User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 5:48:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RLR350:
Agreed. I made a pretty complicated blade design with case feeder - in fact just did a couple hundred 308 yesterday. Two motors and independent controls makes timing it easier. Since all the kinks are worked out it ones flawless and easily changeable between 308, 223 and 300, but without the two speed controls it would be a pain. However, because I like building and tinkering, one of these will probably be in my future. it is a much simpler design. Here is a video of the overly complicated, but very functional one I built: wood annealer Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RLR350:
Originally Posted By jasonsbeer:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. This. Adding a belt or chain, pulleys or cogs, another shaft and bearing to turn the second wheel on, figuring out the ratio and alignment... Just easier and likely cheaper to use two motors. Agreed. I made a pretty complicated blade design with case feeder - in fact just did a couple hundred 308 yesterday. Two motors and independent controls makes timing it easier. Since all the kinks are worked out it ones flawless and easily changeable between 308, 223 and 300, but without the two speed controls it would be a pain. However, because I like building and tinkering, one of these will probably be in my future. it is a much simpler design. Here is a video of the overly complicated, but very functional one I built: wood annealer I don't understand how timing would be very complicated at all. Think about it, they are going to rotate at the same ratio to one another reguardless, and you have the controller rotating the speed. I would think it would be pretty easy to: 1) mock everything up at approximately the same diminsions listed in the OP 2) with the grooves cut in the case dropper, load a few up and see when they hit the rotating drum. 3) Cut the slit in the rotating drum where it needs to be so that the timing between the two are correct 4) Now the controller simply changes the speed that all of this happens. Seems pretty straight forward to me. No need to try to adjust both things at once, or trying to get the right distance, belt, etc with precut holes. I would think you could just assemble everything with spare parts you have laying around, then cut the holes to match your setup. Am I thinking about this wrong? I'm an engineer, but maybe chemical engineer doesn't count 
|
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 8:03:21 AM EDT
[#2]
drfroglegs, I think you are right, mainly because what you describe is easy to make work by just figuring the gearing for each of the rotating drums and getting it "close".
It only needs to be close, but if it is off a little, all that's important is to make sure that the feeder drum runs a "little" slower than the annealing drum instead of being at all faster. The worst that can happen is that every dozen to a hundred feed, the feeder drum would miss one and not feed the annealer drum. No big deal, that wouldn't require any action by the operator. However, if the feeder drums works a little faster, then you end up with two cases in the annealing drum at the same time which you wouldn't want to happen (although it wouldn't create any kind of emergency). |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 8:13:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deltahawk:
drfroglegs, I think you are right, mainly because what you describe is easy to make work by just figuring the gearing for each of the rotating drums and getting it "close". It only needs to be close, but if it is off a little, all that's important is to make sure that the feeder drum runs a "little" slower than the annealing drum instead of being at all faster. The worst that can happen is that every dozen to a hundred feed, the feeder drum would miss one and not feed the annealer drum. No big deal, that wouldn't require any action by the operator. However, if the feeder drums works a little faster, then you end up with two cases in the annealing drum at the same time which you wouldn't want to happen (although it wouldn't create any kind of emergency). I guess my point is that it is impossible for one drum to get out of alignment with respect to the other, they are connected together! That's like saying your peddle on a bike is going to outrun your wheel, it's impossible. Really, I think the only thing that would take much effort is getting the "cuts" to match up so that they both feed at the right time. But even if you cut one too far in one direction, you would think you could just rotate it a couple of teeth on the pulley to fix it. idk.. I've never built anything like this before, but I did build a home made tumbler with a motor/chain/pulley and it seems pretty strait forward.... Like this... where you place the chain on the gear determines how the holes "line up" so that they feed and drop at the correct time. The pot determines the rotation speed of the entire system so that you get the proper annealing. Everything is in synch so once you get it setup, there would be no wondering or out of syncing... 
|
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 8:17:21 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but do you really need 2 controllers and two motors? Think about it, you only want one case to fall from the right motor every time the left motor drops it's case. These two should be timed perfectly (why you have two motors/controllers). So why don't you just have one motor and a belt? This will make sure they are both timed the same every time no matter what speed you set. It may take some R&D to get exactly the right belt/distance so that they are timed perfectly, but it seems like it would make the build much easier in the long run? It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. I think cases of any size would work without changing the timing. The timing of the feed and time in the flame stays the same for all cases. I hope my observation skills are good, but the only variable I see that you have to address for different size cases is the size of the slots in both drums. As long as the slot in both drums is large enough to accommodate the largest case you think you want to anneal, then all sizes of cases below that largest slot size should feed and anneal at the same rate. What that means is that once you get the timing close for any case, you should be able to leave it alone from then on. Does that sound right? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 8:21:34 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deltahawk:
I think cases of any size would work without changing the timing. The timing of the feed and time in the flame stays the same for all cases. I hope my observation skills are good, but the only variable I see that you have to address for different size cases is the size of the slots in both drums. As long as the slot in both drums is large enough to accommodate the largest case you think you want to anneal, then all sizes of cases below that largest slot size should feed and anneal at the same rate. What that means is that once you get the timing close for any case, you should be able to leave it alone from then on. Does that sound right? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Deltahawk:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but do you really need 2 controllers and two motors? Think about it, you only want one case to fall from the right motor every time the left motor drops it's case. These two should be timed perfectly (why you have two motors/controllers). So why don't you just have one motor and a belt? This will make sure they are both timed the same every time no matter what speed you set. It may take some R&D to get exactly the right belt/distance so that they are timed perfectly, but it seems like it would make the build much easier in the long run? It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. I think cases of any size would work without changing the timing. The timing of the feed and time in the flame stays the same for all cases. I hope my observation skills are good, but the only variable I see that you have to address for different size cases is the size of the slots in both drums. As long as the slot in both drums is large enough to accommodate the largest case you think you want to anneal, then all sizes of cases below that largest slot size should feed and anneal at the same rate. What that means is that once you get the timing close for any case, you should be able to leave it alone from then on. Does that sound right? Yeah, the timing would never change. The only think you would adjust is the pot setting to get more/less annealing time (for the larger/smaller cases, respectively. |
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 9:12:13 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Yeah, the timing would never change. The only think you would adjust is the pot setting to get more/less annealing time (for the larger/smaller cases, respectively. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By Deltahawk:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but do you really need 2 controllers and two motors? Think about it, you only want one case to fall from the right motor every time the left motor drops it's case. These two should be timed perfectly (why you have two motors/controllers). So why don't you just have one motor and a belt? This will make sure they are both timed the same every time no matter what speed you set. It may take some R&D to get exactly the right belt/distance so that they are timed perfectly, but it seems like it would make the build much easier in the long run? It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. I think cases of any size would work without changing the timing. The timing of the feed and time in the flame stays the same for all cases. I hope my observation skills are good, but the only variable I see that you have to address for different size cases is the size of the slots in both drums. As long as the slot in both drums is large enough to accommodate the largest case you think you want to anneal, then all sizes of cases below that largest slot size should feed and anneal at the same rate. What that means is that once you get the timing close for any case, you should be able to leave it alone from then on. Does that sound right? Yeah, the timing would never change. The only think you would adjust is the pot setting to get more/less annealing time (for the larger/smaller cases, respectively. Exactly. The spindle that drops the case from the feed tray turns once for every rotation of the annealing drum. 1:1 ratio. Simply attach a pully/cog/gear to the motor shaft driving the annealing drum, and the same size pully/cog/gear to the shaft driving the case feed spindle. One motor and speed control to set the temperature. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 9:21:17 AM EDT
[#7]
ya both ways would work, myself I'd go with 2 12vdc motors, their cheap and it would be a cleaner set-up. I built one like RLR350's but haven't started on the case feeder
Brassaholic13's unit to me really show promise , small foot print and hooks right up to a case feeder. Might have to really look at building a copy of his |
|
|
|
USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 9:52:40 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
The big issue with that is timing of the feed cases. When the drum would rotate by there is nothing stopping 5 cases from falling into the drum when you only want one. I wanted something that i could load a number of cases and let it run while I keep a eye on it. If I can trim brass and anneal at the same time that just makes me twice as productive kinda.... I applaud what you're doing here because even though I have been wanted to anneal my .223 to get more life out of them, the typical $450 entry price made it cheaper to just buy more brass. Anyway, I have ordered what you posted earlier in this thread (controllers, motors, and power supply) so my wait begins. To comment on what I highlighted: Perfect timing would be for the feed drum to rotate at exactly the same rate as the annealing drum. You have chosen to have each drum be controlled by independent controllers/motors, but if you were to place a small pulley of the same size on each of the drums, and then drive the belt that spans them both with just one motor, then each drum would rotate at the same rotation speed as long as the pulleys are the exact same size. What do you think? |
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 9:58:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
Exactly. The spindle that drops the case from the feed tray turns once for every rotation of the annealing drum. 1:1 ratio. Simply attach a pully/cog/gear to the motor shaft driving the annealing drum, and the same size pully/cog/gear to the shaft driving the case feed spindle. One motor and speed control to set the temperature. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By Deltahawk:
Originally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Maybe I'm thinking about this wrong, but do you really need 2 controllers and two motors? Think about it, you only want one case to fall from the right motor every time the left motor drops it's case. These two should be timed perfectly (why you have two motors/controllers). So why don't you just have one motor and a belt? This will make sure they are both timed the same every time no matter what speed you set. It may take some R&D to get exactly the right belt/distance so that they are timed perfectly, but it seems like it would make the build much easier in the long run? It would make things easier for set up but I personally do not know if the if the timing is always the same between all the different cases. By making it a direct drive you are locked into to one ratio. No fine tuning to make sure the feeding is correct. It seem to work with other annealers but I personally dont want to do that much R&D and motors and controllers are cheap. compared to buying sprockets and chain belts or o rings. One Motor and and controller is $16 pretty cheap when it comes to versatility. Once you figure out basic settings you should be able to set everthing to the displaces each time you anneal a specific case. I think cases of any size would work without changing the timing. The timing of the feed and time in the flame stays the same for all cases. I hope my observation skills are good, but the only variable I see that you have to address for different size cases is the size of the slots in both drums. As long as the slot in both drums is large enough to accommodate the largest case you think you want to anneal, then all sizes of cases below that largest slot size should feed and anneal at the same rate. What that means is that once you get the timing close for any case, you should be able to leave it alone from then on. Does that sound right? Yeah, the timing would never change. The only think you would adjust is the pot setting to get more/less annealing time (for the larger/smaller cases, respectively. Exactly. The spindle that drops the case from the feed tray turns once for every rotation of the annealing drum. 1:1 ratio. Simply attach a pully/cog/gear to the motor shaft driving the annealing drum, and the same size pully/cog/gear to the shaft driving the case feed spindle. One motor and speed control to set the temperature. yep you guys are right. i was on a one track mind.....
i am still sticking with the two motors though. mainly for the reason i do not have to buy bearings sprockets and chain. shafts are going to be more complicated and so on. so yeah one controller and 2 motors. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 10:20:52 AM EDT
[#10]
thanks for the digital controller link , will have to update my unit
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 12:08:59 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
thanks for the digital controller link , will have to update my unit Yeah, agreed. Thanks for the information. I too have purchased the controller and motor. I'm going to build mine with a cheap 450W computer power supply I have laying around (free) and hopefully sheet metal I can get from a friend for free. I would love to keep mine under $50, have a 1 month old baby 
I'll probably go with the chain/sprocket idea just to change things up. No guarantee mine will work, but that's part of the fun of DIY projects. My goals are to keep it as compact as possible. Thanks for posting this topic OP, you got my gears turning (pun intended). Anyone have any ideas for cheap chain/sprockets? I would prefer a small, maybe 2-3" sprocket with the 8mm drive hold. My Google skills apparently suck! |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 12:43:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Yeah, the timing would never change. The only think you would adjust is the pot setting to get more/less annealing time (for the larger/smaller cases, respectively. With my (very limited) manual annealing experience, I found that the time in the flame needed to reach the correct temperature (using Tempilaq to measure that temperature) was quite consistent. I would suggest that the OP plan to use Termpilaq, or something like it, as a sort of calibration method for the length of time needed to anneal cases. On the other hand, I use an electric screwdriver to spin my cases in the flame, and that gives them a pretty fast spin, so I would personally want the cases to turn fast - even if they stay turning for longer or shorter times - to ensure even heating. It's a timing chain issue, whatever way the OP gets it set up. |
|
|
|
IL, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 1:16:08 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Brassaholic13]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Yeah, agreed. Thanks for the information. I too have purchased the controller and motor. I'm going to build mine with a cheap 450W computer power supply I have laying around (free) and hopefully sheet metal I can get from a friend for free. I would love to keep mine under $50, have a 1 month old baby
I'll probably go with the chain/sprocket idea just to change things up. No guarantee mine will work, but that's part of the fun of DIY projects. My goals are to keep it as compact as possible. Thanks for posting this topic OP, you got my gears turning (pun intended). Anyone have any ideas for cheap chain/sprockets? I would prefer a small, maybe 2-3" sprocket with the 8mm drive hold. My Google skills apparently suck! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By angus6:
thanks for the digital controller link , will have to update my unit Yeah, agreed. Thanks for the information. I too have purchased the controller and motor. I'm going to build mine with a cheap 450W computer power supply I have laying around (free) and hopefully sheet metal I can get from a friend for free. I would love to keep mine under $50, have a 1 month old baby
I'll probably go with the chain/sprocket idea just to change things up. No guarantee mine will work, but that's part of the fun of DIY projects. My goals are to keep it as compact as possible. Thanks for posting this topic OP, you got my gears turning (pun intended). Anyone have any ideas for cheap chain/sprockets? I would prefer a small, maybe 2-3" sprocket with the 8mm drive hold. My Google skills apparently suck! Have not found any cheaper than this place: http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/Sprockets/Finished-Bore-Sprockets/ This is where Craig Forcht buys his (he recommended them to me). *EDIT* Get the 25P (25 pitch) 1/4" hub and drill it out to 8mm. *EDIT2* If you want a very nice power supply for cheap, with adjustable voltage: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171379666965 *EDIT3* If you want to do something really slick, you could pick up an Arduino (inexpensive) and with a couple of limit switches, alternate the motors running, using a faster motor on the delivery device. This way, timing wouldn't matter. When one shell exits the annealer, the delivery mechanism is triggered to supply another shell. Cherry brand microswitches are used by Dillon for their collators. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 1:36:17 PM EDT
[#14]
Brassaholic13 how about more pics of yours maybe in a new thread
|
|
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 2:40:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Yeah, agreed. Thanks for the information. I too have purchased the controller and motor. I'm going to build mine with a cheap 450W computer power supply I have laying around (free) and hopefully sheet metal I can get from a friend for free. I would love to keep mine under $50, have a 1 month old baby
I'll probably go with the chain/sprocket idea just to change things up. No guarantee mine will work, but that's part of the fun of DIY projects. My goals are to keep it as compact as possible. Thanks for posting this topic OP, you got my gears turning (pun intended). Anyone have any ideas for cheap chain/sprockets? I would prefer a small, maybe 2-3" sprocket with the 8mm drive hold. My Google skills apparently suck! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By angus6:
thanks for the digital controller link , will have to update my unit Yeah, agreed. Thanks for the information. I too have purchased the controller and motor. I'm going to build mine with a cheap 450W computer power supply I have laying around (free) and hopefully sheet metal I can get from a friend for free. I would love to keep mine under $50, have a 1 month old baby
I'll probably go with the chain/sprocket idea just to change things up. No guarantee mine will work, but that's part of the fun of DIY projects. My goals are to keep it as compact as possible. Thanks for posting this topic OP, you got my gears turning (pun intended). Anyone have any ideas for cheap chain/sprockets? I would prefer a small, maybe 2-3" sprocket with the 8mm drive hold. My Google skills apparently suck! Still can't convice you on two motors? Dang I surplus center is pretty cheap on stuff as someony posted above. I would look at going with something bigger then 8mm and a standard shaft size so you can integrate it into the hubs. I am not sure you will have enought room to fit a sprocket and a hub on to the same shaft if you choose to do it that way. also what are your plans for bearings to support the hubs? |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 3:24:17 PM EDT
[#16]
I'm with you tstuart34, I have a hard time seeing a simpler and cleaner way then 2 motors with digital controls. Figure that the single drive has already been kicked around
Also not sure I'd use chain and sprockets. I'd be tempted to to turn 3 pulleys that would use something like a o-ring or vacum cleaner belt instead |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 4:09:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
I'm with you tstuart34, I have a hard time seeing a simpler and cleaner way then 2 motors with digital controls. Figure that the single drive has already been kicked around Also not sure I'd use chain and sprockets. I'd be tempted to to turn 3 pulleys that would use something like a o-ring or vacum cleaner belt instead I'm thinking a vac belt might be best, as you guys have suggested. So now I'm looking at a single motor/controller, two rods, three pulleys, and a belt... Maybe I should have done two
I don't think it will end up being cheaper for the average joe, but I can "borrow" belts, pullies, and bearing from a friend, so those won't cost me anything. I'll just turn some rods to match my bearings/pulley so that's not a problem either. Basically, the end result might be easier (don't have to worry about synching speeds) but it's looking like the original build might be a PITA. Should be fun
|
|
|
|
IL, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 4:37:36 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
Brassaholic13 how about more pics of yours maybe in a new thread It'll be a bit. Production has gotten me behind, and I've yet to finalize the annealer and get it running. Had another idea for the annealer in this thread, using micro switches. On the annealer motor, use your variable speed rheostat. Then on the OD of the annealing drum, attach a small cam. When the microswitch is engaged by the cam, the motor for the case dropper runs. Very easy to set timing, and the cam only has to be long enough to have the case collator drop a single case reliably. Now, there's no mechanical connections required. No pulleys, chains, or belts. It's dead quiet and reliable. |
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 5:11:01 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Brassaholic13:
It'll be a bit. Production has gotten me behind, and I've yet to finalize the annealer and get it running. Had another idea for the annealer in this thread, using micro switches. On the annealer motor, use your variable speed rheostat. Then on the OD of the annealing drum, attach a small cam. When the microswitch is engaged by the cam, the motor for the case dropper runs. Very easy to set timing, and the cam only has to be long enough to have the case collator drop a single case reliably. Now, there's no mechanical connections required. No pulleys, chains, or belts. It's dead quiet and reliable. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Brassaholic13:
Originally Posted By angus6:
Brassaholic13 how about more pics of yours maybe in a new thread It'll be a bit. Production has gotten me behind, and I've yet to finalize the annealer and get it running. Had another idea for the annealer in this thread, using micro switches. On the annealer motor, use your variable speed rheostat. Then on the OD of the annealing drum, attach a small cam. When the microswitch is engaged by the cam, the motor for the case dropper runs. Very easy to set timing, and the cam only has to be long enough to have the case collator drop a single case reliably. Now, there's no mechanical connections required. No pulleys, chains, or belts. It's dead quiet and reliable. I can see that working also... but damnit now your getting into EE and i like my mechanical stuff. Very good idea but I will skip any switches as it adds another layer of complexity My plan is when i get my motors and controls is to test and see how accurately these cheap controllers control two motors. (should be ok but i want to test it) I will add info to the OP once i find out how well a single controler with two motors work out. |
|
|
IL, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 5:39:15 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
I can see that working also... but damnit now your getting into EE and i like my mechanical stuff. Very good idea but I will skip any switches as it adds another layer of complexity My plan is when i get my motors and controls is to test and see how accurately these cheap controllers control two motors. (should be ok but i want to test it) I will add info to the OP once i find out how well a single controler with two motors work out. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
Originally Posted By Brassaholic13:
Originally Posted By angus6:
Brassaholic13 how about more pics of yours maybe in a new thread It'll be a bit. Production has gotten me behind, and I've yet to finalize the annealer and get it running. Had another idea for the annealer in this thread, using micro switches. On the annealer motor, use your variable speed rheostat. Then on the OD of the annealing drum, attach a small cam. When the microswitch is engaged by the cam, the motor for the case dropper runs. Very easy to set timing, and the cam only has to be long enough to have the case collator drop a single case reliably. Now, there's no mechanical connections required. No pulleys, chains, or belts. It's dead quiet and reliable. I can see that working also... but damnit now your getting into EE and i like my mechanical stuff. Very good idea but I will skip any switches as it adds another layer of complexity My plan is when i get my motors and controls is to test and see how accurately these cheap controllers control two motors. (should be ok but i want to test it) I will add info to the OP once i find out how well a single controler with two motors work out. It's yours to do as you want, but there's a larger variation over time with trying to synchronize two motors/controllers versus using a switching mechanism to deliver the cases based on mechanical positioning of the annealing drum. |
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 6:30:24 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
I'm thinking a vac belt might be best, as you guys have suggested. So now I'm looking at a single motor/controller, two rods, three pulleys, and a belt... Maybe I should have done two
I don't think it will end up being cheaper for the average joe, but I can "borrow" belts, pullies, and bearing from a friend, so those won't cost me anything. I'll just turn some rods to match my bearings/pulley so that's not a problem either. Basically, the end result might be easier (don't have to worry about synching speeds) but it's looking like the original build might be a PITA. Should be fun Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By angus6:
I'm with you tstuart34, I have a hard time seeing a simpler and cleaner way then 2 motors with digital controls. Figure that the single drive has already been kicked around Also not sure I'd use chain and sprockets. I'd be tempted to to turn 3 pulleys that would use something like a o-ring or vacum cleaner belt instead I'm thinking a vac belt might be best, as you guys have suggested. So now I'm looking at a single motor/controller, two rods, three pulleys, and a belt... Maybe I should have done two
I don't think it will end up being cheaper for the average joe, but I can "borrow" belts, pullies, and bearing from a friend, so those won't cost me anything. I'll just turn some rods to match my bearings/pulley so that's not a problem either. Basically, the end result might be easier (don't have to worry about synching speeds) but it's looking like the original build might be a PITA. Should be fun I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 6:51:33 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. Okay $40 bucks for bearings $20 or $30 for pulleys depending on how you tie the motor in, me I would couple it to one of the shafts so only 2 pulleys |
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 7:06:56 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
Okay $40 bucks for bearings $20 or $30 for pulleys depending on how you tie the motor in, me I would couple it to one of the shafts so only 2 pulleys Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By HardwarePro:
I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. Okay $40 bucks for bearings $20 or $30 for pulleys depending on how you tie the motor in, me I would couple it to one of the shafts so only 2 pulleys And now the cost is more than just using the two motors. Maybe I can scavange some of the parts from some old printers I have laying around. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 8:47:01 PM EDT
[#24]
Subscribed!
|
|
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/28/2014 10:45:18 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
Originally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By angus6:
I'm with you tstuart34, I have a hard time seeing a simpler and cleaner way then 2 motors with digital controls. Figure that the single drive has already been kicked around Also not sure I'd use chain and sprockets. I'd be tempted to to turn 3 pulleys that would use something like a o-ring or vacum cleaner belt instead I'm thinking a vac belt might be best, as you guys have suggested. So now I'm looking at a single motor/controller, two rods, three pulleys, and a belt... Maybe I should have done two
I don't think it will end up being cheaper for the average joe, but I can "borrow" belts, pullies, and bearing from a friend, so those won't cost me anything. I'll just turn some rods to match my bearings/pulley so that's not a problem either. Basically, the end result might be easier (don't have to worry about synching speeds) but it's looking like the original build might be a PITA. Should be fun I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. If i was doing it i would not get stuck on 8mm pulleys. I would go up to a 1/2" ID bearings and ID pulleys and make my hubs the shaft for the pulleys. Makes for a lot more machine work though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 6:06:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HardwarePro:
I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. That's mighty sexy looking
You wouldn't need to extend the motor, just put another pulley on it. So you use the motor/pulley to drive the other two pulleys? That's why I said earlier you would need 3 pulleys, two bearings and one motor/controller (IMHO). You can buy single pulleys for $5, so you're looking at $15 for the pulleys and a couple of ball bearings (I guess you would have to buy all 5, can't find a listing for 2). 1 - 8mm bore pulley You can get a 1meter open end roll of the 2mm belt for these pulleys for $3 Link) So here is my updated parts list for what I'm planning on using (sorry OP, don't mean to take over your thread, just want to contribute to the flow of ideas). 1x Motor $9.59 1x Controller $8.79 1x Power Supply $15.99 (I'm using an Antec SP-450 computer power supply for free) 2x Pully for two rotating disks $9.99 1x pully for motor $5.79 5pm Bearings (I'll only need 2) $9.85 <- These are self centering as well, so no worries about wobbly rotations. 1x Belt (cut to length) $3.79 Comes out to about $64 for all the supplies (not including gas mounting hardware and metal for frame). I'll have $47 invested (free power supply). Not too shabby. |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 9:35:34 AM EDT
[#27]
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 9:52:52 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel To me, it looks like those bearings are "bearings in a flange mount." As long as the mount is relatively true, keeping shafts parallel shouldn't be a big problem. |
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:09:24 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel New plan calls for a second sheet of aluminum in back to mount the motor and a second set of bearings to. This would eliminate any potential play in the bearings. Motor faces forward and belt wraps around all 3 pulleys. Slots in plate to adjust belt tension. |
|
|
AUS
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:17:54 AM EDT
[#30]
It's nice to see a brain storm happening. I know I said I wouldn't participate in the thread any longer, to be honest I didn't think my DIY build would raise the fur and start a cat fight over the legalitys.
Anyway It's nice to see my build go even further, whilst I'm happy with my build and suits my needs just fine. I might even build another, just from what I've seen here from your guys brain storm. I've already got the belt and pully idea going in my head how it's going to be able to be mountable. ( the belt and pulleys + bearings and shafts would cost a smidge more then the extra motor and digi read out. I went two digi speed controllers due to the volt drop and the two motors ( cheap motors ) not realy knowen for the exact performance motor to motor. ( I had one motor that's slightly faster then the other with the same voltage going through. Hence I went the two independent contorler and a PSU with indipendent connections. The cost of the pully and belt build can be made cheaper using a cheaper PSU with only a single connection for the motor. ( also from memory there is a single PSU, that has a digi readout and turnpot. $10 from memory. I'll paste a link should I come back across it. I used 5" cake drums for my build ( I cut the rims off also to the size I needed IE: 35mm wide for small cases like .223 -308 sized ( gives 10mm area for the flame ) for my large cases I did 47mm ( was a 50mm drum ) I cut the rolled over rim off which left me 47mm for large cases example my 300 win mag. For a couple for the main drum you can pick up 8mm CNC couplers for about $3 each on eBay ( just tap out one end with Thread to mount the drum too. Anyway it's nice to see it progressing. Told you guys I'ed be watching :) OP I will send you another Email over the weekend, when I get 20min Regards Skip |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:32:45 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
To me, it looks like those bearings are "bearings in a flange mount." As long as the mount is relatively true, keeping shafts parallel shouldn't be a big problem. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By angus6:
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel To me, it looks like those bearings are "bearings in a flange mount." As long as the mount is relatively true, keeping shafts parallel shouldn't be a big problem. They are in a flange mount, but as drfroglegs said they are self centering, meaning that the center line will float and isn't in a fix postion to the flange, see picture below how the insert is cocked to one side Please don't take my input wrong just thinking this through with you guys 
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:36:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: drfroglegs]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By El-Skippo:
It's nice to see a brain storm happening. I know I said I wouldn't participate in the thread any longer, to be honest I didn't think my DIY build would raise the fur and start a cat fight over the legalitys. Anyway It's nice to see my build go even further, whilst I'm happy with my build and suits my needs just fine. I might even build another, just from what I've seen here from your guys brain storm. I've already got the belt and pully idea going in my head how it's going to be able to be mountable. ( the belt and pulleys + bearings and shafts would cost a smidge more then the extra motor and digi read out. I went two digi speed controllers due to the volt drop and the two motors ( cheap motors ) not realy knowen for the exact performance motor to motor. ( I had one motor that's slightly faster then the other with the same voltage going through. Hence I went the two independent contorler and a PSU with indipendent connections. The cost of the pully and belt build can be made cheaper using a cheaper PSU with only a single connection for the motor. ( also from memory there is a single PSU, that has a digi readout and turnpot. $10 from memory. I'll paste a link should I come back across it. I used 5" cake drums for my build ( I cut the rims off also to the size I needed IE: 35mm wide for small cases like .223 -308 sized ( gives 10mm area for the flame ) for my large cases I did 47mm ( was a 50mm drum ) I cut the rolled over rim off which left me 47mm for large cases example my 300 win mag. For a couple for the main drum you can pick up 8mm CNC couplers for about $3 each on eBay ( just tap out one end with Thread to mount the drum too. Anyway it's nice to see it progressing. Told you guys I'ed be watching :) OP I will send you another Email over the weekend, when I get 20min Regards Skip I knew you couldn't stay out, and I don't even know you! Once a DIYer, always a DIYer. It's like an itch that never goes away, always finding a new project to take on... Great idea with the cake pan, I wondered how you go the drums looking so great! Can you explain the 8mm CNC couplers? I'm assuming you are suggesting to use this so that the case "hopper" shaft is connected to the motor directly right? So you would have the motor connected to the coupler, connected to the 8mm shaft that runs through the bearings and holds the brass hopper. Is that correct? If so, that would eliminate one of the pulleys and simplify things a bit. Great idea. I found the coupler on ebay for $2.45, pretty good deal. Link For the rod I was just planning on picking up an 8mm drill rod from McMaster Carr (part number 88625K67) Link $5.70 for 3' What did you use for the plastic piece, the part that holds/rotates the cases one at a time? |
|
|
|
AUS
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:52:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: El-Skippo]
[#33]
The cake tins are cheap as chips to buy $3 a roundabouts each. ( I brought a few ) to make it worthwhile for the seller. The cake tins are ally so the are a heat sink also.
I made the couplers for mine, I also made the ones for the 10 members that wanted them but slightly differant to mine. The case hopper I used 40x45 acetail and for the forum members I used 50x50 off cut PVC barstock. The forum built ones I did I did a duel slot for small and large cases. With button screws used as a adjustable filler. As for the main ( cake tin drum ) I used 25mm x 40mm steel off cut. For the members the same but ally. ( I'll take a pick of both couples I made for the forum build I did for our members here in Aus ) I'll edit my post in a tick.  " />
 " />
The above couplers I made are built to be mounted directly to the motors exactly like mine. ( or you can make your own style to suit your build ) but the above is pretty much what our forum guys got, to build there's. ( mine are exactly the same just different material ) I've had a look for the PSU/PWM controler I stumbled across whilst spooking for bits for my build, back when I built my annealer. For the life of me a can't find it, but it was around the $10 mark. The CNC couplers you posted ( Yes ) they are the ones I was referring too. You just tap one end to a thread the next size up or use a helicoil. The other end you can just attach to the motor or shaft ( how ever your building yours ) |
|
|
AUS
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 11:20:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: El-Skippo]
[#34]
This link will help you guys find Center on a round object :)
How to find Center on a round object. There is also a CNC 13mm ID shaft holder on EBay for around $4 that you can modify to use as a torch holder. I made mine, but I found that whilst looking for parts that could be easily modded for those who don't have many tools. |
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 6:21:43 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
They are in a flange mount, but as drfroglegs said they are self centering, meaning that the center line will float and isn't in a fix postion to the flange, see picture below how the insert is cocked to one side Please don't take my input wrong just thinking this through with you guys <a href="http://s40.photobucket.com/user/angus6/media/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/angus6/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg</a> Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By angus6:
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel To me, it looks like those bearings are "bearings in a flange mount." As long as the mount is relatively true, keeping shafts parallel shouldn't be a big problem. They are in a flange mount, but as drfroglegs said they are self centering, meaning that the center line will float and isn't in a fix postion to the flange, see picture below how the insert is cocked to one side Please don't take my input wrong just thinking this through with you guys <a href="http://s40.photobucket.com/user/angus6/media/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/angus6/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg</a> your right they will need 4 bearings. they will haveto sandwich the face of the front face |
|
|
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 6:27:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GHPorter]
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
They are in a flange mount, but as drfroglegs said they are self centering, meaning that the center line will float and isn't in a fix postion to the flange, see picture below how the insert is cocked to one side Please don't take my input wrong just thinking this through with you guys <a href="http://s40.photobucket.com/user/angus6/media/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/angus6/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg</a> Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By angus6:
since it appears that those bearings have a removeable insert how are you going to get by with 1 per shaft and keep the shafts parallel To me, it looks like those bearings are "bearings in a flange mount." As long as the mount is relatively true, keeping shafts parallel shouldn't be a big problem. They are in a flange mount, but as drfroglegs said they are self centering, meaning that the center line will float and isn't in a fix postion to the flange, see picture below how the insert is cocked to one side Please don't take my input wrong just thinking this through with you guys <a href="http://s40.photobucket.com/user/angus6/media/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e219/angus6/ux_a13042400ux0505_ux_c_zps35fdc233.jpg</a> I see that now. A good look at the picture shows the self-centering feature - the bearing is actually at an angle in the mount in the large picture. Disregard my previous post.... |
|
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 10/29/2014 10:34:21 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
That's mighty sexy looking
You wouldn't need to extend the motor, just put another pulley on it. So you use the motor/pulley to drive the other two pulleys? That's why I said earlier you would need 3 pulleys, two bearings and one motor/controller (IMHO). You can buy single pulleys for $5, so you're looking at $15 for the pulleys and a couple of ball bearings (I guess you would have to buy all 5, can't find a listing for 2). 1 - 8mm bore pulley You can get a 1meter open end roll of the 2mm belt for these pulleys for $3 Link) So here is my updated parts list for what I'm planning on using (sorry OP, don't mean to take over your thread, just want to contribute to the flow of ideas). 1x Motor $9.59 1x Controller $8.79 1x Power Supply $15.99 (I'm using an Antec SP-450 computer power supply for free) 2x Pully for two rotating disks $9.99 1x pully for motor $5.79 5pm Bearings (I'll only need 2) $9.85 <- These are self centering as well, so no worries about wobbly rotations. 1x Belt (cut to length) $3.79 Comes out to about $64 for all the supplies (not including gas mounting hardware and metal for frame). I'll have $47 invested (free power supply). Not too shabby. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By drfroglegs:
Originally Posted By HardwarePro:
I was thinking of using these flange blocks And these timing pulleys. Now I just need to figure out how to extend the motor shaft. That's mighty sexy looking
You wouldn't need to extend the motor, just put another pulley on it. So you use the motor/pulley to drive the other two pulleys? That's why I said earlier you would need 3 pulleys, two bearings and one motor/controller (IMHO). You can buy single pulleys for $5, so you're looking at $15 for the pulleys and a couple of ball bearings (I guess you would have to buy all 5, can't find a listing for 2). 1 - 8mm bore pulley You can get a 1meter open end roll of the 2mm belt for these pulleys for $3 Link) So here is my updated parts list for what I'm planning on using (sorry OP, don't mean to take over your thread, just want to contribute to the flow of ideas). 1x Motor $9.59 1x Controller $8.79 1x Power Supply $15.99 (I'm using an Antec SP-450 computer power supply for free) 2x Pully for two rotating disks $9.99 1x pully for motor $5.79 5pm Bearings (I'll only need 2) $9.85 <- These are self centering as well, so no worries about wobbly rotations. 1x Belt (cut to length) $3.79 Comes out to about $64 for all the supplies (not including gas mounting hardware and metal for frame). I'll have $47 invested (free power supply). Not too shabby. Another question... plans on making that bulk belting into a close loop? i know a guy who is a machine designer in a belt manufacturing plant that houses a team of application engineers who do belt drive designs. 
|
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2014 5:05:10 PM EDT
[#38]
Update in OP for Power Supply Build and Started parts list for the Long Lead items. Still waiting on my motors and controllers.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2014 10:02:12 PM EDT
[#39]
Has anyone found a source for the cake tins? I can't find a good match on ebay, Amazon, etc.
|
|
|
|
VA, USA
|
Posted: 11/1/2014 10:12:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By daeven:
Has anyone found a source for the cake tins? I can't find a good match on ebay, Amazon, etc. I've been looking for a similar type as in the videos. The closest I've found were Wilton brand at JoAnne Fabric, maybe Wally World. Cost was about $8.00. There may be cheaper ones out there, but I couldn't find any with straight sides besides the Wilton brand. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2014 10:14:05 PM EDT
[#41]
a quart paint can maybe ?
|
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/1/2014 11:36:08 PM EDT
[#42]
I was able to find 6" cake pans at Walmart. They're not in the normal kitchen section, they're in the cake decorating section near the greeting cards.
They look like a perfect size, $6 each. They're 2" thick, which is what skip recommend as the max for the large magnum calibers. Of course you would cut down for smaller calibers. |
|
|
|
AUS
|
Posted: 11/2/2014 8:18:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: El-Skippo]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By daeven:
Has anyone found a source for the cake tins? I can't find a good match on ebay, Amazon, etc. link to the tins i used, as to the size well thats up to you. mine in the vid was 5" tins As to Striaght wall cake tins, i hadn't found any cheap. Hence i went this route. That is why the build has a lean too it ( to aid in keeping cases against the wall of the drum while rotating in the flame and to counter the tins shape. Ive been at ot like a frog in a sock the last week, hoping to get a breather to sit down and add more to the build thread on my forum, also give the info to the op to update his thread. |
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 11/2/2014 1:56:47 PM EDT
[#44]
This is what I am going to use. Seems to be the best price for what you are getting. The link is for a 3" pan. they also have 2" pans but are a little bit more. $7.00 +free shipping with prime. Cake Pan
Skips pans are pretty cheap but they ebay is saying it will take up to a 2-4 weeks to get. With amazon prime you will have them in 2days, |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/3/2014 7:39:47 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tstuart34:
This is what I am going to use. Seems to be the best price for what you are getting. The link is for a 3" pan. they also have 2" pans but are a little bit more. $7.00 +free shipping with prime. Cake Pan Skips pans are pretty cheap but they ebay is saying it will take up to a 2-4 weeks to get. With amazon prime you will have them in 2days, Those look good too, but I already ordered Skip's pans. I just ordered the DC motors and controllers, and it looks like everything is getting loaded on the same boat from China, so no harm in waiting for the pans too. I can see this turning into a desire to build my own 4-axis CNC mill/lathe so I can make the other parts. So much for saving money... |
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/3/2014 11:27:14 PM EDT
[#46]
Tag for later, very interested in this
|
|
|
|
NE, USA
|
Posted: 11/4/2014 9:13:25 PM EDT
[#47]
motors showed up yesterday. still waiting on the controllers to see how well my two motors would sync. need to get working on the frame and hubs....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/5/2014 1:37:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rcav8r]
[#48]
Just found this topic. Goes to show I should go through the reloading forums more often.
I already had the motors, controllers, and switches for the rotating annealer, and had the plates waterjetted at work. Just haven't gotten around to building it since it's more of a winter project thing, and spring rolled around at the time. However, I'm liking this one better. I can dump a bunch of cases in the hopper and let it run. Whereas with the rotating one, I'd have to feed the cases as it went along, since I'm not about to spring for a case feeder. Watching the video, I'm not sure what's "kicking" the case loose after annealing. Anyone care to enlighten me? Oh, and I'm in the 2 motors camp. It's a LOT easier to wire them up than to mess with gears, chains, belts, and whatnot. ETA: to be clear, I'm talking about the other one with the blue catch tray. |
|
|
|
AUS
|
Posted: 11/5/2014 1:55:22 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rcav8r:
Just found this topic. Goes to show I should go through the reloading forums more often. I already had the motors, controllers, and switches for the rotating annealer, and had the plates waterjetted at work. Just haven't gotten around to building it since it's more of a winter project thing, and spring rolled around at the time. However, I'm liking this one better. I can dump a bunch of cases in the hopper and let it run. Whereas with the rotating one, I'd have to feed the cases as it went along, since I'm not about to spring for a case feeder. Watching the video, I'm not sure what's "kicking" the case loose after annealing. Anyone care to enlighten me? Oh, and I'm in the 2 motors camp. It's a LOT easier to wire them up than to mess with gears, chains, belts, and whatnot. ETA: to be clear, I'm talking about the other one with the blue catch tray. It looks like he used a interrupter/sycro gear to send the cases off the flame when its annealed. Best to ask the op 1066 in his thread ( this thread is for a differant build ) :) Skip |
|
|
OK, USA
|
Posted: 11/5/2014 7:42:09 PM EDT
[#50]
I am interested in building one of these also. I am in the one motor camp. I was curious if there might be a problem with the single motor having enough torque to turn everything.
Is the front of the machine angled at all? What's everyone's plans to cut the cake pans off to length? In the inspiration video, what is the feeder drum made of? It looks to be plastic. I don't have a lathe or anything fancy so plastic would be easier for me than metal. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
