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Posted: 1/16/2011 7:35:33 PM EDT
| I was using a Lyman FH uniformer but ran into a problem on a few rounds. The cutter would cut into a lot of brass but not through it and the uniformer would "lock up" (wouldn't spin anymore, not actually get stuck in place) in the flash hole. I even chucked in it my drill but couldn't hold the shell tight enough to cut through the brass. Anyone have any idea how to get the last bit of brass removed? Or should I just set aside the cases for plinking ammo? |
| He's hanging on a burr DryFlash and case is slipping in his fingers. It happens. Lee makes a contraption to hold onto case rim for zip trim. It can also be chucked into a drill. Pliers with just enough pressure to grip case rim works too. I run into one maybe 1 in 200 cases when deburring 5.56 brass. |
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Quoted:
I was using a Lyman FH uniformer but ran into a problem on a few rounds. The cutter would cut into a lot of brass but not through it and the uniformer would "lock up" (wouldn't spin anymore, not actually get stuck in place) in the flash hole. I even chucked in it my drill but couldn't hold the shell tight enough to cut through the brass. Anyone have any idea how to get the last bit of brass removed? Or should I just set aside the cases for plinking ammo? I've had some really tough burrs over the years, where I couldn't grip the case with one hand while my RCBS TrimMate was spinning it. I had to use two hands and even then, it was a chore to get it off. Shit happens. Either shoot it as is, use it as a dummy round, make a trim length gage out of it, or chuck it into the recycle bin. Chris |
I'll just use them for plinking ammo.
| 1911smth is right, he is just hanging on a burr, I have had the same thing happen to me doing LC09 brass, it is rare, maybe one is about 200-300 cases. The way I deal with this is to back off, pull the FH uniformer out and get the drill going pretty fast and ease it back in. That way, the uniformer can cut the tops off the burr before it settles into the FH. The good part is these are probably the brass that would give you the most problem getting uniform firing since the large burr would have affected the primers line of fire. |
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Still confused, do you mean a Flashole deburer?
Or a primer pocket Uniformer? In my first post I was thinking a flashole deburer, and OP was drilling the flashole to a larger size. Now thinking you mean a primer pocket uniformer. 
If so, chuck uniformer in a drill, use light pressure to start, and cut until the stop puts an end to the cutting. Crimp reamer in near drill, uniformer in far drill. |
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What you have is a very course burr. Go lightly by just skimming the top of it off first. Once you get the highest part deburred the rest will come off easier.
As already mentioned, you may want to segregate this case from the herd because it lies so far out of the norm. |
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Quoted:
Still confused, do you mean a Flashole deburer? Or a primer pocket Uniformer? In my first post I was thinking a flashole deburer, and OP was drilling the flashole to a larger size. Now thinking you mean a primer pocket uniformer. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/P5310450.jpg If so, chuck uniformer in a drill, use light pressure to start, and cut until the stop puts an end to the cutting. Crimp reamer in near drill, uniformer in far drill. I'm deburring, nothing to do with the primer pocket, the tool is just called the "Lyman Flash Hole Uniformer." Here's the tool. It's just catching on a large burr like others have said. I'll have to try getting the deburrer going fast then cutting the burr off slowly. |
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