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Posted: 5/12/2011 8:16:32 AM EDT
| Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks |
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One of our users posted an excellent pictorial a year or so ago. Might be up in the stickies.
One tip that I remember is that rather than buy special drill bits to get the clean flat bottomed holes, you can drill straight through the main board and glue some thin plywood on the bottom. So simple, but it had never occurred to me... |
| I saw the same post but can't find it now, That is the one I was looking for. I plan on drilling one board and glueing the bottem on I just remember him saying the drill bit sizes for differant calibers and the board sizes being differant. I could probably figure it out but was hoping someone had the link to save me buying the wrong stuff. |
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Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris |
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Make your own Loading blocks, my old thread.
It is up under Reloaling Tools and Equipment. 
Home made and the ones Midway used to sell before thay went plastic. 
I also use them for sorting brass. |
| Stalwart makes great wooden loading blocks Stalwart Loading Blocks |
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Quoted: Quoted: Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris Spend 5 minutes making a template and it's not a problem. |
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Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris It's not about the time, nor how easy it is. It's about making something that you love doing. Many of us who reload, do it as a hobby as much as for cost savings. There is nothing like going to the range and showing off your craftsmanship. Whether it be the tight group from the rounds you loaded, or your loading blocks. If you considered your time vs. buying factory ammo, why not just buy it? Its what I like to do. Just like my other hobby, Blacksmithing. I can buy all kinds of stuff easier, faster than I can make it. But I like doing it. Half the fun of any hobby is making the tools you need to use. Almost all of my blacksmith tools are handmade, except my hammers. Some day when I get better, I will make those too. So too in reloading, if I can make a tool, I will rather than buy one. Just my $.02 |
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Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris Define " things that matter more" . To me reloading is a hobby. I enjoy all parts of my hobby. I can buy brass all day long but I get more enjoyment searching around for places to pick up range brass. I can buy loaded ammo but I like rolling it myself. I can pay to have all the deer and elk I shoot processed but I enjoy breaking out the grinder. It would probably be easier for me to buy loading blocks cause I'm definately not a wood worker but It looked like a fun challenge and I'll get something I can use for years out of it. |
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Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris Define " things that matter more" . To me reloading is a hobby. I enjoy all parts of my hobby. I can buy brass all day long but I get more enjoyment searching around for places to pick up range brass. I can buy loaded ammo but I like rolling it myself. I can pay to have all the deer and elk I shoot processed but I enjoy breaking out the grinder. It would probably be easier for me to buy loading blocks cause I'm definately not a wood worker but It looked like a fun challenge and I'll get something I can use for years out of it. Sir, FWIW when I was much younger and didn't have as much disposable income as I do now and I made a lot of things that I could have bought. I made the loading blocks I still use to this day from some scrap wood with a drill press. Back then I had free reign in a complete machine shop and could make just about anything I wanted. I do have a plastic loading tray that I use occasionally but the tray is by far inferior to the wood blocks I made. Also I could have bought a loading bench at some time but the one I made is far superior to anything I could have purchased and the cost of materials was almost nothing because mostly I used scrap 2X4 and 2x6. There must be some satisfaction in the knowledge that you made it yourself. JMHO, 7zero1. |
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Does anyone have a link to DIY wood loading blocks? It looks pretty simple but I want to make sure I pick up the right bits before I leave town. I want to make .45 and 9mm. I think they will work for .40 and .233 correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks I'm all for DIY, but geeze, you can pick up loading blocks for $5-$7. Drilling 50 holes, perfectly, so your OCD doesn't flare up, is going to be more time consuming than it will be to just buy them and move onto things that matter more. Chris Define " things that matter more" . To me reloading is a hobby. I enjoy all parts of my hobby. I can buy brass all day long but I get more enjoyment searching around for places to pick up range brass. I can buy loaded ammo but I like rolling it myself. I can pay to have all the deer and elk I shoot processed but I enjoy breaking out the grinder. It would probably be easier for me to buy loading blocks cause I'm definately not a wood worker but It looked like a fun challenge and I'll get something I can use for years out of it. Sir, FWIW when I was much younger and didn't have as much disposable income as I do now and I made a lot of things that I could have bought. I made the loading blocks I still use to this day from some scrap wood with a drill press. Back then I had free reign in a complete machine shop and could make just about anything I wanted. I do have a plastic loading tray that I use occasionally but the tray is by far inferior to the wood blocks I made. Also I could have bought a loading bench at some time but the one I made is far superior to anything I could have purchased and the cost of materials was almost nothing because mostly I used scrap 2X4 and 2x6. There must be some satisfaction in the knowledge that you made it yourself. JMHO, 7zero1. Alright now you have done it. Pics of bench. 
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Yes, make a template, as you will probalby make more than one. Making the template is covered in my thread. If you want to see reloading benches, go back a few pages to the "Official Reloading Bench Thread". Right now that Thread is on page 2. 24 pages for you. My bench is on page 6. |
| The last time I made wood loading trays was about 15 years ago and made it to fit 45 Colt using a flat 9/16" wood bit. I used two pieces of 3/8" particle board cut identically. The first piece was the one that I drilled the holes completely through then I glued the other piece to the bottom to close the holes. |
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Forstner bits are the ones you're looking for. The problem with Forstner bits is they do not tend to come in a decent variety of sizes. Most folks use brad point bits. Don't forget the metric Forstner bits. For 9mm and 223 I use a 10mm bit. They are about $5 from Woodworkers Supply. |
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Looking forward to seeing your blocks, brywilli. I considered making my own, but went with these, instead. I really like them and it would have taken me a week and probably three tries to make them as nice. |
Ok couldn't wait to post pictures. Here is same board someone else pictured. The board and drill bit cost $24 and some change from Home Depot. I cut into seven 10 inch by 5.5 inch blocks
Here is my template. It took about 10 minutes to draw and cut out. Paper worked ok, I used an old ice pick as a punch. It pushed right into the wood giving me a good mark to drill out. 
I forgot a picture of the bit it was a forester 1/2" bit I'll update with brand name later. Here is block being drilled out 
I started at 6pm and 2 hrs later I have 7 new loading blocks. 2 hrs includes digging my father in laws drill and table saw out and sanding my blocks by hand. 
If you notice in the last pic the 2 green plastic blocks, these were all I had before this DIY project. Tomorrow I'll start filling these up. 
But before I do I'm going to go buy another board and make some 9mm and .223 block while I have the stuff out. I drilled some 3/8 inch holes in a test piece of wood and tried some 223 cases for fit and they seemed a little tight I'm going to look for maybe the 10mm to try out. |
Here is one I made using some scrap wood I had and some of the plastic trays from a box of 9mm. I built the box so that the trays would sit flush when inserted and glued them in. Dremeled a groove on either side for something to grip when it's fully loaded. Maybe someday I'll get around to painting it or something.
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| I stopped using loading blocks over ten years ago. I installed hooks under my benches and hang painter pails or new 1 gallon paint cans. I don't need to be anywhere close to coordinated using this method compared to placing individual rounds in their designated hole. |
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I stopped using loading blocks over ten years ago. I installed hooks under my benches and hang painter pails or new 1 gallon paint cans. I don't need to be anywhere close to coordinated using this method compared to placing individual rounds in their designated hole. That's way beyond uncoordinated and hard over into spastic. I'm trying to figure how you get the little cases to stand up and hold still while you funneled gunpowder in! |
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Ok couldn't wait to post pictures. Here is same board someone else pictured. The board and drill bit cost $24 and some change from Home Depot. I cut into seven 10 inch by 5.5 inch blocks http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i416/brywilli/IMG_0029.jpg Here is my template. It took about 10 minutes to draw and cut out. Paper worked ok, I used an old ice pick as a punch. It pushed right into the wood giving me a good mark to drill out. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i416/brywilli/IMG_0030.jpg I forgot a picture of the bit it was a forester 1/2" bit I'll update with brand name later. Here is block being drilled out http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i416/brywilli/IMG_0031.jpg I started at 6pm and 2 hrs later I have 7 new loading blocks. 2 hrs includes digging my father in laws drill and table saw out and sanding my blocks by hand. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i416/brywilli/IMG_0032.jpg If you notice in the last pic the 2 green plastic blocks, these were all I had before this DIY project. Tomorrow I'll start filling these up. http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i416/brywilli/IMG_0033.jpg But before I do I'm going to go buy another board and make some 9mm and .223 block while I have the stuff out. I drilled some 3/8 inch holes in a test piece of wood and tried some 223 cases for fit and they seemed a little tight I'm going to look for maybe the 10mm to try out. Your blocks look great. Just one thing I would suggest, since you have a tablesaw. 
Cut some 1/8 inch deep groves in the sides of your blocks. They will be much easier to pick up if you do. 
Good choice of wood. Popular is not very expensive, and machines well without tearing out. Thanks for the update. |
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Here is one I made using some scrap wood I had and some of the plastic trays from a box of 9mm. I built the box so that the trays would sit flush when inserted and glued them in. Dremeled a groove on either side for something to grip when it's fully loaded. Maybe someday I'll get around to painting it or something. Nice work. Is that one block of wood routed out? I like the idea of gluing plastic trays inside of the box. |
| Negative. It's five pieces of scrap about a 1/4" thick. (4 sides and bottom) The box is glued and then I used some really small nails( brads I think they are called?) The ammo trays fit in perfectly with no movement but I glued them in so they wouldn't fall out if turned over. Then I decided to add a groove on either side for gripping purposes. I have a bunch more of the trays so I'll probably make another one sometime |
Here are a few more pics of the blocks I made sat. I made 2 for .223 using a 3/8" bit. They fit kind of snug but I think after time they will loosen a hair. I also made 7 for 9mm using a 7/16" bit. These are a little loose but still work ok.
These are my .45 blocks in action. 
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Quoted: Quoted: Hey brywilll, are those bullets in a dog food dispenser? Yes. It was about $5 at Wal-mart. It has worked great I like the low profile for grabbing a bullet at a time and it dispences well. I also use it when I'm sizing brass. Brilliant! I am going to have to borrow that idea. |
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Hey brywilll, are those bullets in a dog food dispenser? Yes. It was about $5 at Wal-mart. It has worked great I like the low profile for grabbing a bullet at a time and it dispences well. I also use it when I'm sizing brass. Brilliant! I am going to have to borrow that idea. I would like to take credit for it but I saw it on someone elses post under the offical reloading bench thread. I always go and check out everyones benches to pick up ideas. This is where I got the idea for DIY woodblocks and the dogfood dispensers. Lots of good stuff on there. |
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I stopped using loading blocks over ten years ago. I installed hooks under my benches and hang painter pails or new 1 gallon paint cans. I don't need to be anywhere close to coordinated using this method compared to placing individual rounds in their designated hole. That's way beyond uncoordinated and hard over into spastic. I'm trying to figure how you get the little cases to stand up and hold still while you funneled gunpowder in! I work in batches. Cleaned brass is placed in a short cardboard box to the left of my press. I resize the brass and toss it in a pail to my right. When I finish resizing everything I dump the pail back in the cardboard box then run my trimmer. Again everything ends up in a painter's pail or paint can hanging on a hook to my right. It all gets tumbled after trimming. From that point on I wear exam gloves. I do the same process again when priming. I work from the left and everything ends up in abucket on my right. The ready to load brass is now placed in a bucket to my left. I'm sitting between my Harrell's measure on my left and just to my right is my Rock Chucker with a benchrest seating die installed. I drop charge the powder through a 6" drop tube, inspect the case for powder level then seat the bullet immediately. I use rifle powders that fill the case to at least the datum line on the shoulder. The loaded round ends up in a painters bucket/paint can hung to my right. I load straight walled handgun ammo on my Dillon 550B. No loading blocks there either. My system eliminates the tedious balancing act of placing each case in the loading block without tipping anything over. |
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Loading blocks are not used for all the steps in reloading.
I only use them when placing primed case in the blocks prior to powder charging. 
Trays for the in between steps. 
French fry "boat" and homemade bullet tray. Cases in block are charged with powder. 
And for group photo's. 
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