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Posted: 8/19/2017 4:24:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: CKyleC]
[#1]
Double tap
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Posted: 8/19/2017 4:26:07 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
I would first convert the cases, THEN worry about loading them. A lot of people seem to do well forming cases with Dillon's sizer and trim die, but make sure you properly expand the necks or you'll have problems. I form my cases the old fashioned way: I chop them to length, anneal them, size them, then trim them. I personally feel that annealing after shortening but before forming gives me more consistent necks. |
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Posted: 8/19/2017 4:56:48 PM EDT
[#3]
To process them, you need the standard dies, and probably either a Lee Universal Expander or a Lyman M Die to bell/expand the mouths. I haven't used the Lee, but the Lyman M die works very well.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 8/22/2017 10:33:31 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Hammer:
I'm getting horrible accuracy from my sub loads, I'm talking 12 moa bad . 
Bullets: NOE 247gr cast from straight wheel weights, powder coated and sized to .309". Cases: Once fired factory brass (not converted). Case prep: • Resized so the shoulder is pushed back .002" from a fire formed case. • Trimmed to 1.355" if needed, all pieces are chamfered and deburred. • Primer pockets are uniformed. • Necks are expanded with a NOE .312" expander ball. Load, seating, crimp: 11gr of H4198 for ~1040 FPS. Bullets are seated to the top driving band and crimped with a Lee FCD just enough to remove any bell left from the expander. I'm using a Ballistic Advantage 8" 1/8 twist pistol gas barrel that slugs to .307" which should be perfect. The bullets make a strange "wizzing" sound when fired but aren't keyholing and there's no leading in the barrel. This has been really frustrating and I'm about ready to call it quits. Does anyone have any ideas as to why I'm this accuracy issue? The whizzing might be the bullets failing. You said they were straight wheel weights. How hot did you smelt them? Maybe you melted a zinc one or two in the batch. It might make them brittle enough to fracture off a piece. Or your powder coating could be coming off causing the whizzing. I don't cast or losd 300 blackout yet, so I am not as knowledgeable as most people on this thread, but I didn't see anything about these being possibilities. |
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Posted: 8/22/2017 12:32:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Unkydon]
[#5]
Try not to push them too fast. I am getting best accuracy with same bullet sized to .310 and pushing 770-800 fps. Out of an 8" barrel.
I cast with Lyman #2 alloy. Lee will custom make a 310 bullet sizing die as it is not a stock item. Try 7.7 gr of 4227. Gas block wide open. I know it's an anemic load. But no leading easy in the gun etc. Pushing 1000 fps out of an 8" barrel is actually getting some high pressures that, in my rifle, were cutting bullet base as it passed gas port. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 8/26/2017 9:53:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: the_naked_prophet]
[#6]
I looked into converting a few thousand of 5.56 brass that I have saved up, but the whole process of annealing just seems like too much time/trouble/effort for me. Especially since, last time I asked about it, everybody said, "Just buy converted/annealed cases by the thousand from the EE."
Is that still a thing? Because I can't find any. Or, more in general, if I wanted to get cases to reload economical blasting ammo, where would I find those? [edit]I am seeing a lot of remanufactured ammo out there, all made from converted cases, but none of those places mention annealing in their description of the ammo. Do they not anneal, or is it just kind of assumed that they do anneal, or what?[/edit] |
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Posted: 8/26/2017 10:58:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#7]
You didn't hear "buy from the EE " from me.
I do my own sizing/case conversions to ensure it's done correctly to my standards. Annealing is pretty easy. Torch, 750 drgree Temiplaq, cordless screwdriver/socket to rotate cases is all that is needed. |
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Posted: 8/26/2017 4:36:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Aside from Photobucket being rude about pictures, HERE it dryflash3's Low Budget Annealing thread. Everything you need to know is here.
TL;DR: using an inexpensive propane torch and a few bits of hardware, along with a precision temperature indicating fluid, it's pretty cheap and easy to anneal your converted cases. I follow dryflash3's process: chop, debur, anneal, form, trim. It works great. I personally feel that annealing before forming produces more consistent case necks. |
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Posted: 8/26/2017 9:58:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter:
Aside from Photobucket being rude about pictures, HERE it dryflash3's Low Budget Annealing thread. Everything you need to know is here. TL;DR: using an inexpensive propane torch and a few bits of hardware, along with a precision temperature indicating fluid, it's pretty cheap and easy to anneal your converted cases. I follow dryflash3's process: chop, debur, anneal, form, trim. It works great. I personally feel that annealing before forming produces more consistent case necks. |
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Posted: 9/1/2017 3:18:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Damn....I knew I wanted to order something else with my last midway order...
More Temiplaq.... Hope to get back into this soon. I'm going to setup my loading equipment in a storage unit and hope for the best. 208 ELD question. I was loading these and using a OAL if 2.250" I picked up a box or Hornady "Black" 208 Amax, as something to get a idea how close I was to that load. I just got the can for it, so now with real velocity numbers, I can fine tune the load. With my load, adding the can didn't add anything to velocity 
So that load is in the low 900's (I was told expect aprox 10%) The Hornady load is advertised at 1020fps muzzle and I'm at 1017 with a 10" barrel w/can 1st thing I did was measure the OAL... 2.200 So.... .050 shorter The Amax and ELD IS the same other than the tip material, correct? Heres my plan and would love some feedback. Cut my load back .2gr and stuff them in .050 deeper. Load 5 Also load 5 @ my loading and stuff them .050 deeper , and check the numbers. Maybe even bump my load up .2gr AND .050" deeper. Had anyone noticed a difference in accuracy with OAL changes with ELD subs? My untuned load without a can was... 208 ELD (m) wolf primers 11.2gr of A1680 2.250" OAL Whos shooting the 208 ELD with a can, and is willing to comment/ share what they may have learned? What did I learn? Can made zero diff in numbers. IN MY SBR WITH MY LOAD!! As always dont do / load anthing you read online. Work up |
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Posted: 9/2/2017 8:44:52 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By mybronco2:
Damn....I knew I wanted to order something else with my last midway order... More Temiplaq.... Hope to get back into this soon. I'm going to setup my loading equipment in a storage unit and hope for the best. 208 ELD question. I was loading these and using a OAL if 2.250" I picked up a box or Hornady "Black" 208 Amax, as something to get a idea how close I was to that load. I just got the can for it, so now with real velocity numbers, I can fine tune the load. With my load, adding the can didn't add anything to velocity
So that load is in the low 900's (I was told expect aprox 10%) The Hornady load is advertised at 1020fps muzzle and I'm at 1017 with a 10" barrel w/can 1st thing I did was measure the OAL... 2.200 So.... .050 shorter The Amax and ELD IS the same other than the tip material, correct? Heres my plan and would love some feedback. Cut my load back .2gr and stuff them in .050 deeper. Load 5 Also load 5 @ my loading and stuff them .050 deeper , and check the numbers. Maybe even bump my load up .2gr AND .050" deeper. Had anyone noticed a difference in accuracy with OAL changes with ELD subs? My untuned load without a can was... 208 ELD (m) wolf primers 11.2gr of A1680 2.250" OAL Whos shooting the 208 ELD with a can, and is willing to comment/ share what they may have learned? What did I learn? Can made zero diff in numbers. IN MY SBR WITH MY LOAD!! As always dont do / load anthing you read online. Work up |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 2:25:11 AM EDT
[#12]
Concerning annealing. Does it matter if I anneal already formed cases that weren't annealed? Or do I need to chop new cases, anneal and then form?
I've been working with some 130gr TSX pulls, originally from Remington Hog Hammer. Working off suggestions from Barnes I worked up some test loads with H110 but I'm getting extreme ED and SDs, like SD of 41fps and ES of 110. Accuracy is abysmal for 50yds, 2in 10rd groups. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 8:03:43 AM EDT
[#13]
You can anneal formed cases, better than nothing.
But I like to anneal after trimming and before forming the neck. |
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Posted: 9/7/2017 8:11:21 AM EDT
[#14]
In short, it doesn't matter whether you case formed first, or not before you anneal.
Preferably anneal before, since forming a case hardened section of the brass is obviously tougher on brass and reloading equipment, potentially introducing metallurgy weakening as well. The reason is that annealing will put the casehardened case (can use the same analogy on the converted brass, due to where the new neck [casehardened brass] was formed) back into the desired state each time you anneal. Theoretically, as long as annealing is done properly, where you are not exceeding the 750 degree-ish mark, you can anneal as many times as you want, because you are bringing back the composition of the brass from a hardened state, into more of a desired state for the job. The job being, more elasticity without degradation or brittleness, to avert catastrophic fail around the shoulder and neck. I can speak for the above referenced thread on the DIY annealing machine. It was a great project to complete. It will make you appreciate the process better. Otherwise, careful and consistent process with socket, etc. will get you pretty good results. |
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Posted: 9/20/2017 3:33:01 PM EDT
[#15]
Looking for load data but have came up empty with trying to find a load for a 300 blackout with .308 147gr FMJBT round. Only powders I do have currently are H335, W760, CFE223, and CFEBLK Thanks for your all’s time.
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Posted: 9/20/2017 8:21:23 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Realtree86:
Looking for load data but have came up empty with trying to find a load for a 300 blackout with .308 147gr FMJBT round. Only powders I do have currently are H335, W760, CFE223, and CFEBLK Thanks for your all’s time. 
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Posted: 9/20/2017 8:27:49 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By sheltot:
Here's data from Hodgdon's website for 150 grain, so it should get you started. I shoot the 147 gr. with Lil'Gun. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/87660/150gr-312642.png |
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Posted: 9/20/2017 8:37:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Realtree86:
Yeah the problem is I don’t have lil gun only the ones I listed. |
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Posted: 9/20/2017 9:33:48 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MSUbulldog21:
He posted load data for CFEBLK, which was on your list. |
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Posted: 9/20/2017 10:36:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Data for 150 gr bullets of similar shape can also be used for 147 gr bullets.
Just work up as normal. |
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Posted: 9/21/2017 8:08:28 PM EDT
[#21]
I used data for M80 147 grain FMJs and worked up my load using Hornady's (much better) 150 grain FMJs. Later, I used my same load with Hornady's 150 grain spitzer soft points with essentially the same accuracy and velocity. I would not use 150 grain bullets intended for .30-30 without a completely new work up because their profile is quite a bit different.
You need to pay close attention to the bullet profile when you choose source data, particularly in the lighter bullets. For example, you can't quite use the same data for "all" 110 grain .308 bullets, since there are a bunch of round nose/soft point/etc. bullets that are intended for .30 Carbine, and even the longest of these (the RN FMJs) are a challenge to get to feed. |
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Posted: 9/23/2017 7:28:21 PM EDT
[#22]
Anyone used the Barnes 120 Tac TX bullets? Are the same construction as the 110s as in they expand well down to 1300 fps? I'm trying to work a hunting load up and can't find 110s anywhere. The 120s appear to be a good substitute IF they expand the same.
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Posted: 9/26/2017 12:33:16 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By HuntinBuddy80:
Anyone used the Barnes 120 Tac TX bullets? Are the same construction as the 110s as in they expand well down to 1300 fps? I'm trying to work a hunting load up and can't find 110s anywhere. The 120s appear to be a good substitute IF they expand the same. |
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Posted: 9/27/2017 3:19:27 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By The_Hammer:
Any idea why the bullets would make a "wizzing" shound when fired? Looking at the picture you posted, the powder coating appears to have a fair amount of texture... akin to that of a golf ball or a baseball, both of which "wizz" at speed. This turbulent airflow could also explain your accuracy issues... |
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Posted: 10/3/2017 12:21:53 AM EDT
[Last Edit: grimhollow]
[#25]
Anyone else ever had a problem with 220 grain Sierra Matchkings not stabilizing? I'm getting a lot of key holing out of my 10.5" 1:8 twist barrel, with the rounds loaded at about 1060 fps. I guess they just don't like my barrel. Everything else I've shot is fine, about 2 out of 10 key hole when I use 220 grain SMK's, though. They are going into about a 5" group at 100 yards, also. I'm not that concerned about the accuracy, though.
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Posted: 10/6/2017 8:56:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Bearcat24]
[#26]
Question for you pros on 300BO. Have had mine for a few months so still learning. Was searching the web for a inexpensive upper for my brother in law. Came across a web site selling short barrel uppers. Davidson Defense. They listed a 10 inch barrel upper with 1:7 twist and a note stating 1:8 have stabilizing issues with short barrels shooting subsonic loads. True? My brother in law wants a 10 inch but most are 1:8. Appreciate any info. Thanks
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Posted: 10/6/2017 3:49:53 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bearcat24:
Question for you pros on 300BO. Have had mine for a few months so still learning. Was searching the web for a inexpensive upper for my brother in law. Came across a web site selling short barrel uppers. Davidson Defense. They listed a 10 inch barrel upper with 1:7 twist and a note stating 1:8 have stabilizing issues with short barrels shooting subsonic loads. True? My brother in law wants a 10 inch but most are 1:8. Appreciate any info. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/6/2017 6:42:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dragon]
[#28]
I have a 10.5" barrel and ran 220 matchkings, and 208 ELD with no issues. Unfortunately all my data is boxed up waiting to be moved in a few weeks, so I can't give more info on them.
Edit: I am running 1:8 twist and I was running H110 powder |
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Posted: 10/6/2017 8:12:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: grimhollow]
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dragon:
I have a 10.5" barrel and ran 220 matchkings, and 208 ELD with no issues. Unfortunately all my data is boxed up waiting to be moved in a few weeks, so I can't give more info on them. Edit: I am running 1:8 twist and I was running H110 powder |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 6:20:06 PM EDT
[#30]
I finally got back around to the 300 BO today. I still haven't gone and bought any 125 class bullets that have canalure and had 20 rounds of 150gr still loaded so decided to go ahead and load another 20.
This is the first time I'm using the Lee FCD for this caliber. The brass was all freshly processed so I didn't have any problems seating and crimping the previous rounds in one step but I know the FCD's well and like the end results although they add a extra step on my single stage press. After I finished I compared the 2 different crimps (roll & FCD) and have to admit the FCD does a really nice job even if "looks alone" don't mean anything. BTW: The load is: 150gr Hornady #3031, 15gr Lil-gun, CCI-400 primer. Motor |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 10:35:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Motor1:
I finally got back around to the 300 BO today. I still haven't gone and bought any 125 class bullets that have canalure and had 20 rounds of 150gr still loaded so decided to go ahead and load another 20. This is the first time I'm using the Lee FCD for this caliber. The brass was all freshly processed so I didn't have any problems seating and crimping the previous rounds in one step but I know the FCD's well and like the end results although they add a extra step on my single stage press. After I finished I compared the 2 different crimps (roll & FCD) and have to admit the FCD does a really nice job even if "looks alone" don't mean anything. BTW: The load is: 150gr Hornady #3031, 15gr Lil-gun, CCI-400 primer. Motor Gen info, what I call a light crimp with a Lee FCD is the collets close half way when cartridge is being crimped. Look straight down at FCD with no cartridge in die. Notice the 4 gaps between the collets. Adjust die so they close half way when crimping. |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 10:52:53 PM EDT
[#32]
I estimate that I'm at around 3/4 closed on the FCD gaps.
I'm running a 2.100" OAL with 1.360" case length so my crimp is focused on the bottom side of the canalure which is where I feel it's needed for my particular situation. That situation: I was finding that my OAL was growing from inertia of bolt slamming closed. I tested several bullets without crimp and all moved forward. They didn't move much maybe only .005" but they moved. A functional crimp in a canalure prevents this movement. Motor |
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Posted: 11/5/2017 10:52:59 PM EDT
[#33]
One thing I learned was to try twist the bullet to insure I have enough crimp on it. If it moves, a little more crimp.
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Posted: 11/6/2017 12:16:12 AM EDT
[#34]
So I have a short tool head and trim die. My upper is on the way and I need to form some brass. I know Dillon says not to use the rt1200 for a full cut down but just how fast will it kill one. My thought is I'm only making 1000 or so so it should be ok. If long term it kills the trimmer I'll up grade. I just don't won't to have it die right away. Any one know how long it may hold up.
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Posted: 11/6/2017 2:51:08 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bearcat24:
One thing I learned was to try twist the bullet to insure I have enough crimp on it. If it moves, a little more crimp. Motor |
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Posted: 11/6/2017 3:57:27 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By rustybob:
So I have a short tool head and trim die. My upper is on the way and I need to form some brass. I know Dillon says not to use the rt1200 for a full cut down but just how fast will it kill one. My thought is I'm only making 1000 or so so it should be ok. If long term it kills the trimmer I'll up grade. I just don't won't to have it die right away. Any one know how long it may hold up. |
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Posted: 11/6/2017 9:22:57 AM EDT
[#37]
slow is not a problem I have all winter.
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Posted: 11/10/2017 2:26:04 PM EDT
[#38]
I am curious about an odd bullet that is for .30 m1 carbine the 'Lehigh Defense Xtreme Cavitator Bullets'
It is 85gr. Solid copper and looks like a square drive bit for your 30 cal. Has anyone loaded these in the BO ? More curious than anything of the results POS. Or NEG. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 11/11/2017 11:27:07 AM EDT
[#39]
MagPul 300 Blackout magazines---Has anyone with them sat down and figured out how much longer you can seat some of your favorite bullets?
Maybe a more appropriate question is what measurement can we use for the new diameter (instead of .250) to use at the rib(s). Since the method for determining overall length is well described, I won't bother with it here. It seems the ribs in the 300blk are about .100 wider than the .gov M4 mags I used as a reference. It doesn't seem like that will give us a large increase, but it will be something. Currently, I use lancer magazines for my "ready" 300blk rounds, not because I feel they are better, but because they look and feel different. FWIW The Magpul mags worked as expected with the limited use I have with them--100rds give or take. My current method is to use a bullet comparator for 25 caliber and make a light "ring" around the bullet and seat as described in this thread. I thought I might try the 7mm hole (right or wrong) because it's the next size I have. Thinking out loud as I write this, once a target diameter is determined, a simple bushing for one of the various neck sizing dies might work to mark the bullet. Any other thoughts? |
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Posted: 11/13/2017 1:41:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Army03CRNA:
MagPul 300 Blackout magazines---Has anyone with them sat down and figured out how much longer you can seat some of your favorite bullets? Maybe a more appropriate question is what measurement can we use for the new diameter (instead of .250) to use at the rib(s). Since the method for determining overall length is well described, I won't bother with it here. It seems the ribs in the 300blk are about .100 wider than the .gov M4 mags I used as a reference. It doesn't seem like that will give us a large increase, but it will be something. Currently, I use lancer magazines for my "ready" 300blk rounds, not because I feel they are better, but because they look and feel different. FWIW The Magpul mags worked as expected with the limited use I have with them--100rds give or take. My current method is to use a bullet comparator for 25 caliber and make a light "ring" around the bullet and seat as described in this thread. I thought I might try the 7mm hole (right or wrong) because it's the next size I have. Thinking out loud as I write this, once a target diameter is determined, a simple bushing for one of the various neck sizing dies might work to mark the bullet. Any other thoughts? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Army03CRNA:
MagPul 300 Blackout magazines---Has anyone with them sat down and figured out how much longer you can seat some of your favorite bullets? Maybe a more appropriate question is what measurement can we use for the new diameter (instead of .250) to use at the rib(s). Since the method for determining overall length is well described, I won't bother with it here. It seems the ribs in the 300blk are about .100 wider than the .gov M4 mags I used as a reference. It doesn't seem like that will give us a large increase, but it will be something. Currently, I use lancer magazines for my "ready" 300blk rounds, not because I feel they are better, but because they look and feel different. FWIW The Magpul mags worked as expected with the limited use I have with them--100rds give or take. My current method is to use a bullet comparator for 25 caliber and make a light "ring" around the bullet and seat as described in this thread. I thought I might try the 7mm hole (right or wrong) because it's the next size I have. Thinking out loud as I write this, once a target diameter is determined, a simple bushing for one of the various neck sizing dies might work to mark the bullet. Any other thoughts? Originally Posted By PARover:
I am presently using some 6.8 mags with 5.56 followers in them. Color coded followers help keep them straight, and I can always return them back to normal. Measuring inside rib to rib:
D&H (PSA) .556 mag: .544 ASC 6.8 mag : .645 Neck on a 6.8 is approx .300 vs .250 on the .556 |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2017 7:34:36 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By PARover:
From back on Pg 51:  I even posted on that page. Thank you!
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 5:49:59 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By ezekeial:
Am just starting 300 blk, and got a couple questions for the experienced. If ya got the time, it would be sincerely appreciated. Have been through the 300 blk forum, but likely missed some things. Am loading for 8.5 in 1::7 twist ar. 1-Has anyone measured the COL of a Noveske 220 grain glow tip? 2-Has anyone checked how the COL of handloaded Nosler 220 rnbt against jump to lands in regards to stability /accuracy? 3-Has anyone had any stability issues with the Noveske glow tips? 4-Has anyone tried Hornadys 140 gn monoflex bullets in 300 blk? Apparenty one version (#30310) is designed to expand around 1550 fps. |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 5:57:14 PM EDT
[#43]
Is there a cleaner, or maybe I should say, full burning powder out there for subs out of a 10.5" barrel? Non-suppressed!
I am having issues with unburned/not fully burned power collecting in the chamber. Three or four rounds and I'll get a failure to close the bolt. AA1680, RL7, IMR 4198 are three I have and tried. All have caused issues even though the smaller granules of the 1680 took a few more shots to cause problems. 175 grain SMK seated from 2-2.25". |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 7:06:38 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
Is there a cleaner, or maybe I should say, full burning powder out there for subs out of a 10.5" barrel? Non-suppressed! I am having issues with unburned/not fully burned power collecting in the chamber. Three or four rounds and I'll get a failure to close the bolt. AA1680, RL7, IMR 4198 are three I have and tried. All have caused issues even though the smaller granules of the 1680 took a few more shots to cause problems. 175 grain SMK seated from 2-2.25". |
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Posted: 12/1/2017 8:24:23 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
Is there a cleaner, or maybe I should say, full burning powder out there for subs out of a 10.5" barrel? Non-suppressed! I am having issues with unburned/not fully burned power collecting in the chamber. Three or four rounds and I'll get a failure to close the bolt. AA1680, RL7, IMR 4198 are three I have and tried. All have caused issues even though the smaller granules of the 1680 took a few more shots to cause problems. 175 grain SMK seated from 2-2.25". |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 9:15:37 PM EDT
[#46]
I wouldn't think that the primer would make a difference, but I am using standard CCI 400's.
This is after 9 rounds of 1680 and 9 rounds of RL7 with the bore snake going down the barrel after each 3 rounds. As well as just trying to blow the unburned powder out with my mouth. 
It was a lot worse that what it looks like here. |
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Posted: 12/1/2017 9:23:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: grimhollow]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
I wouldn't think that the primer would make a difference, but I am using standard CCI 400's. This is after 9 rounds of 1680 and 9 rounds of RL7 with the bore snake going down the barrel after each 3 rounds. As well as just trying to blow the unburned powder out with my mouth. <a href="http://ibb.co/bHhVeb"></a>http://preview.ibb.co/cnZMkG/crap.png It was a lot worse that what it looks like here. |
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Posted: 12/1/2017 9:29:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: sheltot]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
Is there a cleaner, or maybe I should say, full burning powder out there for subs out of a 10.5" barrel? Non-suppressed! I am having issues with unburned/not fully burned power collecting in the chamber. Three or four rounds and I'll get a failure to close the bolt. AA1680, RL7, IMR 4198 are three I have and tried. All have caused issues even though the smaller granules of the 1680 took a few more shots to cause problems. 175 grain SMK seated from 2-2.25".
ETA: I use 1680 for subs and haven’t had a problem. I do run suppressed and don’t clean very often either; just keep the bolt lubed. |
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Posted: 12/1/2017 11:10:49 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By number40Fan:
Is there a cleaner, or maybe I should say, full burning powder out there for subs out of a 10.5" barrel? Non-suppressed! I am having issues with unburned/not fully burned power collecting in the chamber. Three or four rounds and I'll get a failure to close the bolt. AA1680, RL7, IMR 4198 are three I have and tried. All have caused issues even though the smaller granules of the 1680 took a few more shots to cause problems. 175 grain SMK seated from 2-2.25". Do you crimp? |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/2/2017 12:34:22 AM EDT
[#50]
I have tried crimping when running them longer than 2.2", but below that, I figured there was enough meat in the case neck to not worry. I honestly thought it was going to improve shoving them in more, but sadly, it hasn't.
Tomorrows plan is to try some RL15. Bit slower on the scale, but so is VV N-320 from the rest of the stuff I have tried and I have a ton of RL15. Or maybe because I am 4500' in elevation I should try faster powder??? Also, I have another buffer that I am going to attempt to add some weight to and see if keeping it chambered for slightly longer will help. |
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