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Posted: 12/30/2014 3:27:20 PM EDT
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I just bought a Full auto M16 and am wondering what special precautions must be taken (if any). I have experience reloading .223/5.56 ammo for plinking with my AR15 so we can skip the basics of reloading here.
Ive purchased a crimping die to help with bullet retention. Is there anything i need to worry about? maybe weigh the rounds to make sure they all have a full load of powder to prevent squid loads? |
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nothing different than loading quality match ammo. However since the consequences of ammo related failure escalate with full auto rates of fire, the attention to detail needs to be higher.
I would use nothing other than Lake City Brass and military primers along with crimping the rounds and checking them carefully. I loaded for full autos for many years. No magic, just good sound methods. |
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Crimpers is not easily accomplished with tools available to the home reloader. At times Graf's and other vendors have had pull down brass with crimped primers...
Pretty much a no brainer...good solid reloading procedures...do use brass with loose primer pockets or loose necks.......I have been around a guy with several 45ACP SMG's and the ammo is all coming off old star reloader...230gr LRN WLP and some Bullseye....The belt fed 1919 get fed with Dillon 1050 and 150gr FMJ/147gr FMJ pull down powders....His winter time....is reloading time! Quoted:
What about crimped primers? |
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Quoted:
Crimp bullets, use powder check (squib will make for a bad day with a $20k pony) Squibs rarely push the bolt back to eject or cock the hammer. Always visually check the chamber on fail to fires. Check the bore on failure to ejects. I had a squib on a factory round the other day. Knew it was a squib by the light pop. (Wasn't FA) |
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I think loading lighter for reduced wear and tear for rifle caliber mg's is a good idea. Also increases the safety factor in case of a head separation and reduces the risk of an over charge.
Overcharge is the worst case scenario with a registered receiver M-16 due to risk of damage to the lower. There is no reason to be loading to 5.56 pressure when a mild 223 load will run fine. Don't worry about accuracy either for obvious reasons. Just function. |
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Quoted:
Squibs rarely push the bolt back to eject or cock the hammer. Always visually check the chamber on fail to fires. Check the bore on failure to ejects. I had a squib on a factory round the other day. Knew it was a squib by the light pop. (Wasn't FA) Quoted:
Quoted:
Crimp bullets, use powder check (squib will make for a bad day with a $20k pony) Squibs rarely push the bolt back to eject or cock the hammer. Always visually check the chamber on fail to fires. Check the bore on failure to ejects. I had a squib on a factory round the other day. Knew it was a squib by the light pop. (Wasn't FA) Good point. Didn't think about that as my only squib to date was many moons ago. |
I think biggest scare with reloading for MGs is with open bolt/blowback operated guns. With these guns, a squib will still cycle the bolt back, feed the next round, and fire it. Unfortunately I know this because it happened to my M11/9. I am VERY cautious when loading 9mm now. 
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COLT M16A1 carbine- FL resize, control shoulder bump, use 223 data. My problems were traced back to a shell plate that was different at each station, causing case separations in the body. Shoulder set back was as much as .014" The 2nd mistake was washing/cleaning brass in the old NRA vinegar formula, (dezincification) then putting ammo away for storage. Necks became brittle and broke off in the chamber on firing years later. Primers- use magnum or military, not CCI400 or Rem 6 1/2 or these.  or you get this.  Neck left in chamber.  Sold my M16 before it got damaged, besides no place left to shoot full auto around here anymore. Semi-auto no fun now. Colt Photos
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