the ability to ensure long-term access to ammo.
With that said, I need some advice on what to get. I'm definitely not looking to spend Dillon money, but could afford Hornady Lock and Load if it's worth the extra cash over a Lee. I would look to start off with 1000 rounds of 9mm, 556, 762, 40 and maybe 308 down the road. I haven't read a lot about RCBS. I imagine their all good, but with your experience - what would you suggest in my price range? Thanks for all your help! |
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Started with Lee single stage, then lee turret, then Hornady single stage, now Hornady LNL. Don't even waste your time looking at the lee progressive.
The LNL is an excellent press that has a few features I like much, much better than a Dillon (one of my best friends has one that I setup and have used extensively, I'm not a fan). I like the hornady priming system and powder feeder better, but like the Dillon case feeder better. Hornady loads cases/bullets from the left while dillon does cases from right and bullets from left (stupid if you ask me). Bottom line IMHO, the LNL makes an excellent press at a great price that will make ammo the same speed and probably more accurate than the Dillon 650 (no tool head with LNL). The die change-over may take 20 seconds more on the LNL but who really cares, that's a stupid point anyways... I think it's not really worth it for the dillon vs. the LNL, I see no benefit as there is nothing it can do better.. This is my opinion only, others will vary. I could have any press I want, I chose the LNL. This all assumes you want to reload bulk. If I was buying for precision/long range ammo, I would get the Redding T7 turret and some Redding or Forester dies. |
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762, as in 7.62x51? That is .308.
Hornady, RCBS or Lyman are all good to go single stage and basic turret presses and related equipment. I use mostly RCBS and Hornady dies. No need to go to Dillon unless you really plan to burn through ammo fast. Take your time and start slow, loading perhaps one rifle caliber, like 5.56/.223 until you feel comfortable with the safety and results (accuracy and velocity) of your reloads. Get a chrono. |
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I have finally decided to get into reloading. Before I restrained from buying in because I wasn't sure if cost/price would pay off. I have been on the fence for years and am jumping in for the ability to ensure long-term access to ammo. Cost/price can work out very well with discipline and volume. With that said, I need some advice on what to get. I'm definitely not looking to spend Dillon money, but could afford Hornady Lock and Load if it's worth the extra cash over a Lee. If your batch size approached 250, a Lee turret isn't a bad option. If your batch sizes are larger (or truly 1k), a progressive is in order. There's a big difference between pull/push the Lee lever 4,000 times, and a progressive 1,004 times for a 1k batch. Your choices are best confined to the LnL AP and the Dillon 650 IMO, as both are 5-hole presses which allows for more options in how you make ammo, including use of a powder check die. I would look to start off with 1000 rounds of 9mm, 556, 762, 40 and maybe 308 down the road. For precision and long-range rifle ammo, most folks prefer a single stage press. There are several good choices, RCBS Rockchucker, Forster Co-ax, LnL Classic among them. The Lee and the Hornady will both do a caliber changeover faster than the Dillon. The Dillon becomes more cost competitive if you add the rest of the bullet feeder, and it's also said to operate more smoothly than the Hornady. I haven't read a lot about RCBS. I imagine their all good, but with your experience - what would you suggest in my price range?RCBS has recently launched 2 new progressive presses. But they seem very expensive and are really untested/unreviewed at the moment.Not the time to take a chance IMO. Thanks for all your help! |
OP, I use almost all RCSB, I have found their stuff fairly priced and turns out quality rounds, reliably....I use Forester micrometer loading dies also...unless you are dead set on reloading mass amounts often, a single stage works better for someone new to reloading and is the normal tool for long-range stuff..heres my setup, it's pretty simple..old rockchucker press is used for depriming/sizing, the newer summit is used for bullet seating... if i could only have one, it would be the summit...
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I started out with a Hornady single stage. Added a Lee Breechlock single stage. I recently bought a Dillon 650 set up for 9mm.
If I had to start over, I'd get a Lee Classic Turret press for pistol and .223. Sure you still have to pull the handle four times, but you don't have to move brass back and forth. I'd probably stick with the Hornady for .308. Read online reviews of the products before you buy. Each manufacturer has good products and not so good products. ETA: the Dillon is the cat's pajamas for high volume loading. The progressive press does have a bit of a learning curve (and a steep price tag). I'm glad I started out with a single stage. Learning the basics was definitely easier on it versus having to diagnose issues in the progressive. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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I got into reloading 3 years ago. I did it for three reasons. First being to save a few bucks in the long haul. Second to be able to secure a supply of ammo during droughts. Lastly I enjoy tinkering so it is right up my alley.
I load for .223 only right now. I have tooling to do .45ACP, 9mm, 7.62x54R, .308 and .30-06. I started with an RCBS turret press. I quickly moved to a Hornady LnL AP progressive. For the .223 I was running the brass through the press too many times. We shoot 5-600 rounds per range trip. We try to go once a month. So it was too time consuming using a non-progressive press. I sold the turret press. With the LnL the brass makes 2 trips through the press. The first to size and trim the second to load. I plan to add a single stage to my bench very soon. I am ready to start load development for my M1 Garand. I will do the work up on the single stage and once I dial in the load I will run a bunch through the progressive. I am in the market for a single stage. I am looking at the Redding Big Boss II, Forster co-ax and Hornady. I am not a fan boy of any brand or color. I want what will do the best job for my needs. Here is my take on what to buy. If you are loading more than 200 round at a time you will want a progressive. I am very happy with the Hornady unit. At first I was not happy with the priming system. I took my time and polished the slide, added a slight chamfer to the primer hole and beveled the front edge lightly. Then took my time and put all the pieces back on paying attention to the setup. After that it works great. I spent maybe an hour at most doing this. I just added the case feeder last weekend. I can vouch for the Hornady. If you do go with a progressive I can tell you that you will want a single stage. |
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my recommendation would be to start with a Lee cast turret press. I had one, sold it when I moved on to full progressive presses and ended up back around and bought another one because they are just so handy to have. Certain calibers like .357, 38, 44mag, 45LC, 30-30, 444 marlin and other odd balls, where 200 rounds last me years. Its quick to change over, cheap tool heads and just works well for small production runs.
My advice is to start off small, and move up as needed. But go slow, learn to make quality ammo and just have fun with it. |
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I agree w/drfrogloegs and ARJJ.
The calibers you mention, aside from possibly .308 (semi-auto AR-19 pattern, precision bolt, hunting rifle, ??) and the quantity you mention (is that monthly, I'm guessing? Across all calibers, or each?) - points to pistol and bulk/quantity type ammo. You just couldn't pay me to load 9mm (or .223) in quantity on a single stage. Like drfroglegs, I own a LnL AP, and have friends w/Dillons. Dillon makes a solid press at a premium, but I'd never trade my LnL AP for a 4 station, manually indexed 550. I likely wouldn't trade it straight across for a 650, either, although I agree RE: case feeder - the LnL case feeder has less caliber specific parts, and can use a few relatively easy tweaks to make it run it's best, while I think the Dillon's case feeder out of box is a bit better. I'm not a big fan of the 650's priming system, while once you properly adjust the primer shuttle on the LnL and polish the slide a bit (sure would be nice to not 'need' to do out of the box, but all progressives require some adjustment and tweaks), it's solid and only dispenses primers with a case in place. In reality, it's sort of nitpicking at this point between the LnL AP and 650 - either one will put out great ammo. As a new reloader, for the calibers and quantities you mention, I'd put the minimum entry point at a Lee Classic Cast Turret, which you can also run as a single stage (and really should, while learning), a single stage that I can almost guarantee you'll outgrow quickly trying to do quantity (but will still have future use, for at least dedicated rifle sizing/de-priming), or look at a progressive IF you can honestly say that you're detail oriented, patient and careful. Before press considerations, you really need to pick up at least one reloading book, and read it cover to cover. The ABCs of Reloading is a good starting point, then something like a mfgr's manual, e.g. Hornady's 9th. Here's my usual press and tools list - regardless of press choice, it should give you an idea of 'everything' needed. Less than ~500rds/month: Lee Classic Cast Turret (not value turret) or LCT kit is tough to beat overall. YMMV. $110 press, $200 kit. I'd be buying the press + my own scale and other components, but YMMV; the kit gets you started, if not ideally, relatively cheaply. 500-1k/month: Progressive >1k/month: Progressive + case feeder My opinion only, blah blah blah. If you have more time on your hands, adjust the range count accordingly. For me, I'd be OK loading on a turret 5-600/month, but not much more. YMMV. Dillon 650 or LnL AP, $567 or ~$400-$450, assuming .223 + 9mm. I would take either the 650 or LnL AP over the 4 station, manually indexed 550. Those owning 550s will come in to tell you otherwise shortly. ;) The Dillon comes with one caliber minus dies ready to go, including one shellplate, toolhead and caliber specific pieces (locator buttons, casefeed body(drop tube), powder die + funnel, etc.). The LnL AP comes with 5 LnL bushings but no shellplate, but comes with both pistol and rifle powder measure drums and inserts. For your first caliber, you're ready to go on the Dillon once you add dies. For the LnL AP, you'll need a ~$30 shellplate and dies. Additional calibers: $50-$180 depending on choice + calibers Dillon requires caliber conversion kits or purchasing individual pieces (loading rifle is generally a good idea to have 2x toolheads per caliber, one for prep, and one for loading, so 3 total tool heads, 1x rifle prep, 1x rifle load, 1x pistol) If your caliber choices are .223 and 9mm, or a few other combinations, you may be able to use the same shellplate, locator buttons, casefeed body, leaving you to buy the casefeed plate (38.95), casefeed adapter (14.95), toolhead/powder die (~40) and the powder funnel (~15) for the second caliber conversion. ~$110 in this case, a bit more ($40 for shellplate + $30 for additional toolhead (for second rifle toolhead)) in other caliber combinations. Hornady LnL AP requires a ~$25-30 shellplate plus additional 2-4 LnL bushings at ~$4 each (if loading more than one caliber, just pick up a 10 pack for ~$40) Maybe consider a second PM or inserts. I use a dedicated Hornady PM for rifle, dedicated PM for pistol, then inserts or micrometer inserts for ultimate 'laziness' (haven't bought those yet, don't 'need' really, unless doing a lot of calibers, IMO) - $100 Dies for .223 and 9mm or other pistol - ~$100, Carbide dies for pistol (Lees are fine) + Factory crimp die, steel dies for rifle. Additional tools: OPTIONAL Add case feeder - $220 Dillon, $280 Hornady OPTIONAL small pistol and small rifle case feeder plates - Hornady and Dillon plates apparently interchange, Dillon gets $42 each but their feeder(collator) comes with one plate; can find Hornady plates for ~$30, sometimes less, so $40-$65 to cover small pistol + small rifle Dillon or Hornady. I've seen occasional Midway 'clearances' with the LnL plates for $25. Extra primer tubes, 4-5 ~$25 (small for .223 + 9mm) Primer tray - $5-$20 (I like the plastic square RCBS one for $5 because it fits the stupid big Federal primer trays, some of the round ones don't) OPTIONAL Roller handle for press, Dillon or Inline Fabrication(Dillon or LnL) $50-$75 OPTIONAL strong mount for either press, $50-$75 RCBS 505 scale (~$90) or GemPro 250 digital (~$120) or both. Can look on eBay for 505 or virtually any OHaus beam scale(must measure in grains, not grams) and get in for ~$50+ IDEAL: CTS motorized trimmer (~$325), Giraud (~$450 IIRC) PRETTY GOOD: WFT2/similar for $60-$70 - for trimming .223 brass after resize WORKS: various hand trimmers, from Lyman or RCBS down to Lee Zip trimmer Hand tools or trim mate pro + bits for chamfer/debur/uniformer, from $30-$140 Media tumbler - Dillon or Berrys, $50-$190. Berrys is relabeled for a few, runs ~50. Dillon has two sizes, CV750($145-~500 .38 or .45 capacity) or CV2001($190-~1300 .38 case capacity), the Berry's sits between the two; I've fit ~1k9mm in mine. Other options exist, same price range. A kit like this one is pretty good bang for the buck: http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00038502024 and includes the generic separator everyone sells. Walnut or cob media - pet store, agri-feed, etc. Add a cap of Nu-Finish car polish or similar (nothing with ammonia in it), and some cut up strips of used dryer sheets (or paper towels in a pinch) to increase polish, reduce dust, and keep your media lasting a bit longer/cleaner. OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Media Separator, $30-$75. You can go slightly cheaper at ~$30 for a generic Chinese separator that's re-branded for virtually everyone else, works well enough, but feels a bit flimsy. $50 for the Dillon CM500 (meant to accept full load from their smaller tumbler), or CM2000 for $75. Yes, you can use your wife's strainer or other methods. Nope, it just won't work as well as fast IMO as a separator. Short version - I'd buy the large Dillon doing it again. OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED FOR RIFLE: Hornady headspace comparator kit, $30 - rifle only. Use to measure brass fired through your specific rifle, then set your dies back a few thousands for sizing. Less working of brass vs using a generic case gage to set up sizing, but may lead to ammo that won't work in all of your guns w/out checking them all. 9mm and .223 gages, ~$50 calipers - $10 and up, Harbor Freight or Frankford Arsenal = good enough OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Larger sized akro-bins for output + hold bulk bullets - $20-$40 (can find individually or buy a case of them) OPTIONAL BUT DESIRED: Hornady LED light strip $15 - Inline fab sells 'super' light kits for $50+, or you can go eBay from China for $10. This one works fine for $15. Bullet puller, kinetic or collet $15-$30. Kinetic pullers work on most calibers and look like a translucent plastic hammer. Collet pullers use the press and can be a bit quicker, but need an insert per caliber Case lube - Even for pistol running carbide dies, I use a little bit of lube, as it smooths everything out nicely. A quick mist of One Shot aerosol into the 'ready to load' bin, load primer tubes, then brass is ready to go. I don't tumble the One Shot off, and one can can last 10k loads or more. For rifle, use Dillon lube or similar. Google 'homemade case lube' for the home-made version of DCL - basically ~12:1 99% alcohol to liquid lanolin, works well. MANDATORY One or more reloading books, e.g. ABCs of Reloading, + random second one, e.g. Hornady's 9th, etc.. |
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Quoted: I have finally decided to get into reloading. Before I restrained from buying in because I wasn't sure if cost/price would pay off. I have been on the fence for years and am jumping in for the ability to ensure long-term access to ammo. With that said, I need some advice on what to get. I'm definitely not looking to spend Dillon money, but could afford Hornady Lock and Load if it's worth the extra cash over a Lee. I would look to start off with 1000 rounds of 9mm, 556, 762, 40 and maybe 308 down the road. I haven't read a lot about RCBS. I imagine their all good, but with your experience - what would you suggest in my price range? Thanks for all your help! First decide on a budget. Some posters will suggest starting with an expensive progressive press, ignore those posts. Do some reading at the top of the page and buy a copy of ABC's of Reloading. This is the book for new reloaders, will explain the terms and equipment used in reloading. Until you know the reloading terms and something about the tools you will just be confused. Good luck. |
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Thanks for all the great insight!
What about sonic cleaning vs. media? Hornady precision reloading accessory kit worth it? Or should I purchase each piece seperately? Does buying the case and bullet feeders down the road and adding to the LNL differ any then purchasing the Ammo Plant? Because it appears to be all the same pieces but is about $100 cheaper to buy each piece vs. the AP press. |
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Forget sonic tumbling, go with wet tumbling. SS, stainless steel, is used along with Lemishine and Dawn. Post a link to the kit you want rated. See FAQ's at the top of the page for how to post a hot link. Dillon guy here, the Hornady guys can tell you about Hornady loaders. I am a fan of their reloading dies. |
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Hey, YellowJacket1799:
Reading the section at the top of the page gives you an idea of items to take into consideration when deciding on what this reloading business is all about. There are some really smart and helpful folks here on the forums. Once you decide on specific items you're thinking of purchasing, these folks can give you their opinions and experience with 'em. Around Christmas of last year, I was in your shoes. Although I wanted to have the ability to load ammunition in quantity - my decision was to learn all the steps involved to create ammunition that was accurate. Since the learning-curve seems overwhelming from the beginning, I chose to purchase a single-stage kit to begin. It contained the press, scale, powder-dispenser, and other items you actually use. If you plan to "re-load" - then, there are other items that have to be added to the equation. I chose wet-tubling for my brass and was suggested an item that ended up being one of my favorite things to use. If you plan to purchase once-fired brass, like military-brass, then you have to have the ability to remove the primer-crimp. There are a couple of directions to go with this, either reaming the primer pockets or swaging. Of course, then there is the topic of having the ability to trim your brass. Manual trimmers that look like a mini-lathe, or electric trimmers that can speed up the process are what you're looking at getting. We haven't even broached the subject of realoding dies, powder, primers, brass, or even bullets. As you can tell, this can add up rather quickly. Although it seems overwhelming, there is a real benefit once you accept the fact that the equipment is an initial cost. Once you begin the process of creating loads for your specific firearms, you will always have those recipes for "your" guns. Over time, you begin to find things that work for your needs. If you like to shoot at targets, then you can create loads that will be very accurate and consistent. If you like to hunt, then you can create loads that drop the game of your choice using whatever bullets work best for your particular appication. And, instead of going out to purchase a $30 - $50 box of 20 rounds for a specific purpose, you can sit down and create rounds that actually work better because they are developed for your guns. And, those loads will be substantially cheaper - like a fraction of the cost. In the beginning, it will cost more for developing loads for your guns, but - as mentioned earlier - once you have your proverbial "recipe" that works for you... you will always have it. After my first year is complete using the single-stage, I will look into upgrading to a turret. Once I learn all of the benefits using it, then I will finally go the route of a prograssive. Sure, I could just dive into a progressive - but, from what I've learned from reloading, so far - taking the time and patience necessary to figure it all out saves a lot of components. Good luck in finding what works for you. These are just my observations and opinions from the short amount of time reloading. Hope it give you a bit more of an understanding from a newbie's perspective. |
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None of the big name brands are anything less than superlative, whether RCBS, Dillon, Redding, Hornady, Forster, Lee. It's just some are tailored for a certain task or specific approach than others.
Buy the best you can afford the first time because they are all built to last several lifetimes. |
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Forget sonic tumbling, go with wet tumbling. SS, stainless steel, is used along with Lemishine and Dawn. Post a link to the kit you want rated. See FAQ's at the top of the page for how to post a hot link. Dillon guy here, the Hornady guys can tell you about Hornady loaders. I am a fan of their reloading dies. I think a small sonic cleaner has its place. It is a quick way to clean the inside of cases and primer pockets, and serves double duty as a handy way to clean all sorts of small parts, even jewelry. A few three minute cycles is all it takes. Then I throw the cases in a vibration corn cobb tumbler for a while as I do other things. These are inexpensive ways to clean, and simply work. |
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I think a small sonic cleaner has its place. It is a quick way to clean the inside of cases and primer pockets, and serves double duty as a handy way to clean all sorts of small parts, even jewelry. A few three minute cycles is all it takes. Then I throw the cases in a vibration corn cobb tumbler for a while as I do other things. These are inexpensive ways to clean, and simply work. Quoted:
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Forget sonic tumbling, go with wet tumbling. SS, stainless steel, is used along with Lemishine and Dawn. Post a link to the kit you want rated. See FAQ's at the top of the page for how to post a hot link. Dillon guy here, the Hornady guys can tell you about Hornady loaders. I am a fan of their reloading dies. I think a small sonic cleaner has its place. It is a quick way to clean the inside of cases and primer pockets, and serves double duty as a handy way to clean all sorts of small parts, even jewelry. A few three minute cycles is all it takes. Then I throw the cases in a vibration corn cobb tumbler for a while as I do other things. These are inexpensive ways to clean, and simply work. I'm with Dryflash on this one - sonic tumbling is of questionable value. If you're going to wet tumble, then wet tumble with stainless pins. The Frankford Arsenal wet tumbler setup is hard to beat for the $ in wet tumbling. If going to dry tumble, it works fine by itself, as well as being cheaper. I like the bling of wet tumbling, but dry tumbling does more than an adequate job, with less time and mess, and fewer steps. For a new reloader, I'd unequivocally recommend dry tumbling. RE: Ammo Plant - yes, it's the same as a LnL AP + case feeder + pistol bullet feeder. I don't disagree with the idea of getting a progressive as a first press, if someone is patient and truly detail-oriented, and considering the types of rounds/calibers to be loaded and quantities - but - there is no way I would recommend buying a progressive + case feeder + bullet feeder for a first time reloader. If buying a progressive as a first press, you really should be running initial 100+ rounds in single stage mode, slowly, ensuring you understand each step of the process, and I'd recommend loading a few thousand rounds before considering adding either a case feeder or bullet feeder - one, not both, before deciding if you want or 'need' the other at all. Start w/The ABCs of Reloading as several of us have mentioned, and the FAQs at the top of this forum, before buying anything else - then make a more informed decision, and ask specific questions, etc. |
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What RTPGUY said.
Start with a single stage press, and you'll learn how each loading step works. Once you have that down, moving to a progressive press simply puts all the steps together in one pull of the handle. While that's quicker, it's a LOT more stuff to keep up with at one time. Don't get (or at least don't install) a case feeder until you have some experience with how your progressive works. And then don't get a bullet feeder until you're smooth and consistent with loading using the case feeder. For what it's worth, there are a whole lot of things to pay attention to with each loading step, and it's easy to miss something small while watching something else - this is how I loaded some squibs and nearly blew up my 9mm AR carbine... Progressive loading takes a combination of experience with each loading step and an ability to monitor multiple issues without missing any of them. I strongly suggest progressing to a progressive (sorry for the pun) carefully and cautiously. |
| I've had a set of RCBS 7.62x39 die since around 1990 or so.. sometime you find x39 reloadable brass somebody shot and left at range.. I been cleaning up all the yellow x39 I find, and sort it at home.. see WIN cases still popping up,, likely out of old stash, find some FC and R-P randomly.. watch the R-P brass, it got small primer in it. |
| In my opinion, pick a ss press. I started with a Lee cast and still use it for things like sizing. No loss of money in my opinion. A kit is OK, but not best option. Buy a good mechanical scale. Lee works, but hard to work with.... pick a caliber. 9mm isn't always the easiest to learn, if maybe start with 40. Forgot about the 7.62x39, almost impossible to get brass unless you have been shooting and saving. Get good with the first caliber and then add one at a time. If you get to shooting enough, then get a progressive press. If you find out that you don't want to reload, you can get out with little loss. |
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my recommendation would be to start with a Lee cast turret press. I had one, sold it when I moved on to full progressive presses and ended up back around and bought another one because they are just so handy to have. Certain calibers like .357, 38, 44mag, 45LC, 30-30, 444 marlin and other odd balls, where 200 rounds last me years. Its quick to change over, cheap tool heads and just works well for small production runs. My advice is to start off small, and move up as needed. But go slow, learn to make quality ammo and just have fun with it. +1 The turret press is very versatile where a progressive is not. Primer swaging or bullet pulling for example can be done on turret. ETA: well, more easily. I'd hate to pull bullets with the loadmaster. The turret can turn out 100-150 rds an hour. Cheap, fast, good pick 2 certainly applies to reloading. |
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Thanks for all the great insight! What about sonic cleaning vs. media? I'm also with Flash (as mostly with everything he says lol). IMO . . . small batch sizes, expensive solutions, often multiple cleaning cycles, so-so cleaning. And if you don't wet your brass, you don't have to dry it :) or be there when it is done. So if you can dry tumble (particularly outdoors which avoids ANY dust issues), go with walnut media from the pet store (lizard bedding), a cheap tumbler, and a media separator. Maybe add an outlet timer to shut it off. Otherwise I'd go with stainless steel pins and a water-holding tumbler. And some way to dry the brass :) Hornady precision reloading accessory kit worth it? Or should I purchase each piece seperately? Looking at that kit, IMO there are better options for several pieces: Concentricity Tool: Decent tool, but you will not be into concentricity checking for quite some time if ever. Cam Lock Trimmer, Power Adaptor, Case Prep Trio: These tools are OK, but there are lots of ways to do these rifle-oriented jobs, even buying just the bits and using your own drill. Comparator Set and Headspace Kit: Very useful, and these are the tools are most often recommended. Steel Dial Caliper: While I recommend everyone have a beam scale, and not bother buying a digital scale under $600, I don't recommend dial calipers. Digital calipers are just as inexpensive, accuracy is fine, and there are no human errors reading the dial. $30 tops :) Does buying the case and bullet feeders down the road and adding to the LNL differ any then purchasing the Ammo Plant? Because it appears to be all the same pieces but is about $100 cheaper to buy each piece vs. the AP press. I very *STRONGLY* recommend you only add the case and bullet feeders after you've got your press up and running . . . if you decide you want them. The case feeder is a terrific addition to the AP, but it is one more setup/adjustment/changeover issue. The bullet feeder takes up a die position, is not nearly as valuable speed-wise on a Hornady Press. and is yet another setup/changeover issue. And you may want/need to use that die position for something else, so learn a bit first. Hope that helps a bit. |
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