Armory Sponsor
Posted: 4/17/2015 12:47:41 PM EDT
|
I kinda asked about this in another thread thread, but thought I would ask it in my own so not to take away from the OP...
I've been reloading for almost 20 years and have always just used data from reloading manuals without trying to understand why certain powders would be better than others. The main 2 properties I see are their burn rates and the physical structure of them... but what does this mean? I hear burn rates talked about all the time and understand fast and slow, but that's the extent of my understanding of it. Any good "Powder 101" recommended reading? Some of the things I would like to know are which powders: produce less flash meter well are less sensitive to temperature swings are cleaner produce less recoil I hope I'm making sense. Just want to understand powder a little better. |
|
I can tell you this about RECOIL in semi-automatic pistols:
-a FAST BURNING powder with a heavy bullet produces the lowest PERCEIVED recoil, allowing for a faster follow up shot. Notice the emphasis on the word "PERCEIVED" (I meant to shout that). Physicists can point to formulas, laws, etc. All other factors the same, a lighter bullet, a lower velocity, or BOTH produce less recoil, according to theoretical physics. But in a semi-auto handgun, there are other factors to consider, including the reciprocating slide, slide velocity, and something that Rob Leatham dubbed the "jet effect." Suffice to say, if your goal is to reduce perceived recoil, increase bullet weight and use a faster powder. For example, in 9mm I stick to 147 grn or 160 grain bullets (and I have gone as high as 180 grains. In 9mm. 9mm Luger). For 40 S&W, I usually use 200 grain bullets, though never lighter than 180 grains. Typically I use Solo 1000 powder. Please note: adding a compensator to a semi auto changes everything. Also note that IF you feel the need for the highest velocity, the safe way to do that is follow your reloading manual's recipe using a slower powder. |
|
Quoted:
You looking for rifle or pistol discussion? What caliber(s) primarily? Really, a discussion of powders in general. I load everything from 9mm wimpy plinking rounds to fairly heavy 44 magnum loads. I also load cowboy action loads for 38 and 45LC as well as 357Sig. Rifle - 223, 243, 30-30, 7mm, 300wsm, 308... Dominion - That's interesting. I have never heard that and always assumed that lighter bullets equaled less felt recoil. I mainly use 147 subs since the majority of my shooting is done suppressed. |
|
Quoted:
produce less flash meter well are less sensitive to temperature swings are cleaner produce less recoil I've never seen flash ratings but I know some are better than others. The best way to test this is to shoot at night. This is greatly influenced by the firearm and the loading used. For example, a heavy charge behind a light bullet out of a revolver will result in massive flash. Another example, a long barreled rifle produces less flash than a short barrel. Of course, a flash suppessor or muzzle brake helps tame flash. Ball powders meter better than extruded. Flake powders meter reasonably well but are vulnerable to static electricity issues. Powders that are less sensitive to temperature variations are advertised as such. Hodgdon's Extreme Powder line are all in the "less sensitive" category. IMO, this is grossly over-rated as a criteria but if it comes without trading off other important characteristics, go for it. Cleaner is a funny criteria. Some powders leave your firearm cleaner but produce more smoke when shot. Others produce less smoke but leave a lot of gunk on/in your firearm. Some powders leave less residue in the barrel but it is hard to remove. Others leave the barrel really gunky but it is easy to remove. IMO, clean your barrel at the range or ASAP. Try to at least wet the bore before leaving the range (even if you don't clean it, get it wet). The longer you leave the residue in the barrel, the harder it is to remove. Recoil is a difficult topic because it involves human perception as much as it involves Newton's Laws of motion. Both of these factors are affected by the firearm and shooter skill/training, as much as it is the bullet and powder charge.. |
| Honestly you'd need a degree in physics and chemistry to fully understand all of it. Metering has more to do with the shape and size of the powder. Less flash is either a product of the weapon/powder interaction or the amount of flash suppressant (if any) in the powder. Cleaner, I believe, would be a function of how much carbon black is added at the initial production or coating stage in powder. I'm not 100% on temperature stability.its either the principles of single base/double base powder or an added stabilizer, I'm not sure. Recoil is typically a function of the entire loaded round and the weapon. It's all about pressure spikes and tension -the forces at work. I am not an expert, nor an authority on this though. I work for Alliant Powder, but I am no longer on the production side of things. |
|
Some of the info you request can vary wildly. For example W231 for 45 ACP is pretty dirty when loaded in light charges but much cleaner when loading toward the top of the charge limit.
In 223, I can say ball powders (like 335) produce much more flash than stick powders (like IMR 4895) Heavy bullets with fast powders do generate less perceived recoil. For example, Clays or Titegoup under a 200 grain bullet in 40 S&W seem to have less recoil than W231 at the same velocity under the same bullet. Ball powders meter like dry sand but flake powders need more attention to meter well in nearly all powder droppers. Most stick powders are very hard to meter consistently in any dropper. |
Armory Sponsor