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300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 79 of 82)
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Originally Posted By 3one5: Picked up some 1680 today. Just need to find bullets now. Hopefully this powder works out, 1lb is close to 700 rounds worth. RL-7 works as well. I ran out of the CFE powder, so I tried the RL-7 and it works great. Maybe slightly louder than the CFE Black. 220gr Berrys, #41 primer and 10.5-11gr of RL-7 works with my 10 1/2” barrel and Resonator can. I’ve also used 1680 successfully in subs. Again, a bit louder than CFE Black. |
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| I am having some issues with loading 125gr Speer TNT rounds, using H110. I am having inconsistent powder throws on my D550, most likely due to how fine the powder is. A couple of the books also list A1680 as well as CFE BLK for 125gr bullets. I have both (typically use the CFE BLK for subsonic loads). Has anyone used either of these for 125gr supersonic loads? I am really disliking H110. When loading my subs, the CFE BLK meters without issue. I have also seen V110 listed as well. Any feedback on powder would be great! |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: H-110 being a ball powder should measure exact thru a Dillon powder measure. That's without any tuning. Are you settling the powder? Do you mean tapping the side of the hopper? If so yet I've been doing that. I was considering putting a small brass weight on top of the powder in the hopper. Also took it apart and cleaned up (when I bought my different power feeders I polished them nice inside as well). Has been working well for what I've been running through it so far - just the H110. I went ahead and ordered some N110 as well - since I read nice things about it. Due to using less per round to accomplish the same thing, money wise it works out in the end, especially if it meters without issue. |
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Originally Posted By optoisolator: Do you mean tapping the side of the hopper? If so yet I've been doing that. I was considering putting a small brass weight on top of the powder in the hopper. Also took it apart and cleaned up (when I bought my different power feeders I polished them nice inside as well). Has been working well for what I've been running through it so far - just the H110. I went ahead and ordered some N110 as well - since I read nice things about it. Due to using less per round to accomplish the same thing, money wise it works out in the end, especially if it meters without issue. Originally Posted By dryflash3: If all you use is ball powder, the Dillon PM needs no tuning. It will throw ball powder exact with good technique. With a little polishing, the Dillon PM will throw small grain flake powder (Bullseye) exact with good technique. Large flake powder (Unique, Trail Boss, 700 X, Blue Dot ect) + or - .1 gr. My post on "Good Technique" I saved it as I've typed this out too many times... You want to keep the hopper at least 1/2 full. Start with it full (1/2 inch from the top) and add to it as needed. One thing that has been missed so far is the most important part of what I call "good technique". That is settling the powder. Fill hopper with powder, tap on the side of the hopper with your finger, see how the powder level dropped? That is settling the powder. Now drop 5 charges into the pan to complete the settling, return the powder to the hopper. Measure the powder in the pan and adjust measure as needed. Drop 3 charges to resettle the powder. Drop charge and weigh. Repeat as needed, dropping 3 charges every time you make an adjustment. You should be able to measure ball powder exact. Flake powder like Unique and Trail Boss + or - .1 gr. (the reason folks have issues with these powders is they don't settle the powder). Short cut extruded line H-4198, and IMR-8208 XBR + or - .1 gr. Long extruded like Varget + or - .2 gr. So to review "good technique"; Settle the powder. Settle powder after every adjustment. Same force/speed for every throw. If a kernel of powder gets cut continue with the throw, don't stop. If throw didn't "feel right" return that throw to the hopper and do over. Keep hopper at least 1/2 full. Use a baffle Tune your measure by taking it apart and waxing all the internal parts. I use Minwax brand finishing wax. Waxing the parts makes the PM operate very smoothly and does not effect the powder. I have done this for over 10 years. If you have static issues, try a dryer sheet rubbed at the point of static. If dryer sheet doesn't work, get some powdered graphite and brush on then tap excess off. Graphite is good stuff but it's hard to get off your hands. I store my PM with 2 dryer sheets in the hopper and covered with a clear plastic bag. |
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Attached File It was a good day for 300 Loaded 500 190gr Sub-x’s with 11.7gr 1680, which is 1060fps out of my 9” SBR. Also loaded 500 black tip Vmax with 20.7gr of Lilgun for a good 2250fps out of the same barrel. Nice being able to load and shoot off the back porch for development. |
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Originally Posted By Atropian_Defector: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523616/IMG_6613_jpeg-3431923.JPG It was a good day for 300 Loaded 500 190gr Sub-x’s with 11.7gr 1680, which is 1060fps out of my 9” SBR. Also loaded 500 black tip Vmax with 20.7gr of Lilgun for a good 2550fps out of the same barrel. Nice being able to load and shoot off the back porch for development. I tend to run 21.2gr LilGun with 110gr Vmax, and get an average MV between 2150 and 2200 fps (typically around 2175 fps) out of a 9" suppressed barrel. I think your reference to 2550 fps out of a 9" barrel is a mistake. |
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Originally Posted By jwlaxton: I tend to run 21.2gr LilGun with 110gr Vmax, and get an average MV between 2150 and 2200 fps (typically around 2175 fps) out of a 9" suppressed barrel. I think you made a mistake referencing 2550 fps out of a 9" barrel. Yeah I fat fingered my keyboard. I’m getting 2225-2250 with my barrel. I run a decent crimp on them too. |
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: Seems this die is always out of stock when I go to order something else.... Originally Posted By RWEIII: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Use the 30 Carbine M die for 300 blk. Seems this die is always out of stock when I go to order something else.... |
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: Excuse my M Die ignorance but looking at my 5.56 M Die, it seems to be just a mandrel. Could we not use any .308 cal M Die and just screw it down to the correct height? Die body/ mandrel length ratio is off for the other .308 M dies. The die will bottom out on the shell holder without enough adjustment to get the mandrel where it is supposed to be. I'm pretty sure there are three different lengths, carbine, regular (.308 win), and long (.3006) |
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Originally Posted By TribunusSanGeorgii: Die body/ mandrel length ratio is off for the other .308 M dies. The die will bottom out on the shell holder without enough adjustment to get the mandrel where it is supposed to be. I'm pretty sure there are three different lengths, carbine, regular (.308 win), and long (.3006) The 30 Carbine M die is the correct length. |
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| Yes, after my post (3 up) I ventured off to the Lyman site and learned a little regarding the OAL of the dies and came up with the same. Also confirmed the only .30's they make in M Die are 30M1, 308, 30-06. My edit should have been more clear. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By RWEIII: Yes, after my post (3 up) I ventured off to the Lyman site and learned a little regarding the OAL of the dies and came up with the same. Also confirmed the only .30's they make in M Die are 30M1, 308, 30-06. My edit should have been more clear. Thanks! |
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Looking to start reloading 300 and at this point I don't really have the time to invest in forming my own cases, probably will one day, but at this point I've found a decent price on Starline brass. I understand it has reduced capacity but I only intend on reloading subs, likely Everglades 200's and Hornady 190's. That shouldn't be an issue with Starline brass, correct? I'm also going to try and find one of these powders locally to try out before I commit to a big jug, N120, IMR 4227, or Shooters World Blackout just to insure it functions in my setup. |
| For subs, heavy bullets like 190-220 I would recommend N120 and 1680. Just get the big jug and you will be good for a VERY long time - unless you become a 300blk Sub NUTT |
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There is no reason whatsoever to form cases from 5.56 anymore. 300BLK brass is widely available and inexpensive. Form cases only if you enjoy forming cases. I have some 300 in Starline. Very high quality. 100% reliable STARLINE with subs and supers. |
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
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1680 and 4227 and Lil Gun all work great for subs. I use this for subs. It works great. Figure some thought above my pay grade went into the formula. Attached File |
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
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For supers with 110-125 bullets, pour the case full of H-110 so the base of the bullet kisses the powder when the bullet is fully seated. This will be a hot load, and very hard on brass. One-and-done on that brass. Weight will be around 20 grains. Use a proper primer (i.e. no CCI 400’s or pistol primers). I like 450’s. 41’s and BR’s should be OK too. Avoid compressed charges with ball powder. Compressed Ball will try to push the bullet out of the case in storage, and on recoil in the magazine. Even though 110-125 ammo tends to leave plenty of room in the front of the magazine, I don’t like ammo that changes overall length all on it’s own. Some folks are pushing supers really hard. Extruding brass into the ejector hole on the bolt is going to come around to bite you at some point. Not worth it for an extra 100 fps. So pay attention. Not all brass is the same. The nookoolear load with one batch of brass may behave. Same Hiroshima load in a different batch of brass may be completely unacceptable as far as bent rims, expander primer pockets, and extrusion at the extractor and ejector. |
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
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I have a KALI-KEY bolt assembly I use with my 8.5” AR upper when I want a little more quiet, or I don’t feel like leaving brass in the grass. I guess with suppressed, and super quiet, it’s about firing only one shot and be done. If you need to fire multiple shots, you’re playing at the range, or you’re in so much trouble that it doesn’t even remotely matter whether your powder is a little louder than some theoretical “quietest” or “least gassy” powder. Even the “loudest” suppressed 300BLK subs are silly quiet. |
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin, 1775
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Has anyone loaded the Maker TRex 110 grain SUPERsonic bullets? They do make a 110gr SUBsonic bullet, apparently, while interested in the Super but would like to hear more about either. |
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With Subsonic loads you will want to start a little higher and work your way down. Point is to not have a squib and lodge a bullet in your barrel and then have a kaboom. That would be bad. That is why for Subsonic loads they list a minimum - start higher and work down towards that minimum. Chronographs help. Your load/components/barrel may vary. |
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| Loaded up 6 rounds at Max Load I'll try them out tomorrow(hopefully) in a 16" and 7.5" barrel. I have 20 rounds of factory 190 SubX's to compare to as well. Have a Chrono so I'm good there. I'll need to get another seater die as my 300BO die is putting an impression where it contacts the bullet. |
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Originally Posted By Atropian_Defector: Had to use PTX. I’m decapping/sizing in first stage, and can’t use the M die with case full of powder. Loaded 300ish 147gr pulls with 18gr SWBO, 500 of American Reloading's 125gr with 20gr SWBO, then 600 Berry’s 220gr with 11gr IMR 4227, then ran a batch of 100 STT’s with what was left of the SWBO and switched to Lil-gun for the last few dozen. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523616/IMG_3593_jpeg-3249998.JPG Ordering a pile of 190gr Sub-X’s for the next run. I really like the sub-xl bullets |
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Originally Posted By Huckelberry75: I have a question for the brain trust. I have a 7.5” 5tw bbl and working on getting 190 smk’s and 190 Makers Rex bullets to run. I have a carbine buffer/spring and a Superlative Arms AGB. Even with the AGB all the way open, it will only eject to 5 o’c and not pick up the next cartridge. Not even close the BHO on last round. Any thoughts? I called Makers for some tips and he gave me a load of 9.2gn of H110 at 2.1”coal for the 190gn Rex. They shoot fine and running ~1,024fps but it’s basically a single shot. Not sure what barrel you have but my Faxon 7.5” 5t barrel needed to have the gas port opened up. Super easy to do and it’s running great now. |
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Originally Posted By 3one5: Read the entire thread but I am left wondering what the best powder is to start with. My biggest goal is reliable subs using Sierra 220gr bullets. I don't yet have a can but plan to pickup a Surefire 300 SPS. My setup, which currently didn't cycle a box of Winchester 200gr factory ammo (extracted and ejected brass but short strokes), is as follows. - Faxon 7.5" 1:5T barrel - Aero Precision gas block - Law Tactical Folder - H Buffer - Standard carbine spring I did swap in a standard carbine buffer, which I haven't tested yet, and also have a KAK lightweight carrier extension coming. After going through the thread, I'm thinking I should probably start with either CFE Black or Accurate 1680. Am I going in the right direction? AA1680 or N120 is the way to go. If you have a stubborn gun that doesn’t want to run subs start with 1680. |
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Have a new 14” 300bo CVA scout for a nuisance critter gun. Looking to make some good hollywood quiet 190 subX loads. Might actually beeak into my two canisters of trailboss for this since I dont need them to cycle a gas system. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Atropian_Defector: Have a new 14” 300bo CVA scout for a nuisance critter gun. Looking to make some good hollywood quiet 190 subX loads. Might actually beeak into my two canisters of trailboss for this since I dont need them to cycle a gas system. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523616/IMG_0179_jpeg-3647612.JPG You can try working up to 6.1gr hp-38 / win 231. Was 1076 fps avg out of a 16" bolt gun. No position sensitivity noted, not sure about temp sensitivity |
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Originally Posted By GlockWrench: You can try working up to 6.1gr hp-38 / win 231. Was 1076 fps avg out of a 16" bolt gun. No position sensitivity noted, not sure about temp sensitivity I fell into a few boxes of the 175gr Sub-X's and going to work a load with those I think. |
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I have been having issues with belling the cases for some powder coated 220gr projectiles I have. I currently am trying to use the Dillon Powder funnel C (.30 carbine) which DIllon lists is the one to also use for 300 blackout, but sometimes the case doesn't go into the funnel perfectly and the side of the case mouth gets smashed. I picked up an Armanov 300 blackout powder funnel but it is more like the Dillon 556 funnel where it just drops the powder in and doesn't flare (bell) the case mouth. I have a Lyman 30 carbine M die and also just picked up a Lee universal expanding die. My thinking is I would remove my Hornady 300 blackout/whisper resizing die from station one in my 550, and replace it with either the Lyman or Lee Die. From my understanding, neither of these dies will re-size the case, only bell or flare the case mouth. So I would have to first re-size the case on either my rockchucker with the Hornady sizing die, or use a separate Dillon Toolhead with just the Hornady sizing die in it to first re-size the 300 blackout case, then trim it, then run it in the dillon with the M die or Lee Expander die to flare before it goes to station 2 for powder drop. Does this sound like a good solution and which would be better to use-the Lyman M die or the lee Expander die? I did recently find out about the NOE inserts that would be better to use in the Lee die then the expander inserts that come with it, but the guy is retiring and unless he can find someone to take over his business, they aren't and won't be available anymore. Anyways, I look forward to hearing your suggestions on this. Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: I have been having issues with belling the cases for some powder coated 220gr projectiles I have. I currently am trying to use the Dillon Powder funnel C (.30 carbine) which DIllon lists is the one to also use for 300 blackout, but sometimes the case doesn't go into the funnel perfectly and the side of the case mouth gets smashed. I picked up an Armanov 300 blackout powder funnel but it is more like the Dillon 556 funnel where it just drops the powder in and doesn't flare (bell) the case mouth. I have a Lyman 30 carbine M die and also just picked up a Lee universal expanding die. My thinking is I would remove my Hornady 300 blackout/whisper resizing die from station one in my 550, and replace it with either the Lyman or Lee Die. From my understanding, neither of these dies will re-size the case, only bell or flare the case mouth. So I would have to first re-size the case on either my rockchucker with the Hornady sizing die, or use a separate Dillon Toolhead with just the Hornady sizing die in it to first re-size the 300 blackout case, then trim it, then run it in the dillon with the M die or Lee Expander die to flare before it goes to station 2 for powder drop. Does this sound like a good solution and which would be better to use-the Lyman M die or the lee Expander die? I did recently find out about the NOE inserts that would be better to use in the Lee die then the expander inserts that come with it, but the guy is retiring and unless he can find someone to take over his business, they aren't and won't be available anymore. Anyways, I look forward to hearing your suggestions on this. Thanks! This is what you want, https://www.bobcatarmament.com/powder-funnel-c-30-carbine.html/?srsltid=AfmBOop0IQP3lisqgl53c-IwfI90emPGUj5ff2I9QpbcTvD98ahr7Rk6 |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: What you want to do is replace the Dillon powder funnel with one that expands like a M die. This is what you want, https://www.bobcatarmament.com/powder-funnel-c-30-carbine.html/?srsltid=AfmBOop0IQP3lisqgl53c-IwfI90emPGUj5ff2I9QpbcTvD98ahr7Rk6 I'm pretty sure that's the powder funnel lm already using |
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| No l do but problem is sometimes the case doesn't go into it perfectly square and the side of the case mouth gets smashed in. This is why l am thinking of ditching it and just flaring with the Lyman m die or Lee expander die instead and use the armanov powder funnel instead in the Dillon powder die |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: No l do but problem is sometimes the case doesn't go into it perfectly square and the side of the case mouth gets smashed in. This is why l am thinking of ditching it and just flaring with the Lyman m die or Lee expander die instead and use the armanov powder funnel instead in the Dillon powder die You are using the brass locator buttons on the shellplate right? You should never smash a case mouth anyway. If you follow good reloading practice to stop press handle if anything feels "wrong". Stop find the issue and fix it, then continue. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I'm not following. How is the case not aligned on a 550? You are using the brass locator buttons on the shellplate right? You should never smash a case mouth anyway. If you follow good reloading practice to stop press handle if anything feels "wrong". Stop find the issue and fix it, then continue. I know it sounds strange but l am using the brass locator button and they still don't always go perfectly up and square into that expander funnel and when it happens the side of the case gets partially smashed and some powder spills out. I don't know how else to explain it but it happens so that's why I'm thinking of just flaring with the Lyman 30 carbine M die in station 1 first and using the armanov powder funnel in station 2 over the Dillon one. I will have to resize separately first on my rock chucker. |
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Originally Posted By Mav3rick: I know it sounds strange but l am using the brass locator button and they still don't always go perfectly up and square into that expander funnel and when it happens the side of the case gets partially smashed and some powder spills out. I don't know how else to explain it but it happens so that's why I'm thinking of just flaring with the Lyman 30 carbine M die in station 1 first and using the armanov powder funnel in station 2 over the Dillon one. I will have to resize separately first on my rock chucker. Sounds like the one you are using is too small. |
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300 Blackout Master Thread (Page 79 of 82)
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