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Posted: 7/28/2014 3:59:57 PM EDT
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Ok so I've attempted to slug my barrel of my m44. Guess the counter bore on it really screwed things up for me.
So my lead got stuck. Right past the front sights. Dowel after broken dowel i finally gave up and got a steel rod that fit the barrel. Made it snug by wrapping in duct tape. Two - three good whacks and out came the slug. Unfortunately it left a good amount of the lead right where the counter bore is. I should have looked before ramming my cleaning jag down there but alas i didn't. I was lucky with a wooden dowel and got the rod out. I'm trying to get this last darn bit of lead out. (Yea my mistake was lead was too hard melted it from a jacketed bullet in a 9mm Kurtz case then kinetic hammered out the slug. Thst was first mistake. 2nd was not lubing it and the barrel prior to slugging. Arrrggg) So far I've been lucky and haven't damaged the barrel. But when i glanced over at the torch and actually considered heating up that end of the barrel in the hope it would just pour out... Well luckily i finally had some common sense to just come ask the experts. What do i do now? Is there something that will just eat the damn lead? I've tried soaking for 15 minutes in the following: Hoppers 9 Hoppes elite foaming gun cleaner Break free powder blast Gun oil Hell wd40 and pb blaster. Sheesh......i need help fellas |
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I use a bronze/brass bore brush with a few strands of "Chore Boy" copper pad wrapped around it to remove leading in pistol barrels. May work for you. The copper pad must be %100 copper, not copper plated steel strands.
I found an off-brand at Wal mart called Domestix Supreme Clean scouring pads that are pure copper and work well. ETA - next would be to use the electronic bore cleaner and solution. |
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I use a bronze/brass bore brush with a few strands of "Chore Boy" copper pad wrapped around it to remove leading in pistol barrels. May work for you. The copper pad must be %100 copper, not copper plated steel strands. I found an off-brand at Wal mart called Domestix Supreme Clean scouring pads that are pure copper and work well. ETA - next would be to use the electronic bore cleaner and solution. +1000 this is an old Bill Wilson trick that works really well 
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+1000 this is an old Bill Wilson trick that works really well <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/boreBrush001.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/boreBrush001.jpg</a> Quoted:
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I use a bronze/brass bore brush with a few strands of "Chore Boy" copper pad wrapped around it to remove leading in pistol barrels. May work for you. The copper pad must be %100 copper, not copper plated steel strands. I found an off-brand at Wal mart called Domestix Supreme Clean scouring pads that are pure copper and work well. ETA - next would be to use the electronic bore cleaner and solution. +1000 this is an old Bill Wilson trick that works really well <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/derek45/media/boreBrush001.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/derek45/boreBrush001.jpg</a> Holy shit. I thought i was the only one to do that. I used it to smooth out a rough chamber on an 870 before and other projects. Throw in some rubbing compound and bammmmm. Funny. |
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If nothing else works, use a 50/50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide, soak the leaded part of the bore for a few minutes and scrub with a bore brush. I've heard two things about this 1. it works well or 2. it screws up your barrel, by pitting it really bad. I've never tried it |
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Thank you thank you thank you to everyone that posted
So after running all over publix not Wally had the correct chore boy. Imagine if you will someone poured not lead into your barrel then you punched it out but it left a good thick rim of lead there Well thats what I had. I already ruined a brush in the electric drill thinking that would work so now instead of tossing it. I now have something to wrap chore boy onto. First pass of less than a minute considerably opened it up. Nicely wrapped more getting it snug and all down there Zip zip still there but now it's that thin layer hiding right at the last of the threads and the lip where they counter boarded it. So i out tons over the steel wierd end of the brush so it couldn't hit the metal and placed angled pressure to get down into that lip. Zip gone My rod goes through smooth now. Next i mixed up vinegar and hydrogen peroxide as I had read elsewhere also and let it sit about 8 minutes. Man it's nice I can see the lands now throughout the barrel. My 91/30 will get the liquid treatment soon too. But that's for another day! Btw the liquid takes only thin layers each go (i tried it before the chore boy) Between each you have to clean. It would have taken 200 cleanings! |
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Copper Chore Boy wrapped around a bore brush. How to slug a barrel: Buy some soft lead sinkers, make sure they are soft enough you can crease them with a fingernail. Buy a 1/4" hardwood dowel at the lumber yard, cut it in 12" lengths, harden the ends by soaking in some superglue*. Take one of the sinkers, shape it with a hammer and size it just slightly larger than bore diameter, then pound that through your barrel using those short lengths of dowel, the short sections prevent it from bending! *Soaking with superglue: Take some superglue and drop 3 or 4 drops of superglue into the end grain of the wood dowel, it will soak right in, and after a while it will harden up and toughen up the ends, helps prevent them from splitting. |
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Thanks for all the tips! Now I'm back on track to shoot it this weekend!
I found a fishing lure slugged it through as it was a hair larger than the barrel. Seems the widest portion is .3125 yet the lands is like .3035 does that sound right? My 91/30 slugged out at .3115 so i understand i need to load .312 for it. Was hoping to use same diameter for this one but sounds like i need to do .313 instead. I'm also interested in hearing any recommendations on doing the electric cleaning since it was mentioned. Does it matter if you get one of the smaller diameter rods? I'm thinking then I could do it to my .22 also but use same rod or does size matter? How about mixture I'm reading some say any old ammonia while other say industrial strength? Yet other say buy the lead vs copper mixtures on midway. Do you really need two different mixtures to pull lead vs copper? Or can you just do peroxide and ammonia and be just as good? How long do you do it for? I'm thinking my surplus weapons needs it for sure then just do everything i have once and not touch them with it again until they've got thousands of rounds through them maybe even 10k or 5 yrs whichever comes first |
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility.
We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. |
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See if you can get some mercury. Dissolves lead like a champ. 
I also use the chore boy technique without the vinegar/peroxide. I typically soak the chore boy in Hoppes #9 and have at it, works pretty well. Uh no :-) But will be glad to bring it to you for mercury treatment :-) |
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Hoppe's make a lead removing solvent too. I mop it in my pistols after shooting cast bullets and let it soak some then run a SS tornado brush through. This of course is just "normal" minor lead fouling.
I know the OP's problem was more severe and he got good advice here. I just wanted to let you all know about the Hoope's. |
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Use a Outers Foul-out system with Outers lead-out solution. Yeah I saw this, but it appears to be discontinued. All that remains is the homebrew solutions. it also seems the solutions for home brew only deal with copper, no mention of formula's for lead removal from what my searches reveal. any help here? I'm game for home brew if it works good and won't mess anything up. |
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility. We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. It will also remove bluing but it sure works good on lead. Just be careful with it. |
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Quoted: There is a commercial product called the Lewis Lead Remover. It is solid brass screens which attach to a cleaning rod. http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_516100038_1.jpg One word of caution about the copper scrubbers. Some are copper-plated steel. <-- That's bad. Be sure to get the solid brass scrubbers. I used a Lewis Lead Remover for years back when I was shooting 38 revolvers in competition, I loaded swaged 38 wadcutters, very accurate but soft and leaded terribly. After every practice session and match I would spend huge amounts of time with the LLR getting the lead out, it was slow, but it worked. I bought a video from Wilson about the care and feeding of the 1911, on that video he recommended the COPPER Chore Boy wrapped around a bronze brush, I tried it, it worked and it was FAST! I could get more lead out in a couple of minutes than I could in 30 minutes or more with the Lewis Lead Remover. So, the lesson learned: Lewis Lead Remover, it works but its slow. Copper Chore Boy, it works and its FAST! |
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It will also remove bluing but it sure works good on lead. Just be careful with it. Quoted:
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility. We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. It will also remove bluing but it sure works good on lead. Just be careful with it. . Make sure the bbl is rinsed out, then quick run through with some gun oil. |
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I have the Lewis lead remover in .357 through 45 caliber. It works very well. Once you get your alloy and load correct you never need it but its sure nice to have during load development.
Wingman26, I bet with what you have learned since "back then" you could load and shoot those swaged bullets without getting excessive lead build up. 
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility. We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. I knew I should have worn gloves after reading the lead stays in the solution. Next time I will wear them. |
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I knew I should have worn gloves after reading the lead stays in the solution. Next time I will wear them. Quoted:
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility. We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. I knew I should have worn gloves after reading the lead stays in the solution. Next time I will wear them. Don't forget a respirator, the mixture bubbles. up putting particulates in the air. |
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Don't forget a respirator, the mixture bubbles. up putting particulates in the air. Quoted:
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Just be careful with the 50/50 vinegar and peroxide solution. It produces lead acetate which is more easily absorbed into the skin and needs to be disposed of at a proper waste treatment facility. We use it on .22lr suppressor baffles which get really leaded up, but treat it with respect as far as safety gear is concerned. I knew I should have worn gloves after reading the lead stays in the solution. Next time I will wear them. Don't forget a respirator, the mixture bubbles. up putting particulates in the air. Correct. I used it once and it did a great job, but the safety precautions needed while using it and the trip to a hazmat facility to properly dispose of it has caused me to just use a little elbow grease to knock the lead build up off my .22 suppressor baffles. |
| So this copper chore boy people mention cleaning barrels with, is this safe to run this with a cleaning rod through the entire barrel using a solvent or something? I know its softer than the steel but it wont at least mark it or mess with accuracy spinning on a drill? |
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I would not use anything "spinning on a drill" in a rifled bore.
The copper chore boy should just be pushed through the bore like a tight patch. The copper strands act like knife edges and scrape out the softer lead while not harming the steel. You could use it with lead removing solvent but make sure its not a "multi purpose" bore cleaner that also removes copper fouling which will eat the chore boy and make it useless. |
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