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Posted: 3/3/2013 5:44:43 PM EDT
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Along with all the other reloading supplies, it seems that case lube is out of stock locally as well.
What are some alternative compounds that will work just as well as a manuf case lube. I've heard mink oil?? like the type you waterproof boots with. Any other tried and proven solutions? Not looking to experiment, I've already stuck a case twice in my die and have no desire to do it again. These are .223 cases we are talking about. thanks. |
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Google homemade case lube or DIY case lube and you'll find a recipe people LOVE which uses pure liquid lanolin + 99%-90% isopropyl alcohol. I recall they mix 1 part lanolin to 12 parts alcohol. They say it works GREAT!
If I'm not too busy tomorrow I will post a link to the topic and a link to where to buy the least expensive pure liquid lanolin. I already bought four bottles of the lanolin but have yet to acquire the alcohol. |
| I heard a $1.86 can of Pam goes a long way if its applied correctly. But I heard you have to be careful of too much on the necks, as it causes shoulder dents if you don't wipe em clean before sizing. Other than that, I heard its works so well its silly, but it does remind you of breakfast |
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http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/305174_.html
this stuff works great. As others have mentioned. |
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This homemade lube works well. eta, got distracted, and took me a while to find this thread.  |
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Synthetic mortor oil. Cheap, available anywhere, works great, a quart of 5w30 lasts forever. Dip case mouth 1/8" in oil, size, next 4-10 cases (depending on caliber and dies) need no lube applied. Dip another one as you feel the pressure increasing. Tumble clean when done. Never a stuck case.
Google "Case lube synthetic motor oil" for video, check about 4 minutes in. |
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Either home made spray or a tin of Imperial will solve your case lube problems.
I expect a lube can be made from coconut oil, olive oil, or mixtures of those with bee's wax or parafin and maybe wintergreen oil. I've used petroleum oil and had no problems, but it's stinky and more difficult to remove from the cases than necessary. Not recommended. |
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+1 on the lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol mix. It's the best lube I've used so far. this is what I use,cheap and works great Agree. Take the time to get the 99% alcohol too. Once mixed (around 1:10 to 1:12 ratio) it will stay in suspension. Excellent stuff...... |
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I honestly do not understand why someone would use an "alternative case lube" when excellent case lube is available. Get some Imperial Sizing Die Wax from nearly any supplier. A small supply will last many years. It is excellent. 4 oz of lanolin costs approx $4-$5 online. 99% iso alcohol only costs a couple bucks at a local pharmacy. One bottle of lanolin makes approx 52 oz of excellent case lube. Most that have used it says it's better than manufacturer's lube, but a fraction of the price as retail lube. I don't understand why someone would use retail lube when they can make their own. Reloading is a DIY thing. I suppose that's why it draws in a lot of people that have that DIY mentality. We like to make our own stuff, its educational, it's fun, we save money and it's effective. |
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Quoted:
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I honestly do not understand why someone would use an "alternative case lube" when excellent case lube is available. Get some Imperial Sizing Die Wax from nearly any supplier. A small supply will last many years. It is excellent. 4 oz of lanolin costs approx $4-$5 online. 99% iso alcohol only costs a couple bucks at a local pharmacy. One bottle of lanolin makes approx 52 oz of excellent case lube. Most that have used it says it's better than manufacturer's lube, but a fraction of the price as retail lube. I don't understand why someone would use retail lube when they can make their own. Reloading is a DIY thing. I suppose that's why it draws in a lot of people that have that DIY mentality. We like to make our own stuff, its educational, it's fun, we save money and it's effective. Oh, don't misunderstand. I didn't say you "couldn't" make your own. If you want to, go for it. 
But I don't see how anyone could improve on Imperial lube. |
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Walgreens wont have the liquid lanolin. Have heard some health food stores MAY have it. There are stores online and auction sites that sell it as well. If you cant find 99% at walgreens, check for ISOHeet in the automotive section. Its the same thing.
MSDS for ISO Heet |
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perfect. just what I was looking for. I'll swing by Walgreens and look for the lanolin and 99% alcohol. I wish you luck finding 99% iso alc locally. I just called Walgreens, CVS, and a home medical supply shop. It was a no go. My Walgreens called their supplier and couldn't order it anymore. CVS was less than helpful. The home medical supply shop could order it, but they wanted over $14 per bottle! I didn't try the Walmart pharmacy. I just ordered hopefully a lifetime supply (9 bottles) from this place. It worked out to be $3.52 per bottle including shipping. Can't beat that. 100% pure liquid lanolin approx $7.22 per bottle including shipping. I read that the liquid lanolin is better than the paste products. Supposedly the paste products need to be heated up & re-mixed if it sits around. Supposedly the liquid lanolin remains in suspension and doesn't need to be re-mixed. I couldn't find the liquid lanolin locally so I just ordered 4 bottles online and got it over with. |
| I was going to try the DIY case lube but I couldn't find any lanolin so I went to Walmart and bought their version of Pam for $2, best damn $2 I ever spent! A little and I mean I little goes a long damn way. I won't ever buy or use any thing else! You should try it... |
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Oh, don't misunderstand. I didn't say you "couldn't" make your own. If you want to, go for it.
But I don't see how anyone could improve on Imperial lube. The "Case Lube for Cheap Bastards" (AKA Bootleg Case Lube, Lanolin/ISO) is better than imperial for high volume reloading IME. You don't have to touch each case, and you don't have to lube the inside of the case necks seperately. You simply put a hundred to or so cases in a small cardboard box, spritz a couple sprays onto the case bodies and aim into the upwardly pointed case necks. Shake the box a few times to get some other case necks pointed up and spritz a couple more times. Shake to coat. Let dry. Size. I just don't see any possible way Imperial can be this easy when you have to lube each case individually? I can lube 100 cases in <20 secs with spray lube. Quoted:
100% pure liquid lanolin approx $7.22 per bottle including shipping. I read that the liquid lanolin is better than the paste products. Supposedly the paste products need to be heated up & re-mixed if it sits around. Supposedly the liquid lanolin remains in suspension and doesn't need to be re-mixed. I couldn't find the liquid lanolin locally so I just ordered 4 bottles online and got it over with. I find that a little liquid lanolin will fall out of suspension somewhat. I used 90% instead of 99% ISO. I was told this will make it harder to keep lanolin in suspension, and 99%ISO is better. Either way it is not a huge deal. Shake the bottle for 3 or 4 secs before you spray and you are GTG. |
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I have been using a product called "Fluid Film" for years. We use it as a lube in our manufacturing facility for the metal on metal parts. Stuff works great and is all natural, and not like lanolin is expensive, but this stuff is 1/4 the price. If you get 3 or 4 people to go in for a gallon, you have enough to last 3 lifetimes!
Just google Fluid Film and you will find it. Places like Grainger carry it. Found the link http://www.fluid-film.com/company.html Edit: I forgot... I will also take a very small amount, like dip a q-tip in it and put it on the exposed/unpainted portions of my press. My press is in the garage and not climate controlled. It REALLY prevents rust! |
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Quoted:
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Oh, don't misunderstand. I didn't say you "couldn't" make your own. If you want to, go for it.
But I don't see how anyone could improve on Imperial lube. The "Case Lube for Cheap Bastards" (AKA Bootleg Case Lube, Lanolin/ISO) is better than imperial for high volume reloading IME. You don't have to touch each case, and you don't have to lube the inside of the case necks seperately. You simply put a hundred to or so cases in a small cardboard box, spritz a couple sprays onto the case bodies and aim into the upwardly pointed case necks. Shake the box a few times to get some other case necks pointed up and spritz a couple more times. Shake to coat. Let dry. Size. I just don't see any possible way Imperial can be this easy when you have to lube each case individually? I can lube 100 cases in <20 secs with spray lube. Quoted:
100% pure liquid lanolin approx $7.22 per bottle including shipping. I read that the liquid lanolin is better than the paste products. Supposedly the paste products need to be heated up & re-mixed if it sits around. Supposedly the liquid lanolin remains in suspension and doesn't need to be re-mixed. I couldn't find the liquid lanolin locally so I just ordered 4 bottles online and got it over with. I find that a little liquid lanolin will fall out of suspension somewhat. I used 90% instead of 99% ISO. I was told this will make it harder to keep lanolin in suspension, and 99%ISO is better. Either way it is not a huge deal. Shake the bottle for 3 or 4 secs before you spray and you are GTG. I use the 99% alcohol and mix right at a 10:1 ratio. It stays in suspension all the time, never had it settle out even after a month or so of just setting there.... |
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Don't discount Johnson's Paste wax. This is the old-fashioned furniture wax. Yes, you can apply it with a sprayer, dilute 1 tablespoon in 4 ounces of paint thinner, then strain through a coffee filter. Spray and let dry, then size. Because it dries, it cannot spoil powder or primers. Yes, it is a solid lubricant but like a grease, it flows under pressure. The real value is you are far less likely to drop cases when manually processing. |
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Quoted: Don't discount Johnson's Paste wax. This is the old-fashioned furniture wax. Yes, you can apply it with a sprayer, dilute 1 tablespoon in 4 ounces of paint thinner, then strain through a coffee filter. Spray and let dry, then size. Because it dries, it cannot spoil powder or primers. Yes, it is a solid lubricant but like a grease, it flows under pressure. The real value is you are far less likely to drop cases when manually processing.  I use it on the inside of my powder measures, never thought of it as a case lube. Always learn something from your posts. For the new guys, Keith_J is one of the smartest if not the smartest guy on Arfcom. |
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I honestly do not understand why someone would use an "alternative case lube" when excellent case lube is available. Get some Imperial Sizing Die Wax from nearly any supplier. A small supply will last many years. It is excellent. because my DILLON XL650 can process 1000 an hour with Dillon spray lube, or this home-brew stuff.... http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/305174_Case_Lube_for_cheap_bastards.html ..but not with slow poke Imperial 
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