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Posted: 11/17/2014 2:26:16 PM EDT
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I'm building a 300 blk to shoot supers.
What is a good cheap plinking bullet? I want to feed this rifle nothing but reloads. Thanks. |
| I shoot 147 gr. M80 pulled military surplus bullets with 15.5-16.6 grains of H110 for about 1950 fps for my plinking load. Search for 147 M80 bullets and prices are $145-$195 per thousand. Lots use Hornady's 150 FMJ's for plinking. My other loads use Hornady 110 V-Max and Nosler 125 BT's. |
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Do they lead up your gun ? nope, their a coated bullet |
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I'm building a 300 blk to shoot supers. What is a good cheap plinking bullet? I want to feed this rifle nothing but reloads. Thanks. Buy a 230gr lee mold, cast your own, powder coat them.. Almost free for bullets and you can shoot subs. There are more and more people doing this with either powder coated or Hi-tek coated bullets. If you just want a plinking load, I use the 150gr Hornady SP as well. They're dirt cheap and feed great for me. I have noted with my 10rd mag when it is fully loaded it occasionally binds the first round, but that could just be the mag? |
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If I were getting into it now I might think about waiting for M80 pulled bullets
to come back down in price. They were there for the taking a $100 or $125 per K prior to Sandy Hook. Some guys were using pulled 123gr 7.62 x 39 pills which were even cheaper. For now whatever you can find that doesn't break the bank. |
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What load data do you use for these? |
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Quoted: These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? |
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What load data do you use for these? 17gr of 4227 |
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I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? Quoted:
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These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? some people have problems with them, had a buddy gave up on them |
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Quoted: some people have problems with them, had a buddy gave up on them Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? some people have problems with them, had a buddy gave up on them that was my fear and with my luck I'd end up with 499 unusable bullets lol. thx |
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that was my fear and with my luck I'd end up with 499 unusable bullets lol. thx Quoted:
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These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? some people have problems with them, had a buddy gave up on them thx I'll give them a try sometime as there are folks having good luck with them |
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17gr of 4227 Is that 4227 is that ball or stick powder, I found some locally Or how does it meter ? |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? They feed fine if the OAL is correct. I would give you that figure, but I'm not near my notes at the moment. |
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My vote goes to cast, even better if you cast them yourself. And powder coating for the win. I originally started casting just for 300blk subs, but now cast for almost everything I shoot.
230g Lee's, the Green loaded are 249g. My seater stem needs to be modded slightly for the Lee's though 
And even cheaper if you can recover the lead 
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My vote goes to cast, even better if you cast them yourself. And powder coating for the win. I originally started casting just for 300blk subs, but now cast for almost everything I shoot. 230g Lee's, the Green loaded are 249g. My seater stem needs to be modded slightly for the Lee's though http://www.esstac.com/pictures/bullets/lee%20300aac.JPG http://www.esstac.com/pictures/lee%20230%20puke.JPG And even cheaper if you can recover the lead http://www.esstac.com/pictures/bullets/scrap%20lead.JPG How are you catching your lead? Mine disappears into the side of the hill 
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... Some guys were using pulled 123gr 7.62 x 39 pills which were even cheaper. I have seen a cpl guys on Armslist selling 123 gr. B/O ammo awfully cheap which made me suspicous, as 123 gr. is not a standard weight for .308" bullets. After contacting them they admitted they were loading them with 7.62x39mm pulls. This is conceivably a good option, just keep in mind that the russian bullets are .002"-.004" larger diameter than U.S. .30 cal bullets (.310"/.311" instead of .308"). You could swage them to squeeze them down but this would pretty well ruin any minute amount of accuracy potential they started with. I would be very wary of using them without being sized. |
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<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg</a> I also use the Lee 155 gr 2R bullet sized to .310. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Casting/PA280270.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Casting/PA280270.jpg</a> Those have quite the sheen to them. Are you adding a good deal of tin? |
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Quoted: Those have quite the sheen to them. Are you adding a good deal of tin? Quoted: Quoted: <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg</a> I also use the Lee 155 gr 2R bullet sized to .310. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Casting/PA280270.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Casting/PA280270.jpg</a> Those have quite the sheen to them. Are you adding a good deal of tin? I'm of the school that believes bullet fit is way more important than hardness.
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| I'm shooting these over 8.0 grains Lil Gun seated to 1.875" OAL. Feed, function well at 1000 FPS from my 10.5". |
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How are you catching your lead? Mine disappears into the side of the hill Built a plywood box and filled it with rubber mulch from Lowes. 16" X 16" x 24", I need to remake it and do it a bit longer as my 300subs smack the back of the box now and then(or add a steal plate to it). |
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Mixture of wheel weights and some unknown alloy I was given. Most likely wheel weights. I'm of the school that believes bullet fit is way more important than hardness. Quoted:
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<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/300%20Blk/P3310569_zps77fbcf4a.jpg</a> I also use the Lee 155 gr 2R bullet sized to .310. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Casting/PA280270.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Casting/PA280270.jpg</a> Those have quite the sheen to them. Are you adding a good deal of tin? I'm of the school that believes bullet fit is way more important than hardness. Antimony is added to lead. Just a small chunk to a pot of lead. My Dad would cast his own 38 spl and used wheel weights he picked up from a car dealership and a small chuck of Antimony. Antimony 5lbs would last you a long time. I've been loading these and they feed/function fine, but still working on accuracy issues. 110gr 30 Carbine |
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How are you powder coating your own bullets? Quoted:
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My vote goes to cast, even better if you cast them yourself. And powder coating for the win. How are you powder coating your own bullets? The same way you do jig heads I assume. Roll them in powder when they're hot. |
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How are you powder coating your own bullets? Quoted:
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My vote goes to cast, even better if you cast them yourself. And powder coating for the win. How are you powder coating your own bullets? If you get the right powder you can just shake them in the powder and the powder will cling, then you bake them to cure it. Or if you want really pretty boolits you powder coat them like you would any other metal. More time consuming, but looks beautiful! 
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How are you powder coating your own bullets? Quoted:
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My vote goes to cast, even better if you cast them yourself. And powder coating for the win. How are you powder coating your own bullets? My link to the 300blk master thread where I have a few pictures of my setup. I tumble the bullets for 2-3minutes then bake for 15minutes at 375. Most of the powder I have says 10min at 375. |
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I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? Quoted:
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These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? They fed in my M1 and my DPMS LR308 no problem. Now I am thinking about the 300BLK. |
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They fed in my M1 and my DPMS LR308 no problem. Now I am thinking about the 300BLK. Quoted:
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These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. I was looking at these during my last order, but wasn't sure about the flat point and how they would feed in an AR upper? They fed in my M1 and my DPMS LR308 no problem. Now I am thinking about the 300BLK. I just ordered 500 of them. Dry flash what is the coal of them ? |
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The way to determine OAL with any bullet in 300 blk is simple. Determine (caliper) on the bullet ogive where .250 is and mark it with a Sharpie. Seat bullet so that the .250 mark is centered on the front bump in an AR mag. Done, measure OAL and write it down. I got this method by reading AAC's (originator of the 300 blk) website. I did the above and come out with 1.860, which worked perfect.
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The way to determine OAL with any bullet in 300 blk is simple. Determine (caliper) on the bullet ogive where .250 is and mark it with a Sharpie. Seat bullet so that the .250 mark is centered on the front bump in an AR mag. Done, measure OAL and write it down. I got this method by reading AAC's (originator of the 300 blk) website. I did the above and come out with 1.860, which worked perfect. Ok Google is my friend. When you measure to get your .250 , Are you measuring from the bottom of the bullet or the top |
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Ok Google is my friend. When you measure to get your .250 , Are you measuring from the bottom of the bullet or the top Quoted:
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The way to determine OAL with any bullet in 300 blk is simple. Determine (caliper) on the bullet ogive where .250 is and mark it with a Sharpie. Seat bullet so that the .250 mark is centered on the front bump in an AR mag. Done, measure OAL and write it down. I got this method by reading AAC's (originator of the 300 blk) website. I did the above and come out with 1.860, which worked perfect. Ok Google is my friend. When you measure to get your .250 , Are you measuring from the bottom of the bullet or the top You're measuring the ogive. Do yourself a favor and invest in a bullet comparator set (Hornady, sinclair, etc). It measures the length of the bullet to the ogive for a more accurate measurement of ammo OAL. Measuring from the ogive to the base of the brass takes out any variations in the tip of the bullet, you are essentially measuring from the base of the case to where the bullet will eventually come into contact with the barrel (when fired). This is why different bullets have different OAL measurements, but they will all (usually) have around the same length from base to ogive. This is what dryflash is saying, you measure so that every style of bullet has the same base-to-ogive length and you will be fine. He is suggesting that length is 1.860" for 300 blackout (I have not measured it yet). In the picture below if you line up all the ogives you will see the length of the bullets (and thus loaded ammo) are different with the shorter bullets being seated to a shorter depth. If you go through your reloading handbook you will see this is a common trend. What this picture is showing (I think) is that if you load all the bullets to the same total length, the ogive of the shorter bullet will make it too long to chamber. In other words, when you chamber the round the ogive will cram itself into the lands on the short bullet, but will not on the longer bullet (because it's ogive is further down). 
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Quoted: Dry flash you just made me feel dumb. I have no idea what that means Sorry, was just trying to give you the knowledge to figure out OAL for 300 blk with future bullets. (Remember you can Google any terms you may not know) like ogive. I have a pic of a bullet in a mag, but it gets stolen and puts my account over bandwidth. So I no longer post it. Thanks to all the folks that explained the procedure before I came back to this thread. 
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Thank you Dryflash I did learn something from it. I stayed up way too late last night reading. Between this site and castboolits.com my reloading knowledge has significantly increased over the past couple of years. Also note, the powder coated cast boolits are safe to shoot in a suppressor! That is my motivation to do it instead of just normal gas checked boolits, like you would usually use in rifle. |
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Between this site and castboolits.com my reloading knowledge has significantly increased over the past couple of years. Also note, the powder coated cast boolits are safe to shoot in a suppressor! That is my motivation to do it instead of just normal gas checked boolits, like you would usually use in rifle. Quoted:
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Thank you Dryflash I did learn something from it. I stayed up way too late last night reading. Between this site and castboolits.com my reloading knowledge has significantly increased over the past couple of years. Also note, the powder coated cast boolits are safe to shoot in a suppressor! That is my motivation to do it instead of just normal gas checked boolits, like you would usually use in rifle. I've got to build the gun first, the parts are on a truck somewhere. 1500 for a suppressor this close to Christmas is too much to spend . But look out come march. |
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I've got to build the gun first, the parts are on a truck somewhere. 1500 for a suppressor this close to Christmas is too much to spend . But look out come march. Quoted:
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Thank you Dryflash I did learn something from it. I stayed up way too late last night reading. Between this site and castboolits.com my reloading knowledge has significantly increased over the past couple of years. Also note, the powder coated cast boolits are safe to shoot in a suppressor! That is my motivation to do it instead of just normal gas checked boolits, like you would usually use in rifle. I've got to build the gun first, the parts are on a truck somewhere. 1500 for a suppressor this close to Christmas is too much to spend . But look out come march. Or you could spend $200 on a tax stamp and $100 on a "cleaning solvent trap" and build your own? A lot faster too, form 1s are running about a month while form 4s are at least 5-6 months. There is a long thread on this in the suppressor forum... But I digress... 150 gr Hornady bulk 2k pack is about the cheapest you will find for any 30 caliber rifle unless you go plated, coated, or hard cast boolits. It's all in what you want to shoot and how much you want to invest in the art of bullet making... |
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Or you could spend $200 on a tax stamp and $100 on a "cleaning solvent trap" and build your own? A lot faster too, form 1s are running about a month while form 4s are at least 5-6 months. There is a long thread on this in the suppressor forum... But I digress... 150 gr Hornady bulk 2k pack is about the cheapest you will find for any 30 caliber rifle unless you go plated, coated, or hard cast boolits. It's all in what you want to shoot and how much you want to invest in the art of bullet making... Quoted:
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Thank you Dryflash I did learn something from it. I stayed up way too late last night reading. Between this site and castboolits.com my reloading knowledge has significantly increased over the past couple of years. Also note, the powder coated cast boolits are safe to shoot in a suppressor! That is my motivation to do it instead of just normal gas checked boolits, like you would usually use in rifle. I've got to build the gun first, the parts are on a truck somewhere. 1500 for a suppressor this close to Christmas is too much to spend . But look out come march. Or you could spend $200 on a tax stamp and $100 on a "cleaning solvent trap" and build your own? A lot faster too, form 1s are running about a month while form 4s are at least 5-6 months. There is a long thread on this in the suppressor forum... But I digress... 150 gr Hornady bulk 2k pack is about the cheapest you will find for any 30 caliber rifle unless you go plated, coated, or hard cast boolits. It's all in what you want to shoot and how much you want to invest in the art of bullet making... It would be cool to make one. But wouldn't know where to start. I'm not going to make my own bullets. Too many hobbies. |
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Quoted: These .308 150gr Flat Points work great: http://www.xtremebullets.com/308-s/48051.htm Box of 500 for $51 and they run free shipping deals from time to time. +1 I use them as reduced velocity plinking bullets in 30WCF (30-30), 300 Savage, and .308. At 10ยข per bullet, they are cheap, reasonably accurate out at 200yds, and as they are plated so no leading or coating issues. |
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