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1/7/2014 4:35:06 PM EDT
I am going to start reloading some .40 cases.  When I looked at the specifications for the case, it stated the case length is .850.  Almost all of the cases I've measured mic out at .831.



Is there a problem with this?  This is my first try at reloading, having never reloaded a rifle or pistol cartridge.  



Thanks
1/7/2014 5:11:50 PM EDT
[#1]
The length listed is normally the maximum allowable length. I don't load 40s very often so I can't say off hand what is "normal" length.
1/7/2014 6:33:49 PM EDT
[#2]
My Winchester 40 S&W cases measure between .838-.844" with most at .840".
1/7/2014 6:52:08 PM EDT
[#3]
Don't worry about the case length. I load lots of 9mm and 45 and never had a case length issue. The most common issue I have ran into are bulged cases on 9mm. I have hardly loaded 40 but it is more known for case bulging. It is easy to tell when you have a bulged case as the press takes quite a bit more force to re-size the case.
1/7/2014 7:01:57 PM EDT
[#4]
You need to pay attention to 40 that has been fired out of a Glock. The unsupported chamber lets the case blow out a bit which can cause a blow out if conditions are right. I've witnessed this happen 2 times before.
1/7/2014 7:04:23 PM EDT
[#5]
I was worried about case length when I started loading pistol rounds.  Several people told me they've never measured or trimmed a straight wall pistol case and I didn't need to worry about it.

I would be more concerned with a full length sizing die with a .40.
1/7/2014 7:38:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Link
2nd link
With 40 S&W  to make the reloads absolutely reliable I use one of thes sizer dies which pushes the case all the way through the die. On most carbide dies the shell holder covers a small  part of the base of the case which with some pistols can cause a jam.   I typically use a carbide size die then run them through this die I wish I had the carbide version but dont then I expand the case mouth slightly  clean the primer pocket reprime add powder  add bullet seat bullet  done.  If you are fortunate enough to have a progressive press you still probably should do the prep work on a single stage with this caliber  the first die in a carbide set will de cap removing the primer and resize at that point I prefer to clean the primer pocket and check the flash hole especially if you use a brass polisher some of the compound can get stuck in the flash hole.  I never trim the lengh of pistol brass.  I always trim the length of rifle brass. I find Power Pistol to be a fine choice of powder for a  40 S&W and I prefer the 155 gr hollowpoint bullets.  Stay within the loads recommeded by the manufacturer of the bullet.  Have a device to measure the overall length   OAL  of the bullet so you know it wont be too long for the magazines.   Stay Safe
1/7/2014 8:27:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Thanks everyone.  I'm going to start tomorrow.  
1/7/2014 9:07:08 PM EDT
[#8]
I don't know what press you are using, but when I had a 550 and now with 650 I put an Evolution Gun Works/Lee Undersize die in at station #1.  Then the last station is the Lee Factory Crimp die.  Before I got those two dies, Ivwould case gauge every round.  Now, I just do the first 5 to 10 off the press and that's it.

1/7/2014 10:19:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Lee factory crimp die with the bulge buster kit is the best route for glock 40 reloads.
1/8/2014 4:59:27 AM EDT
[#10]
If you don't have a case gage you will want to "plunk" test your rounds. Remove the barrel from the pistol the ammo is intended for and drop a loaded round into the chamber. It should be below the barrel hood or no more than flush, never above. Straight wall cases headspace on the case mouth and if the round sits above the hood you need to check your seating or crimping operation.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
1/8/2014 5:27:19 AM EDT
[#11]
I've loaded thousands of 40 cases and never measured one. I have yet to have one malfunction. And I've reloaded plenty of "glocked" 40 brass with regular Dillon dies without issue.
1/8/2014 8:01:51 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote History
Quoted:
Link
2nd link
With 40 S&W  to make the reloads absolutely reliable I use one of thes sizer dies which pushes the case all the way through the die. On most carbide dies the shell holder covers a small  part of the base of the case which with some pistols can cause a jam.   I typically use a carbide size die then run them through this die I wish I had the carbide version but dont then I expand the case mouth slightly  clean the primer pocket reprime add powder  add bullet seat bullet  done.  If you are fortunate enough to have a progressive press you still probably should do the prep work on a single stage with this caliber  the first die in a carbide set will de cap removing the primer and resize at that point I prefer to clean the primer pocket and check the flash hole especially if you use a brass polisher some of the compound can get stuck in the flash hole.  I never trim the lengh of pistol brass.  I always trim the length of rifle brass. I find Power Pistol to be a fine choice of powder for a  40 S&W and I prefer the 155 gr hollowpoint bullets.  Stay within the loads recommeded by the manufacturer of the bullet.  Have a device to measure the overall length   OAL  of the bullet so you know it wont be too long for the magazines.   Stay Safe
View Quote

Geez what a colossal waste of time and effort.

Screw an EGW Lee undersize sizing die iin a progressive and crank out reliable ammo with no case prep other than lube, even from bulged Glock brass.
1/10/2014 2:36:55 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote History
Quoted:
I've loaded thousands of 40 cases and never measured one. I have yet to have one malfunction. And I've reloaded plenty of "glocked" 40 brass with regular Dillon dies without issue.
View Quote


me too, been shooting 40 in USPSA for 10 years and also have never measured a case.  I do use a chamber checker however and a Lee FCD.
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