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Posted: 4/24/2013 12:24:04 PM EDT
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How much increase in powder charge do you use when working up loads for a semi-auto? I have only reloaded rifle cartridges up to this point.
Will be using 185 JHP, WW LP primers, and Unique/WST/Titegroup. Going to try 1.215"OAL to see how it shoots **This load is being made to practice my gun handling skills and learn the weapon. Not for match or self defense or stuff like that |
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Take the max load and back it off 10%, or start at the minimum and work up. Generally on handguns with low amounts of powder I go .2gr.
You aren't going to see standard pressure signs like in a rifle or some other pistols in such a low pressure round, unless you're way, way hot. For any load development a chronograph is a very important tool, especially in something like this. It can tell you if you are in the velocity range for that barrel length, charge, etc, and when you're getting near max, even if you don't see signs and even if you aren't at the listed max. What you want to look for is accuracy in a moderate load if you're not looking to carry with them. Load a few of each, and shoot them through a chrony and see where you're at and take notes on velocity, feel , etc. Then, as long as that's all good, load 15 of each charge and shoot three 5 round groups , and see which is the most accurate with the recoil that you want. That will be your load. |
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Quoted:
looking online it appears for a 3.5" barrel with 185 JHP velocity should be around 900 for factory velocity. How would I find out what velocity range I should be looking for in the compact 1911? Go back to the manufacturer for velocity information. What cycles at 675 fps in my Government models wont come close to cycling in my Officers that won't cycle below 850. For cycle, every time reliability I'm running a185 grain Barnes at 960 fps. There's another variation, bullet weight. Your compact 1911 could've been timed with in number of recoil and main spring weights combinations. I've got one Government model won't cycle much below 875 fps, then again I've put together springs for 1,000 plus fps load. dc. |
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Quoted: None. Max load for Hornady 185 gr Titegroup is 6.1 gr. This is a bad answer. Please reread my last IM to you. OP, How much you go up depends on the range between the "start" and max load. If a 2 grain range, I would probably go up .3 or .4 grain at a time. Less of a range, smaller steps. |
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Remember that in most 1911 type 45s the feed ramp leaves a cresent of the cartridge case unsupported . You will not see pressure signs such as flat primers
If you are pushing things too much your first sign might be a magazine and grips flying off the gun (ruptured case) Good news is there is lots of published load info out there . Sounds like you are looking for a reliable range load , usually the most accurate loads in the 45 pistol are not right up against the stops . Good reliability usually isn't found with the weaker loads. Besides the powder charge bullet shape and length can effect reliability and this will varry a bit from gun to gun . Get yourself a case gauge or remove your barrel and use it as a gauge to check your work. I find that no matter how carefull I am there are some cases that are a bit tight in my gauge . I set them aside and shoot them for practise, most work ok or with a bit of a bump will chamber but I don't want them in with my regular ammo |
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excellent replies. Much appreciated. Looking at data max was 8.2 gr. So I started at 6.5 gr and went up to book max. Then 0.1 gr over book max. I did take my barrel out to find the adjustment that passed the "plunk test". Which was 1.220". For reliability I went with 1.215". Hoping to get out there tom and shoot with a shooting buddy that knows about this chambering and he is bringing a chrony to get an idea of what is going on.
**side note...after setting everything up and seating 50 rounds. 4 of them had a pretty noticeable bulge about half way up the case. I'm assuming this was just soft brass. The others seated fine right around my desired OAL. |
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Quoted:
excellent replies. Much appreciated. Looking at data max was 8.2 gr. So I started at 6.5 gr and went up to book max. Then 0.1 gr over book max. I did take my barrel out to find the adjustment that passed the "plunk test". Which was 1.220". For reliability I went with 1.215". Hoping to get out there tom and shoot with a shooting buddy that knows about this chambering and he is bringing a chrony to get an idea of what is going on. **side note...after setting everything up and seating 50 rounds. 4 of them had a pretty noticeable bulge about half way up the case. I'm assuming this was just soft brass. The others seated fine right around my desired OAL. Check the diameter of the bulge. You may be belling the case too much. Only bell a tiny bit. You want .469. |
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Oh now I get it. I thought he was asking how much do you add extra when using a semiauto. he was asking how big of a step. My new answer is subtract the min charge from the max charge and divide by 4. And I still stand by what I said earlier I wasn't being flippant it is absolutely logical. Quit watching me sleep your getting creepy. Please read posts carefully before giving answers to new reloaders or anyone else. Dangerous advice will not be tolerated in this forum. This is a technical forum not GD, so post what you mean, not what you meant to post. If you want to give me a creepy answer do it in an IM, not in a post. dryflash3 |
| my case mouth of flared case is 0.473". After crimping with the Lee Seater die I can not get that number to go below 0.472".Sized case mouth are right around 0.469". I read you want to crimp just enough to take the flare out but that would mean after crimping it would be 0.469" It appears right now the die is putting a decent crimp on it, as pulled bullets have a decent crimp ring around it. |
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Quoted:
my case mouth of flared case is 0.473". After crimping with the Lee Seater die I can not get that number to go below 0.472".Sized case mouth are right around 0.469". I read you want to crimp just enough to take the flare out but that would mean after crimping it would be 0.469" It appears right now the die is putting a decent crimp on it, as pulled bullets have a decent crimp ring around it. What you want to do is to adjust your die so that it bells the case very slightly, just enough to not remove lead if it's a lead bullet, or in this case, just enough to allow the bullet to seat without damaging the case. The crimp die should only be enough to remove the bell, and not enough to leave marks on the bullet. Run one case through your powder die, and then measure it. Adjust accordingly. Some pistols feed fine at .471-.472, but ideally it should be no more than .470 and .469 is usually a guarantee of excellent feeding. |
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sorry I went back and remeasured. I was measuring just below case mouth. I took readings measuring again more accurately and this is what i got. FL sized case mouth is 0.469". How I have expanding die now flares case mouth out to 0.478 IIRC. Bullets are measuring 0.4525. Checked my loaded rounds and their measuring 0.4715 right at mouth
I am going to see if I can get my shooting friend to come over and help me set up the flaring die and the seater. I may be getting the LFCD after reading your suggestions and have heard great things about it. So something is not set up right somewhere. Just have to figure it out |
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Remember Guys-
Accuracy trumps mega velocity in the 45 acp.If you have a decent velocity (over 800 fps) shot placement will give you desired resulfs. You do not need more velocity,unlike the 9mm and 40 the bullet is already 45 cal. Your bullet must hit it's mark at a moderate velocity,even 900 fps in a 185 bullet will be an awsome manstopper if you hit your taget in the A zone. Later John |
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