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Posted: 4/18/2015 11:25:04 PM EDT
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I am looking to finally start reloading, I have been lurking here and reading the tacked threads for a while. I have started slowly collecting the tools/components needed and was hoping you guys can let me know if I am missing anything. I plan on loading 223, then 147gr 9mm, then 45, then 357 sig, then 308. as i figure out each one i will move on... I was gifted an old lee single stage that was not in the best of shape, I plan on using that specifically to decap 223 prior to tumbling, I have also contemplated sizing off the turret after an initial tumbling and then adding a powder cop to my 223 turret.
I already ordered or own the items in () Prep (Frankford Tumbler) (Case Length Gage) (Worlds Finest Case Trimmer) (Lee Universal Decapping Die) (Media Separator) Loading Blocks Lubricating Pad Loading Lee Turret Press Kit Lee 3 Die - 223 Rifle Charging Die Double Disk Kit Frankford Bullet Puller Manual (Lyman 49th) and the kit comes with another 1st load (55gr FMJBT) (H335 Powder) (CCI 450 Primers) several thousand rounds of mixed brass i have saved, some with crimped primers some without, I will purchase a Dillon Super Swage at a future time to make use of the crimped brass. I will be moving on to 77gr loads in the future for my mk12 but i wanted to start with a 223 plinking load. each new cartridge will get Quick change Turret Lee Auto Disk Appropriate dies Auto Disk Riser and of course new powders, primers, and bullets I am sure i will upgrade much of this in the future as i figure out my needs however I thought a turret would be a good in between starting point between a single stage and the eventual dillon 550. my question is, if i had all the items listed could i reload 223 tomorrow? if not what do i need? Thanks, -Mike |
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If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 |
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Quoted:
If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike |
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Quoted: do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike Quoted: Quoted: If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike |
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Quoted: do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike Quoted: Quoted: If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike Welcome to our hobby.  I have used CCI 400 and Win SR for years with no problems. The key is proper primer seating. They should be .002 to .005 below the case head. (just look at a factory round) If primers are seated high, it's possible I guess to get a slam fire, or the round will not go off. As the first primer strike fully seats the primer and another hit will fire it. So if you load once fired LC or other mil cases, you will have to remove the primer crimp after decapping. So you will need a primer crimp removal tool. Are you on the wet or dry side? Wet side here. |
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I only use the 41s. Quoted:
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If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike |
| Calipers, you will find them extremely helpful. Also consider finding yourself a mentor. You could possibly find one in the WA HTF. Good luck, and be safe. Sometimes one error could be one too many. And think about getting The ABC's of reloading, there is never a time when you have too much information. |
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Quoted:
Calipers, you will find them extremely helpful. Also consider finding yourself a mentor. You could possibly find one in the WA HTF. Good luck, and be safe. Sometimes one error could be one too many. And think about getting The ABC's of reloading, there is never a time when you have too much information. I think they come in the press kit? Hopefully it's a whole reloading kit. If not you need a scale too, and might want a funnel. |
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Quoted:
Welcome to our hobby.
I have used CCI 400 and Win SR for years with no problems. The key is proper primer seating. They should be .002 to .005 below the case head. (just look at a factory round) If primers are seated high, it's possible I guess to get a slam fire, or the round will not go off. As the first primer strike fully seats the primer and another hit will fire it. So if you load once fired LC or other mil cases, you will have to remove the primer crimp after decapping. So you will need a primer crimp removal tool. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head what I suggest. $9 Are you on the wet or dry side? Wet side here. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you are reloading the 223 for an AR I would use these primers. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1301170074/cci-small-rifle-military-primers-41 do the 450s have issues with slam fires? while researching i have seen the military primers but i also saw most people using 400s of 450s -Mike Welcome to our hobby.
I have used CCI 400 and Win SR for years with no problems. The key is proper primer seating. They should be .002 to .005 below the case head. (just look at a factory round) If primers are seated high, it's possible I guess to get a slam fire, or the round will not go off. As the first primer strike fully seats the primer and another hit will fire it. So if you load once fired LC or other mil cases, you will have to remove the primer crimp after decapping. So you will need a primer crimp removal tool. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head what I suggest. $9 Are you on the wet or dry side? Wet side here. A pocket reamer will definitely be one of the things i grab next, I did some sorting last night and realized just how many crimped primers i have. I am on the wet side, I live in Port Orchard. -Mike |
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I think they come in the press kit? Hopefully it's a whole reloading kit. If not you need a scale too, and might want a funnel. Quoted:
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Calipers, you will find them extremely helpful. Also consider finding yourself a mentor. You could possibly find one in the WA HTF. Good luck, and be safe. Sometimes one error could be one too many. And think about getting The ABC's of reloading, there is never a time when you have too much information. I think they come in the press kit? Hopefully it's a whole reloading kit. If not you need a scale too, and might want a funnel. the scale does come with the kit, and i have an older beam as a backup as well I already have a set of calipers, forgot to add that to the list. I also have a 5-6 year old copy of abc's of reloading, but i haven't read that is years. I have been contemplating getting started in this for a while, just never put it all together. I will poke around and see if there are some local guys to give me advice and maybe a little tuteledge where i need it. I am aware of the consequences of even one mistake, I consider myself a pretty cautious guy and I am used to following procedures to the letter at my job (navy nuke) I just have to keep myself in the right mentality with no distractions especially when starting out to carry that over to this. -Mike |
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By ''wet side'' he meant tumbling with stainless steel pins in a drum filled with water, Lemishine and detergent.
''Dry side'' is tumbling with a vibratory tumbler with corncob or walnut. It looks like you have almost everything you need. You should get a good balance beam scale, calipers, and a chamfer/deburr tool if the WFT doesn't have one. |
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By ''wet side'' he meant tumbling with stainless steel pins in a drum filled with water, Lemishine and detergent. ''Dry side'' is tumbling with a vibratory tumbler with corncob or walnut. It looks like you have almost everything you need. You should get a good balance beam scale, calipers, and a chamfer/deburr tool if the WFT doesn't have one. In that case i am sticking with a dry tumbler. In WA we use "wet side" to describe west of the cascades where the shadowing effect makes it a constantly rainy vs the "dry side" which is the east side of the state where it is relatively dry by comparison. -Mike |
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Quoted: In that case i am sticking with a dry tumbler. In WA we use "wet side" to describe west of the cascades where the shadowing effect makes it a constantly rainy vs the "dry side" which is the east side of the state where it is relatively dry by comparison. -Mike Quoted: Quoted: By ''wet side'' he meant tumbling with stainless steel pins in a drum filled with water, Lemishine and detergent. ''Dry side'' is tumbling with a vibratory tumbler with corncob or walnut. It looks like you have almost everything you need. You should get a good balance beam scale, calipers, and a chamfer/deburr tool if the WFT doesn't have one. In that case i am sticking with a dry tumbler. In WA we use "wet side" to describe west of the cascades where the shadowing effect makes it a constantly rainy vs the "dry side" which is the east side of the state where it is relatively dry by comparison. -Mike We are not too far apart, if you want to get together and see reloading in action. Please use IM for further conversation on this subject. Opsec and all. |
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Calipers, you will find them extremely helpful.Also consider finding yourself a mentor.You could possibly find one in the WA HTF. Good luck, and be safe. Sometimes one error could be one too many. And think about getting The ABC's of reloading, there is never a time when you have too much information. Good advice Began this hobby nearly two years (?) ago and like many, I only had books and the internet (specifically here) and no one else Just recently found a guy that's a vast storehouse of knowledge and experience and willing to help me with questions Though he often reiterates what I've read before (with of course, new info), him simply affirming, emphasizing and categorizing the most important aspects of it takes so much of the guess work out of it all |
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