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300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 80 of 82)
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: I will but l believe lm using the same ones that are used for 222/555 Have the correct shellplate? Again same a 223. You have something basically wrong with your press set up. Shellplate nut didn't come loose did it? Forgot to tighten the Allen lock screw? |
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Originally Posted By WildBoar: Which jig to cut 556 to 300. Squirrel Daddy or Zep Bonus question. Cut then size? Or Size then cut.I have seen vids of folks doing either Having wayyy to much fun with my Ruger American Ranch with a YHM R2 on it. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: I made a plinking sub round with the berry plated 220, using cfeblk 12.2grains. Yesterday I picked up a box of Hornady 125 fmj, CHEAP.. Lets see if I can make a plinking super round out of it. Hate to use vmax just for paper. I'm also at 12.2 of CFE BLK, with the 220 grain Berry's. It cycles my 8.5" and 9" ARs with a Harvester Evo silencer, and even cycles with my Huxwrx 762 Flow Ti, as well. Commercial subs don't cycle with the Flow, even with an adjustable gas block cranked wide open. I don't remember my exact velocity, but I think it was around 1020 fps. |
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Anybody ever heard of Hornady making 225gr .308 sub-x bullets? I'm guessing overruns from a special order? If they perform somewhat crappy like the normaI sub-x, I figure at $.28 ea they're still a good deal even for plinkers. I can find absolutely no chatter about them yet, so let's keep it here? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1029130259?pid=380527 |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Anybody ever heard of Hornady making 225gr .308 sub-x bullets? I'm guessing overruns from a special order? If they perform somewhat crappy like the normaI sub-x, I figure at $.28 ea they're still a good deal even for plinkers. I can find absolutely no chatter about them yet, so let's keep it here? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1029130259?pid=380527 There you go, costing me more money. The way these seconds work, they’ll likely be fantastic. But not available again once they’re gone. |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Anybody ever heard of Hornady making 225gr .308 sub-x bullets? I'm guessing overruns from a special order? If they perform somewhat crappy like the normaI sub-x, I figure at $.28 ea they're still a good deal even for plinkers. I can find absolutely no chatter about them yet, so let's keep it here? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1029130259?pid=380527 I just finished off my last box of Berrys 220s. Perfect timing. ORdered more than I probably should have but eh. I love shooting subs and am a sucker for a deal. they also have 195 grains for 25 bucks |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'm also at 12.2 of CFE BLK, with the 220 grain Berry's. It cycles my 8.5" and 9" ARs with a Harvester Evo silencer, and even cycles with my Huxwrx 762 Flow Ti, as well. Commercial subs don't cycle with the Flow, even with an adjustable gas block cranked wide open. I don't remember my exact velocity, but I think it was around 1020 fps. With my 8.5" suppressed Im getting 1053 fps. Cycles 100%. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Yes, they would be the same. Have the correct shellplate? Again same a 223. You have something basically wrong with your press set up. Shellplate nut didn't come loose did it? Forgot to tighten the Allen lock screw? YEah all those things are good. I have double checked them. I am going to move forward with the lyman M die to expand the neck. Thanks anyway. |
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Originally Posted By WildBoar: Which jig to cut 556 to 300. Squirrel Daddy or Zep Bonus question. Cut then size? Or Size then cut.I have seen vids of folks doing either Having wayyy to much fun with my Ruger American Ranch with a YHM R2 on it. I cut down my 556 cases with HF chopsaw and black jig with ball bearing lock (don't remember the name-got it on the EE years ago), then chamfer/debur cut end on lyman case prep express so re-sizing die doesn't get scratched, the lube and resize, then wet tumble, then trim. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: I cut down my 556 cases with HF chopsaw and black jig with ball bearing lock (don't remember the name-got it on the EE years ago), then chamfer/debur cut end on lyman case prep express so re-sizing die doesn't get scratched, the lube and resize, then wet tumble, then trim. I think thats the Zep one. Was it hard to mount to the chop saw? |
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Originally Posted By wvfarrier: I sighted in the Rem 700 Tac in 300blk today. The kids are going to use it next week for deer firearm season 200 grain Maker Rex with H110 at 1025fps. Looking forward to their stories and photos! |
Then President Biden added “The only garbage I see floating out there is [TRUMP] supporters.
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Anybody ever heard of Hornady making 225gr .308 sub-x bullets? I'm guessing overruns from a special order? If they perform somewhat crappy like the normaI sub-x, I figure at $.28 ea they're still a good deal even for plinkers. I can find absolutely no chatter about them yet, so let's keep it here? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1029130259?pid=380527 They’re not exactly like the other Hornady Sub-X bullets I’ve got. Tip looks different, no crimp groove, not scored at the tip to cause fragmentation. I’ll hopefully get to try some out tomorrow and see how they shoot. After that I’ll need to save up some milk jugs to shoot them into to see how well they mushroom. Should be fun. Here’s what the Midway 225 bullet looks like next to a 170 Sub-X. 
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Originally Posted By GlockWrench: Unless its an optical delusion, I see a slight score in the jacket of the 225gr projectile. Remember these are Blems, they very well could have missed a step or two in the mfg. process. I'm going to say it's a scratch, forming mark, or trick of the light in the photo. After looking at several of them, I see no evidence of intentional scoring on the jackets. |
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They seem to want to shoot. I bought a pound of CFE-BLK a couple years ago and never got around to messing with it. So last night I loaded 11.5, 11.8, and 12.1 gr. loads with both these Midway 2nds and some SMK for comparison. I was shooting through a 16" Noveske barrel with 1:8 twist. Scope is a Millett 1-4x. At 50 yards I had some groups from 1.2" to 1.9". Things tightened up when I screwed a Liberty Cosmic on there, with the best groups at 0.620" and 0.615". I had a couple go supersonic with the 12.1 gr. load. The other issue is I get a pretty good POI shift switching between loud and suppressed. Maybe 6" shift at 50 yards. Maybe one of these years I'll have enough suppressors that I can have a dedicated can for every barrel. Until then I'll just have to figure things out. I need to load some more and see how they shoot in my shorter barrels. And maybe I'll order some more, while Midway still has them. 
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: They’re not exactly like the other Hornady Sub-X bullets I’ve got. Tip looks different, no crimp groove, not scored at the tip to cause fragmentation. I’ll hopefully get to try some out tomorrow and see how they shoot. After that I’ll need to save up some milk jugs to shoot them into to see how well they mushroom. Should be fun. Here’s what the Midway 225 bullet looks like next to a 170 Sub-X. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/55694/IMG_6031-3663098.jpg They’re probably not Sub-X. The Midway listing shows a manufacturer number of 30904SV. Hornady’s 30904 is a 225 grain ELD Match. |
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: Yes, that’s the actual bullet from the Midway link. Thanks for posting, I haven't gotten mine yet. Yeah, not what I was expecting and they don't look like the Pic on Midway, a little deceiving. What weight is that sample sub-x? My 190s are boat tailed and look just like the Midway pic. I'll be running H110 and I'll post results. |
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I decided I need another rifle round to load for and have a M7 .300 AAC inbound. Any brands of brass better than others? Planning on using Maker 200 grain/H110/210M and not sure on brass. I may just buy a case of Barnes 110's and use that for my initial brass supply. ETA: should I get H110 or H CFE for powder for subsonic loads? |
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Originally Posted By FZJ80: I decided I need another rifle round to load for and have a M7 .300 AAC inbound. Any brands of brass better than others? Planning on using Maker 200 grain/H110/210M and not sure on brass. I may just buy a case of Barnes 110's and use that for my initial brass supply. For subs, I don't worry too much and use whatever is cheap. For supers I do prefer converted LC if I'm running hotter loads. H110 is my favorite powder for subs and the hot 110gr loads, but it doesn't produce enough gas for some setups. |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Thanks for posting, I haven't gotten mine yet. Yeah, not what I was expecting and they don't look like the Pic on Midway, a little deceiving. What weight is that sample sub-x? My 190s are boat tailed and look just like the Midway pic. I'll be running H110 and I'll post results. The one in my photo is 170 gr. I had bought a few boxes of those when the 190s were sold out everywhere. |
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: They’re not exactly like the other Hornady Sub-X bullets I’ve got. Tip looks different, no crimp groove, not scored at the tip to cause fragmentation. I’ll hopefully get to try some out tomorrow and see how they shoot. After that I’ll need to save up some milk jugs to shoot them into to see how well they mushroom. Should be fun. Here’s what the Midway 225 bullet looks like next to a 170 Sub-X. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/55694/IMG_6031-3663098.jpg Mine finally made it and they all look just like your photo. These have to be ELDs with the tip melted(?) Off. It looks like I'll have to seat them fairly short 2.10" or so, to keep them off the lands. That should leave enough room for 10ish grains of H110. |
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Now, I'm going to enjoy shooting my 300 BO guns finally! I'm back to the bench after some time to continue with the 300 BO. I have a new 300AAC Dillon die set in hand and consequently the most expensive set I have ever purchased at nearly $300 delivered from Dillon (backordered). I suppose the price for this set has come down now. My press the blue Dillon 550 my issue was the LEE 300BO Dies (length) dimension was not allowing for a proper FL sizing. I bottomed out on the shell plate with these dies and needed to cam over some (was not consistent) with no real solution for this other than trimming the die length itself. I chose to order the blue dies. The issue case not fitting my Sheriden gauge should be fixed now. I'm interested in seeing the results with the new Dillon die set. Should I use the Dillon crimp or stay with the LEE factory crimp die? With the LEE dies I ran over 50 test rounds; that and they did fit my Wilson case gauge, chambered and extracted in my AR gun. I am exclusively working up subsonic loads for the Berry's 220gr Spire Point since I have over 2k bullets. My last time at the bench I had worked up IMR 4227 10.1gr, COL 2.25" mixed commercial brass. Results: action cycling in a 9" AAC barrel, avg. velocity 1030 ft./sec. & had really good accuracy at 50 yards less than a inch, however nothing really to note on quietness. This wasn't a quiet load for use with a SiCo Omega suppressor. I'm going to favor the accuracy for this load in my 9" AR and revisit for a sub loading that is quiet. N120 or N110? I'm now going to work up a quiet load my bolt action Ruger Ranch 300AAC I had sitting in my safe for a long time. Any recommendation here? I'm going to set my dies up for use later today and check the cases with a Sheriden cut away gauge. Any considerations for these bullets? I have 2 pounds of CFE BLK powder I'll be getting too soon. Any CFE BLK recommendations for the Berry's 220gr in 9" AR or Bolt Ruger Ranch? |
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1) 300 Blackout 2) Case manufacturer - Mixed converted commercial & Nato cases 3) Case length - 1.368" 4) Bullet manufacturer - NOE mold 5) Bullet weight and type - 230 cast lead Hi-Tek coated 6) Powder type - IMR 4227 7) Powder charge weight - 9.7 8) OAL - 2.150" 9) Primer - Wolf SR 10) Firearm tested in - AR15 w/ Delta Company Arms 9” SS barrel 11) Chrono data (Avg, ES, SD) - Average 1043 FPS |
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Originally Posted By Bishop3: Now, I'm going to enjoy shooting my 300 BO guns finally! I'm back to the bench after some time to continue with the 300 BO. I have a new 300AAC Dillon die set in hand and consequently the most expensive set I have ever purchased at nearly $300 delivered from Dillon (backordered). I suppose the price for this set has come down now. My press the blue Dillon 550 my issue was the LEE 300BO Dies (length) dimension was not allowing for a proper FL sizing. I bottomed out on the shell plate with these dies and needed to cam over some (was not consistent) with no real solution for this other than trimming the die length itself. I chose to order the blue dies. The issue case not fitting my Sheriden gauge should be fixed now. I'm interested in seeing the results with the new Dillon die set. Should I use the Dillon crimp or stay with the LEE factory crimp die? With the LEE dies I ran over 50 test rounds; that and they did fit my Wilson case gauge, chambered and extracted in my AR gun. I am exclusively working up subsonic loads for the Berry's 220gr Spire Point since I have over 2k bullets. My last time at the bench I had worked up IMR 4227 10.1gr, COL 2.25" mixed commercial brass. Results: action cycling in a 9" AAC barrel, avg. velocity 1030 ft./sec. & had really good accuracy at 50 yards less than a inch, however nothing really to note on quietness. This wasn't a quiet load for use with a SiCo Omega suppressor. I'm going to favor the accuracy for this load in my 9" AR and revisit for a sub loading that is quiet. N120 or N110? I'm now going to work up a quiet load my bolt action Ruger Ranch 300AAC I had sitting in my safe for a long time. Any recommendation here? I'm going to set my dies up for use later today and check the cases with a Sheriden cut away gauge. Any considerations for these bullets? I have 2 pounds of CFE BLK powder I'll be getting too soon. Any CFE BLK recommendations for the Berry's 220gr in 9" AR or Bolt Ruger Ranch? I'm not familiar with the Dillon dies you have. 2 die set I'm guessing. Me, I always seat bullets and crimp in separate dies, all calibers. I crimp with a Lee FCD. I use a Hornady die set (2 die set) that I added a Lyman M die for expanding (cast PC bullets) and the FCD for crimping. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I'm not familiar with the Dillon dies you have. 2 die set I'm guessing. Me, I always seat bullets and crimp in separate dies, all calibers. I crimp with a Lee FCD. I use a Hornady die set (2 die set) that I added a Lyman M die for expanding (cast PC bullets) and the FCD for crimping. I started using the LEE set w/ FCD in a Dillon 550 progressive press. The LEE dies did not like the press, and I couldn't get a true FL resize using the LEE dies. I'm now using a Dillon 3 die set and will set these up this evening. I was only wondering about the crimp. How much difference it will make with velocities/ accuracy, If I should continue using it or the Dillon taper crimp? Following up on my original thread: 300 Blackout - Subsonic Load/Data Help Tips I know that it has been awhile since then  .One issue I'm having with the IMR 4227 is that it leaks from my Dillon powder drop every powder drop it seems. |
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Originally Posted By Bishop3: I started using the LEE set w/ FCD in a Dillon 550 progressive press. The LEE dies did not like the press, and I couldn't get a true FL resize using the LEE dies. I'm now using a Dillon 3 die set and will set these up this evening. I was only wondering about the crimp. How much difference it will make with velocities/ accuracy, If I should continue using it or the Dillon taper crimp? Following up on my original thread: 300 Blackout - Subsonic Load/Data Help Tips I know that it has been awhile since then .One issue I'm having with the IMR 4227 is that it leaks from my Dillon powder drop every powder drop it seems. I started loading 300 blk with Lee dies as they were the only dies available. This was shortly after 300 blk came out, and during one of the obozo shortages. They worked fine on my Rockchucker, sizing die included. As soon as Hornady had 300 blk dies, I upgraded and added the M die and kept using the FCD. Last time I loaded 300 blk it was on a 1050, using the dies described above. I use the Dillon taper crimp in other calibers with complete satisfaction. So use whatever you want. Or try both and see what shoots the best. Note, if you want an M die make sure it is the shortest 30 cal (3 sizes available). We used to have to buy the 30 Carbine one as it was the short length. But I believe the labeling has been updated to 30 Carbine/300 blk label. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: All I have ever used in 300 blk is the Lee FCD to crimp. I started loading 300 blk with Lee dies as they were the only dies available. This was shortly after 300 blk came out, and during one of the obozo shortages. They worked fine on my Rockchucker, sizing die included. As soon as Hornady had 300 blk dies, I upgraded and added the M die and kept using the FCD. Last time I loaded 300 blk it was on a 1050, using the dies described above. I use the Dillon taper crimp in other calibers with complete satisfaction. So use whatever you want. Or try both and see what shoots the best. Note, if you want an M die make sure it is the shortest 30 cal (3 sizes available). We used to have to buy the 30 Carbine one as it was the short length. But I believe the labeling has been updated to 30 Carbine/300 blk label. Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Bishop3: I started using the LEE set w/ FCD in a Dillon 550 progressive press. The LEE dies did not like the press, and I couldn't get a true FL resize using the LEE dies. I'm now using a Dillon 3 die set and will set these up this evening. I was only wondering about the crimp. How much difference it will make with velocities/ accuracy, If I should continue using it or the Dillon taper crimp? Following up on my original thread: 300 Blackout - Subsonic Load/Data Help Tips I know that it has been awhile since then .One issue I'm having with the IMR 4227 is that it leaks from my Dillon powder drop every powder drop it seems. I started loading 300 blk with Lee dies as they were the only dies available. This was shortly after 300 blk came out, and during one of the obozo shortages. They worked fine on my Rockchucker, sizing die included. As soon as Hornady had 300 blk dies, I upgraded and added the M die and kept using the FCD. Last time I loaded 300 blk it was on a 1050, using the dies described above. I use the Dillon taper crimp in other calibers with complete satisfaction. So use whatever you want. Or try both and see what shoots the best. Note, if you want an M die make sure it is the shortest 30 cal (3 sizes available). We used to have to buy the 30 Carbine one as it was the short length. But I believe the labeling has been updated to 30 Carbine/300 blk label. Thanks. Since I'm loading Berry's 220gr plates no cannelure, I'm going back to the Lee FCD, not the taper die that came with my Dillon set. I don't want any bullet set back. I'm going to load a test string w/ IMR 4227 10.1 gr I've had good accuracy results with last outing. Then load a ladder with CFE BLK. My only issue with the IMR 4227 powder is that it spills/ leaks past (trickles a little) using my Dillon power drop. Maybe CFE BLK won't leak past my drops. Eta: setting the FCD, screw it down until it contacts case, then 1/2 - 1 turn down? Are there any issues i should be concerned with 2.25" cartridge overall length with this bullet? |
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Originally Posted By Bishop3: Thanks. Since I'm loading Berry's 220gr plates no cannelure, I'm going back to the Lee FCD, not the taper die that came with my Dillon set. I don't want any bullet set back. I'm going to load a test string w/ IMR 4227 10.1 gr I've had good accuracy results with last outing. Then load a ladder with CFE BLK. My only issue with the IMR 4227 powder is that it spills/ leaks past (trickles a little) using my Dillon power drop. Maybe CFE BLK won't leak past my drops. Eta: setting the FCD, screw it down until it contacts case, then 1/2 - 1 turn down? Are there any issues i should be concerned with 2.25" cartridge overall length with this bullet? Proper adjustment of the collet type (rifle) FCD; Look down at the top of the die out of the press. Note the 4 slots in the collet. That gap is die at rest. Important. Now place round to be crimped in press run round all the way up in press. Now is the time to place a real lock nut on the FCD. Get rid of that nut and O ring garbage. New FCD's come with a locknut. Run down FCD until you can feel the bullet touch the collet. Lower round, tighten FCD about 1 turn. Raise round all the way up as you watch the 4 gaps in the collet. Adjust FCD until the gap closed about 1/3 of the way. That is a light crimp. Never over crimp a plated bullet unless you want keyholing. leading, and poor accuracy. None of the blindly "rotate 1/2 to 1 turn" stuff. Watch the collet gap as round is crimped. With the heaver bullets in 300 blk 180 grs and up, adjust OAL to .001 below mag length. So yes 2.250 OAL. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: When you adjust the FCD, look down on the collet. Proper adjustment of the collet type (rifle) FCD; Look down at the top of the die out of the press. Note the 4 slots in the collet. That gap is die at rest. Important. Now place round to be crimped in press run round all the way up in press. Now is the time to place a real lock nut on the FCD. Get rid of that nut and O ring garbage. New FCD's come with a locknut. Run down FCD until you can feel the bullet touch the collet. Lower round, tighten FCD about 1 turn. Raise round all the way up as you watch the 4 gaps in the collet. Adjust FCD until the gap closed about 1/3 of the way. That is a light crimp. Never over crimp a plated bullet unless you want keyholing. leading, and poor accuracy. None of the blindly "rotate 1/2 to 1 turn" stuff. Watch the collet gap as round is crimped. With the heaver bullets in 300 blk 180 grs and up, adjust OAL to .001 below mag length. So yes 2.250 OAL. Thanks, and now I remember since the last time I had asked you. So now I have it set again up properly. Using the FCD I can ever so slightly see the crimp mark around case mouth. I've backed off some on the case flare so it's just barely showing and still allows for seating. Tomorrow I'll chronograph and check accuracy. |
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Originally Posted By Bishop3: Thanks, and now I remember since the last time I had asked you. So now I have it set again up properly. Using the FCD I can ever so slightly see the crimp mark around case mouth. I've backed off some on the case flare so it's just barely showing and still allows for seating. Tomorrow I'll chronograph and check accuracy. Which means the collet gap is closing too much. Raise FCD up in press and adjust again. |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Mine finally made it and they all look just like your photo. These have to be ELDs with the tip melted(?) Off. It looks like I'll have to seat them fairly short 2.10" or so, to keep them off the lands. That should leave enough room for 10ish grains of H110. Any updates? I’m holding off until I see results from y’all’s. |
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Originally Posted By country_boy87: Any updates? I’m holding off until I see results from y’all’s. Sorry, not yet, it's been a rough week. We got a foot of wet snow and power was out for 2 days and my tractor hydraulics went down. Soon I hope. Considering they're about the same price as Berry's, I figure it's still a good deal even if just for plinkers. |
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I just fired 5 rounds loaded with 200 Grain Maker Rex, my ancient Chrony decided to die, so I have a Garmin on the way. No idea what my FPS was, but no pressure signs, at least looking at case/primer. Question for anyone loading these bullets, what is your COAL? I decided on 2.150". 9.2 grains of H110, Norma brass, Federal 205M's. Loading for a Remington Model 7, one of the AAC rifles from years ago. Not trying to get too fancy, just looking for 1050 fps, and decent accuracy for our late doe season coming up. |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: Anybody ever heard of Hornady making 225gr .308 sub-x bullets? I'm guessing overruns from a special order? If they perform somewhat crappy like the normaI sub-x, I figure at $.28 ea they're still a good deal even for plinkers. I can find absolutely no chatter about them yet, so let's keep it here? https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1029130259?pid=380527 So I finally saved up enough milk jugs to do some expansion testing on the Midway Mystery bullets. (Pro tip: gallon jugs of chocolate milk get emptied out more quickly than regular white milk). The short version is that these are not quite premium, bonded bullets. I had 7 one-gallon milk jugs full of water lined up and shot through them. I got penetration through all of them but found bullet fragments either on the table or in one of the jugs. Maybe not the best approach, but I was also working on a new load for them with the very small amount of Viht N110 that I had left in a bottle. They ended up a bit faster than I was hoping for, with the milk jug shot coming in at 1225 fps. The bullet shows some minimal expansion, with complete separation from the jacket. The face of the lead core measured .435" at the widest point. I suppose I should go buy some more chocolate milk and compare to the 190 gr. Sub-X bullets. 
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| There I was thinking I had my loads all figured out. Turns out I received some brass where the neck was a little thick / out for spec. I found it after having to mortar a few rounds out of the gun. Now I'm going back through the 1000 rounds I loaded to hunt down these bad pieces of brass. Thankfully it is only about 5% at this point. |
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: So I finally saved up enough milk jugs to do some expansion testing on the Midway Mystery bullets. (Pro tip: gallon jugs of chocolate milk get emptied out more quickly than regular white milk). The short version is that these are not quite premium, bonded bullets. I had 7 one-gallon milk jugs full of water lined up and shot through them. I got penetration through all of them but found bullet fragments either on the table or in one of the jugs. Maybe not the best approach, but I was also working on a new load for them with the very small amount of Viht N110 that I had left in a bottle. They ended up a bit faster than I was hoping for, with the milk jug shot coming in at 1225 fps. The bullet shows some minimal expansion, with complete separation from the jacket. The face of the lead core measured .435" at the widest point. I suppose I should go buy some more chocolate milk and compare to the 190 gr. Sub-X bullets. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/55694/IMG_6091-3679995.jpg Thanks again for the info, that's about what I was expecting. I finally got a chance to work up a load and shoot a couple groups with these. I ended up at 8.4gr of H110 in primed AAC pulled brass and a COL of 2.09 giving me a 1055 avg velocity and a 30 fps ES. 5 shot groups were consistantly 2.5 to 3 MOA @ 100yrds. These were shot in a 12.5" AAC 1/8 barrel with SiCo Omega and Eotech with 3x. I did see a couple that were not quite stable, so I'd say the 1 in 8 barrel is on the ragged edge of stabilization. |
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Originally Posted By Dvalin_MT: These were shot in a 12.5" AAC 1/8 barrel with SiCo Omega and Eotech with 3x. I did see a couple that were not quite stable, so I'd say the 1 in 8 barrel is on the ragged edge of stabilization. Try shooting them without the can. I don't think the barrel twist is the issue. Those bullets are essentially the same length as a 220 gr. SMK, which does great in all of my 1:8 barrels. I have been playing with a bolt-action BCA upper with a 7.5" 1:8 barrel. It seems to shoot these bullets fine without a can, but I see oblong bullet holes when shooting it suppressed. The first can I tried was a Bowers VERS-9S, which has seen way too much full-auto .22LR. It's crudded up, but not so much as to cause a rub as a 9mm bullet passes by, let alone a .30 cal. So after I saw those results, I tried it with a Bowers CAC-45, which is not filled with rimfire buildup. And there's no way I would be getting baffle rubs through the massive .45 can. But I got the same instable bullet strikes. I haven't tried that upper with any other cans yet. I'm still trying to decide if that upper is worth messing with. But shooting these bullets in two other barrels I get good results. One is a 16" Noveske 1:8 with a Liberty Cosmic. I just got a 0.830" group at 50 yds. with one load, and another load at 1.475". So pretty similar MOA to what you were getting at 100 yds. |
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Originally Posted By GarrettJ: Try shooting them without the can. I don't think the barrel twist is the issue. Those bullets are essentially the same length as a 220 gr. SMK, which does great in all of my 1:8 barrels. I have been playing with a bolt-action BCA upper with a 7.5" 1:8 barrel. It seems to shoot these bullets fine without a can, but I see oblong bullet holes when shooting it suppressed. The first can I tried was a Bowers VERS-9S, which has seen way too much full-auto .22LR. It's crudded up, but not so much as to cause a rub as a 9mm bullet passes by, let alone a .30 cal. So after I saw those results, I tried it with a Bowers CAC-45, which is not filled with rimfire buildup. And there's no way I would be getting baffle rubs through the massive .45 can. But I got the same instable bullet strikes. I haven't tried that upper with any other cans yet. I'm still trying to decide if that upper is worth messing with. But shooting these bullets in two other barrels I get good results. One is a 16" Noveske 1:8 with a Liberty Cosmic. I just got a 0.830" group at 50 yds. with one load, and another load at 1.475". So pretty similar MOA to what you were getting at 100 yds. I did shoot the first few without the can to make sure they were stable and I didn't notice any that looked borderline. There were only 2 out of the 30 or so rounds that were questionable. Next time out, I will try a couple groups without a can as well as a couple different suppressors. I've also got shorter 1/7 and 1/5 barrels I'll try them in but I'll probably up the charge a bit. |
300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 80 of 82)
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