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Posted: 11/5/2014 6:47:21 PM EDT
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Overflowing with rifle and pistol rounds, I have now turned to reloading shotshells after picking up a MEC 650 for $50 at a garage sale. Spent two weeks securing all components and im ready to go.
A few questions for the shotshell reloaders in here. Load will be used for yotes in close range mixed cover. Rifle for long range, but those sneaky bastards like to slip in behind me on occasion when im squirreled away on the edge of cover. Load data pulled from BPI buckshot manual. Load ID: BKL130220-4617 12 ga.- 2 3/4 Hull- Federal PB (plastic bottom) primer- Fed 209A powder- 22grns. Green dot Wad- CSD078 (slit) Filler wad- 14fw20 in base. (20 ga.) Shot- #4 buckshot NP (nickel plate) shot weight - 497 grns or roughly 27 pellets 6-point crimp 11000 psi / 1300 fps Question #1 - Do you wash your hulls or just wipe down the outside? Question #2 - How many slits would you put in the wad for 20-30 yard range, or 40-50 yard range ? Question #3- Federal makes two plastic bottom shells. One is just plastic, the other is a integrated plastic bottom. Im well aware of the difference in the shape of the plastic bottom and that of the integrated bottom. BPI confirms that either one can be used without a change to components or charge. Has anybody used and seen a difference in the patterns of the two shells ? Question #4 - Which do you prefer to reload using new hulls between RIO or Fiocchi for small game shot loads? Does one get more reloads or have a better primer? Question #5 - Why cant I find more data on roll crimp loads ? |
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Quoted:
Overflowing with rifle and pistol rounds, I have now turned to reloading shotshells after picking up a MEC 650 for $50 at a garage sale. Spent two weeks securing all components and im ready to go. A few questions for the shotshell reloaders in here. Load will be used for yotes in close range mixed cover. Rifle for long range, but those sneaky bastards like to slip in behind me on occasion when im squirreled away on the edge of cover. Load data pulled from BPI buckshot manual. Load ID: BKL130220-4617 12 ga.- 2 3/4 Hull- Federal PB (plastic bottom) primer- Fed 209A powder- 22grns. Green dot Wad- CSD078 (slit) Filler wad- 14fw20 in base. (20 ga.) Shot- #4 buckshot NP (nickel plate) shot weight - 497 grns or roughly 27 pellets 6-point crimp 11000 psi / 1300 fps Question #1 - Do you wash your hulls or just wipe down the outside? Neither, unless they're really dirty, then I wipe'em off. Question #2 - How many slits would you put in the wad for 20-30 yard range, or 40-50 yard range ? 4, for both distances Question #3- Federal makes two plastic bottom shells. One is just plastic, the other is a integrated plastic bottom. Im well aware of the difference in the shape of the plastic bottom and that of the integrated bottom. BPI confirms that either one can be used without a change to components or charge. Has anybody used and seen a difference in the patterns of the two shells ? Not any difference from my limited experience with them. Question #4 - Which do you prefer to reload using new hulls between RIO or Fiocchi for small game shot loads? Does one get more reloads or have a better primer? I've loaded both and prefer the Fiocchi's; they tend to take a first crimping better than the Rio's. They both last about the same using my loads (I keep using a hull until either the primer pocket is loose or 3 petals on the crimp break). Question #5 - Why cant I find more data on roll crimp loads ? BPI has data on roll-crimped loads. Get their latest loading manual and check it out. Lyman has roll-crimp data as well. |
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Roll crimping is a pain in the ass to do uniformly and consistently, which is the whole key to uniform patterns. I have used roll crimps in place of 6 or 8- point crimps without changing anything but the crimp style and in testing, never saw a difference enough to make it worthwhile for ordinary shot loads (7/8 - 1.25 oz loads).
I have found that a 6-point crimp will pattern better when using shot from #5 to #2 Buckshot, with 8-point crimps working better with the smaller shot (#6 - #9). Roll crimps are especially useful when loading slugs, but again, consistency in technique is critical. |
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Quoted: Overflowing with rifle and pistol rounds, I have now turned to reloading shotshells after picking up a MEC 650 for $50 at a garage sale. Spent two weeks securing all components and im ready to go. A few questions for the shotshell reloaders in here. Load will be used for yotes in close range mixed cover. Rifle for long range, but those sneaky bastards like to slip in behind me on occasion when im squirreled away on the edge of cover. Load data pulled from BPI buckshot manual. Load ID: BKL130220-4617 12 ga.- 2 3/4 Hull- Federal PB (plastic bottom) primer- Fed 209A powder- 22grns. Green dot Wad- CSD078 (slit) Filler wad- 14fw20 in base. (20 ga.) Shot- #4 buckshot NP (nickel plate) shot weight - 497 grns or roughly 27 pellets 6-point crimp 11000 psi / 1300 fps Question #1 - Do you wash your hulls or just wipe down the outside? Neither, but if they were dirty, I would wipe them down. Question #2 - How many slits would you put in the wad for 20-30 yard range, or 40-50 yard range ? I have never had to split a wad. The ones I use come pre split. You should contact the maker of the wad. Question #3- Federal makes two plastic bottom shells. One is just plastic, the other is a integrated plastic bottom. Im well aware of the difference in the shape of the plastic bottom and that of the integrated bottom. BPI confirms that either one can be used without a change to components or charge. Has anybody used and seen a difference in the patterns of the two shells ? I use Win AA hulls only, so no idea. Most serious reloaders use AA or Rem STS hulls. Be sure to use the exact hull called out in the data. Question #4 - Which do you prefer to reload using new hulls between RIO or Fiocchi for small game shot loads? Does one get more reloads or have a better primer? See above. Question #5 - Why cant I find more data on roll crimp loads? They have been replaced with the folded crimp. If you are dead set on a roll crimp, get the roll crimp tool and use a drill press.  Be sure of your hull ID. Lyman 5 Shotshell Reloading Manual has full size drawings to make this easier, like in the pic above. This matters with shotgun reloading, as you must use the data and components exactly as shown in the data. So totally different from rifle and pistol reloading where you can mix and match and then work up to a safe load. Good luck
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Quoted:
<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Shotgun/P8150514.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Shotgun/P8150514.jpg</a> Be sure of your hull ID. Lyman 5 Shotshell Reloading Manual has full size drawings to make this easier, like in the pic above. This matters with shotgun reloading, as you must use the data and components exactly as shown in the data. So totally different from rifle and pistol reloading where you can mix and match and then work up to a safe load. Good luck Quoted:
Quoted:
Overflowing with rifle and pistol rounds, I have now turned to reloading shotshells after picking up a MEC 650 for $50 at a garage sale. Spent two weeks securing all components and im ready to go. A few questions for the shotshell reloaders in here. Load will be used for yotes in close range mixed cover. Rifle for long range, but those sneaky bastards like to slip in behind me on occasion when im squirreled away on the edge of cover. Load data pulled from BPI buckshot manual. Load ID: BKL130220-4617 12 ga.- 2 3/4 Hull- Federal PB (plastic bottom) primer- Fed 209A powder- 22grns. Green dot Wad- CSD078 (slit) Filler wad- 14fw20 in base. (20 ga.) Shot- #4 buckshot NP (nickel plate) shot weight - 497 grns or roughly 27 pellets 6-point crimp 11000 psi / 1300 fps Question #1 - Do you wash your hulls or just wipe down the outside? Neither, but if they were dirty, I would wipe them down. Question #2 - How many slits would you put in the wad for 20-30 yard range, or 40-50 yard range ? I have never had to split a wad. The ones I use come pre split. You should contact the maker of the wad. Question #3- Federal makes two plastic bottom shells. One is just plastic, the other is a integrated plastic bottom. Im well aware of the difference in the shape of the plastic bottom and that of the integrated bottom. BPI confirms that either one can be used without a change to components or charge. Has anybody used and seen a difference in the patterns of the two shells ? I use Win AA hulls only, so no idea. Most serious reloaders use AA or Rem STS hulls. Be sure to use the exact hull called out in the data. Question #4 - Which do you prefer to reload using new hulls between RIO or Fiocchi for small game shot loads? Does one get more reloads or have a better primer? See above. Question #5 - Why cant I find more data on roll crimp loads? They have been replaced with the folded crimp. If you are dead set on a roll crimp, get the roll crimp tool and use a drill press. Be sure of your hull ID. Lyman 5 Shotshell Reloading Manual has full size drawings to make this easier, like in the pic above. This matters with shotgun reloading, as you must use the data and components exactly as shown in the data. So totally different from rifle and pistol reloading where you can mix and match and then work up to a safe load. Good luck All data is from BPI (Ballistic Product Industries). All components are from BPI. Not all wads are split, and calls for cutting them when indicated. The more splits , the wider the pattern. The hulls are go to go as per BPI tech. Nobody I talked to will use the new Win AA because they deform the wad when reloading them. The old Win AA work great but are going to get hard to get with time. Rem STS is a good hull, however the load doesn't call for it. You are right that shotshell is a different ball game. |
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