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Posted: 11/3/2011 11:18:03 AM EDT
| Setting up a toolhead to trim brass which to use 650 or 1050 ? |
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You're ahead of me for the moment, but it's just a matter of time before catching up to you. I'd always been told and intended to set up 650 for sizing. Man, is that a fast way of prep work. Sizer die at station one, RT1200 at station three and Lyman M die at station 5. Damn is that fast !
However, I could see the temptation to set up on 1050 since swage station is there. I'm still kicking myself in the ass for going 650. Shudda bought the 1050........ Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Quoted:
You're ahead of me for the moment, but it's just a matter of time before catching up to you. I'd always been told and intended to set up 650 for sizing. Man, is that a fast way of prep work. Sizer die at station one, RT1200 at station three and Lyman M die at station 5. Damn is that fast ! However, I could see the temptation to set up on 1050 since swage station is there. I'm still kicking myself in the ass for going 650. Shudda bought the 1050........ Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Will still load on the Star copy  so the swage is still used anyway , have extra toolheads for the 650 but would need to buy one for the 1050 to use it and would rather add a case feeder to the 650 if there is no reason to do it on the big press
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Nothing is quite as perfect as you expect in my experience. Swaging is a good example of that. Some brass swages just fine, other brass doesn't. I think the metal is variable in hardness, brittleness to the point that one can't be absolutely sure of the result. That doesn't even include variability of case head dimensions. I have tried all the systems of removing pocket crimps except for the Dillon 1050. Unless it uses another more sure way than their hand tool, you will find brass that will not swage the way you expect. That's not a big deal if you are using a single station press...or hand prime off your progressive, but if you expect to prime on a progressive, and not have interruptions, then you can't afford to experience brass samples that don't swage well. By "don't swage well" I mean: 1. Brittle brass where the crimp shears off the pocket wall and deposits a tiny ring of brass at the bottom of the pocket. That in turn can cause a pocket uniformer to spin in the bottom instead of cutting, and be left there to make your primer not seat deep enough. Even one or two out of a hundred can't give you heart burn or even a totally unexpected slam fire out of a gas gun if not caught. 2. The brass is springy and "swages" but springs back enough to make seating the new primer hard. That isn't a good thing when you're trying to keep a good progressive rhythm, and at worst you may crush a primer or have to stop and swage it again. I used to not like the idea of reamers...I've changed my mind. The result is a sure thing every time with a good one...just the ticket for progressive nirvana.  Would really like to hear how the Dillon 1050 does it....and whether they can guarantee it works the same for any and all brass. |
| Swaging with the Dillon 1050, the Dillon swager tool , or the RCBS swager die have one thing in common- the swage is dependent on the type of brass. Some brass has a thicker case head and will swage differently than thinner heads. The tool must be readjusted accordingly or you will get inconsistent results. |
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it's just a adjustable rod , brass is held down with a rod and one comes up into pocket That's what I figured. Not too different from their hand swager. (a good product to be sure, but not perfect)Yes I like the Hornady reamer also. The old RCBS turned off most of us with their excessive chamfer. RCBS has a new design that replaced the old one. I bought it to compare to Hornady's and the old RCBS. Really nice....I actually prefer the new RCBS now. It won't touch the sides of the pocket below the crimp and has a really positive stop. As for a "stoppage here or there," for me it's a big deal. My purpose for buying a progressive in the first place was to produce lots of quality ammo with out a hitch. Had an experience several months ago with this. Loaded 200 rounds of old LC .308 that I had swaged. I admit I got lazy...did not checking primer seating depth on each and every round....most yes...but not all of them. To be honest I've never had that problem before. (I hate Murphy's Law...true too often) Anyway, I shot a hundred and just started on the second hundred and I had a slamfire out of my DPMS .308. I retrieved the offending round for to check it when I got home....and immediately checked the rest of the second hundred up to then unshot....I found ONE high primer-round in the remainder...of course I set it aside. When I got home I pulled the bullet from the unshot, high-primer round, and carefully punched the primer out. Sure enough I found a circular sliver of brass in the bottom of the pocket. So I pulled the spent primer out of the round that caused the slam. It too had the same sliver. Those slivers had been sheared off rather than swaged back as they should have been. So then I started checking each swaged round for such shearings. That got old so I started trying out reamers. Settled on Hornadys until RCBS's new one came out. Ronnie B......true statement. Still, even adjusting for that, all cases don't swage the way you think they should. |
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For now on 650 tool head.
Size Trim M die Then by hand swage using 600 Uniform pockets on prep center.. I just don't see skipping any step in my process. Not to my satisfaction anyway. It would be awesome to swage on press. One less finger print on brass. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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