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Posted: 7/20/2012 5:19:29 AM EDT
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I want to start reloading for my M1 Garand. Being that it uses a clip instead of a magazine, do you have to full length resize ? of just neck size ? I would think just neck size. What sayeth the experts ?
Thanx............. |
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I would never recommend necksizing for any autoloader. NEVER. You're inviting issues with the bolt not fully closed.
I recommend you use full length standard dies not the small base sizers sometime recommended for autoloaders. The small base is normally overkill. I also recommend that you adjust your dies to get 0.003-4" free headspace between your brass and your chamber. The die instructions usually describe screwing the full length sizer die down until your die and press cam over the shell holder. This often leaves you with excessive free headspace which can lead to less accuracy, and poor case life and possible leading to case head seperations. There are tools to help you measure your work for you to get the right fit. |
| The use of an enbloc clip versus a detachable magazine is really immaterial. Depending on the chamber dimensions of your particular rifle, you might be able to size less than SAAMI dimension, but essentially, you need to full length size for reliable function in an autoloader. |
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Using your Google-Fu, you should be able to find good recipes for the Garand and combine them with advise like learning about headspace, case, and chamber measurements with respect to Garand reloading.
In general, you try to trade between case life, performance, and reliability. The less you work the case the longer it lasts, but that goes against keeping things from allowing the bolt to close if you push it too far. If you find your dimensions, you tend to bump the case only about 0.002 in order to ensure good function in terms of bolt closure. Many good match shooters can debate this, but some of the best bump their shoulders even when using bolt guns. In theory, the bolt guns would tolerate neck size only, but I have seen too many high master scores which prove you can still bump the shoulders on the cases and get excellent performance. |
| I've posted this comment on other threads and web blogs, but again, here's my two cents worth. Anyone new to the fine art of loading for gas operated semi-auto rifles should invest a few bucks and buy Sierra's reloading manual #5. It has an entire chapter on loading for gas guns. The comments above about sizing issues are spot on, and the Sierra chapter will put all this in perspective. Loading for gas guns is not only a bit more challenging than loading for a bolt action, but can be decidedly more dangerous if the handloader doesn't understand all the basic issues. But do NOT be dissuaded –– it's worth the effort. |
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1. Full length sizing with a standard die.
2. Ensure your primers are seated flush or below the case head. 3. Use the heel of your right hand to retard the bolt closing so it does not slam. There are videos on you tube demonstrating this. These three steps will help avoid a slam fire. A few additional points: 4. Keep your chamber clean. Purchase a chamber brush and use it every time you clean your rifle. The GI ratchet style brush works well. Clean the chamber, then use a rod guide and quality rod (not a GI jointed rod) to clean the barrel. 5. Don't pull the gas cylinder off the rifle every time you clean the rifle (UNLESS YOU SHOOT CORROSIVE AMMO THEN CLEAN IMMEDIATELY AND THOROUGHLY). You can clean the gas cylinder from the back side with a pistol rod and a patch wrapped around a pistol or shotgun brush. 6. You will probably need to remove copper about every 500 rounds. Do not leave the copper solvent in the bore too long or you will etch the barrel. Sorry if you asked how to sail and I told you how to build a boat. Enjoy your Garand, dcat |
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