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Posted: 9/27/2013 10:34:37 AM EDT
| I am just now able to afford to get into reloading. My press and dies are on their way from midway, as well as a small batch of Hornady HAP bullets, (a variation of the XTP). To begin with I am just going to reload for my 9mm until I get the hang of it and accumulate more brass in my other calibers. I really don't want to pay the hazmat fees for buying powder online right now (not ready to buy bulk yet). The only pistol powder I seem to be able to get locally at the moment is Alliant Power Pistol. What seems to be the consensus on this stuff? Any also, any advice for a newbie would be much appreciated. |
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Power Pistol works well in 9mm. What weight bullet? http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/408041_New_to_9mm_loading.html Here is a good thread for you to read. |
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Just trying to figure out where you are at manual wise. Go to Alliant's web site for some data. (Links at top of page for a link if you need it) I suggest Lyman 49 for a first manual. Has Power Pistol 9mm data, also cast and jacketed data for all calibers. About $20. |
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Quoted:
Just trying to figure out where you are at manual wise. Go to Alliant's web site for some data. (Links at top of page for a link if you need it) I suggest Lyman 49 for a first manual. Has Power Pistol 9mm data, also cast and jacketed data for all calibers. About $20. ^ Manual would be my next purchase. Welcome! Power Pistol will work great! |
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Welcome. I started reloading on the 50 BMG. It was like a toddler playing with big tinker toys. I now reload more than I shoot. It is that addictive. Do all my pistol and most rifle.
As someone said, I have tried Win 231 and its sister HP 38, Titegroup and Power Pistol for 9 mm. Really love Power Pistol the best. Works great for 45 ACP too. Be careful and have fun....!!! |
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You'll be well served by having more than one manual. I'd suggest the Lymans along with the 'ABCs of reloading.'
Lyman's has a good amount of load data, while IMO the ABCs goes more into detail on the reloading process itself. You're doing the right thing, IMO, starting out on pistol - (most) pistol rounds are simpler to reload than rifle, and will get you into reloading sanely and safely. You're going to want to consider buying projectiles (and powder, and primers) in larger quantity. One nice thing about Powder Valley (although they burned me badly on a primer order :-/ ) is you can pick up all of the powder manufacturers mini-loadbooks for free or 1cent each, so even if not ready (or not in stock) to pick up a big quantity of primers and powder, it's well worth picking up some projectiles from them, and adding all their basic reloaders manuals (go into powder, then each manufacturer), as I've seen them sold elsewhere for ~$10 each. You may want to consider picking up a 'Loadsbook USA' which is basically nothing but load data from most of the manufacturers for a single caliber..for $10 or less, e.g. Loadbooks USA for 9mm You don't mention what press and dies you're picking up, but hopefully they're carbide dies. I still use a little bit of lube with my (Lee) carbide 9mm dies, but it's definitely worth going carbide, IMO. case gage - up to you, at least for pistol. Some people remove their barrel and use that, others buy a case gage. I'm in the latter; I have a case gage for every caliber I load. You also didn't mention which 9mm you're going to load for, but I'd recommend determining the maximum overall length for your specific gun. You can do this by grabbing a new projectile and a few fired, cleaned, but not yet re-sized cases. Find a case that lets you slip a projectile into the top of it but will more or less hold it with light tension. Take out the barrel of your gun. Sit a projectile in the fired case intentionally long (by hand), and then push the round into the chamber until it's seated properly. Remove gently, and measure OAL with a pair of calipers. Do this a few times until you get what you're sure is the correct value, then take a few thousands off to be your specific max OAL for that gun and specific projectile. Write it down somewhere. If you change projectiles, do the same again. Your 9mm will headspace off the case mouth, but different profile projectiles may come into contact with the bore sooner, which you don't want, as it can raise chamber pressures. Here's a great set of pics explaining it on a CZ forum: CZ Forum OAL pics Most factory 9mm FMJ rounds I've seen are loaded at ~1.15", and HPs around 1.10". There isn't any real 'magic' around the numbers that I'm aware of, other than accounting for the difference in ogive/projectile profile, those OALs will load and fire in a majority of pistols. You're going to see load data 'all over the place' on OAL - some mfgs use SAAMI max of 1.169", while nearly no one loads their 9mm that long. Just be aware as you make a round shorter, it will increase pressure and velocity, and always work your rounds up from at or near the min. load charges. Most of the powder and component manufacturers have load data online. Hogdon Load data - covers Hogdon, Winchester, and IMR Alliant load data - pretty limited load data. IMPORTANT: Alliant only gives max loads in their data, subtract 10% for the minimum charge data, do NOT start at their stated values online! Ramshot load data Having multiple sets of load data is especially useful to 'sanity check' other sources, as well as trying to match up with your specific projectiles being loaded. Sadly, Hornady doesn't publish any of their load data online, but you can get some of it in different powder manufacturers load data, in the Loadbooks USA book, and in some of the various reloading manuals, or of course, by picking up Hornady's manual. Sometimes you may not be able to find an exact match for a projectile being loaded - find the closets you can in weight (e.g. 115gr, 124/5gr, etc.), type(RN, JHP..), as well as construction (plated, lead, jacketed). Plated and lead pretty much use the same data, which is generally on the lower side of fully jacketed projectiles. If you can't find a match for type, in the worst case, you can start at the low end of an equivalent weight jacketed projectile. (I only load jacketed today - there's little price benefit between plated and jacketed today in 9mm that I've seen, and no benefits to plated other than formerly being cheaper). You may eventually (probably should) want to invest in a chronograph. While it's unlikely to match the published data (a lot of companies use special fixtures, test barrels/rigs, etc...not the same as your specific gun/barrel), it can tell you when you're likely starting to reach 'too hot,' as well as the point of diminishing returns. If you wind up picking one up, I'd suggest the Pro Chrono as the best bang for the buck. Everyone will come on to tell you to buy what they did, but only a few have compared to others. I haven't used all of them, but did find a lot of people unhappy with Shooting Chronys, while the Pro Chrono had 95% or more satisfaction, while measuring almost identically with more expensive chronos. If money's no object, more expensive options are available, but my $ is on this one for bang for buck/value. Without a chrono, I'd stay away from approaching max loads. Lots more, but this is way too long of a post, and you just can't cover everything. ;) If you post what press you're getting, people may have some press specific tips. Get your hands on one or more reloading manuals, take notes where you have questions, and ask away...and read some of the tutorials available online. |
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