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Posted: 3/20/2014 7:30:49 AM EDT
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A Dillon 650 reload press with a lot of 'belles/whistles was set up at the indoor range that I go to. It was set up as a training aid to teach reloading. All I can say is 'WOW' it is sure nice. Not sure about the cost but....
They have it set up for 9mm and it appears to put out some nice ammo. It will be interesting to watch where this al goes. |
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Quoted:
A Dillon 650 reload press with a lot of 'belles/whistles was set up at the indoor range that I go to. It was set up as a training aid to teach reloading. All I can say is 'WOW' it is sure nice. Not sure about the cost but.... They have it set up for 9mm and it appears to put out some nice ammo. It will be interesting to watch where this al goes. Worth every penny if you're a high volume shooter. I can crank out 2-300 rounds of 9mil faster than i can go to walmart and buy some, and my ammo is cheaper. The 1050 is how i would go if i did it over. I like the built in swager for military brass (i use a lot in 5.56). |
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Quoted: Worth every penny if you're a high volume shooter. I can crank out 2-300 rounds of 9mil faster than i can go to walmart and buy some, and my ammo is cheaper. The 1050 is how i would go if i did it over. I like the built in swager for military brass (i use a lot in 5.56). Quoted: Quoted: A Dillon 650 reload press with a lot of 'belles/whistles was set up at the indoor range that I go to. It was set up as a training aid to teach reloading. All I can say is 'WOW' it is sure nice. Not sure about the cost but.... They have it set up for 9mm and it appears to put out some nice ammo. It will be interesting to watch where this al goes. Worth every penny if you're a high volume shooter. I can crank out 2-300 rounds of 9mil faster than i can go to walmart and buy some, and my ammo is cheaper. The 1050 is how i would go if i did it over. I like the built in swager for military brass (i use a lot in 5.56). I started with a 550B and after 4½ years and 70,000+ rds on it I decided I needed a casefeeder for both pistol and rifle so I bought a 650, casefeeder, Dillon trimmer, etc. and sold my 550B for 80% of the current retail price. While I started with 3 calibers, I now handload 12 calibers (6 straight wall pistol and 6 rifle) and wouldn't give up my 650 for any other press. It's true that the Super 1050 is slick, however, it's designed to be set up for a single caliber and then pump out commercial quantities of quality ammo while the XL650 was designed for the handloader and assumes that they'll swap calibers. As such, caliber conversions with the Super 1050 are either really expensive (the Super 1050's Quick Change Kit is $271 + Caliber Conversion at $122 = $393 per caliber vs a 650's Quick Change Kit is $108 + Caliber Conversion at $78 = $186 per caliber [a $207 difference per caliber!!]) and/or time consuming (usually both). Because buying toolheads for each caliber plus case prep toolheads for rifle cases to make for an easier swap is not only wildly expensive, but swapping a 1050's toolhead isn't a 15 second job like it is on a 550B or XL650. That's not to say you can't do the caliber swap by just changing out the dies, primer assy, etc., but that takes a long time to readjust everything on either press and I chose to buy complete Quick Change sets for my 650 so my caliber conversions are the 8 minute variety vs ½ hour+ with a Super 1050. Check out Dillon's Manuals for the XL650 and Super 1050 HERE and read what is involved with swapping each press' toolhead. |
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Had a Lee Loadmaster... returned in a week due to continuous "tweeking" needed.
Had a Lock-N-Load... Had it for a year. Got tired of of trying to fix their design flaws. Had a Dillon 650xl for about 8 months now. Other than a few improvements (Live primer chute, spent primer chute), it's worked fantastic. Not had to re-engineer their design. Looking towards buying a Super 1050 this year to add to the 650. |
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I can switch out between 45 ACP and 9 MM in about 5 minutes. Get a full primer assembly. Makes it a snap.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/content/p/9/pid/25389/catid/45/XL_650_Primer_System_Parts |
| I have a 650 with casefeeder and Mr. Bullet feeder, I upgraded from a Lee Classic Turret, and MAN it was a massive upgrade. I absolutely LOVE the thing, and would highly recommend one, it's well worth the money if you can't afford a 1050 (or have various calibers). |
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Exactly, everything points to the 650 for me because of many calibers I load. Buying mine in 2 weeks or so. I have a dillon swagger already. The SS600 can be tweeked a bit also. Makes things go a little easier, with fewer kills. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/420056_How_to_setup_Dillon_600_swager_tool_.html http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/420329_Vee_Block_for_Dillon_600_helps_center_case_up_down_and_side_to_side_to_engage_swage_tip.html |
| While on 'duty' last night, I watched one of the guys reload 200 9MM in short order. What did surprise me was that he was not sitting the bullet fully straight, but it seemed to 'self' center when it was seating. On the press that I currently (not a Dillon) I need to pay attention to the bullets and make sure that they are straight when seating. Even though we shoot a 'fair' amount I am not sure that I can justify the cost of a nice Dillon set up. |
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So, you current owners, what are the first upgrades you would do on the 650? I will be loading 9, 40, 45 & 223. I also load 260, bust I do not see dillon dies for 260 Rem. If you really want to churn out the rounds get a bullet feeder for sure. I only had my 650 for a month before I added one, and I love, love LOVE it! I'm loading 9, 45, 223 and 300 BLK. For nearly free add-on's: - Snip one coil off the detent ball spring under the shell plate. Helps prevent powder from sloshing out of pistol rounds. - Chuck the spent primer cup and add a drop tube that empties into a soda bottle http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag90/jimdacey/IMG_20140320_170341_zps7b59d854.jpg - Position a convex mirror (from auto parts store) on top of the case feeder so you can see how much brass you have left without climbing on top of the loader. http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag90/jimdacey/IMG_20140320_170355_zps2de881cf.jpg - LED lights. There are a couple of different kits out there http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag90/jimdacey/IMG_20140320_170422_zpsb6722c82.jpg My 2 cents, Jimmy-D |
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I started with a 550B and after 4½ years and 70,000+ rds on it I decided I needed a casefeeder for both pistol and rifle so I bought a 650, casefeeder, Dillon trimmer, etc. and sold my 550B for 80% of the current retail price. While I started with 3 calibers, I now handload 12 calibers (6 straight wall pistol and 6 rifle) and wouldn't give up my 650 for any other press. It's true that the Super 1050 is slick, however, it's designed to be set up for a single caliber and then pump out commercial quantities of quality ammo while the XL650 was designed for the handloader and assumes that they'll swap calibers. As such, caliber conversions with the Super 1050 are either really expensive (the Super 1050's Quick Change Kit is $271 + Caliber Conversion at $122 = $393 per caliber vs a 650's Quick Change Kit is $108 + Caliber Conversion at $78 = $186 per caliber [a $207 difference per caliber!!]) and/or time consuming (usually both). Because buying toolheads for each caliber plus case prep toolheads for rifle cases to make for an easier swap is not only wildly expensive, but swapping a 1050's toolhead isn't a 15 second job like it is on a 550B or XL650. That's not to say you can't do the caliber swap by just changing out the dies, primer assy, etc., but that takes a long time to readjust everything on either press and I chose to buy complete Quick Change sets for my 650 so my caliber conversions are the 8 minute variety vs ½ hour+ with a Super 1050. Check out Dillon's Manuals for the XL650 and Super 1050 HERE and read what is involved with swapping each press' toolhead. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
A Dillon 650 reload press with a lot of 'belles/whistles was set up at the indoor range that I go to. It was set up as a training aid to teach reloading. All I can say is 'WOW' it is sure nice. Not sure about the cost but.... They have it set up for 9mm and it appears to put out some nice ammo. It will be interesting to watch where this al goes. Worth every penny if you're a high volume shooter. I can crank out 2-300 rounds of 9mil faster than i can go to walmart and buy some, and my ammo is cheaper. The 1050 is how i would go if i did it over. I like the built in swager for military brass (i use a lot in 5.56). I started with a 550B and after 4½ years and 70,000+ rds on it I decided I needed a casefeeder for both pistol and rifle so I bought a 650, casefeeder, Dillon trimmer, etc. and sold my 550B for 80% of the current retail price. While I started with 3 calibers, I now handload 12 calibers (6 straight wall pistol and 6 rifle) and wouldn't give up my 650 for any other press. It's true that the Super 1050 is slick, however, it's designed to be set up for a single caliber and then pump out commercial quantities of quality ammo while the XL650 was designed for the handloader and assumes that they'll swap calibers. As such, caliber conversions with the Super 1050 are either really expensive (the Super 1050's Quick Change Kit is $271 + Caliber Conversion at $122 = $393 per caliber vs a 650's Quick Change Kit is $108 + Caliber Conversion at $78 = $186 per caliber [a $207 difference per caliber!!]) and/or time consuming (usually both). Because buying toolheads for each caliber plus case prep toolheads for rifle cases to make for an easier swap is not only wildly expensive, but swapping a 1050's toolhead isn't a 15 second job like it is on a 550B or XL650. That's not to say you can't do the caliber swap by just changing out the dies, primer assy, etc., but that takes a long time to readjust everything on either press and I chose to buy complete Quick Change sets for my 650 so my caliber conversions are the 8 minute variety vs ½ hour+ with a Super 1050. Check out Dillon's Manuals for the XL650 and Super 1050 HERE and read what is involved with swapping each press' toolhead. Never spent 30 minutes changing the 1050 over not even the very first time , a complete strip, clean and lube maybe then. I reload 12 calibers and figure I've got under $850 tied up in the conversions. I've also found no need for more then 2 toolheads and really you only need 2 if your making 300blk brass , same with powder measures never seen the need for more then 1, I empty it at the end of a run as I don't leave powder in a measure. 1 statement I've yet to see on any forum is, God I wished I had bought a 650 instead of a 1050  but sure have seen a lot of guys saying they wished they had bought the 1050 sooner or had just bought it in the first place.
If you set down and actually work with both presses you'll find that the 1050 is a much easier press to work with and setup and learn on . I reload for a 6x6.8 and the only decent priced brass is crimped, right now I'm waiting on a custom trim die so that I'll be able to process brass in 1 pass which will involve 3 neck diameter changes , removing the primer crimp and triming to lenght |
| BrianEnos.com is the place to buy Dillon stuff from, my 650 with casefeeder, dies, as it should be, and extra primer tubes was 1070 delivered, I have added a LED light kit, and upgraded the spent primer cup to a hose n bottle set up, I have been reloading precision rifle rounds for a long time and I have all the kool tools for that, but reloading pistol on a single stage sucks, set up on the 650 was easy, I downloaded the manual and read it a couple times before the 650 showed up. |
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Never spent 30 minutes changing the 1050 over not even the very first time , a complete strip, clean and lube maybe then. I reload 12 calibers and figure I've got under $850 tied up in the conversions. I've also found no need for more then 2 toolheads and really you only need 2 if your making 300blk brass , same with powder measures never seen the need for more then 1, I empty it at the end of a run as I don't leave powder in a measure. 1 statement I've yet to see on any forum is, God I wished I had bought a 650 instead of a 1050 but sure have seen a lot of guys saying they wished they had bought the 1050 sooner or had just bought it in the first place.
If you set down and actually work with both presses you'll find that the 1050 is a much easier press to work with and setup and learn on . I reload for a 6x6.8 and the only decent priced brass is crimped, right now I'm waiting on a custom trim die so that I'll be able to process brass in 1 pass which will involve 3 neck diameter changes , removing the primer crimp and triming to lenght Where is the best place to buy once-fired 6.8 brass? I'm so heavily invested in .308 and .223 that I will probably will never have a 6.8 rifle, but it is tempting. By the way, I have a 550B and a 1050. Dearly love them both. |
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Quoted: Where is the best place to buy once-fired 6.8 brass? I'm so heavily invested in .308 and .223 that I will probably will never have a 6.8 rifle, but it is tempting. By the way, I have a 550B and a 1050. Dearly love them both. Quoted: Quoted: Never spent 30 minutes changing the 1050 over not even the very first time , a complete strip, clean and lube maybe then. I reload 12 calibers and figure I've got under $850 tied up in the conversions. I've also found no need for more then 2 toolheads and really you only need 2 if your making 300blk brass , same with powder measures never seen the need for more then 1, I empty it at the end of a run as I don't leave powder in a measure. 1 statement I've yet to see on any forum is, God I wished I had bought a 650 instead of a 1050 but sure have seen a lot of guys saying they wished they had bought the 1050 sooner or had just bought it in the first place.If you set down and actually work with both presses you'll find that the 1050 is a much easier press to work with and setup and learn on . I reload for a 6x6.8 and the only decent priced brass is crimped, right now I'm waiting on a custom trim die so that I'll be able to process brass in 1 pass which will involve 3 neck diameter changes , removing the primer crimp and triming to lenght Where is the best place to buy once-fired 6.8 brass? I'm so heavily invested in .308 and .223 that I will probably will never have a 6.8 rifle, but it is tempting. By the way, I have a 550B and a 1050. Dearly love them both. Please use the "where to find" tacked thread at the top of the page to ask this question. Don't get this thread locked. Thanks.
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So, you current owners, what are the first upgrades you would do on the 650? I will be loading 9, 40, 45 & 223. I also load 260, bust I do not see dillon dies for 260 Rem. There is a company on ebay selling lighting kits for the 650. I have parts on order to make my own. I also suggest buying quick change kits, and one extra toolhead and stand just for decapping and sizing. I couldn't live without the roller handle. They sell a plastic one that is cheaper than the aluminum version. |
| I've had a 650 for over 25 years and love it. It came with the case feeder but make sure you get the extra feeder plates for the cases you plan on loading. Take your time changing over to different calibers it is easy to miss a step. have plenty of brass on hand, I like to do at least 2000 rounds at a time, to some new people that sounds like a lot but once you start cranking that handle it goes fast. |
| Currently have a square deal love it for the pistol rounds. However going to start the rifle reloads for primarily 556 - 300win mag - 308. Cant decide between the 550 or 650. I like the progressive as is on the square deal so i like the 650, but few reloaders told me that with taller cases that they bounce around alot. Is this true? The 550 looks same but you move it to next station. |
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Quoted: Currently have a square deal love it for the pistol rounds. However going to start the rifle reloads for primarily 556 - 300win mag - 308. Cant decide between the 550 or 650. I like the progressive as is on the square deal so i like the 650, but few reloaders told me that with taller cases that they bounce around alot. Is this true? The 550 looks same but you move it to next station. Yes Rifle cases do bounce around. I do alot of 30-06 and they wobble (but this is not a problem - Smooth and fast is the key). The 550 or 650 will do rifle cases with just about the same effort with one exception. The 550 will not support auto casefeeding for rifle cartridges. The 650 does. The question is if you need to crank out thousands of rifle cartridges a month, get a 650, if not be happy with a 550. |
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Quoted:
Currently have a square deal love it for the pistol rounds. However going to start the rifle reloads for primarily 556 - 300win mag - 308. Cant decide between the 550 or 650. I like the progressive as is on the square deal so i like the 650, but few reloaders told me that with taller cases that they bounce around alot. Is this true? The 550 looks same but you move it to next station. I have both and think they're both fantastic, but honestly I find it easier to make small adjustments on the 550. You can index it back and forth a lot more easily. That said once it's locked in, get ready to rock because the 650 is waaaay faster. I wouldn't buy a 650 without a feeder personally, and the initial outlay for a 550 is far lower, and the caliber conversions cost about half as much. |
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Quoted: That's good stuff. I will order the case feeder same time as press. That should tap the card out for a bit. : ) Before you order, check out my pinned post on some Cheap Tips and Tricks for Dillon 550B and XL650. Lots of the suggestions can save you money. Also, I've had good luck with Lee Deluxe Carbide 4 die Pistol die sets. They are half the price of Dillon's sets and I like the hand adjustable bullet seater and crimper dies better than Dillon's wrench adjustable ones. I have Lee sets in 38spl/357mag, 40s&w/10mm, 45acp, and 45Colt. I also have Lee's 30Carbine die set with a carbide resizing die. I've handloaded upwards of 140,000rds of pistol ammo using them and they still work like new. My necked rifle die sets in .223/5.56, 30-30, .308, and 30-06 are a combination of a Dillon resizing die plus the bullet seating and FCD die from the Lee Pacesetter rifle die sets. Bought together, they are still cheaper than the Dillon set and again, I prefer the hand adjustable bullet seater die Lee makes over Dillon's wrench adjustable version. Note: you'll not need Lee's Powder Thru die as the Dillon Caliber Conversion Kit comes with the correct powder die for your Dillon Powder Measure. That said, I've found it cheaper to just buy the set of Lee dies for the caliber you want and not use the powder die than to buy individual resizing, bullet seating, and crimping dies separately. Same with the rifle setups; I buy a Lee Pacesetter Die set plus Dillon's resizing die, not use Lee's powder thru or resizing dies, and that's still cheaper than Dillon's set alone. ETA: I forgot to mention, I mount all my dies using Dillon's special 1" die lock rings (I buy them in sets) as it allows me to use both their wrench and more importantly, a 1" deep well socket I have. The socket makes quick work of tightening my dies as it fits right over the top of each. |
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